Nose: Lime, meyer lemon, orange oil. Sweet pineapple. Iodine and brine - you really get a sense for 19 years of sea spray. Black pepper, wintergreen, fennel. Peat is absolutely evident, with a little ash still floating around. For as mature as this is, it retains plenty of brightness and vibrance and doesn't come off as "heavy" in the nose, though it's still rich. Pine resin, grilled meats and vegetables. Herbs - thyme, bay leaf, basil. Camphor. Subtle nuttiness, like parmesan cheese, with a hint of musty funk/butyric acid-like quality. Fresh cut grass, seaweed. Cumin, smoked paprika, ground coriander. Leather and wet hay. This is close to what I imagine when I close my eyes and think about what an ideal Ardbeg nose might be.
Palate: Peat and ash alongside iodine and brine, followed by mint, orange, and cream. The interplay between vanilla and brown sugar from the bourbon cask and the dark fruits and nuttiness of the sherry cask is excellent. Oak character is present, with plenty of tannin in taste and texture, but not overbearing. Well-worn leather. The bright lime and lemon character is still here and keeps things vibrant and dynamic without taking away from the denser, richer characteristics. Thyme and basil, along with grilled fennel. Beautifully cohesive. White pepper, ground chipotle. Nutmeg and clove. Smoked meats and cheeses. Bitter chocolate. I'm imagining walking into a classic library/office with dusty books, big leather chairs, oak shelves, and cigar/pipe smoke in the air. THis is excellently balanced. Medium mouthfeel.
Finish: A rush of brine, peat, ash, wintergreen. Lime zest and cream come forward, with a little seaweed and fresh cut grass. Things slowly shift into hot chocolate made using milk, complete with marshmallows, and extra vanilla. Slowly turns into mexican hot chocolate and espresso. The lime comes back and things fade out on chili chocolate, lime, peat, subtle ash, mint... there's a lot going on here. Quite a long, complex finish.
Other notes: This is a beautiful expression. Many reviewers who know much better than I do have mentioned that this retains a lot of vibrance for being so heavily aged, and they'e totally right. Instead, the age presents both in the cohesive flavors and smells, as well as in the larger than usual cask impact, with the bourbon and sherry coming through more than usual. There's more just sheer oak presence, as well. You could spend hours exploring this one - adding water helps bring out some beautiful floral characteristics, with sweet roses and orange blossoms. Candied apples, too. If you get a chance to have a glass of this and aren't sure, do it. If you have a chance to grab a bottle and aren't sure, do it. The price tag might be offputting, but if you're a fan of Islay and well-aged spirit, this won't disappoint. I hope I'm lucky enough to always have a bottle of Traigh Bhan in my cabinet, and this year's expression illustrates exactly why.