“Bunnahabhain & Friends” tasting at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 15 June 2022. Whisky #3
Nose: Substantial aromas of sherry, raisin, nuts, dried mixed citrus peel, plums, figs and cinnamon. An elegant and mature oak fragrance as of old waxed oak furniture fills in all the spare corners and there is a very faint waft of coal or wood smoke. I noted more sandalwood and lighter fruit aromas than in previous batches. A few drops of water do no harm but are not required.
Palate: The arrival is soft and measured but builds to become a commanding presence with very fine texture. Mixed stewed fruit, some well-contained baking spices, chocolate, salted caramel and tobacco. The spice notes become a little warmer over time and black pepper and hot cinnamon are apparent, but the profile never loses balance. The texture becomes chewier as tannins come into play but once again balance is maintained by the presence of some foundation dark sugar.
Finish: Medium/long. Dark fruit, leather and chocolate are the lingering tastes.
One of my favourite whiskies. I loved it immediately on first tasting it many years ago, but it wasn’t until
@Soba45 sent me a tasting sample in 2020 that I became reacquainted with it and remembered what I had been missing.
That particular sample (probably from a 2017 or 2018 batch) was arguably the best the whisky has ever been, and I enthusiastically rated it at 5 stars here [note: my review of it appears below]. This current tasting is of a late 2021 batch and although it is still impressive, in comparison to batches from a few years ago it is a little lacking in refinement.
Nevertheless, for me it was still the second-best thing we tasted on the night, far eclipsing the other three Bunnahabhains on the card. All those (the 2022 Feis Ile Abhainn Araig, the 12 year old cask strength and the Aonadh 10 year old) exhibited obvious youthful harshness and tasting this superior whisky was a blessed relief.
The price is unfortunately starting to climb but it remains a must-taste dram for any enthusiast.
“Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)
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Original Distiller reviewed, posted April 24, 2020
Nose: A welcoming, enfolding cloak of sherry and oak wraps around you as you deeply inhale the aromas of a faultless Christmas cake. Dark malt, dried fruit and sweet roasted nuts (hazelnut and toasted almond) with rich leather aromas. There's a sly note of lemon zest in the background as well as a reminiscence of smoke and waxed furniture, but it's not like a typical "smoky" whisky. This is like sitting in front of a roaring fire on a cold night where 99% of the fumes are combusting and just a skerrick of smoke escapes to your nostrils. As it continues to unfold minty notes and caramel toffee emerge. [The dry-glass aroma is fruitcake with a hint of charcoal].
Palate: The taste of liquified oloroso sherry cask, chocolate toffee, sweet tobacco and fruitcake. Deep, resounding and malty with a texture that is creamy, chewy and perfectly balanced between sweetness and astringincy. It arrives dry and spicy but sweet fruity notes, vanilla and warming muscovado sugar instantly spring forth to provide equilibrium. There is the tiniest hint of salt and it coats the mouth with ecstasy.
Finish: Very long. The warming, dense sweet malt character subsides slowly into a sweet oak aftertaste.
This is a magnificently expressive whisky. It's some years since I last tasted it - why have I waited so long? The progression from the malty arrival through to the oaky aftertaste is a joy every time. The nose is similar to old Glenfarclas but the palate is less austere. This whisky fairly flings itself out of the glencairn into your face with joie de vivre.
There's very little more to say. It really is a desert island dram and you need to taste this whisky at least once on your journey (and you may well decide not to continue but just settle down with an 18 year old Bunny - ahem). It's one of those excellent drams that always leaves you thinking "why do I bother drinking anything else?".
Many thanks to @Soba45 for sending me the tasting sample, and reminding me of what I'd forgotten. I've just this moment tried to order a bottle but alas, there is none in the country. Please Bunnahabhain, send us another allocation.
"Outstanding" : 90/100 (5 stars) [AUD$250 in 2020]
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