Tastes

The second of my samples from last year’s Northern Border limited editions is a disappointing contrast to the excellent Gooderham. The delicate floral notes on the nose are hard to pick out amid an excess of ethanol. The palate is soft caramel flavors but they’re quickly overwhelmed by a very spicy, almost harsh finish. I appear to be in a minority here so perhaps my sample was atypical, but more likely this one just fails to live up to the promise of its age and finish.

Huge vanilla and fresh oak notes on the nose, some chalk and buttered toast. A classic Speyside palate - malty, big and rounded, with a hint of honey and cream. It feels mature - I haven’t seen the age of the Glenlossie component but I’m guessing it’s old. A long, spicy finish with no bitter notes. Top tier Compass Box.

This is the first of five limited edition Canadian whiskies released last year that I had planned to review in time for Canada Day. More than a week later, I’ve got around to only one of my samples, but it’s a cracker. The nose oscillates between the flavors of its components, one minute a rye, the next a creamy bourbon or a grain cereal. The palate starts off like a spicy rye before transitioning to creamy caramel notes. The finish wraps everything together - long, spicy, creamy, caramel. These are not shy, mellow flavors either, they pack a punch that surprises for the ABV and the age. Really good and well worth its original price of C$80. If anyone knows a more readily available bourbon that tastes like this, please point the way.

The wine cask adds aromas of Maraschino cherries and tawny port to the nose. On the palate, the light peat is complimented nicely by a long dry finish. This is my first Longrow Red and I much prefer it to the regular bottlings, which I find fine but unremarkable.

The peat on this came rolling out of the glass even before the barman had set it down. It’s a dry, meaty smoke and the taste follows suit, heavy on the peat and dark chocolate flavours. A satisfyingly thoughtful dram.

Another limited bespoke edition from Compass Box, this time for the Binny’s superstores of the Midwest. The nose starts off soft and lemony, typical of those Compass Box blends that include grain. It’s pleasant and familiar, but disappointingly suggests there won’t be much to distinguish this from the core range. Give it some time, however, and a hint of Golden Syrup or burnt sugar emerges, indicative perhaps of some sherry casks. The taste follows suit: malt and lemon with a slight undertone of treacle. The finish is short. The recipe, which I didn’t look at until after I’d tasted my sample, comprises Clynelish and Teaninich malt and Port Dundas grain, but also a blend from a “custom French oak cask” and — surprisingly — a couple of Islays. The Teaninich was matured in a sherry butt and could account for the sugary notes, though grain as old as the one used here can also play that way. I didn’t pick up anything from the Islays - Caol Ila and a dash of Ardbeg. Regardless, it’s lovely summer fare that would pair well with a sunny day by a Midwest lake.

Another yummy premium rye. To the typical minty rye profile, add flavors of caramel and butter pecan ice cream. A ridiculously long minty finish. It’s a good choice if you don’t have anything like it in your collection and can find near the bottom of its price range, but you don’t need it if you already have a teenage rye on hand.

You don’t have to be familiar with the Scottish Malt Whisky Society’s numbering system to identify this as an Ardbeg. This nine-year-old cask bottled in 2017 is true to the distillery’s DNA and in many ways plays liked Uigeadail on steroids, with a higher ABV and an age statement. The nose is sweet mesquite barbecue smoke, with a hint of pine, burnt matches and nutmeg — they could they have called this Cooking Cattle in a Forest Fire. I found it too overpowering to drink neat at its 60.2% ABV but fortunately it’s not too fussy about how much water you add: my sample went down swimmingly diluted to around 50%. Flavors of dark chocolate, dried brisket and kippers combine into a rich and slightly sweet treat. The finish is chocolate and licorice. One to sip and savor. I’d rate this 4.5/5 and fair value at its original price, but I wouldn’t pay silly money on the secondary market.

A lighter nose than the Highland cask finishes, with a hint of mint and lemon. In the mouth it's sweet, with a tamarind-like sourness to its long finish. See cask #31 for more information on this series.

The nose is more subdued than cask #1. The body is sweeter, making for a smoother finish. See cask #31 for more information on this series.