HIGH-TEST RYE SHOWDOWN Willet 4-Year Straight Rye Whiskey, Rare Release Michter’s US*1 Barrel Strength Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey Pikesville Straight Rye Whiskey Recent notes from @angstrom on Willet 4-Year Straight Rye Whiskey and @jdriip on Pikesville Straight Rye Whiskey prompted me to have a showdown between these two high-test ryes, as well as Michter’s US*1 Barrel Strength Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey. It’s been some time since I’ve had each of them, but I know that I’ve loved all three. I created this showdown not only to see if my previous (unnoted) verdicts were correct, but also to see how well they would stand up beside each other. Expected rye spiciness on the palate presents as light white pepper before finishing with vanilla. Willet The Willet carries a four-year age statement and is bottled at 119 proof. Lightest of the three in color, although the differences are not stark; shows as deep tawny burnt orange. Unmistakable rye nose—by far the most “rye-like” of the three—with freshly crushed green pine needles, orange oil, milk chocolate, cinnamon apple pie, faint banana (not as much as I recalled), basil, and spearmint. Lightest and fruitiest of the three. The ethanol is there, but well integrated at 119 proof. Full mouthfeel, where the heat becomes apparent before finishing with a nice pull of vanilla, spicy pepper, ethanol, and the lingering cool spearmint. The heat is more noticeable on the finish—not completely unexpected given the proof. The back-end spiciness and heat is more than I recall, and puts the entire experience a little out of balance (this speaking from the perspective who loves high-octane whisk(e)y neat). Very good. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Michter’s This bottle doesn’t carry an age statement. It is a limited release, and bottled at 112.6 proof. The deep mahogany color is the darkest of the three. Not as “obviously rye” on the nose as the Willet: more akin to a high-rye bourbon in comparison, with vanilla, pomander, caramel, some grilled peaches, pound cake, and sassafras. The rye is there, but more in the background. Smooth, mouthcoating palate adds cherry pipe tobacco. Long finish, with white pepper similar to, but not as overpowering as, the Willet, with lingering orange creamsicle. This is only my second bottle; I finished the first one a couple of years ago, and have been saving this one, but opened it for this tasting. And I’m glad I did. 4.75 “and a half” on the Distiller scale. The only thing holding it back from a perfect 5.0 for me is the thought that a longer quantified age statement may make it even more otherworldly. The pervasive depth, breadth, complexity, and smoothness is in the same league as the George T. Stagg and William Larue Weller that I had and reviewed just last night (8/16/2002). When this limited release is released, run, don’t walk, to get a bottle. Pikesville Pikesville is a Heaven Hill product, is “at least” six years old, and is bottled at 110 proof. Clear orange mahogany color is the second darkest of the three. Recognizable rye nose, between the Willet and Michter’s in terms of prevalence. Nose of milk chocolate, espresso, green pine needles, mincemeat pie, fruity cobbler crust, and some herbal sage and grassy notes. Most viscous mouthfeel of the three, with more sweet mince pie, with a not-dissimilar-to-the-others white pepper spiciness and vanilla on the finish. Very good; I’ll always have a bottle. But it lacks the complexity of the Michter’s. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. These are all very good high-test rye whiskies. I’d be happy to drink any of them (and I was this evening). The Michter’s is the clear winner for me, followed by the Pikesville and the Willet. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in Glencairn glasses.