Tastes

Had this at a friend's birthday party over the weekend. Mostly a beer and wine crowd avoiding a spirits table populated with the usual suspects: vodka, rum, gin, and a new 1.75L of Crown Royal Black, which I was happy to break the seal on. In the glass it is a dark amber and looks like a Coca-Cola. The nose also reminds you of Coke with the sweet smell of caramel and a hint of vanilla. To taste, why not make it three for three, dousing the tongue with an avalanche of sweetness fit for a kid, and blocking out anything reminiscent of good whisky. It does, however, finish with a good dose of rye spiciness salvaging something from an otherwise disastrous pour. As repugnant as it seemed, it settled into a good sipper over the course of the afternoon, and when I went back to pour myself a third drink I was surprised to be greeted to an almost empty bottle. Shows you how much I know about people's wants and needs. The critic in me would like to rate this at 2 stars, but an afternoon of enjoyment is forcing me to give it 3. Well played, Crown Royal! :)

It’s time for me to come out of the closet. I’m sure somebody, somewhere may think of me as a suave connoisseur of fine whisky, but I’m here to tell you this is simply not the case. As a self-indulgent whisky swiller, I typically drink from a cylindrical vessel some might describe as a small ice bucket. Of course, I do have a Glencairn tasting glass that gets used for official business, but this is seldom needed. In addition, my receptacle is usually filled to the brim with ice. I know, to some, this might seem sacrilegious, but I can assure you this methodology has been born out of necessity. You see, my whisky is often consumed alongside a Cohiba Esplendido, and anyone familiar with a tightly wrapped Cuban knows they require a lot of attention to stay lit. Now, our cigar club gets together most Wednesday nights, and our gracious host believes the concept of ventilation is overrated, so seeing each other from across the table is near impossible. Given these circumstances, one’s mouth can feel like a LaFerrari revving at 9,250 rpm and air cooling just doesn’t cut it. I know Jim Murray’s Whiskey Bible rates whiskies based on 4 criteria: nose, taste, finish, & balance, but I would like to recommend a 5th category called “resiliency,” because my whisky needs to finish through a pound of ice and a Cuban smokescreen. I need a good amount of oil and water to keep my engine running smoothly and my go-to, Lagavulin 16 on ice, does this for me. After finishing the drink, I will add half a bottle of Poland Spring’s water to the spent ice and enjoy the best glass of peated ice water that money can buy and the only way I‘ve found to produce it. It’s not easy solving all the problems of the world in one short get-together, but we will continue to do our best for your family’s sake and the sake of mankind for as long as humanly possible. Oh….by the way….the Lagavulin 12yo is divine and very similar to my review of the Lagavulin 8. Of course, it comes in a little hotter with a natural cask strength ABV of 57.7%, but who’s complaining……Enjoy!

I bought this Bowmore 15 a while ago to add to my collection of sherry finished whiskies and based on their website's touting of two golds and a silver metal in 2016 (Int'l Spirits Challenge, San Francisco World Spirit's Competition, & Int'l Wine and Spirits Competition). Lagavulin DE was a big hit with me and I was hoping this Islay would strike a similar chord. Bowmore describes the color of this spirit as dark amber, which they attribute to 12 years in select American bourbon and 3 years in oloroso sherry. It looks a little synthetic; however, the nose is quite pleasant with a fruity alcoholic mixture one could inhale endlessly. A drying glencairn will produce a plush aroma of antique hardwoods. The palate was dry and a little flat, reminiscent of an oloroso sherry that only has about 1% of the sugar that would be found in a pedro ximenez. I found the spirit devoid of smokiness on both nose and palate and a little disappointing in that regard, but not surprising given sherry’s ability to sometimes negate peat influence. The finish was short and unremarkable. Overall, a fairly pleasant dram but not up to par for an Islay. I rate it at 3 stars.

This whisky was purchased based on the recommendation of my esteemed colleague, @ScotchingHard . His review clearly asserted this product to be a weapon of mass destruction for peat delivery, and second only to humans in the “evolutionary” chain of miraculous creations. Well, I’m here to neither confirm nor deny the accuracy of these claims that he, himself, describes as “hyperbolic,” but only to offer, maybe, a somewhat more reasoned perspective to the situation. It didn’t require a twist of the arm to spring for the batch 8, 59.9% offering, since Laphroaig 10 is my second favorite go-to dram behind Lagavulin 16; but while standing in line to pay I thought, “Gee, won’t this just be a more robust version of the watered-down 10 year old that I already own and like?” And, secondly, I pondered, “Isn’t my wife going to beat the shit out of me after she sees how much money I’ve blown on whisky this month?” So, with mixed feelings and after careful consideration, I took one last look at the bottle and decided to………………….just pay for the damn thing. While driving home I rationalized, “Ok, I paid 50% more for the same product with 40% more alcohol (buzz factor…check). Now, if I can get 20-30% more smoke I win.” So, with all of the aforementioned in mind, I’m here to report the cask strength, 10 year old Laphroaig to be a fantastic dram and proportionally better than its little brother; however, still not the holy grail of peat smoke I continue to seek. I rate it a solid 4.25 stars.

I bought 2 of these beasts recently from Norfolk Wine and Spirits. There may only be a half dozen bottles of Octomore 6.3 left in the entire US and Norfolk still has a couple available. At 258 ppm, this spirit continues to hold the title for the “world’s most peaty!“ Norfolk’s owner, Bikram, not only gave me a great price, but he also offered a sample prior to purchase, and my first impression of this expression was even more profound than my earlier review of the Octomore 7.1 (208ppm). On the nose, there’s a wave of meadow fragrances and maritime peatiness that’s simply more complex and unique than any other Islay whisky. You can sense the peat sitting there like a powder keg under layers of citrus and honeyed vanilla waiting for the proper chemistry to release its wrath, the key to which I have yet to find. Incredibly smooth for an ABV of 64%, the first warming mouthful explodes into a 5-star constellation without hesitation and a fitting salute to an Independence Day celebration. The nose is carried to the palate but now the young peatiness is much more satisfying and elegant than what I found in the Octo7.1; seemingly still shackled, however, to maintain a proper level of grace. The finish is the home run ball you remember from your youth that carries the fence in slow motion and with a similar level of elation. After a little experimentation, a pile of ice was necessary to help put out the fireworks and cool the temperatures of a perfect day with family and friends. Hats off to retired master distiller, Jim McEwan, for one of his swan song creations.

Bulleit Rye is composed of 95% rye and 5% malted barley with a 45% ABV and is produced for Bulleit by Midwest Grain Products of Indiana. Nosing the coated shot glass is a treat unto itself. It presents a honeyed aroma of oaken vanilla along with a dry spiciness characteristic of rye. On the palate, this combination of dryness and spiciness is curiously satisfying. Peppery cinnamon and clove, oaken tannins, and rye bread mix with just a tad of sweetness produced by the fruitiness of cherries, apples and pears. A long, smooth, dry and spicy finish convinces you that this spirit needs nothing to improve. If you’re someone that prefers the dryness of single malts over other whiskies, then you need to give this a try. A lack of heritage has me holding this whiskey back at 4 stars.

One can’t help but be intrigued by the Isle of Jura. The deer outnumber its human population (under 200) by a factor of 25 to 1. It has one main road, one hotel, and one distillery that shares its name. The Island also hosts one newly built golf course, Ardfin, which was created by a wealthy Australian hedge fund manager for his own use, and, unfortunately, will not be part of our fall golf trip that covers the Isles of Islay and Arran and the areas of Campbeltown and Glasgow. Jura Prophecy is a good name for this whisky because, frankly, I was totally mystified by this expression. Relatively unimpressed by a bottle of Jura Superstition recently drank, this whisky was a complete surprise. There’s a story behind the moniker, but I will leave that for you to investigate on its box. The distillery is currently owned by whisky producer, Whyte and Mackay, headquartered in Glasgow. This company was under the umbrella of Diageo plc for a brief period, and was sold off to Emperador Distillors and the Alliance Global Group, Inc. in 2014. Jura is another brand you will find everywhere in the UK, but rarely elsewhere for lack of good marketing and ability to grow. Had Diageo not been forced to spin them off over regulatory concerns of their market dominance, I’m sure this distillery would not have been a well kept secret for long. Despite this, production has still grown to 2.2 million liters per year, and Jura whisky is no longer sold as a filler for other blends. Jura Prophecy has been an annual release that only accounts for about 10,000 bottles of this amount. The packaging for this spirit tells you very little about the whisky itself, and their website makes no mention of this product leading one to wonder about its continuation. Prophecy is comprised of four different whiskies aged for up to 23 years and include Jura Superstition, 10 year old Origin, and 16 year old Diurachs’ Own. The latter of these three spends 14 years in American white oak bourbon and 2 years in Oloroso sherry. Now add final aging in French Limousin oak and you end up with a creation so complex it leaves the experts dumbfounded. In 2010 it received the Beverage Testing Institute’s Platinum Metal award. They described it like, “Drinking buried treasure!” The International Wine and Spirits Competition has awarded it Gold and Silvers for “Best in Class,” and it also received “Best in Show” at the 2010 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Lastly, it has received multiple Silvers from the International Spirits Challenge. When nosing this whisky for the first time it presented a sophisticated elegance I had not previously experienced. I thought it possibly the result of marrying so many disparate parts, but I also wondered about the influence of French Limousin Oak. These casks are the most expensive in the world, and along with Troncais Oak are the only two woods used to age Cognac. The Limousin oak is culled from the section of a century old tree between the heartwood and sapwood. It is then allowed to age for up to three years to oxidize any remaining bitterness, and the wood is known for its rich vanilla properties. Limousin is also more porous than Troncais and Cognac will extract additional tannins from this variety to produce a stronger and better balanced spirit. This characteristic might also account for Prophecy’s rich copper-brown appearance, since there is no color added, according to Jura’s Visitor Center Manager. Additionally, the spirit is non-chill filtered with a healthy 46% ABV. On the box Prophesy simply states, “Heavily Peated, with fresh cinnamon and spicy sea spray”; however, those in the know find this spirit to be mildly peaty and I agree. Some claim this to be a function of the second tallest stills in Scotland, which limits the ability of volatiles to escape their grasp. A drying Glencairn will produce a plush aroma of sawn hardwoods difficult to match. On the nose I find honeyed vanilla, cinnamon, sherry fruitiness, bourbon spiciness, mild peat reek, earthy peat, citrus, maritime saltiness, and other unrecognizable elements. In addition, expert tasters find over 50 other aromas. The taste is medium oily, smooth and dry with everything going on. Buried treasure is a great description because if you are looking for something in this whisky, it’s there. Peppery effervescence, spices, citrus fruits, honeyed vanilla, almonds, subtle smokiness, toasted malts, sea salt, cinnamon, dried fruits, lemon cake and countless others I could quote from the gurus. The finish is enormously satisfying with very little hint of bitterness. This is a tremendous whisky that I rate at 4.25 stars. Its only flaw is a lack of advertised peatiness. Now that the new record is set at 814 words, I promise to cut down on future reviews. Sorry Generously Paul! :)

Five years ago we played a unique links course in Wales called Nefyn & District. It was naturally formed on a cliffy promontory that extends out into the Irish Sea. There’s a spectacular view of the jagged coastline from every hole, and the day we played the winds were blowing unmercifully. By tradition everyone takes the footpath on the 12th down to the Ty Coch Inn nestled on a tiny beach below. Here, you have time for a quick pint and few laughs then it’s off to the 13th. From this tee a solid drive is required to carry a deep precipice and the ocean below to the final piece of peninsula that takes you out to a lighthouse at 14. From a tee next to the lighthouse you only have 150 yards to the par 3 green well below, but it was into a solid wall of wind coming off the ocean at 30+ mph. Balls were landing everywhere but near the green, and we were having a grand ole time. That night I had my first introduction to Penderyn, a young distillery that is Wales’ only and first in over a 100 years. Our drinks arrived and I barely had the Maderia Finish in my grasp when a fellow golfer knocked over an entire glass of Cabernet onto my tan khakis. Jumping out of my chair, it still amazes me how someone looking like the victim of attempted murder could produce that much laughter. Our accommodations were nearby, but I decided to tough it out to the taunts and teasing of eight other golfers. Despite my predicament I really enjoyed the wysgi (Welsh) that night and have revisited it several times since to see if still holds the magic from our trip. The nose on this whisky is exceedingly elegant. Red grapes, primarily Tinta Negra, make up 85% of those grown to make Madeira wine and the casks used to finish this spirit, after time spent in ex-bourbon. Bottles of this fortified vino have been known to survive up to 300 years. This gives the whisky a scent of red grape fruitiness that blends with and enhances the 46% ABV in such a way that is very inviting. This robust fruitiness carries forward and mixes with vanilla and spice to really hit the spot. If drank neat, the mouth feel has a peppery effervescence, but a bit of water or ice will tame this attribute and release the sugars making for a smooth and pleasant experience.

It was a little too early in the morning for tasting but I was eager to, at least, have a whiff of this highly recommended bourbon (adaminak:). Years ago, I started my migration into spirits with cheap bourbon & rye and eventually moved over to scotch based on personal preference. I've never tried to analyze this penchant and today was an attempt to possibly revisit the error of my ways by trying some of the good stuff, so I filled the Glencairn then poured it back into the bottle and proceeded to nose the coated glass. I will do this sometimes with the higher alcoholic Islays to get a better nosing profile, and it is not unusual to smell new sawn wood as the glass starts to dry. In this case, the table saw was running and the sawdust was flying, baby! It was mixed with the rich aroma of honeyed vanilla, caramel corn, and a spiciness unique to bourbon alone. Finally, at lunch I had my first indulgence and I was pleasantly surprised. The Small Batch was very smooth with sweetness more muted than expected, probably due to the 50% ABV, and had the same complexity of flavors that came out in the nose and many more that I'm sure could change depending on one’s mood. The finish was bold and lengthy with maybe a hint of rye. The bottle and packaging of this product are outstanding, and compared to other bourbons I‘ve drunk, it gets a rating of 4 stars.

Similar to my review of the Glenmorangie Lasanta, this spirit was another throwback to my earlier wine making days, only more so. The ruby port cask finish on this 12 year old is superb. When making Zinfandel wine, we would crush the grapes into a 50 gallon wine barrel opened on one end. This would ferment for a week during which time we would continue to push the floating skins back into the juice to extract the pigment. This juice would then be moved into a fresh barrel and combined with any remaining fluid gleaned from the pressed skins. The now empty barrel would exude the sweet aroma of red grapes and fresh alcohol to produce a divine concoction best experienced with a 10-second plunge of the head. The intensity of this experience is unforgettable and not something reproducible in a Glencairn®, but the nose on the Quinta Ruban is certainly good enough to bring back these memories. The dried glass will also produce the scent of old oak from a previously used wine barrel. At 46% ABV, it moves over the tongue with ease displaying a viscosity and burn factor that seems lighter than it should. It delivers a zesty fruitiness that comes across sweeter, and less dry than the Lasanta, but this extra boldness is befitting what was anticipated on the first sniff. The finish is smooth, pleasant and moderate in length. Overall, the fruitiness overpowers whatever else might be produced by way of American oak and malted barley, but that’s ok because it’s Easter, and this was the date when the new wine was ready for service. I would rate this whisky close to 4 stars, but its one dimensionality has it falling short. It’s a great whisky for the right mood!