Tastes
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Berry Bros. & Rudd Classic Blended Malt Sherry Cask Matured
Blended Malt — Scotland
Reviewed September 11, 2020 (edited February 9, 2024)Nose: Strong oloroso sherry presence. Raisins, resinous oak, rancio, brown sugar, treacle, orange oil. There is a distinct, and highly intrusive, note of sulphur. If you start to nose this carefully from a few inches away, slowly drawing closer to the glass, at a certain point you will suddenly catch a big, unmistakable whiff of sherry with no whisky presence at all. Then as you get closer the whisky notes win out. Palate: Dark fruit, burnt sugar and black tea on the arrival. Some sweet orange and red berries in the development. Dark, slightly over-cooked Christmas cake. The texture is full but not heavy and there is a smidge of oaky bitterness. Once again there is a sulphur taint that shows as a rubbery black-olive note. Finish: Medium. Fruity, treacle pudding fading out to dark chocolate and a hint of orange marmalade. Berry Bros. & Rudd are the UK’s oldest wine and spirits merchants. They have been the British royal family’s appointed wine supplier for over 200 years and have held royal warrants since 1903. This is one of four blended malts they first released in 2018 as their “Classic Range”. The other expressions are Peated Cask, Islay Blended and Classic Speyside. The moment I first nosed this, the following farcical Noël Coward-ish exchange popped into my mind: “Darling … “ “Hmmm?” “Add a bottle of whisky to the BB&R order, would you? There’s a dear … the Fortescue-Smythes are coming next week and I believe he prefers whisky” “Do you know what brand?” “Oh, I wouldn't have the slightest idea – they all taste the same, don't they? Just ask them to include something that will go with pheasant and retired colonel”. This blend would be an adequate choice if you are unfamiliar with scotch whisky and want to experience an old-school, sulphur-tainted sherried presentation without spending a lot. You won’t really regret the experience and you will learn most of what there is to know about both the positives and negatives of the style. However if you are already familiar with Glenrothes, Tamdhu, Benrinnes, GlenDronach or Glengoyne then you pretty much know this profile already along with all its attendant joys and disappointments. A single malt from any of the above distilleries will be more interesting and most likely of better quality (but also probably more expensive). The vatting of this blend is not revealed but I’d wager there is a high percentage of young Glenrothes. It has that slightly rubbery, brimstone-industrial quality Glenrothes often displays. This was very noticeable when the bottle was first opened however it oxidised quickly over a few days and now that the level is down past the shoulder it is more enjoyable. It is also improved by adding a teaspoon of water to the dram and allowing it to sit and rest in the glass for a while. This reduces the sulphurous note whilst bringing out fresher, fruitier qualities. “Very, Very Average” : 75/100 (2.5 stars)80.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Soft, gentle and led by subtle wood aromas that remind me of cedarwood shavings. Malted barley, cereal, fresh and dried apple, a touch of brine and some grassy notes. You certainly smell grain whisky, but it's high quality. I get very little of the smoky note that is often mentioned. Palate: Silky-sweet, dulcet cereal arrival - very welcoming. There is nothing whatsoever confrontational about this palate. Orchard fruits appear in mid-palate balanced by a subtle salt note and a miniscule hint of spice. There is also a toffee/fudge presence and if you let this whisky sit for a while to open in the glass it becomes more obvious. However the immediate core of the palate is dilute black tea, and way in the distance there is some smoke, but it is vanishingly light. Finish: Short. Fades out into a generic grain whisky character, with the weak tea and some watery cereal being all that remain on the aftertaste. Whether or not you like this will depend entirely on whether you enjoy old-school blended scotch, because that is the profile here in spades. It is remarkably easy to drink and soft, dare I say "smooth", and at the risk of being outrageously politically incorrect it is a very "feminine" profile. Unlike the Ballantine's Finest and 12 year old blends (both of which I quite like) this is not crafted to be used as a mixer or diluted in any way - unless perhaps with just a dash of soda water. It is intended specifically for neat consumption and is made to be as agreeable and accommodating as possible. This is a whisky that even non-whisky drinkers will enjoy. It is similar to Haig Gold Label and in common with that expression it has an intentionally muted malt presence and a dependence on good quality, soft grain whisky. If this sounds like the sort of thing you like then you will certainly enjoy this whisky. However if you crave sharply defined, highly-lit flavours and aromas then look elsewhere because this will seem watery. I'm enjoying this bottle, which I picked up on special at about 2/3 normal price (the price given below is the normal retail) but even at that discount I probably wouldn't bother buying it again. "Above Average" : 82/100 (3.25 stars)100.0 AUD per Bottle
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Bunnahabhain 24 year (1987/2011) Duncan Taylor Rare Auld
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed September 7, 2020 (edited July 9, 2022)Nose (neat): High proof mead, dried apples, dried pears, dried peaches, dried apricots. There are beautiful supple oak notes with an aromatic sandalwood character. The nose is quite spirity - not that there is an overt alcohol aroma, it's just one of those noses with a strong "nip" that sort of curls the nostril hairs. It's brisk, clean and powerful but also sweet and very attractive. After a few minutes, as the initial vapours burn off, it becomes deeper and more honeyed with orange oil and beeswax aromas. Lurking in the background is the tiniest wisp of maritime character. I could enjoy this nose for days. Nose (watered): A drop or two of water makes it softer and more elegant, with bouquets of flowers emerging - jonquils, roses, honeysuckle - arranged skilfully in a bowl on a heavily waxed old dresser. Stunning, but I think I prefer the neat nose even more. Adding more water takes it to a place where the nose transforms into a melange of waxy honeyed notes, that is delicious and very soothing. The dry glass aroma (neat) is entirely floral. Palate (neat): Wham! A big, forceful arrival of dried fruit and big, soft chewy tannins. It's not even slightly dry but like the nose it is spirity in a good way. Not hot, but you know for sure that you are tasting something with high abv. The development is most unusual because seemingly from nowhere a glorious bloom of honeycomb suddenly bursts forth accompanied by ginger syrup and hazelnuts. The texture is slightly oily but balanced by grippy tannins that build towards the finish. As it rests in the glass the sweet characteristics in the development become more prominent. Palate (watered): Elegant, sophisticated, poised and finely nuanced. The arrival is softened considerably and the palate changes to a tray of juicy orchard fruits, drizzled in honey. It also develops a delightful mist, testament to its non-filtered nature. Finish: Medium. Sweet and fruity, fading to light spicy cinnamon astringincy. The addition of water mutes the aftertaste to a light buzz. I was getting a little tired of tasting liqueurs and gin, and with some friends coming over this weekend to play cards it was time to dive into the stash and open a malt whisky. The Longrow Red 11 year old I opened a couple of months ago is now on its last legs, and this Duncan Taylor Bunnahabhain 24 seemed like a worthy follow-up. This is part of their "Rare Auld" series. It was distilled in 1987 and spent its entire life in the one cask before being bottled in November 2011. The outturn was 399 bottles, of which mine is number 213. I bought it in 2013 when it cost AUS$230 and it's long out of stock now but I have seen it listed for around £250 on the UK secondaries. The profile of this single cask whisky is totally different to that of the older OB Bunnahabhain whiskies I've tasted. Certainly nothing at all like the excellent 18 and 25 year olds, but equally as good. They have a far darker presentation with immense sherry and dark fruits, whereas this is light and honeyed. I don't know what the casking was but the outturn was probably too big for a hoggie, so maybe it was a sherry cask, but if so it must have been 2nd fill. Highly recommended. If you see a bottle at a good price, don't hesitate. "Excellent" : 89/100 (4.75 stars)230.0 AUD per Bottle -
Patrón XO Cafe
Coffee Liqueurs — Los Altos, Jalisco, Mexico
Reviewed September 5, 2020 (edited December 8, 2020)Appearance: Dark mahogany/burnt sienna. Opaque. Aroma: A mild coffee aroma similar to that of drip-filter black coffee. An odd overtone of alcohol with an oily component. Flavour and Texture: Thick, syrupy and very sweet on the arrival. Sugar was the first thing I tasted. That was followed by a mild black coffee flavour and then a subtle note of alcohol that is quickly identified as tequila, but although it's obvious, it's not intrusive or out of place. The finish is fairly long and the tequila presence lasts. This is amazingly sweet and syrupy - I mean *really* sweet. It tasted to me like a cup of generic black coffee with about 10 teaspoons of white sugar and a dash of tequila added. For my palate it is way over the top in sweetness. Also, although tequila works in this context and is not unpleasant I much prefer rum, cognac or neutral spirit as a base for a coffee liqueur. That's not a criticism of the drink per se, just my taste preference, and although I've tried to be objective there is something about this liqueur that does not appeal to me. The many elephants in the room are, of course, the other coffee liqueurs that have appeared over the last few years and which are around the same price but considerably superior to this one. Tasted from a distillery-issued 50ml miniature. "Adequate" : 70/100 (2.25 stars65.0 AUD per Bottle -
Baileys Original Irish Cream
Dairy/Egg Liqueurs — Ireland
Reviewed September 5, 2020 (edited February 27, 2023)Appearance: Beige, creamy and viscous. Aroma: Vanilla nougat, milk chocolate, very mild nuttiness, muted whiskey. Flavour and Texture: Creamy, rich, well balanced cocoa and spicy notes. The influence of whiskey is more notable in the palate than the nose, even if defined whisky flavours are not. I can't believe I've never reviewed Bailey's here before. Not only because it is so popular and well known, but because it is so frequently in our refrigerator. Mrs Cascode has a fondness for it and I'm no stranger to it myself. It's a pleasant, comfy drop for when you occasionally want a creamy sweet after dinner. I think of it as the alcohol equivalent of fudge, or a somewhat ratty but very comfortable old cardigan. The most fascinating thing about Bailey's is its inception. There is nothing historic or traditional about this stuff - it was invented by a marketing team in 1973 and the original recipe took about 45 minutes to formulate, using ingredients bought from the supermarket near their office. The only reason it exists was because David Gluckman and his partner were handed a consultancy to invent a drink that would use Irish spirits in order to exploit a government tax break that had been negotiated by their client. If you want to read a fascinating account about this find Gluckman's book "That S**t Will Never Sell" or go here for a long extract from the first chapter: https://www.irishtimes.com/culture/books/in-1973-i-invented-a-girly-drink-called-baileys-1.3240945 It's a riveting read. The really sobering thing is how much this happens. Very few liqueurs have an authentic artisan history, folk roots, or were created through passion just to bring a new taste sensation to the world. The majority of liqueurs only exist because sometime, somewhere, someone in a marketing department wanted a new product to compete with an existing one. Anyway, this is still pleasant and perfectly drinkable. Like most well-engineered liqueurs, it works, and Bailey's is substantially cheaper than most of its imitators. The official tasting notes and score are right on target. "Average" : 78/100 (2.75 stars)29.0 AUD per Bottle -
Coole Swan Irish Cream Liqueur
Dairy/Egg Liqueurs — Ireland
Reviewed September 5, 2020 (edited August 8, 2022)Appearance: Off-white, creamy, viscous. Very like fresh cream. Aroma: Vanilla, butter, cream, a note of whiskey but it's very mild and shy. Flavour and Texture: Creamy vanilla and white chocolate with a low-key alcohol background that is barely recognizable as whiskey. Some very quiet spice notes (nutmeg, cinnamon). The texture is thick and creamy, but not as heavy as some liqueurs. Another Irish cream liqueur competing for a share of a very profitable market. To all intents and purposes this is Bailey's Irish Cream without any cacao, but don't take that as harsh criticism. It's pleasant and I have a sweet tooth so I enjoy such cream liqueurs a lot, but they are all engineered from the same template and none has much complexity. In its class, if you like this style of drink, it's perfectly OK and I can't imagine anyone actively disliking it. "Average" : 79/100 (2.75 stars)50.0 AUD per Bottle -
Stone Pine Original Dry Gin
London Dry Gin — Bathurst, NSW, Australia
Reviewed September 5, 2020 (edited July 22, 2022)Nose: Juniper, lemon, lime, bay leaf, rosemary. Palate: Smooth and soft on the arrival. Herbal and sweet with a very nice developing creamy texture. Juniper is certainly present but not to a dominant degree. Citrus and a host of botanicals are clearly just as important and there is a satisfying balance. There is an underpinning botanical sweetness to the palate that is attractive. Finish: Medium. Mild and pleasant, it gently flows into a mild herbal aftertaste. A perfectly acceptable and pleasant London-dry style gin with no off notes at all. It's very well composed and balanced, and a pleasure to drink neat. As a mixer it works very well in a gin and tonic, and I imagine it would be fine in all the classic cocktails. The only criticism is that it has little to differentiate it from a host of other middle-shelf gins. Given that, it all comes down to price and at AUS$75 this is nudging the upper edge of the envelope. I'm rating this on the good side of average, and I'm sure almost every gin drinker would enjoy it. However at the asking price the distillery has set themselves against some very tough competition. Tasted from a 30ml sampler, many thanks Wei. "Average" : 78/100 (2.75 stars)75.0 AUD per Bottle -
Squealing Pig Rose Gin
Distilled Gin — New Zealand
Reviewed September 5, 2020 (edited July 22, 2022)Nose: Juniper, citrus, lavender. It's a classic, straight-down-the-middle gin nose. There is just a hint of sweetness from the rosé, but if I tasted it blind I probably wouldn't identify it as such, as it could just as easily be from a berry botanical. Palate: On the sweeter side of neutral, well balanced by citrus and a well chosen bouquet of botanicals. The added dash of rosé is much more noticeable on the palate, but it's certainly not intrusive. It serves mainly to add a cloak of complexity and texture, rather than just a flavour component. Finish: Medium. Juniper and the rosé hint tail off into a mildly spicy finish. This is, obviously, a gin that includes a small amount of rosé wine which lends a pale salmon pink colour and an agreeable faint sweetness and richness of texture. Squealing Pig is primarily a winery and gin distillation is a more recent side-line. They also have a pinot noir gin that I have not yet tasted. Very pleasant and refreshing. At first I was a little sceptical about the combination but it has been adroitly handled here, the keys to its success being moderation and balance. This is not a weird and over-intense gin, but one that has been composed with style and skill to be very much a classic London dry gin with just a dash of individuality. It's also a cheeky double-shuffle on "pink gin" - I wonder what it would be like with bitters? The distiller suggests taking it with soda over ice, but I much preferred it with light tonic and just a curl of lemon rind. It makes a very good classic gin and tonic. Tasted from a shared sample - thank you, Wei. "Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)60.0 AUD per Bottle -
Stone Pine Black Truffle Gin 2017
Flavored Gin — Bathurst, NSW, Australia
Reviewed September 5, 2020 (edited July 22, 2022)Nose: Earth, licorice, smoke (!) and a sweet, grassy compost-like aroma. After a while as you become accustomed to the unusual facets of the nose the more expected juniper elements come forward, together with a fragrant spicy note. It's not unlike a bowl of potpourri based on fragrant bark and roots. Palate: Rich, meaty, earthy, savory and herbal. There is a strong farmyard quality to it that is very unusual. The texture is full and satisfying. Finish: Long. The earthy spice flavours linger for ages. The nose is remarkable with it's truffle-based, humus-and-manure notes and once you get the hang of it, it becomes quite compelling. There is no citrus at all and no floral notes, which is very unusual for a gin. This is solidly herbal and spice-based with ingredients that include orris root, coriander seed and black pepper beside the black truffle. The palate is similarly rich, oily and spicey in nature with the juniper note plainly visible in the background. The texture is heavy and full - in some ways this is more like genever than gin. The distillery recommends this for use in a martini, or with just a dash of soda water, but personally I think that while it is intriguing as a neat drink it is ruined by any sort of dilution. It's very strength of personality is the thing preventing its use as a mixer. Adding soda made it seem suddenly thin and unsatisfying. As for tonic water - don't even consider it. While the bitter and fragrant nature of tonic is a perfect compliment to the sweet, aromatic juniper and citrus character of almost all gins, it is a terrible combination in this case, producing a distasteful result rather like insecticide. A laudable experiment, but one of very limited appeal. It's the sort of thing you taste at a distillery and buy for the sake of curiosity and to have as an occasional neat dram, but you would never buy it as a staple for the bar. Very hard to rate. I enjoyed it but it's quirky in the extreme and anyone looking for a standard style of gin would find this disgusting. I'm giving it a compromise rating of "Above Average". It is no longer available but when it was the price was quite high, and frankly I would probably never have bought a bottle. It's something of a Frankenstein monster - fascinating, even compelling, but basically a freak. Many thanks to Wei for the 30ml tasting sample. "Above Average" : 80/100 (3 stars)150.0 AUD per Bottle -
Archie Rose Golden Gimlet
Ready to Drink — Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
Reviewed September 5, 2020 (edited August 10, 2022)Appearance: Lightly golden transparent liquid with flecks of golden particles. Aroma: Rose, elderflower, citrus (mandarin? tangello?) Flavour and texture: Sweet on the arrival with citrus and juniper flavours immediately apparent. A sweet fruitiness becomes more dominant as it stays in the mouth and lychees are apparent, but the lasting note is gin. The texture is full from the syrup content. This is one of four cocktails invented by mixologist Rocky Hair at the bar attached to Archie Rose distillery in the inner-city Sydney suburb of Rosebery. The cocktails are being sold in 700ml bottles and can be bought directly from the bar or ordered online. The Golden Gimlet is a classic gimlet (gin and lime cordial) enhanced by the addition of elderflower and lychee liqueurs and based on Archie Rose's own Standard Gin. I believe all the components of the cocktail are distilled in-house. It's sweet, refreshing and approachable. The other pre-mixed drinks available are Espresso Martinique (an espresso martini variant), Tall Poppy (a variant of the Clover Club cocktail, but without egg white and more sour), and a classic pre-mixed Negroni. Prices range from $69-89 a bottle and for the level of quality and convenience these offer, I'd call them good value. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)79.0 AUD per Bottle
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