Richard-Davenport
Compass Box Hedonism
Blended Grain — Scotland
Reviewed
June 28, 2022 (edited May 29, 2023)
I purchased this bottle a couple years ago based in part on the Distiller rating--97 points from Stephanie Moreno (who I've already learned isn't too correlated with my palate--which is not a knock on her--see my review on Glendronach Allardice 18 Year). Compass Box and John Glaser are iconoclasts in the scotch industry, and do have a quality ethos (this bottle has no added coloring and is non-chill filtered; reports suggest the various distillates are aged from 15 to more than 20 years). I tried Hedonism a couple times immediately after purchasing and recall being unimpressed, although I didn't write a specific note.
That opinion is essentially unchanged. Dried hay color. Hedonism is aged in bourbon barrels, and oaky vanilla is present on the nose (the label screams "RICH * VANILLA * ALLURING" in case savorers couldn't notice), as well as Cheerios cereal and milk chocolate. The palate does have a viscous, glycerin-like quality (again, label: "RICH") with more oak and a touch of white pepper (normal scotch-like 43% ABV), finishing with some light, slightly bitter woody tannins.
Distiller is massively off-base with this score. The defining characteristics are the label's "RICH" and "VANILLA" minus the "ALLURING." It's not bad; it's just boring. Scotch has such a wide array of styles, smells, and flavors; and there are dozens of them that are far less monolithic, much more complex, and objectively better than this one. And it gets worse when one considers value: prices today range from $100-130 (I paid about $90 as I recall). That's awfully expensive for rich vanilla with a pedestrian ABV.
N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.
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