Tastes

Nose: Spirity, sweaty, nutty, autumn leaves, Darjeeling tea, dried apple, herbal potpourri, humus, damp moss and sweetly decaying tree-stumps. Sherry and very light peat smoke. Primarily a grassy, herbaceous nose with sweet overtones. Palate: Sweet malt and black tea in the arrival with a definite smoke presence (more obvious than on the nose). The peat smoke builds a little in the development with salted plums, ginger chunks in syrup, dried dates and lemon preserved in olive oil. There is a progression to dryness through the palate with leathery brine notes appearing but sweetness remains apparent throughout. The texture is full and creamy. Finish: Medium. The palate is drying, but also has sweet smoky malt notes and grassy cereal. This is the 3rd of a flight of 6 Highland Park whiskies that I’m tasting today, and it is the first to show a definite sherry influence. However this is no sherry-monster but rather presents a crisp leafy-walnut skin character and indicates either second-fill or very lightly seasoned first-fill oloroso casks. In many ways it is the complimentary whisky to the Spirit of the Bear expression, with a sherry casking focus rather than ex-bourbon. The nose develops given some time in the glass as its initial shyness is overcome. The palate is good, it lacks a little in complexity and is a touch on the watery side but not enough to spoil the experience – it’s dry finish saves it. However this is obviously quite young whisky. I seldom say this but here is one whisky I would like to see at slightly higher proof. I think this young lightly-sherried profile would be very good indeed at 48% where the thin, almost watery body would be filled-out by a more intense presence. This is the least impressive of the three drams I’ve had so far today, but we’re still talking low 80s for the score, which isn’t shabby at all, and at the asking price it’s good value. Tasted from a 30ml sample. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Nose: Sweet orange, vanilla, sherry, apricot and a subtle hint of smoke in the background. There are touches of cinnamon, nutmeg and honeysuckle and as it rests and gains body, soft wood and leather notes arise. A lovely Highland Park nose with a fleeting smoke presence and a simple but refined character. Palate: Sweet and gentle arrival centred on honey-drizzled slices of grilled orange, apricot and peach. It gains excellent spice tones as it develops with sweeter and heavier flavours emerging - caramel, grape jelly, red berry jam and mild ginger chunks in syrup. The texture is buttery, slightly oily and very satisfying. Finish: Medium/long. Warm and gradually transitioning to a drier character with delicate oak, smoke and salt notes. There is a subtle chocolate aftertaste that lingers. A mild-mannered dram, very pleasant to drink but lacking a little in complexity when compared to the 15 year old from a few years back (in the pre-Viking livery bottles). The sherry presence is muted here while the bourbon cask influence is particularly apparent. This has good body and texture, and its maturity shows through in the well integrated profile. It has a completeness and good balance, but I can’t escape the feeling that overall it presents more like a 12 year old whisky than a 16 year old. This is the 2nd of 6 Highland Parks I’m tasting today, and in comparison to the “Spirit of the Bear” I tasted first this has more depth and authority, but is otherwise surprisingly similar. It’s certainly a better whisky, but is it worth paying 50% more? Let’s just say I immediately bought a bottle of Spirit of the Bear, but as good as it is I’m probably not ordering this one. Tasted from a 30ml sample. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)

Nose: Lightly fragrant with heather honey, citrus (grapefruit), a hint of vanilla and restrained coastal minerality being the dominant aromas. It’s a very restful and demure nose with a fresh character and it’s instantly recognisable as Highland Park. The tiniest wisp of smoke is detected but it’s barely (ha, ha) noticeable. Over time as it rests the nose develops in the glass, gaining depth and texture. Palate: Sweet, soft, mild malt arrival with citrus overtones. The development shows delicate white pepper and ginger, growing subtle smokiness and crisp acidity, but it remains gentle and highly approachable at all times. The texture is pleasant and just a little creamy. Finish: Medium. The soft, sweet palate subsides into a drier, herbal aftertaste with a little bitter orange and a pinch of salt. A delicious and eminently approachable everyday dram, this would be a very good session whisky. It shows its youth but it is not callow or under-matured in any way and the balance between distillate and cask influence is perfect. I can imagine people criticizing this for only being 40% and a NAS but those are not issues for me. It’s a friendly malt that would be appreciated by novices and enthusiasts alike and I finished my dram without even thinking to add any water. The box bears the words “smoky and bold”. No, it’s not, and I can’t imagine why they decided to label it that way. Maybe because it was a TRE release and therefore aimed at non enthusiasts? Who knows, but it gives a misleading impression. This should have been described as “light and sweetly smoky”. The smoke note does, however, grow with repeated sips. This is the first of a flight of six Highland Park whiskies that I’m tasting today. It’s been a while since I tried anything from this distillery so time to remedy that. Tasted from a 30ml sample, and I enjoyed it so much I just ordered a bottle. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

This bottle from lot L21-6121 076 Nose: Grass clippings, wet hay, asparagus, lemongrass, grapefruit, kiwifruit, mustard, freshly sawn pinewood. If allowed to rest in a covered glass for some time it develops notes of honeysuckle and pear. Water softens the nose and creates a sweeter smelling profile. Palate: The arrival is full of herbal/vegetal notes with some mild bitter spiciness, but it is unusual in character (see below). Kiwifruit, white grape juice, dandelion root, cardboard and oatmeal in the development. The mouth-feel is pleasant, slightly oily and with good weight. Finish: Medium. Sharp citrus, then fading to grassy astringency. A dash of water softens the palate and finish, and I thought this whisky was much better after diluting it. An unusual profile that is herbaceous in the broadest sense, but that term does not adequately describe this whisky. It is not herbal in the same manner as most other whiskies that are so described, and perhaps “soft green plant-like” is a more accurate (if clumsy) descriptor. On the nose I get sharp, citric and spicy herbal tones such as lemongrass and mustard, but the palate is where it becomes very unusual. I tasted rocket (you might know it as rucola or arugula), mustard cress, dill weed, yellow dock and purslane – all pungent, sharp tasting green plants. There was a presence of sulphurous boiled vegetables as well - cabbage, brussels sprouts and asparagus. These unusual vegetal notes contrast with the citric facets of the whisky and the whole is set against some very fresh smelling wood with a resinous quality. I did notice a significant change as the level in the bottle decreased. The whisky became softer with oxidisation, developed more honey notes in both nose and palate, and the brighter vegetative qualities diminished. It is an interesting whisky, but as you have probably gathered highly individual and I think it would either appeal or repulse depending on the aroma and flavour associations it calls to your mind. It is certainly thought-provoking and drew me back for repeated nosing and tastes in attempt to unravel it, but it wasn’t until it had been open for several weeks and the level was down past half way that I began to really enjoy it. Initially I would have rated it as 80/100 at most but with time it achieved a better score. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Nose: Toffee, cornflakes, freshly sawn wood, vanilla, green apples, a suggestion of maritime aromas, some honey and flinty mineral notes. It’s a young cereal-focused profile that is dominated by young casks (but admittedly good ones). It's a bit tight when neat but adding water eases the nose and releases barley sugar, more honey and some light floral aromas while muting the mineral notes. The nose recomposes very well after dilution, gaining an oily quality. Palate: Spicy entry with hot ginger, hot cinnamon and chilli. The development is thin and sharp with bright gristy cereal, a touch of coconut and tart citrus flavours. There is a little salt and the texture is watery, almost like dilute seawater, but also oddly waxy. Adding water improves the palate enormously. The hot flavours are gentled, the cereal turns to sweet malt and the tart citrus turns to semi-sweet orange. The mouthfeel is very much improved, losing the thin quality and gaining a creamy depth. Finish: Short. Drying, mineralic, metallic (coppery) and slightly sour in the aftertaste. However, once again water works miracles, almost banishing the hard notes (by balancing them with sweetness) and adding length. A little of the familiar Tobermory milk chocolate is even detected on the aftertaste now. This bears some resemblance to the old 10 year expression but whereas that whisky succeeded by virtue of its delicate and slightly maritime character this is rougher, less attractive and does not bloom until diluted. As a neat dram the nose is pleasant, and the standout feature, but the palate has some odd qualities. However water transforms this whisky from an ugly ducking into a graceful swan. If you have only tasted it neat and previously dismissed it then I'd urge you go back and try it again with a generous dash of water. You will be surprised how much it is improved. I was about to rate this at 75 until I added water ... doing so takes it up to 82. Tasted from a 30ml sample that was taken from a 2019 bottling. “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)

Nose: A carton of Cadbury’s Old Gold Fruit ‘n Nut Dark Chocolate bars (you have to be an Aussie – sorry) that have been stored in an ex-sherry barrel for about 10 years. I can’t explain it better. Raisins, dried figs, fortified wine, marzipan, leather sports car seats (the interior of a 1960's Jaguar), pipe tobacco, orange zest, mint. A huge nose with a profile that brings armagnac to mind. Water highlights some orange notes but mutes the whole performance. There is an unmistakable aroma of sulphur and it’s right on the cusp between fragrant, almost like sandalwood, and stinky rubber. Water softens it pleasantly. Palate: Big, sweet arrival full of chocolate and Christmas cake. In the development it seems to turn astringent for a moment but it’s just the tannins from big sherry casks kicking in. The apparent bitterness passes immediately leaving a firm, grippy oak foundation with espresso, muscat, mint, fennel and cointreau notes. The texture is excellent, this whisky has been composed to be correct when neat but it will take water gracefully. As with the nose there is a definite sulphur note on the palate but it’s just below the threshold of annoyance. Finish: Medium. The palate fades to a sweet finale with raspberry jam, liquorice, orange marmalade and chocolate. Formidable. Such a huge whisky but so very well presented. The abv is perfect and an object lesson in why the idea that every whisky should be bottled at 46% or more just "because" is vacuous. This one is beautifully balanced, mouthwatering, very moreish and requires no dilution – it is right just as it is but if you really want to reduce it you can do so without making it limp. Richard Paterson is a master of the art of blending. Dalmore seems to cop a lot of flak from some quarters for reasons that seem disingenuous to me. It’s an old-fashioned style of sherry monster of a particular type, and this is a very good example at a decent price. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)

Nose: Engine oil, sulphur (good sulphur), oily malt and herbal tea in the initial nosing, together with a definite alcohol “nip” and a briny, maritime aroma. The port influence is very restrained, even shy, and at first presents more like grape juice or rose-hip tea in the background. Over time the fortified wine influence builds but never to the point of unbalancing the nose. Adding water tends to homogenize the nose at first and although it remains very pleasant, and does recover with time, it loses just a little character in the process. Palate: The arrival is sweet for a second before turning astringent and oaky with ginger, sweet dark berries and big malty flavours. The development brings dried citrus peel, salted preserved lemons and sweet grapefruit, all of which gradually give way to a return of the red berries that are now sweet but tart, like unripe blackberries. The texture is oily and rich. Water does not spoil the palate at all, adding creaminess and a unifying richness. Finish: Long. Spicy, dark chocolate, salt and finally sweet red berries and milk chocolate in the delicious, mouth-watering aftertaste. Another lovely Tobermory with a dirty old-school profile that has been elevated to a high degree of refinement. They keep doing this and are rapidly becoming one of my favourite distilleries. Not that long ago Tobermory was almost an embarrassment but over the last decade their releases have been of a very high standard. The distillery has re-invented itself and we are the ones to benefit. This is a very good malt, and one that deserves long and patient tasting. It is just about unobtainable now and I missed out on a bottle, but fortunately found a sample from a local online whisky merchant. If you do happen to come across a dusty bottle of this on a shelf somewhere do not hesitate to buy it. Tasted from a 30ml sample. “Very Good” : 86/100 (4 stars)

This bottle from lot LKZR8257 Nose: Citrus, apple, grist. There is a light hint of oak and vanilla but it’s a shy, petite nose and adding water kills it stone dead. Palate: An exceptionally soft arrival with brown sugar, vanilla, light fruit and sweet malt. This is followed by a mild development that introduces delicate tropical fruit, bananas and a little coconut. The texture is light but satisfying. Unlike the nose, a drop of water blooms the palate very nicely, bringing out more sweetness and improving the mouth-feel. Finish: Medium/short. Fruit and dark sugar. The rum casks finally make an entrance just before the curtain falls. Instantly identifiable as young Glenlivet distillate, and it’s pleasing that the distillery character is so forward and not cask dominated. The rum influence is very restrained on both the nose and palate, but it’s not missing, just sitting quietly in the background and the more you sip this the more you notice it. The casks become most apparent in the finish. It’s a very pleasant NAS, exceptionally easy to drink (particularly with a dash of water) and it would be admirably suitable as a session whisky shared with friends on a warm summer’s day. It also teams very well with soda water, dry ginger or Coke and you can throw an ice cube in on a hot day without feeling like you are spoiling anything. I’m rating it on the high side of average, but I somehow feel mean for not giving it 3 stars, like I’m beating a puppy. “Average” : 79/100 (2.75 stars)

Nose: Fruity and rounded, sherry notes, honey, crisp peat smoke, maritime brine. Palate: The arrival is sweet and centred on lemon, preserved ginger in syrup, and honey – it’s curiously like sweetened lemon and ginger tea. It has a short entry followed by short development in which the smoke notes appear. The flavours are mild, soft and not as prominent as the aromas on the nose. The development progresses into spice, mint and fennel towards the finish. The mouth-feel is pleasant, but a bit weak. Finish: Medium. Smoky and sweet with spice notes trailing into the aftertaste. I was given this to taste blind at a local liquor store yesterday and challenged to guess its nature. I thought it was a young Scottish malt of 8-9 years, the distillate being fruity and honeyed in character but given a massive finish of some sort. Imagine something Bill Lumsden might make, like a young Glenmorangie finished in casks that had formerly held a big sherried peaty whisky. In fact, this spirit is Scottish peated new-make aged for nine days. Yes, that’s right – nine days. It is produced by EtOH Spirits, a small Danish company founded by Tobias Emil Jensen who is an inventor, food scientist and brewery engineer based in Copenhagen. Jensen has developed a rapid maturation process that combines ultrasound with chemical additives (don’t panic – just substances like citric acid) under pressure and heat. If I had tasted this as part of a blind tasting line-up of Scottish and world malt whiskies I would not have been able to point the finger and say “that’s not whisky”. However I would also certainly not have singled it out for special praise. It is of good quality, very drinkable, and equivalent to something like Glen Moray Classic Peated - but this is a lot more expensive than that particular single malt. Once it has been perfected, rapid maturation will be a big thing, it’s inevitable. It will very likely become a standard process used by the big distilleries and I can see the day coming when mass-market blended scotch and bourbon are largely phased out in favour of new categories of “aged spirit” and I would have no objection to using such a product for my Coke ‘n smoke. Whether this process, or any similar one, will ever be able to replicate the qualities of long maturation in a good cask is another matter. EtOH Spirits are certainly not at that point yet, and theirs is by far the best and most convincing rapid-aged spirit I’ve tasted so far. Would I buy a bottle of this? No, not at the current price, but I'd happily accept another pour. However if the price came down to equal that of Loch Lomond Reserve then sure - I'd buy it then. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)