Tastes

Bowmore tasting evening at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 26th 2019: Whisky #3 Nose: Heavy, dark aromas of baked raisins, roasted nuts, sherry, tar, bitumen, cedarwood, coffee and seaweed. Palate: A full-bodied but dry arrival featuring resinous wood, brine, treacle and smoke. Dark fudge, sherry, glace cherries and a little licorice appear on the development. Finish: Medium/long. Meaty and salty with a dark fruit and woody aftertaste. This is the successor to the old Bowmore 15 year old "Darkest". It is essentially the same whisky but there is a subtle difference between the two expressions. It's more like batch variation than a major change. The old 15 Darkest had an unpleasant aroma combination for me (rubber inner-tubes and furniture polish). It also had a strong cherry cough-syrup flavour. In combination I used to find this profile very distasteful. This expression is similar but less intense. The off-putting aromas are subdued and thankfully the cough-syrup quality has largely disappeared. The character is still woody and resinous but more subtle notes can now be detected. Whether there has been a change to the whisky itself or whether it previously suffered from maturation in unsympathetic casks, it has definitely improved. However, much as I can see that there is something attractive about this malt for many enthusiasts, and despite the awards it has won and its general popularity, I still find it unappealing. My low rating (raised by half a point since last time) reflects my purely subjective reaction to it. "Inferior" : 65/100 (1.5 stars)

Bowmore tasting evening at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 26th 2019: Whisky #2 Nose: Fruit notes, predominantly citrus, but neither fresh fruit nor marmalade - more like the aroma of preserved lemons in olive oil and brine. Smoke is notable as is the aroma of honey-sweetened black tea. There's a trace of vanilla pod, some faint cider vinegar and a somewhat sawdusty oak note. Palate: The arrival is an interesting mix of briny and fruit elements, which makes it simultaneously dry and sweet. The development brings further brine and a well-defined peat-reek. The sweet notes remain but they are balanced by a dry, bitter, almost astringent chocolate flavour like unsweetened cooking cocoa, and by an ashy anise or licorice note with herbal tones. The texture is bright and briny rather than oily. Finish: Medium. Hay, ashy smoke, brine and traces of fruit but it ends with a thin woody aftertaste. I've always thought of Bowmore's core 12 year old as being a conservative "coastal" malt with a couple of quirky edges. The nose is maritime and citric, with the smoke like a waft from a coastal steamer's funnel, and the salt-spray is never far off. A dash of water adds softness and makes the nose fruitier and more fragrant. The palate continues the nose but there is greater influence of wood and smoke. Dilution is of benefit here as it adds sweetness and tones the smokiness, but it does have a tendency to add a soapy note. It's a well-made malt with a strong personality, but after many tastings I've yet to come away feeling really satisfied by it. Many esteem it, but for me it's never been more than competent and I'd far rather spend the money on something else. I think the low proof might be at least half the issue and I'd love to taste this at 46%. I'm increasing my rating this time round by a quarter point as this expression is a little more interesting than the last time I tried it. "Above Average" : 82/100 (3.25 stars) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Originally reviewed April 30, 2017 Nose: Citrus, bright cider, vegetal notes and pickle juice. A touch of vanilla and a faint, dilute smokiness. Palate: Dried fruits, soft peat, herbal notes, wood, sweet pepper, and anise. Faint briny salt plums and some ash. Like the nose, the palate seems to be on the thin side. Finish: Medium. Dry, mildly smoky and briny. On the whole I thought this was a mix of conservative and quirky characteristics, but not a comfortable one. I also noticed that over time as the bottle emptied the brighter notes on the nose and palate disappeared and it all became rounder and rather flat. I was not overly impressed and wouldn't buy it again, but it's not actually bad. I have a feeling that the house style of Bowmore is one you either love or hate and the best experience is with the older and more intense expressions. This one is fairly average, but I'm pushing it to 3 stars because it is undeniably very well made - for me it just lacks something critical. “Above Average” : 80/100 (3 stars) [AUD$85.0 per bottle] ------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bowmore tasting evening at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 26th 2019: Whisky #1 Nose: The first aromas are mild lemon and brine, then light vanilla and cereal notes emerge together with a fragile smoky presence. If you were being generous you could describe it as a delicate nose, but I thought it simply lacked presence. There is an unfortunate aroma of cardboard or plywood in the background. Palate: The palate is a reprise of the nose, having an arrival that is mildly salty and citric with a smidge of peat followed by a development of dry cereal flavours. The same sawdusty / reconstructed wood-pulp character shows up again and then more brine emerges and the dryness veers towards sour tannic notes. Adding water provides some balance by developing sweetness but it also conjures a soapy taste, and the palate is very easy to drown. The texture is rather flat. Finish: Very short. One moment the development is gently fading and the next there is nothing. The profile is classic Bowmore but this expression seems muted and lacking in verve, as though it has been over-diluted. It’s a simple, even generic, malt and while there are not any particularly off notes neither are there any particularly impressive ones. It does have a clean, fresh presentation but to be honest at this price you can do better. “Average” : 78/100 (2.75 stars)

Nose: Immediately very fruity (apples and pairs mainly) with a background of vanilla and caramel and a prominent grassy, honey note. There is a quality to the nose that is very reminiscent of a good blended whisky. The sweetness builds over time but it remains brisk and not cloying. [The dry glass aroma is mainly light ashy smoke]. Palate: A lightly oily and sweet arrival with fruity notes (apple and pear again). As it develops some vanilla and honey becomes apparent, and then there is a wave of very strong esters like fruit flavoured cordial syrup. A little orange essence and chocolate, caramel malted milk, and a touch of peppery spice. There is a metallic note (only slight) but it jars the palate a little. Finish: Medium/short. Fruity and caramel notes that fade into a slightly bittersweet aftertaste with the metallic quality remaining. This is an obviously young single malt. It's very estery and spirit led and the casks were good but not first-fill. The nose lacks the depth and complexity of a good single malt, but it is nevertheless pleasant and refreshing. The overall profile is very like that of a quality blended scotch and the whisky works nicely as a mixer with soda and ice. Dilution tames the fruity characteristics a little on both the nose and palate and is recommended. Actually, with just a dash of plain water it makes a very nice quaffing malt on a hot day, and I'm sure it would be right at home in a highball. At the price it is good value and it would be fine as an occasional alternative to one's usual mixing blend. "Average" : 79/100 (2.75 stars)

Kilchoman tasting evening at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 25th 2019: Whisky #6 Tasted from bottle 177/241. Cask filled 7 April 2011. Bottled 20 February 2019 Nose: The first impression is of dark fruit (dried dates and figs crusted with natural sugars), treacle tarts and a light hint of rum. This is quickly followed by fruity smoke that continues to expand throughout the tasting. Then spice tones appear - cinnamon, vanilla and caraway. The nose shifts its focus as it unfolds, with layers of aromatic fruit, smoke and spice building over a caramel and malt foundation. Palate: The arrival is sweet and smoky and it's hard to say which is the dominant note. Then an array of fruit and nuts arrives - dates, figs, apricots, sultanas, almonds and orange peel all stewed in a sauce of honey, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cardamom. Vanilla caramel appears with a little chocolate as the palate moves towards the finish. The texture is rich, warm and enfolding - somewhere between creamy and oily. There are sweet sugary notes and little hints of rum throughout but they never become sickly or cloying. Finish: Long, slow, complex and lingering. Fruit compote, toffee, vanilla, milk chocolate and fragrant smoke. A successful whisky of elegant complexity that is also very approachable. Every aroma and flavour is clearly defined but it presents as a coherent whole. It is a little like Machir Bay would be if you could amplify it in every dimension. Like most cask-strength whiskies it is immediately impressive but requires time to fully unfold, and dilution assists this process. I thought it was at its best taken down to a little under 50%abv. The smoky character develops particularly well, evolving from a mild background aroma to an assertive peat-reek with no plastic or rubbery tones. The sweet notes definitely bring rum to mind but they sit comfortably with the distillate. It is a clean and well-defined finish and by no means heavy-handed. Kilchoman has produced several single-cask rum-finish whiskies recently, but they are not at all the same. The versions available at the distillery door and in Europe are slightly stronger and finished in ex-Bajan casks, whereas this version (available exclusively in Australia) was finished in an ex-Jamaican rum cask that provided 241 bottles. Given that the rum cask was most likely originally a bourbon cask this is therefore essentially an 8 year old fully bourbon matured cask-strength whisky with a "seasoning" of rum, and it works brilliantly. I very much hope that Kilchoman continues to explore rum-cask maturation as, for me at least, it suits their new-make spirit very well indeed. I'm the proud owner of bottle number 225. "Excellent" : 88/100 (4.5 stars)

Kilchoman tasting evening at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 25th 2019: Whisky #5 Nose: The port note is instantly detectable with red berries and grapes clearly apparent along with rose-water and hibiscus tea. The Kilchoman distillate character is there but obscured by the sweet cask influence. As it sits and rests an earthy peat smoke develops along with a tinge of orange. Palate: Sweet, fruity and spicy arrival – dark honey, strawberry, cherry, plum, red grape, cinnamon (very faint), Turkish delight. The sweetness continues to build as it develops, with the focus squarely on the cask. It is balanced (but see below) and rounded with a spicy tang. Very supple and satisfying texture. Finish: Medium. Raisin fruitcake aftertaste with a little spicy smoke. Although I said the palate is balanced this needs more explanation because there are two clearly defined layers at work in this whisky. The foundation distillate (which is balanced and satisfying in its own right) and the very sweet and fulsome cask influence. Smoky whisky can work well with a hefty PX, port or sweet wine influence and when these elements all integrate you get something that is greater than the sum of the parts. However if the two components of distillate and cask don’t cooperate so well you are left with two easily distinguishable, and often competing, layers. That’s the case here. This does not necessarily produce bad whisky, but it is idiosyncratic. For those who have a sweet tooth and enjoy sherry-bombs or a heavily fruity finish to their whisky this could be just the thing. On the other hand if you prefer a dry profile or a balance between sweet and savory influences the whisky will seem unbalanced and over-sweet. Water does bring out more distillate floral notes on the nose. It also melds the palate a little and brings out a tiny hint of licorice, which for me was an improvement. One thing the port layer does do well here is modulate the smoke and keep it as a more subtle background note. I enjoyed tasting it, but it was too sweet for my palate and it's not a whisky I’d bother to buy. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Kilchoman Masterclass at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 25th 2019: Whisky #4 Nose: Less floral than the bourbon-wood matured Kilchomans, this nose has dark fruits balanced by a well-rounded and spicy bonfire peat-reek with a hint of cigar smoke. There are rich nutty aromas, raisins and chocolate all presenting facets of oloroso sherry. There is an earthiness to the nose, but the 2018 bottling is less maritime than it has been in the past – the bonfire has been moved from the beach to the farmyard. Palate: Rich, smooth, full and rounded arrival with good balance between the key elements. Warm smoke, pipe tobacco, dark cherries, hazelnuts, dark chocolate and raisins – almost like a wood-smoked fruit ‘n nut chocolate bar! A reminiscence of fruitcake. It has a good depth of palate with different notes emerging over time and the texture is luscious and slightly oily. Finish: Medium/long. Smoke and chocolate notes trail into a mouth-watering aftertaste and there are little hints of oloroso sherry and hot spices until the very end. Water makes very little difference to the nose but brings out quite a bit of spice on the palate – clove, black pepper and cayenne all make an appearance. It does, however, thin the texture and the whisky loses overall from dilution. Take this one neat. A rounded and well-integrated whisky, this Loch Gorm is slightly different to prior releases. Most notably it has only a trace of maritime character, but it also seems to have less presence in general than in previous years. However, you could justifiably say that it has gained subtlety, and it is still worth the price of admission. I’m giving this expression a one percentage point lower rating than I gave the 2017 Loch Gorm (which was truly “excellent” at 88/100) but I also think it deserves considerably more than the poor score of 79 given by Distiller - but that’s just my opinion. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)

Kilchoman tasting evening at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 25th 2019: Whisky #3 Nose: A gentle fruity/floral presentation that is less brightly floral than Machir Bay, but not as dusky as Sanaig. There is a rich creamy aroma and some very soft, warm and fragrant peat smoke. As it rests in the glass (and particularly after adding a drop of water) you start to sense distinct white grape notes together with some apricot and peach. Palate: A full-bodied, buttery arrival that is also surprisingly spicy. The peat smoke (which has a full, rounded quality) rises quickly in the development and there is a fruity presence - but it’s not that of either fresh or dried fruits. It has a savory touch to it like preserved kumquat or quince and there is a note of dark orange marmalade. The texture is pleasant and the balance is very good. Finish: Medium/long. As the palate subsides the larger fruity notes fade leaving a lingering mild smoky sweetness tinged with a little ginger as the aftertaste. Matured initially in ex-bourbon for 5 years and then given 5 months finishing in fresh sauternes casks, this is an interesting and successful whisky and is certainly worth tasting if you can find it. A dash of water releases more smoke on both the nose and palate, further reveals the sauternes cask and amplifies the spicy characteristics throughout. The more delicate fruity notes get a little left behind with dilution so overall the whisky loses balance when watered, but it’s still very enjoyable. Some folks may prefer to lower the abv and it can certainly cope with watering down to the low 40s. I vacillated on my summary rating for this – it started out as a solid “good” whisky but by the end of the evening, and when compared with the other Kilchomans we tasted, it moved gradually into “very good” territory. The sauternes cask influence is expertly handled and the wine shows as facets rather than just laying over the spirit like a winey blanket. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)

Kilchoman tasting evening at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 25th 2019: Whisky #1 Nose: Bright, crisp cereal aromas and a gentle fragrance of smoke are the first impressions. The smoke is not a strong medicinal peat-reek but rather a more restrained and floral smoky aroma. It’s reminiscent of campfire smoke some distance away, carrying the occasional waft of something lightly perfumed. There’s a musky tone like white marshmallows and some vanilla and citrus notes threading about. Palate: Smoky and fruity on the arrival – the smoke is much more apparent on the palate than the nose. As it develops, a seaweed note becomes apparent along with some citrus fruits and a background light butterscotch flavor. There is also some mild sweet chili sauce and ginger spice. Adding a dash of water mellows the spicy character and develops more fruit. The texture is pleasantly neutral. Finish: Medium. The subtle smoke that has been present from the first sniff gradually diminishes and gives way to the fruity notes and a sweet, crisp aftertaste. Overall this is an elegantly fresh young whisky with character and style. It’s mild, but not lightweight, with a bright nose that avoids being spirity or hard. It has a supple quality that is refreshing and brisk, but not acrid. It does seem very slightly disconnected, like a band that's not playing in the groove, but a dash of water files off any residual sharp edges, balances the profile and is highly recommended. In comparison to earlier bottlings of Machir Bay this release seems more refined. I recall sampling it 5 years ago and being struck by how obviously young it tasted, but that brashness has gone now. I was impressed by how well it compared to the rest of the whiskies on the evening and kept coming back for another taste. Machir Bay is part of Kilchoman's core range and it's arguably the most revealing expression of their distillate. Earlier bottlings had a year of release statement on the front label, but as far as I know this has not been so since 2014. Since then you have had to examine the back of the bottle to find the bottle code (this tasting was from a bottle of batch 18/54). “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)