Rating: 16/23
This one is a bit of a unicorn, which really makes me scratch my head. I get that 1792 has gained popularity recently and that 12 years is a relatively old age statement for bourbon these days, but surely a 12 year old bourbon shouldn't be that hard to find (unless it's Willett).
N: This is nice. There's a rich toasted marshmallow quality that brings in vanilla and occasional notes of caramel, which leads into a really mellow but subtly nuanced woodiness. It's toasty, yet the grain shows through.
I feel like I'm not describing just how interesting this is. The notes are subtle, but they're intricate and nicely balanced. I'm very impressed by this nose.
P: Woody with some surprising spice burn. It's drier than I'd expected, but there is some nice richness in the toasted-marshmallow-vanilla-faint-banana range. The spices have an odd amount of chili flavor to them, with much more subdued baking spice. Plenty of dry wood and vanillin. It reminds me of I. W. Harper 15 in that regard.
I'm getting some nice maturity here, but that chili spice does seem off and I'm not getting that nuance I got on the nose. I wanted a sweeter, mellower dram than this. I do get some woody depth, which I definitely did want, but it gives me an impression of whiskeys of different ages rather than one decently old dram.
F: Yeah, the woodiness lingers, but not boldly. I do get some herbaceousness coming off of the cili, but all of that dimension is toned down a bit. I get some lingering burn and some faint baking spices (fresh ginger, clove, maybe cinnamon), but it's all very blurred together. There are some dry wood notes at times, but not a lot. It's quite restrained for a 12 year.
- Conclusion -
I wanted to love this, but I'm only moderately impressed.
Russell's Reserve 10 (15-16/23) has more going on, but it tastes less mature and coherent than this does.
As a sanity check, 1792 Sweet Wheat (15/23) tastes younger and less nuanced than this. I actually get some cotton candy out of the Sweet Wheat now, so I'm thinking that this is substantially better.
My single barrel bottle of Resilient 15 (18/23) has a bolder wood decadence that is just so nice to sip, but doesn't achieve the nuance that this has. The Resilient approached polished wood while this is more subtle. That said, the Resilient has a fair amount of minerality, which doesn't show up side by side with this, so this may be a bit on the light side.Yeah, I'm getting more minerality here now.
1792 Full Proof (19/23 - though I think it's on the low side there) is more rich, full, and decadent than this is. It's sweeter with less wood, but it does have a bit of nice variation going on. It does emphasize its minerals a bit more as well.
At the end of the day, this is great. It's not blowing my mind like a unicorn should, but there's a lot to appreciate here. There's no way that this is below a 16, but I don't think that it is as high as a 19. Well, I can imagine a 19, but I'm skeptical. I'm very much in the 17 to 18 range right now, though I'm leaning toward an 18. It's a tough call.
Coming back to this, I don't see it being an 18. It's more of a 15 to 17. Eh, probably not a 15. It's a 16 or 17.
Pulling out my last drops of I.W. Harper 15 (14/23), I do taste a lot of similarity. The I.W. Harper is richer, but also more bitter and less complex. I'm not that impressed by how much better this is though, so I'm going to land on a 16 here.
I'd been looking to try this for a while but hadn't been able to track it down, so a big thanks to
@Milliardo for sharing!