With this 12 year, I've now owned all 4 of the standard Lag bottlings (though I suppose it's technically a special release). This 2017 had some of the best marks in this line, so I figured it would be worth the high cost. Lagavulin has yet to let me down, so naturally, my expectations are high.
Nose: Quite a bit going on here. The first thing that jumps out at me are the big citrus notes. Heavy lemon and maybe even a slight grapefruit. Candied orange; more sweet than citrusy. Behind that are some sweeter notes: honey, vanilla, coconut, and honeydew. Apricot and toffee as well. Agave. It's very peaty though the smoke is more of a background note. The Islay characteristics come instead in the form of sea salt and iodine. Almond and heavily salted cashew. Some light cinnamon, no doubt a product of the high ABV, but far less than you'd expect of a 56.5% whisky. Other than that, there is not a trace of alcohol detectable under the layers of complex aromas. Superb.
Palate: Creamy but also oily. Here, the classic Lagavulin campfire smoke makes itself available. The big citrus notes are still present, though it's mostly lemon now. There is also quite a bit of black pepper spice. Iodine, ash, and sea salt are still present, as well as vanilla, custard, toffee, and honey. Red apple and raisin. Rich dark chocolate is prominent, one of my favorite features of Lagavulin. Behind that is a bit of mint chocolate. Salted caramel comes on strong at the back end of the palate. It drinks as though it's a far lower proof yet maintains the cask strength character throughout. Phenomenal.
Finish: Long. Initially, I'm hit with smoked salmon, one of the most unique and satisfying notes I've ever gotten. After that, it's back to dark and mint chocolate and salted caramel with a couple slices of Granny Smith apple. Dinner and dessert. Cinnamon and black pepper take over once the sweetness fade, carrying the finish off into sunset. It just doesn't get any better.
No plot twists here. This is an easy 5 stars. Having already had the 16 and 8, I must say that this one fits perfectly in between the two. The 12 captures the brash youth of the 8 and adds some of the refined characteristics one can only achieve with age. Heavy citrus, smoke, and spice meet dessert rich confectionery sweetness and dark fruit. Throw in the fact that its cask strength and a nice of piece of smoked salmon, and this is quite easily one of the best whiskies I have ever had. Even at $130, I'd do it again, and I think you should, too.
130.0
USD
per
Bottle