Laphroaig Lore

The peaty taste reminds me of hiking in the Scottish moors

Laphroaig tasting evening, Sydney, 26 September 18. Whiskey #5. Nose: The immediate aroma is floral and fragrant, a honeyed vanilla and musk scent. A full and commanding ashy-smoke note arrives hot on its heels, and you’ve barely registered this before a zephyr of sea breeze blows in, brisk with seaweed, salt, and the smell of a sun-bleached fishing-pier. The nose continues to unfold in layers as the sweet fragrance returns in the guise of orange chocolate and almond fudge. A tiny touch of clove is noticeable behind this, and then the smoke gains prominence again, this time as a peaty plasticine aroma. Palate: A full and intense arrival with billows of smoke and briny iodine. Some spicy pepper or chilli, star anise, honey and vanilla appear quickly as it develops. The texture is oily but balanced by the briny tang. There is a shift in focus as you move from nosing to tasting with the smoky character continuing to bloom and dominate the profile while the wine influence becomes less noticeable. Eventually strong tarry phenols are completely in command. Finish: Medium/long. Drying and smoky from the palate at first, then fading out into sweet iodine-tinged citrus and caramel. The initial fragrant waft on the nose suggests that there are some very fresh PX sherry casks in this whisky’s background (and maybe even a sneaky red wine barrel). However it’s the assured smoky character that really defines Lore, with the soft fruity-floral tones and briny maritime notes being there to create a counterpoint. Lore is a melding of many classic Laphroaig elements, both in the nose and palate, and it backs up this mosaic of tone and hue with depth. It’s an interesting whisky that continues to unfold over time and rewards patient tasting. It has great balance, but of a distinctive kind. Some whiskies have manifold aromas and flavours that are integrated and evenly spread. Lore, however, is like a set of scales with one pan holding lots of fruity, briny and fragrant ingredients while the other is loaded with pure peat-reek – but the two sides are in equilibrium. It has a very complete and satisfying feel about it that is the direct result of this balanced tension between the dominant smoke and all the other components. Don’t bother adding water, this is just fine neat. “Very Good” : 86/100 (4 stars)