cascode
Reviewed
September 14, 2020 (edited November 17, 2021)
Nose: Spiced orange (not unlike an orange pomander ball), espresso coffee, pleasantly deep oak notes reminiscent of polished wooden dressers. Over time in the glass it gains body and as the bottle level drops and the whisky oxidizes the nose gains further woody notes and a definite sherry presence. There is an aromatic almost incense or perfume-like note that took me ages to pin down. It's freshly grated nutmeg. Adding water emphasizes the orange and nutmeg notes considerably. [Weirdly, on the dry glass I smell oil-paint. That smell of linseed oil you get when walking into a gallery that is showing recently finished artworks. There is an accompanying note of coffee, like the cold dregs of a cappuccino].
Palate: Spicy dark fruits, espresso and ginger lead the way on the arrival. The development sees a definite dark chocolate note emerge together with some cinnamon, and cocoa persists through into the aftertaste. There are also grassy and herbal flavours - mint, licorice and mustard - and the profile is woody and grassy throughout. The texture is good, with a light creaminess. There is a sweet foundation to the palate that is hidden on first tasting, but with each subsequent sip you sense it more. Adding water softens the overall presentation, but does not markedly change the character.
Finish: Medium. Ginger, a hint of vanilla, unsweetened cocoa, and mild oak tannin. The aftertaste is dry with little waves of mocha and oak.
A pleasant nose that only fails for me in that it seems somehow "over-polished". I prefer my whisky to be a little less engineered, but this is still very good. The palate has complexity and an interesting balance between spicy/sweet and bitter/dry. It is equal to the nose but again seems calculated and does not hold my attention or excite me.
I certainly don't hate this whisky, on the contrary it is good, but I did feel a bit underwhelmed by it on first tasting and time has not changed that impression. I can't gather the enthusiasm to describe it as "very good" and the official rating here seems a little inflated to me.
In the final analysis this is a good, but overpriced and over-hyped highland whisky. I paid AUS$180 for this a few years ago but now it is up to $240, and even at the original price I can think of many expressions I would prefer to buy. I won't be replacing this bottle when it is finished.
"Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)
180.0
AUD
per
Bottle