Tastes

Irish whiskey may be the type of whiskey that I have the least exposure to or experience with (sorry for ending that sentence in an ugly string of prepositions). I took one step toward remedying that on New Year's with this dram, which is one of the more acclaimed examples of the genre. I know I say it all the time, but in this case, I believe it's true: this needs to be bottled at 48% or perhaps even at cask strength, where it would be an absolute stunner. As it is, there are no glaring flaws to it, other than a faintness to some of its flavors. Its aromas reminded me at first of banana cream pie, which I love. Over time, the creaminess fades out in favor of some plum. The palate also has plenty of that plum and a sweet, whipped cream flavor, which is what lingers on the finish. The emergence of the fruits over time is a testament to some sherry cask influence. This is an affordable whiskey at $50-60 a bottle, and probably would be my go-to recommendation in the Irish genre.

Not easy to find Buffalo Trace Antique Collection bottles, and even harder to find them for a decent price. Thankfully, Mandarin Hide in St. Petersburg (Fla.) is operating like a charity for whiskey lovers at the moment, so we got two pours of this beautiful bourbon for $16 a drink. Compared to the last George T. Stagg I enjoyed, the 2013 version, this bourbon seemed less intense, despite the almost identical ABV and aging. Its nose is distinctive and exhibits the dried fruit and chocolate character that I associate with Buffalo Trace. This year's version is reminiscent of chocolate-covered raisins, with a rich backdrop of luxurious leather. Each sip is more delicious than the last, exhibiting apricot, raisin, chocolate, and caramel in equal measure. The finish has a pop of rye spice and a long, spicy, dry, oak coda. Another lovely bourbon, although I wouldn't kill myself to find a bottle.

This is my first bourbon from Barton Distillery, which distills the 1792 lineup. This is not quite a barrel-proof bourbon, since every batch of it comes in at exactly 62.5% ABV. Instead, it's very high-proof 1792 that the distillery slightly waters down to get to exactly that ABV. For about $50, it's one of the least expensive, best-rated high-proof bourbons out there. The downside of that pricing is that there's a chance (actually a certainty) that Barton's mainly using young juice for this product. Despite that, it stacks up just fine. The nose has a wonderful aroma of vanilla coconut frosting, coffee and cream, and black tea. Its flavors with each sip are intense and rich caramel and a mouthful of tannins, so the wood influence is strong. Interestingly, there is little rye spice or grain in this bourbon, at least not much that I could detect. 1792 Full Proof has a composed finish of oak and caramel, with some stewed fruit accents. It gets prickly and grassy at the very end, which is a flaw, but an understandable one given the high proof and young age. Nonetheless, this represents a strong value in the increasingly crazy bourbon world.

Before getting to Room 901, a relatively new whiskey bar in St. Petersburg (Florida), I hadn't found a bar that carries Four Roses' annual, coveted Limited Edition Small Batch. Happily, it was worth the wait and worth the search. This bourbon's signature characteristic is balance. It's not an extreme, hair-raising powerhouse, nor is it a light, simple pour. It has complexity, but it's not challenging and strange in its flavor profile. The nose introduces itself with peanut brittle before transitioning to a more classic profile of caramel, oak, and ripe pear. The palate proceeds differently, with citrus notes of orange and grapefruit, oak, burnt brown sugar, and maple syrup. It has a great, mouth-coating sensation. This limited edition concludes with a long, warming finish with nutty and oaky characteristics. In quality, it's not necessarily head and shoulders above the better Four Roses Private Selections that one can find around the country, but it's a matter of risk. If you purchase one of Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch versions, which are both expensive and rare (MSRP is $130 a bottle, and many liquor stores will slap a big markup on that price), you're getting the distillery's wisdom and a uniform flavor profile. If you opt for a store or bar pick, you're relying on one person's judgment, and hoping that your tastes are aligned. It's a tradeoff. Sometimes, Private Selections turn out to be spectacular bourbons that are better than any limited release from the distillery, which understandably is aiming at a more universally pleasing but less distinctive character, while, other times, you'll wind up with something that's just not for you. Don't hesitate to try this one if you're lucky enough to find it.

After having two drinks that required some serious contemplation (High West's spectacular Midwinter Night's Dram, and Lost Spirits bizarre but fascinating Abomination), it was a relief in a way to have an easy-drinking, no-fuss dram from the biggest brand in scotch. Green Label is supposed to be a well-balanced, mildly smoky scotch. It's a little boring also, but them's the breaks. The nose is honey, cereal grains, and apple in equal proportions. The palate carries through all of those notes and gradually introduces a mild smoke, like a young woman who reluctantly introduces her Harley-riding boyfriend to her respectable father. The best thing that this blend has going for it is its finish, which is Highland Park-esque in its cocoa and coffee qualities. This is the kind of scotch that I could happily drink at any time, without ever being entirely happy with it, if that makes any sense.

High West is one of my favorite distilleries out there. Their Rendezvous Rye was my previous favorite rye, with the caveat that I've probably tried somewhere in the range of 10 ryes (compared to dozens, if not hundreds, of scotches). A Midwinter Night's Dram is High West's most coveted and highly rated product, and essentially is a variant on Rendezvous. At $120 a bottle in my local liquor store, it's an expensive variant on the $60 original. After taking that already stellar rye, which blends together 16- and 6-year old sourced whiskies, High West finishes the result in port pipes. That extra finishing, and a few extra percentage points of ABV, are the differences between the two products. The bottom line is that this is a sweeter and (slightly) more nuanced version of Rendezvous. The nose opens on a rich caramel note and then proves itself to be perhaps the best winter holidays dram one can buy: pine, rye, mint, syrup, and gingerbread! High West might as well come to our house and decorate the tree as well. On the palate, I can immediately see the family resemblance between this and Rendezvous Rye, because there are many of the same notes of cappuccino and citrus, but with an added layer of dark chocolate croissants and ciruela. Credit for that last tasting note goes to my wife, who actually knows what that is! The texture is spot-on thanks to the reduced dilution and the finish is also longer. It remains citrus and mint-heavy, but the gingerbread from the nose makes a second appearance. Why doesn't everyone finish their ryes in port? @PBMichiganWolverine - you were right when you recommended this, thanks!

Weller belongs to the growing category of bourbons that are affordable in theory but unattainable in reality. Priced by MSRP in the $35 range, this bottle gets gobbled up by sharp-eyed collectors, and I've never even seen it in a store. After trying it, I can see why -- if I could find it, this might become my favorite bourbon at its price point. The nose is complex and unusual. It has some conventional bourbon scents, cherry, caramel, and brown sugar, but there also is some aromatic sandalwood that lends it a more luxurious air. The strangest scent I got was mink oil, which reminds me some high-end leather rejuvenators (Saphir in particular). Weller's taste hews closer to a classic wheated bourbon profile, like a milder but better version of Weller Antique 107: black cherry pie and baking spices. The finish transforms to other dessert flavors, including pear tart, cherry again, and a smidgen of heat.

This is an interesting scotch, and not something I expected to find in a Caol Ila product. This independent bottling comes from Gordon & Macphail, one of the oldest and most experienced groups sourcing and releasing single casks of whiskey. What's unusual about this one is that its unique red-wine finishing transforms its Caol Ila base into something that's much more like Ardbeg or Laphroaig. There's more peat than smoke on first whiff, and sherry or wine accents, with more savory, meaty scents of buttered biscuits and prosciutto rising up over time. The palate reminds me of a sherry-finished Ardbeg or Laphroaig, like Ardbeg Dark Cove in particular. There's a medicinal edge to its smoke, but is complemented by a chimeric set of flavors that remind me of a sweet and salty honeyed ham. The finish is fiery smoke at first, but then it builds up to sweeter flavors of honey. This bottle probably would set you back by $100 or more, although it's not available anymore, so perhaps we don't have to worry about the price all that much. If you find it in a bar, ask for a pour and you won't regret it!

After having two spectacular drams to start the night, I moved on to one of Laphroaig's regular lineup expressions, and one of the few that I haven't tried before. Unfortunately, perhaps because of palate exhaustion or merely because I've already figured out my favorites in the distillery's lineup, Triple Wood didn't strike the best chords with me. The nose is a dry, woody smoke with less medicinal flavor and brine than I expected. Maple syrup as well, which is an odd flavor to find in a Laphroaig. The palate also stars that maple syrup flavor, almost more so than the distillery's smoke and peat signature. This scotch is a little too sweet for my tastes, especially when gearing up for a savory, briny Islay smoke bomb. The finish begins much like the nose, with dry wood smoke, and then transitions into honey-roasted nut notes. This variation on Laphroaig would be appreciated by fans of Speyside scotches, and at $70 or so, is fairly priced. But if I saw a shelf of Laphroaigs, this would not be one of the first ones that I'd pluck off the shelf.

Thanks to @PBMichiganWolverine for the sample! My read on this blended scotch is that my palate isn't really sensitive enough to discern the differences between Ardbeg and Caol Ila at a 7:1 ratio, and certainly not enough to pick out a small proportion of Clynelish's Highland malt when combined with so much assertive Islay scotch. At the end of the day, this tastes like a slightly more aged version of Ardbeg 10, which it kind of is. The rumors indicate that the Ardbeg in this bottle was distilled in 2003, which would make this 13- to 14-year old 'Beg. Its scents are consistent with that rumor, as I experience some crispy smoked pork rinds right out of the gate, then oil and lime (citrus being an Ardbeg signature). The palate is surprisingly mild -- who knows, I may be saying this because I'd had two other Islay scotches right before this one -- and has more lime than anything else. The finish is unmistakably Ardbeg: barbecue smoke and lime, with sweetness on the upswing. This is not easy to find and priced at $125 or more, but I'm not sure it adds enough to the Ardbeg distillery character to warrant the ask. The more experienced Compass Box aficionados may be able to pick out notes here that I didn't get. My sense is that this is a dram for the experienced scotch drinker with a sensitive palate.