Tastes

See dual review of Octomore 8.3.

My oh my, what a fine day in November this turned out to be. Last night I received an email from one of my preferred retailers announcing arrival of the Octomore 8 series along with the newest Compass Box releases (Phenomenology & No Name). Waking early with the excitement of a 4 year old on Christmas morning, I had the car gassed and ready to go. I made the mistake of taking a quick look at the Distiller app and reading Pranay’s review of CB No Name and thought, “This is it…..this is finally the day I come face to face with the king of peat!” Between Octomore 8.3 (309ppm) and Compass Box No Name, I was sure to get smacked in the face with a smoldering peat log. Returning home well stocked, I quickly unwrapped the two competitors and readied them for the showdown. The two rivals presented themselves well while facing each other in matching glencairns. No Name weighed in at 48.9% ABV and was wearing the light gold trunks, while Octomore 8.3 tipped the scale at 61.2% ABV and was sporting light copper trunks. Going nose to nose, No Name presented similar measures of smoky malted barley and elegant oak (American and French), both swirling in a luscious pool of ethanol. Octomore, on the other hand, was equal to No Name in toasted barley smokiness, but richer and fruitier based on a combination of bourbon-aged American oak and European oak previously saturated in a quartet of red wines from France. This additional boldness aided Octomore in winning a draw for this category. On the palate both packed a hot punch with Octomore landing more solidly given its increased strength. With a multitude of peppery punches being thrown by both fighters, the audience was unable to discern a clear leader. Between rounds, both contestants were doused with the cooling effects of water and continued at a more tolerable pace in subsequent rounds. Here, No Name exhibited tarry elements of re-charring along with some dry, mild fruitiness, while the larger-than-life Octomore deftly maneuvered the ring throwing a complex assortment of jabs aimed at dried fruits, nuts, and barbequed clams. To this point, judges scored the fight even going into the final round. The finish proved to be well contested, with both aspirants going the lengthy distance in amazingly satisfying fashion. The audience showed their appreciation with a standing ovation lasting a full 5 minutes and one for each star registered. Both champions left the ring undefeated, but with trepidation that a king may still lurking in the wings awaiting discovery.

By far, the highlight of our recent trip to western Scotland was the isle of Islay and warehouse tour at Lagavulin. Arriving by ferry at Port Askaig in the north, and a stone’s throw from the Caol Ila distillery, we took the route less traveled on the island’s interior and headed south toward Port Ellen. The road was only wide enough for a single vehicle, but this lent itself to the mostly flat yet spectacular, rust-colored landscape. Our scenic drive featured numerous crossings of both pheasant and sheep - seeming oblivious to our intrusions - and highland cattle roamed the farmlands unfettered. The island’s only golf course, Machrie Links, was also breathtaking with rolling hills of green and ocean view backdrops. It is newly built around the old course and the fairways walked like the plush carpets of the world‘s best. With a new course hotel scheduled, Machrie Links will become an attractive destination for whisky-loving golfers everywhere. Lagavulin is located east of Port Ellen on the island’s southern tip and along the same road as Laphroaig and Ardbeg. The main distillery was closed for yearly maintenance, so we signed up for a warehouse tour not knowing what to expect. The event was hosted by Lagavulin's famed employee of 47 years, Ian McArthur, and held in one of their venerable storehouses amongst the world famous whiskies. The sampling featured 5 cask strength expressions ranging from 5 years to 35 years, and matured “exclusively” in ex-sherry barrels. These whiskies are only available at the distillery, and were hand selected by Ian specifically for the warehouse tours. Ian has also made the cask selections for several of the yearly Fèis Ìle releases. The tour expressions included a 5yo-61.6%, 13yo-52.1%, 19yo-52.4%, 24yo-49.8%, and 35yo-53.5%. Ian proved to be quite the showman and well known for his antics. A few visitors made the mistake of wearing apparel labeled from competing distilleries and Ian treated them to one of his trademark whisky head-scrubs. With valinch in hand, Ian moved from one glorious cask to the next drawing enough liquid to supply the glasses of 30 or so in attendance. He also left enough time to reapply his torture to those mentioned, and this was done to the howling and laughter of a well plied audience. After the show and a few photos, everyone scrambled back to the distillery shop to gobble up the 2017 Fèis Ìle offering (distillery exclusive). The festivities did well to loosen the grips on the visitor’s wallets. I managed to scrounge a sample prior to purchase of #4496/6000 and my luggage stowaway somehow survived the journey back to the States. Cask strength and bottled at 56.1 ABV, this 16yo double-matured whisky was finished in Moscatel wine casks rumored to have been previously used by Caol Ila. Despite cloudy sensibilities, I had a “Wow!” moment and this expression struck me as significantly better than those sampled on the tour. The higher proof did little to suppress an elegant nose that was mixed with the briny and savory smoke we have all come to know and love as Lagavulin. The first sip was incredibly smooth and satisfying, but, unfortunately, this is about all I remember other than its color that appeared natural and several degrees lighter than its 16yo brothers. Some day I will surely complete this review, but, for now, I still give this whisky a total-experience rating of 5 stars! Many thanks to a lovable Ian McArthur for his years of service and fond memories we will never forget. :)

This sample was sent my way by @LeeEvolved. It was a rare treat based on cost and exclusivity, so many thanks to a gracious Lee for providing it. I decided to compare the Twenty Something against its brethren, Ardbeg Uigeadail. I’ve been savoring the Uigeadail for a while now and stuck between rating it 4 or 5 stars. Comparing the two for color, the 20 Something comes through a little darker reflecting the extra years of sherry cask influence, and since both are sherry conceived, smokiness was diminished in comparison to Ardbeg 10. In addition, the nose on the Uigeadail was clearly more robust than the 20 Something, calling to mind Jim Murray’s opinion that most whiskies will suffer from too much time in the barrel. Lastly, the comparison forced up some bourbon spiciness in the Uigeadail (allspice) I hadn’t noticed previously. Indulging the palate with these two whiskies is an act of total bliss. Similar notes of toasted barley, sherry, and vanilla dominate. Other common traits were subtle smoke, dried fruits, mocha, and a touch of sea salt. Again, the Uigeadail offered the additional hint of bourbon spiciness best described as banana nut bread. I must admit, a visit to the west cost of Scotland and the islands helped to enhance this tasting, but that’s what life is all about. We struggle to make a livable world for our families, so when you get a chance to enjoy life, whatever your dream, then make the most if it. And the most if it I did, as these whiskies brought me back to the windswept shores of Britain and Ireland and the peated campfires I’m sure once dotted their expanse. Of course, none of this would be possible without the efforts of people like my maternal uncle whom I’ve never met. He lost his young life in the battle of Anzio during WWII and is buried in Italy, a far cry from his home and family. So, it’s to him and others like him I dedicate this toast. They sacrificed their lives so that we could enjoys ours on this sacred Memorial Day weekend in our country. May 5 stars guide his path to heaven.

One of the highlights of our recent golf and distillery tour of western Scotland was the Isle of Arran. Nestled in the Firth of Clyde next to the Kintyre Peninsula and Campbeltown area, the island is both picturesque and a geological wonder. Like Scotland itself, the highland boundary fault cuts the island in half leaving a northern portion with rocky hills and the peak of Goat Fell reaching 2,866 feet. The southern areas are considered lowlands but still hilly. Arran distillery is located in the northwest corner at Lochranza, and they are currently building a second facility on the southern tip of the 167 sq. mi. isle at Lagg. Lochranza was chosen as the location for the original distillery due to its water source, Loch Na Davie, which they claim provides the softest water on the island and possibly all of Scotland. Since their inception, Arran has had a reputation for using quality casks and this is very evident on the nose with all of their expressions. For a young distillery (1995) they have also done a fair amount of experimentation with quarter and winey cask finishes. During our stay we tried a wide variety, including their rare 21st Anniversary and ArranTrust editions. Others included their new 18yo, the Port Cask Finish, Machrie Moor, Machrie Moor CS, The Bothy-Qtr Cask, 14yo, 12yo CS, 10yo, Lachranza Reserve, Sauternes Cask Finish, Amarone Cask Finish, Madeira Cask Finish, and a blend or two. If one could only use a single hyphenated word to describe the Arran distillery and their whiskies it would be “high-quality.” For this reason they have already attracted an impressive cadre of followers that swamped the distillery recently for the release of “The Exciseman,” which sold out in only two days and is already bringing twice the retail price at auction. We spent four days on Arran slowly enjoying the above listed with standouts for me being their new 18yo (blue label, copper lettering), followed by the 21st Anniversary, and, lastly, the peaty Machrie Moor CS edition. A few of my friends liked the Port Cask Finish best. My favorite, the 18yo, was bottled at 46% ABV, and aged in a mixture of ex-bourbon and sherry barrels. And, like everything else Arran does, is non-chill filtered with no color added. I found the nose on the 18yo to be both unique and superb. It was unusually spicy with unrecognizable elements and a cut above their other offerings. My guess is the extra time in the casks contributed to this, but it somehow didn’t translate the same way for their 21st Anniversary release, which is a combination of spirits from their first 3 bottlings (95, 96, & 97). The palate on the 18 was a smooth mix of honeyed vanilla, almonds, and cinnamon spices with just the right amount of heat to preclude water. The finish was, again, smooth and satisfying with hints of roasted barley and a tad sweet, but mostly dry. An excellent dram I would rate at 4.25 stars with the others being not far behind. Keep your eyes on these folks; they are climbing fast!

A dram of this and a free glass were our consolation prizes after being told by Ardbeg's Visitor Center Manager, Jackie Thomson, that she didn't want to fill the next distillery tour because the group required an interpreter and she thought it might be too busy for them. I assume it was the group of Frenchies we saw double-cheek kissing her while we were having lunch in their renovated and upscale cafe. For those of you that don't know the history, Glenmorangie bought Ardbeg from Hiram Walker in 1997 when production was limited. Glenmorangie was then acquired by LVMH (Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton), the luxury goods conglomerate, in 2004. LVMH has net income of about $6 billion on annual sales of around $35 billion. Much of these inflated profits come from people willing to spend up to $10,000 for a Louis Vuitton handbag made with about $20 bucks of cheap leather. Not wanting to get ripped off, I only spend about $1,500 for my wife's Gucci's made with the same cheap leather. Anyway, since Ms. Thomson was very polite and also easy on the eyes, she somehow mesmerized us into not getting worked up. The important thing to be gleaned from all of this is the direction both Glenmorangie and Ardbeg are heading with NAS expressions. Since the acquisition of Glenmorange by LVMH, their bottles have been redesigned to have a more curvaceous and appealing look. They are also coupled with elegant sounding names such as The Quinta Ruban, Nectar d'Or, and LaSanta. Soon, we will need to order our whisky with the assistance of a sommelier. Ardbeg is going in a similar direction with a lineup of cool sounding NAS whiskies designed to get to market quickly. Double maturation, quarter-casking, and use of virgin American and European oak are all experiments that have produced some excellent single-malts in an accelerated timeframe, so I wouldn't expect this trend to end anytime soon. After all, increased sales and profits are the name of the game. As for Ardbeg AN OA, well...........I've never had an Ardbeg that I would rate less than 4 stars, and the same holds true here. My favorite, however, is still Ardbeg 10, so I hope they don't mess with the recipe.

This is a great whisky. A rich mahogany profile advertises an interesting combination of first-fill bourbon and sherry wood influences. The 48% ABV does nothing to inhibit a lavishly elegant nose produced by way of both American and European oak. These strains plied the spirit, in some ratio, for 7 to 21 years, and quarter-cask components were also part of the mix. Along with this dizzying harmonization of wood tannins, a light campfire smoke also permeates mixed with the sweet aroma of malted barley and a replication of scents experienced recently at the Laphroaig distillery when standing in their kiln and looking up through the blackened rafters which form its pagoda roof chimney. The palate opens incredibly smooth with more light smoke blended with flavors of vanilla, almonds, raisins, and bakery goods all enhanced by the fresh salt air of a seaside festival. No water is necessary despite the hefty proof. The finish is rich, dry and satisfying with the assurance of a whisky masterfully crafted to celebrate 200 years of artistry in spirit making. Hopefully, the new Japanese landlords will continue to hold onto this successful formula and only add their expertise in whisky making and marketing where necessary. A solid 4.25 stars.

I finally broke into a sample of the Quarter Cask that I’ve been sitting on. Our trip to western Scotland is coming up in a couple of weeks and includes stops in Islay, Arran, and Campbeltown, so this is like cramming for finals, only more fun. After removing the small cap from the Whisky Exchange sample I was delighted by the traditional Laphroaig campfire smoke wafting from the tiny opening. I thought, “Wow, this could be the one….the king of peat smoke I’ve been searching for.” The way Lagavulin 16 tasted when I tried my first Islay 20 years ago and declared, “How the hell can anyone drink this stuff? It tastes like drinking straight iodine!“ Back then I held up the bottle fully expecting to see a big chunk of peat floating in the whisky. This was the first naive step in the addiction that followed and brings us to today. This whisky is comprised of spirits ranging from 5 to 11 years old and comes in with a healthy ABV of 48% and is non-chill filtered. It’s light gold in color and double matured with the final 6-8 months resting in 125 liter ex-bourbon quarter casks. The company claims this expression harkens to an era over a century ago when quarter casks were used to facilitate transport. Others argue, the higher wood-to-spirit ratio is designed to accelerate maturation and thereby meet demand for a burgeoning marketplace the Wall Street Journal describes as having grown by 126% since 2005. Nosing the Glencairn the wood influence is immediately noticeable and having an elegance reminiscent of the French limousin oak used to age Jura Prophesy. A drying glass will produce the exquisite scent of centuries old poplar. The New England clambake briny smoke is tame compared to the 10yo & 10yo CS versions and is accompanied by vanilla toffee, oaken spiciness, and alcoholic dryness. The first taste contains peppery effervescence that settles into a creamy peppercorn sauce smothering a grilled sirloin. It is followed by light smoke, vanilla saltwater taffy, and citrus notes. It finishes dry with oaken tannins, again noticeable, and slightly ashy, which is both typical of Laphroaig and very likable. My search continues, but, nonetheless, a great whisky and a solid 4 stars!

The packaging of these editions are outstanding, looking like expensively bound books in a 3-part series. The binder cover has hidden magnets keeping it firmly in place, and upon opening you find a weathered cover page with information about the series. Another flip reveals the hidden treasure, seemingly hiding in carved out pages, along with a short history of smuggling on the island, and more info on the whisky itself. Volume 2 shares its contents as follows: Arran Single Malt - Rum Cask Finish, Matured in 200L American Oak Barrels; Arran Single Malt - Peated Stock 50PPM, Matured in 200L Ex-Bourbon Barrels; and Arran Single Malt - Unpeated Arran Malt, Matured in 200L Ex-Bourbon Barrels, 1st Fill. The whisky is cask strength with an ABV of 55.4%, natural color, and non-chill filtered. I’ve included a Dropbox link to some photos in the comments section. The color of this spirit is a light gold, suggesting a healthy oak influence, given no age statement, and the nose confirms this assessment; it’s alcoholic with strong hints of creamy vanilla, oaken tannins, and bourbon spiciness. Disoriented, I have visions of Kentucky bluegrass instead of the salty shores of Lochranza, and home of the Arran distillery in the northwest corner of the isle that shares its name. Intrigued, I quickly move to the first taste. Wow, the tongue is pelted with a peppery effervescence, and the taste buds struggle to make sense of all the commotion. Like hot chili peppers, they’re almost intolerable but you know you love them. My first reaction is hot, spicy and very likable. It’s a bear invading a bee's nest willing to take hundreds of stings to lick out the honey, but this baby needs to be tempered with a few cubes or some H2O. In doing so, the spirit mellows out to a delightful concoction of honeyed vanilla, citrus, and discernable notes of bourbon and rum spices wrapped up in a mostly dry delivery. The finish feels young and rambunctious with hints of cinnamon and white pepper. The peat influence is minimal, but in this formulation the spirit does take on a maritime quality that evokes images of the high seas and the men that braved them for the enjoyment of others. Very unique and very enjoyable; a solid 4 stars.

Original review of Arran’s, The High Seas placed here.