Tastes
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Wild Turkey Kentucky Straight Bourbon (Australasian Edition)
Bourbon — Kentucky , USA
Reviewed December 11, 2019 (edited August 12, 2022)Nose: Mild sawdusty-wood notes, vanilla, corn syrup and faint molasses. Some light spiciness (distant peppermint and clove) and a mere trace of coconut. It's a pleasant nose marred only by the ethanol presence being a little sharp. [The dry glass aroma is sawdust and leather]. Palate: Oily and spicy/sweet arrival. The development brings out flashes of rye and oak tannin. In the mid palate a prominent spearmint note comes forward supported by clove oil, nutmeg and cinnamon, reminiscent of the nose. The texture is reasonable. Finish: Medium. Dry, but not sour, and mildly bitter like dark chocolate. The aftertaste is oaky. It's a year since I last had this bourbon and there has been little change to the profile, so it appears to be a consistent expression. From my previous notes it seems like if there is any variation this most recent bottle is a trifle spicier than the last one. The nose can seem a little spirity at first but it improves if you let it stand and develop in the glass for 5 minutes - try it if you don't believe me - it gains body, the oak and leather character becomes more mellow, and it gains some honeyed spiciness. I've made a new listing for this popular whisky to distinguish the version that is sold in Australasia from the U.S. version, as there are subtle differences and having tasted both I feel that for once the version we get out here is pretty good. Wild Turkey Kentucky Straight Bourbon as sold in the U.S. (and I think in the U.K. and Europe) is 40.5% abv and a rebrand of Wild Turkey 81. However in the Australasian-Pacific region it is 43.4% abv and a rebrand of the old Wild Turkey 8 Year Old. The age statement was dropped a long time ago and now it is a 6-8 year old NAS. Whatever the name and history, this is arguably the best bottom-shelf bourbon you can buy in our region and if you're on a budget it's good value for money. "Above Average" : 80/100 (3 stars)40.0 AUD per Bottle -
Whyte & Mackay Special Blended Scotch
Blended — Scotland
Reviewed December 4, 2019 (edited April 10, 2022)Nose: Toffee, caramel, brown sugar, butter - it's a heavy and sweet nose and there is an odd note that takes a while to track down - it's chicory, which is a seldom found aroma in scotch whisky. Palate: A firm, strident arrival that has dark fruits and molasses in abundance. As it develops, vegetal spiciness appears together with a tense flavour of hard toffee - it's like peanut brittle that was cooked too long and almost burnt. This lingers throughout the taste. The texture is OK, but nothing to extol, and a little ethanol tinge is discernable. Finish: Medium/short. There is not much length but there's a lingering bittersweet note of horehound, which is a very rare thing to notice in whisky. This is big old-fashioned bruiser of a type you don't see much anymore. It's not subtle or nuanced at all - you know the expression "a bull in a china shop"? Well, yeah, that's this whisky. It has a robust brown sugar core and a slightly unusual herbal quality (I can't think of any other whisky where I've noticed both chicory and horehound) however the foundation malt is unfortunately rather flat, dull and has an unmistakable stain of sulphur. The palate is harder to like than the nose as it has a really uncompromising burnt sugar quality, but again it's not actually bad - just kind of rough (Jim Murray famously compared this whisky to the enjoyment of rough sex). I can't hate this as much as many folks here, and I think it's worth more than the official rating of 65 (but maybe not much more, and it's certainly a sub-70/100 whisky). I'd drink it at a bar in a pinch, particularly if Grants was the only alternative. Don't take it neat - it's not up to it and you'll only hurt yourself - restrain it with cola or dry ginger and lots of ice and it goes down just fine. "Inferior" : 69/100 (1.75 stars)40.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Cereal and a little sherry, citrus notes, malt, freshly baked bread. Not a particularly characterful nose but there's no ethanol taint and there is a tiny whiff of smoke. It's vaguely reminiscent of the Johnnie Walker blend character, but better - pleasantly crisp and light. [There is a greater smoky note on the dry-glass]. Palate: Wow! Totally unexpected! A full and creamy arrival with great balance. Sweet and fruity at first but then as it hits the palate a generous helping of well-articulated smoke rolls in ahead of a mouth-filling malt surge. It doesn't last for long but it makes a stunning impression while it does. The texture is silken and soft, and there is a mildly spicy character that lasts right until the end. Finish: Medium. Malty, spicy and sweet with a trailing aftertaste. There is a crisp, light cereal graininess in the finale that is quite elegant and it avoids any metallic stain. This is the first time I've ever tasted Black & White and I get why it is a firm favourite for some folks, but I can also see why others would hate it. It is a show-pony for grain whisky - very GOOD grain whisky with excellent flavour and texture - while the malt content is there purely to provide a dramatic and precisely defined malt, fruit and smoke counterpoint. It's an unusual way to create a blend. It has great simplicity and clarity of profile and that's kind of the downside as well. If you are not partial to light and breezy blends with a silky texture then this will seem either devoid of flavour or too much centered on "sweet but bland" grain whisky. If you crave a blend where the malt whisky content dominates the grain whisky then you'll not like this so much. It works stonkingly well either as a neat tipple (in which case it is way too easy to drink!) or with soda water where the character is in no way diminished by dilution. In fact I'd go so far as to say that this is one of the best lower-mid shelf blends I've tasted in a simple highball. The biggest thing going against it is the price, which puts it into direct competition with Johnnie Walker Black Label, Ballantine's 12, Dewer's 12 and any number of other good middle-shelf blends. In that company it gets a little lost, which is a shame as this is a pretty good dram. If it was cheaper I'd buy it again. I do think that the official score of 74 is pointlessly mean - this is easily comparable to blends that have been rated much more highly here and IMHO it's worth more like 80 at least. Oh, and one more thought - if you are a big fan of Compass Box Hedonism blended grain whisky then try a dram of that followed immediately by a neat taste of this. You will get the picture instantly, and Black & White may just be revealed as your favourite blended scotch. "Above Average" : 80/100 (3 stars)50.0 AUD per Bottle
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McCallum's Perfection Blended Scotch Whisky
Blended — Scotland
Reviewed December 2, 2019 (edited June 29, 2022)Nose: Mild sherry, rich full malty notes, a little dark fruit - it's a surprisingly subtle and mature nose for a NAS blend and there is no overt ethanol. Over time there is even the faintest possible hint of smoke detected, but it's the sooty sort of smoke and nothing like Islay peatiness. Palate: Sweet and mildly fruity, with demerara sugar and sherry. The development shows some delicious, almost chewy maltiness with a lot of caramel and brown sugar and the spirit expands to fill the mouth in a pleasant manner. The texture is OK, maybe a little watery, but there are no unpleasant notes. Finish: Medium/short. The central sherried malt character fades into a dark sugar aftertaste. This whisky surprised me. I was not expecting anything of note, in fact I was prepared for the worst as I had assumed it was just a domestic bottom-shelf blend. However it exceeded those expectations and turns out to be very palatable and enjoyable, if a little too much on the sweet side. It's clean and full-bodied and whilst not remarkable is what I'd call a "perfectly decent blend". It has an old-school balance and is akin to Haig Gold Label or a lesser Old Parr in profile (very much your grandpa's blended whisky). It's very palatable taken neat, fares reasonably well as a mixer but to truly enjoy this it needs to be tasted as a generous pour over ice with a splash of soda water or ginger ale. It then instantly transports you to a moderately good restaurant or club in the 1980s. It doesn't go so well with cola as the caramel notes become cloyingly sweet. The alleged foundation malt is Cragganmore, and the flavour profile certainly bears that out, but the most noteworthy features are that the blenders were not stingy with the malt, and the grain component is of good quality. This blend was apparently once big news in the UK but while it has disappeared from that market it retains a faithful following in Australia, New Zealand, Thailand and some of the Caribbean Islands. At the asking price it represents fair value and I'd rank it as one of the better lower-priced blended scotches. Oh, and the label is gorgeously old-fashioned and naff :-) "Average" : 75/100 (2.5 stars)40.0 AUD per Bottle -
Fratelli Giannandrea 1885 Barricata Stravecchia
Grappa/Marc — Italy
Reviewed November 26, 2019 (edited July 15, 2022)Nose: Raisins, apricots, peach, beeswax, honey, tropical fruit. Over time brown sugar, red fruits and vanilla appear and there is a strong resinous wood aroma. The dry-glass smells entirely of these resinous oak notes. Palate: Fruity and spicy entry - like freshly-baked fruit cookies. Dried fruits, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla and honey appear in the development and alcohol is not noticeable. The texture is oily, almost greasy, and the profile is overall similar to a cross between very dry sherry and slivovitz. Finish: Medium/long. Dry and packed with spicy fruit notes. The aftertaste is complex and oily. I have no idea what the 1885 refers to, but it isn't the age. This was matured in French and Slovenian oak barrels but that's about all I could find out about it. It's not particularly old, I'd think, but the wood notes are very prominent and it tastes different to non-aged grappa. I wouldn't buy it again. UPDATE - 18 February 2020 I killed this bottle off last night after persevering with it for several months and I'm revising my original rating. When newly opened it had a resinous oak bouquet that was impressive, but over time it has became unpleasant and more like the smell of cod-liver oil. I assume this was all coming from the un-toasted east-European oak casks. Two other bottles of grappa I currently have open do not show this intrusive fish-oil smell. "Average" : 75/100 (2.5 stars) Original rating "Above Average" : 83/100 (3 stars)125.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Brioche, raisins, icing sugar, plums, beeswax candles. Palate: Sweet arrival with prunes, raisins, dried apricot and resin. It gains complexity in the development and the texture is full and glycerous. Finish: Medium/long. Bittersweet chocolate and slightly sour wax fading to a fruity semi-sweetness in the aftertaste. This is a very basic grappa and it displays all the expected aromas and flavours, however I'd only recommend it if you've never tasted grappa and want to try it at a budget price. Grappa typically has a lot of resinous flavours derived from crushed grape stems and seeds and you may hate it. Ice cold and small sips is the way to go for beginners. Oh, and by the way the name "Acquavitae di Vinaccia" is not a designation of origin or grape type - it just means "spirit made from pomace" - i.e. grappa. "Adequate" : 73/100 (2.25 stars)50.0 AUD per Bottle
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Po do Poli Morbida Grappa
Grappa/Marc — Veneto, Italy
Reviewed November 26, 2019 (edited July 15, 2022)Nose: Orange liqueur and Brazil nuts. Wicker baskets, lychees, passionfruit, light baking spices, rotting tropical fruit and slightly moldy hay. The dry glass aroma is all orange blossom. Palate: Sweet and honeyed initially but quickly gaining the bitter and oily grape-seed notes typical of grappa. Mineral, earthy and floral on the mid-palate with a host of citrus flavours, light cinnamon, pears, and a bittersweet feijoa edge. There is alcohol heat that nearly disrupts the palate, but it dissipates quickly. Finish: Medium/long. Mineral, flinty with an unusual cloying oily taste, but sweet traces are apparent as well. This is a fairly typical example of grappa. It has a predominantly grapey-orange profile, as would be expected from its origin in orange blossom muscat and white muscat grape marc, but there are notes of tropical fruit and rancid nuts. The length is good. Grappa is a divisive spirit and I've come to the conclusion that it is not an acquired taste. It's one of those spirits with strong regional and historic connections and it only really appeals to those who grew up with it. If you've never tried grappa and are curious this is a good one to try, and if you don't like it after the first couple of tastes than then give up on this sort of spirit altogether because it doesn't get a great deal better than this. If you find it too intense try it ice-cold from the freezer. "Adequate" : 74/100 (2.25 stars)75.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Refined and poised - juniper is squarely in focus but supported by a plethora of light spice and herbal fragrances including lavender and rosewater. The summary impression is of smelling flowers, but it's not sickly-floral - more austere and lifted. A really good example of a gin nose done with restraint and panache. The banality of alcohol is nowhere to be seen. Palate: A very pleasant arrival that begins lightly with herbal notes, then quickly moves into sweet territory before expanding into a warm development. The palate throughout has excellent balance and cohesion, with the individual botanicals acting their part but never upstaging the company as a whole. The texture is just right. Finish: Medium. The sweetness of the late palate fades into warmth as the spicy notes reassert in the aftertaste, and there is no trace of bitterness. This is a very good gin. It has a classic gin profile but it is executed in a subtle yet expressive manner with a light touch. Everything fits together with the precision of a jigsaw puzzle and the palate shows distinct development both in the mouth and in the glass. It's a delicious gin to sip neat. I can recommend this as the base for a subtle G&T using Fever Tree Naturally Light and no citrus, or even with soda water and a couple of drops of orange bitters. This gin is a delicate and shy performer and you must allow her the entire stage. I love big hefty juniper monsters like Never-Never Juniper Freak and summer-lightningbolt gins like Cotswolds. I also love the softness of Aviation, the funky earth of Herno and the herbal explosion of Monkey 47 - but this gin is something else again. It's light, subtle, passionate and demure - a ballet of nuance and refinement. The official comments here are on target. This is a very good gin but I would recommend it for neat drinking over a chip of ice or in a very simple drink, such as a light G&T. It would drown instantly in a heavy cocktail. "Very Good" : 86/100 (4 stars)75.0 AUD per Bottle
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Brookie's Byron Dry Gin
Modern Gin — New South Wales, Australia
Reviewed November 21, 2019 (edited July 22, 2022)Nose: Warm, fragrant and expansive but a little hard. The aromas are very much melded into a balanced whole that has aspects of juniper, citrus and herbs (spearmint, thyme and anise). There is an earthy quality and a sort of creamy coziness to the nose that is very pleasant. Even a deep nosing does not show a trace of ethanol but there is a brisk and almost metallic note in the background. Palate: Unexpectedly, given the round and comforting warmth of the nose, the arrival is immediately quite sharp and hot, but it's over a rich and creamy base. It gives an impression almost like chili pepper. The heat expands but never becomes unpleasant, and then gently subsides into the finish. There is lots of bright juniper and a nutty quality as well. The texture is good but again there is that hard note, which extends into the finish. Finish: Medium. The palate subsides into a spicy finish with a touch of sweetness. Alcohol is never apparent but that metallic, industrial presence haunts this gin. Cape Byron distillery is located on the north coast of NSW, not far south of the Queensland border, in a warm temperate rainforest area. The distillery particularly prides itself on the use of local botanicals and maintains it's own privately managed rainforest reserve where ingredients are gathered. The full recipe for this dry gin is not revealed, but it definitely contains finger limes, kumquat, aniseed myrtle, lilly pilly, macadamia nut, river mint and native ginger. The heat on the palate comes mainly from cinnamon myrtle and Dorrigo pepperberry. It's mostly a successful gin of the "modern dry" style. Assertive and quite intense, but the intensity is balanced by a creamy mouthfeel. However it stands out as bright and hot on first neat taste, and even using it in a G&T the raw hard background element pushes through. This is not a subtle gin, and that's its main fault. The distillery has fixated on assertive aromas and flavours to the point that it is something of a bludgeon. Taste this, then taste Whitley & Neill, The Botanist or any other more subtle gin and you'll instantly get what I mean. "Average" : 78/100 (2.75 stars)75.0 AUD per Bottle -
Bombay Sapphire Gin (40%)
London Dry Gin — England
Reviewed November 21, 2019 (edited February 27, 2023)Nose: Juniper, earthy spices (coriander, pepper, tumeric) and a little citrus note. The nose is balanced and mild to the point of shyness and some vanilla-tinged ethanol shows up in the background. Palate: A sweet juniper arrival with evolving spicy and herbal tones. Very much a classic gin profile with good balance but little of note. The texture is unremarkable but certainly not bad. Finish: Short. Sweet with very light herbal and spice notes. 30 years ago this was a standout gin that was part of the vanguard of "new gins" that ushered in the current gin craze. It's remarkable how far we've come so quickly, with gins available today that would have been little short of shocking to the palate a generation ago. It has not changed in profile but nowadays, when compared to many contemporary gins, it seems to be just on the better side of average, but that's all. I guess that's faint praise but to give it its due it is a dependable and pleasant all-round old-school gin that can be used in just about any context. You can sip it neat, but there's no great thrill involved in the process. The main downside to this gin is finding it at a reasonable price. The standard price is around $54 for 70cl however I've seen it priced anywhere from $44-66. At the expensive end it's up against seriously better competition and simply not worth it, but if you can find it on special it's worth buying. If nothing else it is a prime example of a well-made middle-of-the-road gin and it works very well as the first gin in a tasting flight. "Average" : 75/100 (2.5 stars)54.0 AUD per Bottle
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