Tastes
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Nose: Highly pungent, bright grassy herbaceous notes, spirity, new bicycle tyres, a background aroma reminiscent of mezcal. Damp rainforest ground-litter, over-ripe, almost rotting citrus fruit, gherkin juice, fresh cane juice, brine. As it rests in the glass it develops a sweeter and more waxy profile, particularly with the addition of a drop a water (although that can also bring out a papery note). A formidable nose. Palate: The arrival is initially sweet and more laid-back than the nose might make you think. It leads with herbal-sugars that again are suggestive of mezcal and it has that honeyed-asparagus note mezcal sometimes carries. However just as you think you have sussed it out this is all washed away by a wave of astringent, gripping alcohol and bittersweet herbs that comes crashing onto the palate. Terragon, sage, rosemary, rocket, pickles, ginger, white pepper, unripe banana, rotting mango, green papaya and green apple skins. After a while this onslaught subsides and another wave follows, bringing in the unmistakable white sugar and green grass flavours of cane-juice. Water significantly tames the palate by modulating the alcohol presence and increasing the foundation sugar sweetness. Finish: Long. Everything from the palate entwines and slowly diminishes until just light briny grassiness remains with an afterthought of star anise. This sits somewhere mid-way between rhum agricole blanc and white-dog, by way of mezcal. The progression on this spirit is astonishing and makes a mockery of all those other drinks where you have merely convinced yourself you tasted development. My liquor order arrived today just in time for the weekend (yay!) and it contains several bottles of interesting stuff based on sugar, this being one of the most compelling. It's essentially agricole blanc from Haiti, crafted from hand-harvested un-hybridised sugar cane grown on the 30 hectare Sajous plantation, crushed in a donkey-powered open-air pit, wild fermented and distilled on site in a tiny direct-fired pot still. It is an organic product with no additives of any kind and the production methodology and environment are very similar to that of mezcal. I wonder just how much of the mezcal note I detect comes from the wild fermentation? It would be interesting to run a chemical analysis on the congeners of both spirits as the only big difference between them (apart from the raw material, of course) is that the cane is not cooked prior to crushing, like agave hearts. This is about as close to rum moonshine as you can get. In fact most clairin is literally moonshine produced on small unregulated family stills. It is usually a single distillation run and you have to trust that the distiller was not greedy and took a wide cut, because if they did it could contain a lot of methanol. So don’t go rushing off to Haiti in search of the great micro-distillery clairin experience - many people have died or gone blind from drinking the true moonshine stuff. The only clairin I have seen available for sale here is a group of spirits marketed by Velier (including this one). The distillers they contract are well regarded and the spirit is no doubt carefully checked by Velier before sale. (I have read some vague and conflicting information that the Velier-contracted distillers do a second distillation run in a small column still to "purify" and improve the cut, but I can't verify that). Fascinating neat or over ice, but I’ve yet to try it in cocktails or mixed drinks. It could be quite versatile but I doubt you could just substitute it for white rum, the profiles are wildly different. However be warned that this is not a beginner’s spirit. If you are not partial to rhum agricole then don’t come anywhere near this. “Excellent” : 88/100 (4.5 stars) BTW - the @Distiller classification calls this "silver rum". No, it absolutely is not and that misleading descriptor should be changed.100.0 AUD per Bottle
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Marie Brizard Advocaat
Dairy/Egg Liqueurs — France
Reviewed December 1, 2020 (edited August 7, 2022)Appearance: Custard yellow. Aroma: Vanilla flavoured supermarket custard, made from custard powder. Flavour and Texture: Vanilla custard and neutral spirit. The texture is rich and thick. Marie Brizard is a large French manufacturer and importer of supermarket-quality liqueurs and syrups. This advocaat is not a very good one, sadly, but I have tasted worse. On the label it says that this product is actually made in Poland so I strongly suspect it is Polmos Slaska advocaat bottled under license. That brand uses vodka instead of brandy as the base spirit and I’m tasting that here for sure. Like all cheaper brands of advocaat there is an aroma and flavour very much like vanilla custard made from custard powder, or the sort of pre-made custard you get in cardboard packs from the supermarket dairy section. This is not unpleasant, in fact I rather like that sort of custard, however the better brands are like real home-made egg custard containing fresh ingredients. The texture is also a little thin and floury, and what body it has is coming from thickeners. This does contain real eggs, but they are powdered and not fresh which changes the texture considerably, so corn starch and other ingredients have to be added. We bought this on a whim on the weekend when Mrs Cascode saw it in the liquor store and had a sudden and irresistible craving for a Fluffy Duck. What the lady wants, the lady gets, but it was just barely adequate for the purpose. If you are looking for advocaat make sure it contains fresh egg yolks and vanilla in a brandy base - that's the real McCoy. Warninks and Bols are good brands that are not too hard to find. “Inferior” : 65/100 (1.5 stars)26.0 AUD per Bottle -
Appearance: Cream with a blush of pinkish beige. Aroma: Milk, nutmeg, cinnamon and a hint of vanilla. Flavour and Texture: Sweet, creamy but not cloying. The palate is cream that is spiced gently with warm baking spices such as nutmeg and cinnamon, but it’s very restrained. There is a mild alcohol presence but it could be from vodka as much as rum. This is sort of like Bailey’s but when someone forgot to add in the cocoa and replaced the whiskey with vodka and white rum. By itself it’s harmless and a bit forgettable, but it gains interest if you mix it with anything that could go with a dairy-based drink: coffee, chocolate or raspberry liqueur for example. It's not something I'd ever bother buying again but someone who generally dislikes alcohol, and never drinks spirits, would probably find this easy to take and most enjoyable. “Adequate” : 74/100 (2.25 stars)43.0 AUD per Bottle
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Appearance: Transparent marigold yellow. Aroma: Intense vanilla with undertones of musky citrus, sandalwood, rose and cacao. Flavour and Texture: Very sweet vanilla with buttery spice notes. There are some complex nutty, citrus, honeyed and spice flavours lurking in the background but they never rise high enough in volume to challenge the loud vanilla presence. The texture is thick, luxurious and satiny and it finishes with a sweet chocolate fudge or toffee aftertaste. An unusual liquor, there is a lot going on but it is very much an intertwined profile with only vanilla standing out. It is just barely drinkable neat but exceptionally sweet – much too sweet for my palate - and I prefer it when used as an ingredient. Drinking it neat makes me imagine what drinking neat agave syrup would be like. It goes well as a topping over ice cream and it would probably be an interesting substitute in any cocktail where Galliano or Strega is normally used. It could also be an engaging variation in desserts that normally employ sugar syrup or honey, however the best use I can imagine for this is in black coffee. It's worth a taste and probably worth adding to the bar as an oddity if you happen to see it on special. I certainly don’t dislike it, but I have a feeling this bottle is going to last a very long time. The Distiller official review notes are good, but a score of 90 seems overly generous for what is, to me at least, a competent liqueur at best. However if you have a bottomless sweet tooth or really, really love the smell and taste of vanilla then you’ll be over the moon about this. By the way - Licor 43 also makes two other liqueurs that use this as a base - Horchata, which is a creamy herbal/nut liqueur, and Baristo which is a coffee liqueur. In my opinion both are superior to the original Licor 43. “Average” : 75/100 (2.5 stars)45.0 AUD per Bottle
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Archie Rose Tailored Gin
Distilled Gin — Australia
Reviewed November 30, 2020 (edited August 11, 2022)Archie Rose Distillery blending & tasting event, November 29th 2020. This review is about an event, not a specific product. Read on and all will become clear. Archie Rose is a distillery located in the Sydney suburb of Rosebery. They run events, tastings, tours and “visitor experiences” and this review is about their Gin-Blending Class and Tailored Gin. All Archie Rose gins are created using a hybrid method of distillation and blending. Each botanical (eg juniper, coriander, orris root etc) is distilled separately and these distillates are then blended. It gives them flexibility with creating new expressions and maintaining consistency, and it also allows them to run blending classes in which you can create your own gin from a base spirit and a selection of their botanical distillates. If you are happy with your gin, you can then go onto their site and save the recipe, and the distillery will make it to order with a personalised label - that is an Archie Rose "Tailored Gin". Mrs Cascode and I attended such an event last Sunday and the best part for me was being able to taste a range of pure botanical distillates. Some were exactly as I thought they would be, but others were surprising, and aromas and flavours that I’d never correctly identified before fell into place. You don’t get to see or take part in any actual distillation, however, which I thought was a missed opportunity. I also thought that it was a pity that the base spirit you use to build your gin recipe is actually the standard Archie Rose gin, so you are not really making a true personalised gin, just flavouring their product. I don’t understand why they do this instead of allowing you to simply mix distillates as you wish or build on a base of neutral spirit. It may be something to do with their liquor license. The event was AUS$115 and we both enjoyed it. The event also includes a tasting of 6 Archie Rose products, but if we had been able to do real distillation and make something truly unique it would have been even better. Still, it was a fun day out and I’d recommend it if you are in Sydney some time. "Good Fun” : 80/100 (3 stars)99.0 AUD per Bottle -
Archie Rose #KNOWMYNAME Gin
Modern Gin — Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
Reviewed November 30, 2020 (edited July 22, 2022)Archie Rose Distillery blending & tasting event, November 29th 2020, spirit #3 Nose: Juniper, dried citrus peel, herbal-lemon notes. There is also an unusual paper-like aroma. Palate: Soft strawberry and mint arrival, citrus moving to the front as it develops. A spicy kick arrives in the later palate. The texture is unremarkable. Finish: Short. Fruity in the aftertaste. This is one of Archie Rose’s range of “tailored gins”. It was created in partnership with the National Gallery of Australia to support their #KNOWMYNAME program of events, exhibitions, publications and commissions throughout 2020-21 that celebrate and increase the visibility of work by Australian women artists. The distillery has created several such commissioned gins. The official notes read “… It has a bright character, accented by native Australian botanicals including strawberry gum, pink peppercorn, river mint and orange peel.” That is in line with my tasting impression, but I did also note an unusual waxy-papery aroma which I think might come from Sydney waxflowers. A pleasant enough gin, but hardly one of the most interesting I’ve experienced and far from the best I’ve tasted from Archie Rose. This was pretty ordinary, to be honest, and at the high asking price I would not recommend it. “Average” : 76/100 (2.5 stars)100.0 AUD per Bottle -
Archie Rose Distillery blending & tasting event, November 29th 2020, spirit #5 Nose: Red wine, grape juice, strawberries, orange peel, cardamom, cinnamon and juniper. Palate: Spicy and arrival with clove, cinnamon, dusty root extracts, dried orange peel, star anise, juniper and cardamom. Some citrus elements as well but they are in the background and have an herbal quality. There is a woody note probably from orris root or bark extracts. The texture is good but not outstanding. There is a note similar to the berry aromas that were found in the nose, but it is surprisingly faint given its prominence on the nose. Finish: Medium. Gently spicy, the baking-spices from the palate linger into the aftertaste. This is one of two gins made by Archie Rose Distillery in collaboration with the Sydney Opera House to be their official “house gins”. They are named “Outside” and “Inside” respectively. This Inside expression was inspired by the intense drama of opera and symphony orchestra performances, and the profile would indicate that it was designed to be served at indoor events or in cooler weather. It is a warming, spicy and very flavourful gin with berry-like overtones, particularly on the nose. I would guess this comes from sweet Australian native botanicals such as lilli-pilli and strawberry gum and there is probably a good helping of cassia and cinnamon bark in the infusion as well. It is a bolder gin than the “Outside” expression and I did not enjoy it as much either neat or in a G&T, but it could be interesting in cocktails and might make a very fine negroni. Another interesting variation on the standard Archie Rose Signature Dry Gin formula. It is, however, quite expensive and may be of limited appeal. I’d certainly recommend a taste before buying, if possible. “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)100.0 AUD per Bottle
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Archie Rose Distillery blending & tasting event, November 29th 2020, spirit #4 Nose: Floral, fruity (apple), light and relaxed. There is a fragrance reminiscent of Australian native trees in spring - a honeyed nectar-like aroma. Palate: Very soft and comforting arrival when tasted neat. A tiny citrus presence, possibly from yuzu or finger lime. There is a warming, creamy spice note that is probably due to a good dose of orris root. The texture is velvety and plush. Finish: Medium. The soft, creamy quality from the palate continues and fades into a very mild citrus aftertaste. This is one of two gins made by Archie Rose Distillery in collaboration with the Sydney Opera House to be their official “house gins”. They are named “Outside” and “Inside” respectively, and this Outside expression was inspired by the architecture of the Opera House and its Sydney Harbour setting. The profile of the gin would indicate that it was designed to be served at open-air events in warm weather. The soft citrus and mild spice qualities are intended to create a cooling effect, and it is particularly good in a long gin and tonic with lots of ice where it creates a pleasant, well balanced summer drink. A successful variant of the standard Archie Rose Signature Dry Gin. We bought a bottle of this following the tasting as Mrs Cascode particularly liked it, however that was with an “after event” discount and I would not recommend it at the normal retail price. If it was about $30 cheaper it would be value for money. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)100.0 AUD per Bottle
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Archie Rose Original Vodka
Botanical Spirit — Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
Reviewed November 29, 2020 (edited August 5, 2022)Nose: Crisp, clean with mild but well-defined botanical components. Light citrus, green apple skins, a hint of raspberry (but very delicate), mint, coriander and eucalyptus (also very delicate). There is a floral quality to the overall nose. Palate: Faintly sweet arrival with a mild white pepper bite. Yuzu and green apple in the development with a hint of liquorice. The mouthfeel is creamy and silken. Finish: Medium/short. Mineral and light pepper finish tailing into a clean, fresh aftertaste with just a suggestion of citrus. I was uncertain where to classify this spirit because although Archie Rose simply call it their “Original” vodka it is unmistakably a botanical spirit and not simply unflavoured vodka. However, neither is it what I think of as a “flavoured” vodka. There is no heavy-handed injection of flavourings here but instead a subtle and diaphanous infusion of complex botanicals. Mrs Cascode & I attended a gin-blending course yesterday (despite the torrid 41 degree Celsius weather in Sydney!) and we tasted this vodka as part of a flight of spirits following the event. When tasted in isolation this presents as a very delicately flavoured vodka but in the context of several gins, and especially once you have tasted some of their undiluted botanical extracts, it is obvious that this is basically Archie Rose’s Signature Gin executed with a lighter touch and no juniper component at all (and I suspect no coriander or orris root either). Very refreshing, it works well with tonic and also with soda water for a lighter-bodied long drink, and for me anyway it is far more interesting taken neat than any unflavoured vodka I’ve tasted. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)69.0 AUD per Bottle -
Suze Gentian Liqueur
Bitter Liqueurs — France
Reviewed November 26, 2020 (edited September 22, 2023)Appearance (neat): Chrome yellow. Appearance (diluted): Pale canary yellow. Aroma (neat): Crisp, clear, clean gentian extract. Some earthy herbal and root extract notes. Flavour (neat): Sugary, honeyed sweetness at first, followed by a growing awareness of bitterness. Initially the bitterness is one-note, but with time complexity is obvious with turmeric, saffron and juniper all being clearly identifiable. The texture is full and mouth-coating, but not syrupy. Suze is one of the more difficult bitter liqueurs to get to know and use effectively. It’s not an aperitivo like Aperol nor is it an amaro that can stand on its own as an aperitif or digestif. It’s somewhere in between and can be enjoyed equally neat over ice or as a cocktail ingredient. It breaks the rules and does not go particularly well with prosecco, but can be balanced by a sweet asti sparkling wine to create a very pleasant and refreshing long drink. It also rebels against tonic but gets on very well with lemonade. Surprisingly, it loves rouge vermouth. Unlike many amari and aperitifs that employ gentian, either in solo or as a duet with wormwood, in order to add a bitter quality, Suze goes the whole distance and is based squarely on that herbal extract with many other subtle aromatics in support. Its apparent immediate simplicity belies the complexity of the drink and proves that gentian, like juniper, is a subtle and multi-faceted aromatic. A fascinating and initially quirky aperitif that grows on you once you acquire the taste. “Very Good” : 86/100 (4 stars)55.0 AUD per Bottle
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