Castarède Armagnac XO 20 Ans d'Âge

Nose: very intense, sweet, dried figs, caramel, vanilla, fresh apples. Mouth: toffee, apples, dried fruits, apricots and peaches, oak. Finish: very long, tannins, tobaco, pepper.

Nose: Deep raisin and oak. Sweet, savory spices - vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon and orange peel with a tiny hint of mint. Stewed figs and dates - a touch of rancio. A nose that would not be out of place in a bourbon - in fact this has many points in common with the aroma of Blantons. Palate: A forceful, tannic arrival that bursts into hot spicy flavours as it quickly enters the development. After an almost confronting moment as the tannins build, it suddenly blossoms into a multi-layered palate of spices, oak tannin, resin, grape must, rancio, walnut, olive, ginger, plum, date, nutmeg and fig - all simmering in a pool of thick, rich Greek coffee. Very good texture - full and rich, but dry. Finish: Long. The highly expressive palate slowly winds down into a spicy coffee and tobacco aftertaste, with an intriguing spiced PX sherry touch. Created by the oldest production house in Gascony and comprising eaux-de-vie of at least 20 years of age, this is a powerful, bold armagnac that also has finesse and grace. The palate takes me by surprise every time with its no-holds-barred tannic power, but it never fails to delight with hidden dark fruit and oak nuances. It also continues to unfold in the glass throughout the tasting - this is one to savour and ponder. Very much a digestif to take either alone or with full-bodied soft cheese. I suspect it would also pair beautifully with sweet black coffee. Although (like all cognac and armagnac) it makes me crave a cigar I wouldn't take one with this spirit - the two powerful sensory experiences would compete. A great armagnac, but not one I'd recommend to novices - in the world of whisky this would be the equivalent of Ardbeg Uigeadail. "Excellent" : 4.5 stars