Tastes

Nose: Neat this is big, bold and assertive with sooty smoke against a dominating background of dense sweet oak. Sherry, tarred ropes, pine resin, fried walnuts, citrus peel, leather, cloves and strong tobacco all stand out clearly and there is a slight trace of vanilla and the usual Laphroaig licorice. However most of these aromas are submerged beneath a mountain of oak. With water a strong aroma of sawdust or pencil shavings emerges and the assertiveness of the nose is tamed, however it does lose a little character. Palate: Tasted neat it's a sledgehammer arrival of great complexity. Sweet cigar-smoke, kalamata olives in brine and olive oil, bitter dark chocolate, blackstrap molasses, licorice and black pepper. There is a complex and immense phenolic aspect to the palate which in combination with all the oak tannin produces a bitter herbal quality. With the addition of water the palate becomes considerably sweeter and more interesting with layered waxy lemon, fruity notes and many new oily nuances unleashed. The texture becomes creamier and more pleasing. While dilution is debatable as regards the nose, in the case of the palate I'd say it is mandatory. Finish: Very long. Smoke, phenols, vegemite and brine. The aftertaste is slightly salty and a little sour - it actually tastes like freshly cut peat moss and oak tannin. Adding water softens the finish considerably but does not damage it. Some sweetness is set free to balance the herbal bitterness, which is most welcome. By the way, the information on the Distiller listing for this is incorrect - it is 59.5% abv, not 51.4%. This is not a subtle whisky. It has all the nuance and expression of a runaway steam locomotive, and it smells like one too - at least one pulling several dozen carloads of fresh resinous timber. I'd also wager that the constituents of this are mostly quite young. It has none of the finesse of really old Laphroaig and it benefits notably from dilution (apart from the nose, which loses definition). While this is much more intense and spectacular than the regular Triple Wood I wouldn't want to drink it every day, or pay the going rate here of $275 a bottle. It's a side-show intended to stun and amaze, not a quiet evening's conversation. However I'd be fascinated to taste this again if they put it into a good refill bourbon cask and let it sit for another 10 years. I think it would then be something truly special. Many thanks to @Soba45 and @PBMichiganWolverine for the opportunity to taste this highly expressive whisky as a 30 ml sample. Also, as it's my last review of 2019 I'd like to extend my best wishes to everyone in the community for a happy, safe and prosperous 2020. May the force of whisky be with you, always. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Nose: Relaxed and laid-back woody peat-reek, smoke-dried fruit (is there such a thing?), oiled leather, mild baking spices and candied orange peel. There's an earthy, almost mouldy note at play as well. Adding water develops strong sweet berry notes. [The dry glass has a very faint smoky aroma]. Palate: Sweet, mildly spicy smoke with good density and many dark fruity notes in the foundation. It has a buttery quality and a fig jam note appears in the development. The oloroso sherry casks can be clearly discerned and the texture is oily but balanced by slight dry tannin. The addition of water is highly recommended as it develops the palate further and certainly produces more smokiness. There is no trace of plastic or metallic notes and no intrusive alcohol heat. Finish: Medium. The jammy note slowly changes to berry compote on the aftertaste. Sweet lingering smoke is the final impression, and adding water intensifies this. This is the most dark-fruit styled Loch Gorm I've tasted. It's unquestionably a good whisky and arguably the most complex and complete bottling to date. It's also heading steadily away from its roots towards the direction of Sanaig's profile. I think I preferred this whisky a couple of years ago when it was more raw and less polite. There was once a brisk feral woodiness to the peat-reek but it seems to be getting more domesticated with each release. In my review of the 2018 bottling I said that in comparison to the 2017 the "bonfire smoke had moved from the beach to the farmyard". Now it seems to be smoldering in the forest, and the fire is burning on damp ground. Over time in the glass the wood-smoke character of the new make begins to reassert itself over the cask influence, but it's not the instant hit in the face it used to be. It gave me the impression of being complacent rather than bursting with enthusiasm. However adding water improved this dram considerably and I'd strongly recommend a half to a full teaspoon. There was no Australian allocation for this release so I've not quoted a price below, but going on the trend from past years it would probably have been around AUS$175. Many thanks to @Soba45 for the tasting sample. "Very Good" : 86/100 (4 stars)

Nose: Bright but subtle peat with a maritime quality - like peat-reek carried on a sea breeze. It's not highly phenolic or medicinal (although there is a little kelpy iodine) but neither is it the woody bonfire smoke of highland peat - it's somewhere in between the two with a light tarry quality and some minerality. There is a mild citrus sweetness in the background but the overall impression is dry, poised and restrained. Over time as it rests in the glass the sweet notes expand to present a mild honey aroma. Palate: A very sweet and lightly smoky arrival with a touch of saline and mild lemon. The smoky character amplifies as it develops and continues to build until it reaches a plateau and then begins to broaden. As it expands some mild vanilla and very soft white pepper is noticeable. It does not gain significant complexity, however, and over time the palate simply dissipates (but in a very pleasant manner). The texture is a little watery but far from anaemic. Finish: Medium. Simply a continuation of the palate as the smoky qualities slowly fade from view. There are no intrusive plastic or metallic notes on the very crisp and lightly sweet/salt finish. This is a simple but well-balanced whisky that it is very agreeable, with a fresh quality to both the nose and palate. It is extremely easy to drink and would be a great session whisky. It would also be an excellent first smoky whisky to pour for a novice as it shows many of the Islay facets but is highly approachable and "friendly". Adding water is neither necessary nor recommended. There is no heat from the 46.3% abv and water merely seems to flatten the nose and dull the palate. It also unbalances the profile by introducing a starchy-cardboard note. Take this one neat. You'd have to be awfully mean to dislike this merely because of its simple profile. It's a good whisky, but not a world-beater, and in my opinion a little over-priced. I tasted it from a 30ml sampler and although I enjoyed it I'm not enthusiastic enough to seek out a bottle. The official score here of 90 seems a tad generous. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)