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Neisson Rhum Agricole Reserve Speciale
Distiller Score 89
The complex nose is filled with a host of aromatically serious compounds including leather, tobacco, fennel, and a bit of ketones. There is also a hint of butter and orange marmalade. The rhum enters assertively, and it's the tobacco that wins the initial flavor-war, followed closely by leather, black pepper and licorice. The mouthfeel is a bit thin, but the lack of viscosity is balanced by the foundation of spice and earth. Subsequent sips find ample phenols, with grass in the distance; the notion of Scotch whisky eventually moves to the fore. The finish reinforces the whisky notion, leaving the imbiber thinking of tobacco and saddle leather with a palate coated in dusky bitterness. While Neisson Reserve Speciale is undoubtedly a fine example of aged rhum agricole, it can be polarizing: a great sipper for those who enjoy the style, toxic to those who don't (especially at this price point).
Reviewed by Josh Miller
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Ron Centenario 20 Fundación
Distiller Score 85
The aroma has a strong caramel aroma with notes of oak, vanilla, and black pepper along with a hint of cinnamon. The first sip reveals the caramel, vanilla, and cinnamon found in the aroma along with rich cocoa and toffee. Additional sips reveal toasted almonds and soft mineral notes as the rum settles in a light sweet finish.
Reviewed by Paul Senft
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Avuá Amburana Cachaça
Distiller Score 92
The unique nose offers baking spices like cardamom, anise and allspice, with subtle vegetal notes and a light, distinctive woodiness that is noticeably different than oak. Nutmeg and hay are front and center on the herbaceous palate, with crème brûlée and citrus peel on the back end. The finish is warm and earthy, with more anise, spice and wood notes.
Reviewed by Daniel Djang
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Clairin Sajous Rhum Blanc
Distiller Score 95
Simply uncorking the bottle releases a flood of aromas from the brilliantly silver liquid. The nose is overwhelmingly grassy at first, then turns to black olives with a hint of leather. At 107 proof, the entry hits hard in a tsunami of flavor. Mid-palate it turns to berries and spices, fighting with the ethanol burn. The finish is long and ends with a delightful spiciness. A beast of a rum, this isn’t for the timid. Fans of high-proof agricole should snap this up by any means necessary.
Reviewed by Matt Pietrek
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Foursquare 2004
Distiller Score 96
The aroma of the rum delivers notes of alcohol and dark vanilla, fresh-cut apples, pears, charred oak, and toasted nuts. The first sip of the rum delivers a punch of ethanol in a swirl of vanilla, and oak tannins. This conditions the tongue of the imbiber to enjoy the complexity of the rum. Additional sips reveal notes of cocoa, more fresh-cut apples with a hint of pears, leather, raisins, dried apricots, pepper and dark toffee. As the rum begins to fade notes of toasted walnuts and tobacco leaf linger and balance in a nice long finish.
Reviewed by Paul Senft
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Fijian Rum 9 Year (Berry Bros. & Rudd)
Distiller Score 88
There's a savory, earthy nose on this rum that is reminiscent of aged leather and mild tobacco. The weight on the palate is surprisingly light considering the aggressive and masculine flavors. There's burnt wood, steak sauce, and sautéed mushrooms all showing up. The catch is how everything stays in balance with a subtle red berry note that carries through the long finish.
Reviewed by Paul Belbusti
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Renegade Rum Pre-Cask Single Farm Origin: Nursery (Upper La Calome/Yellow Lady)
Distiller Score 90
There's some pot still funk on the nose, and a big dose of tropical fruit esters, including mangoes, papayas, and overripe bananas. The palate is highly mineral, with wet stones and clay-rich soil, along with dark chocolate, berries, lemon zest, and fresh cane juice. The finish is spicy, grassy, and herbal, with black and white pepper, cassia bark, cedar, and coriander.
Reviewed by Jake Emen
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Bristol Port Morant Demerara Rum 1999
Distiller Score 94
If you crave deep, full of character, heavily-bodied rum, this is for you – an absolute monster, despite being “only” 92 proof. The nose hunts you down well before lifting your glass, bringing to mind leather, tobacco, and oil, in the best possible way. Those flavors continue on the palate. Although in no way sweet, its time in port barrels lends a pleasing roundness without verging into “sherry bomb” territory. There’s a touch of burn, and the finish lasts seemingly forever. Doing anything with this rum beyond savoring it neat would be a crime against the spirits world.
Reviewed by Matt Pietrek
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Dictador 20 Year Solera System Rum
Distiller Score 86
Although a little hot, there is a lovely density to the nose. It exudes fresh-cut sugarcane, roasted carrots, amontillado sherry and a mild and well-integrated note of chlorine. The palate feels a little lighter but not too much, with fresh apple, toffee, coffee and fruit cake.
Reviewed by Omari Wheat
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Revelation Rum
Distiller Score 90
There tons of complexity on the nose: charred wood, demerara sugar, citrus, and a faint vegetal note. The initial palate is hot but the burn dissipates quickly to reveal citrus and dried fruits along with some barrel and baking spice The weight on the palate is lithe and leads to a long finish of vanilla, milk chocolate, plum, passionfruit, and guava. This almost brandy-like rum begs to be paired with a fine cigar.
Reviewed by Paul Belbusti
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Goslings Family Reserve Old Rum
Distiller Score 91
On the nose, the Family Reserve offers molasses, tobacco, oak and hints of orange peel. The velvety palate continues with molasses and oak, as well as holiday spice notes of cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg. The warm finish is long and dry, with further smoky and spicy notes of oak and tobacco, cloves and dried fruit.
Reviewed by Daniel Djang
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Don Pancho Origenes 18 Year
Distiller Score 87
The aromas begin with clean honey, excellently extracted tea, soft/ripe tree fruit and interesting spices playing in the background. The palate entry is sweet and supple starting at vanilla, building to brown spice, caramel, and roasted nuts. The finish is long, rich and layered. The sumptuous depth and inviting complexly make this a lovely rum.
Reviewed by Forrest Cokely