Tastes

I've loved every Oban expression I've had, starting with the mainstay Oban 14, which is utterly delicious. The 18 builds upon that deliciousness, even though four additional Scottish whisky years is nowhere near as "long" as four years of American whiskey aging due to Oban's damp North Atlantic coastal climate. (The average daily high temperature at the peak of summer in Oban is 64°, which is lower than the average daily low in Bardstown, Kentucky of 69°; the average daily high at the peak of summer in Bardstown is 87°. Higher temperatures age whisk(e)y more quickly). Deep pale amber. Upon opening and pouring, immediately notice richly effusive notes of orange marmalade and poached pear; successive nosings reveal honeydew, lightly toasted coconut, brown sugar, milk chocolate, and the faintest whiff of smoky bacon. A touch of leather on the palate finishing with gentle white pepper. What seems to be a touch of woody bitterness on the finish is the only detractor from an otherwise fabulous pour. 43% ABV is nicely balanced. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Earlier this year I attended a bourbon tasting with Rabbit Hole's founder, Kaveh Zamanian. I'd seen some of Rabbit Hole's bottlings at local stores, but had never tried them. The tasting changed that, and I was converted. Kaveh is building a world-class distillery that is focused on quality. About a decade ago, Angel's Envy started the sherry cask finishing trend in bourbon. Rabbit Hole Dareringer continues that tradition, and is the only whiskey in the Rabbit Hole lineup that is finished in sherry casks. The mash bill is 68% corn, 18% wheat, and 14% malted barley. It is bottled at 93 proof. Despite the sherry-cask finishing, Rabbit Hole Dareringer is not significantly darker than many bourbons, showing a clear mahogany color (some scotch whiskies, e.g., Edradour 10, Glendronach 18, etc. are much darker than typical due to the sherry influence). Gorgeous, sweet nose evokes brown sugar, dates, nutmeg, carrot cake, some vanilla and espresso. Palate has some oak and a touch of amaretto, with some drying leather notes and some vanilla extract, finishing long. A pleasure to drink. I've yet to taste Dareringer side by side with Angel's Envy, but based on my experience with both separately, the Dareringer shows more of the sherry influence, pushing it a little further from classic bourbon typicity--but this is a good thing. I would bet that some bourbon purists might shy away somewhat (though Rabbit Hole has these bases covered with its Cavehill and Heigold bottlings), but the sherry makes this bourbon unique. Fabulous stuff. In the opinion of this taster, Rabbit Hole is a distillery with which every bourbon afficionado needs to become familiar--if they're not already. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Wild Turkey's Kentucky Spirit is a single-barrel release, bottled at 101 proof. This one was bottled on 4/30/2020 from barrel 1448, stored in Warehouse A, on rick 37. Clear mahogany color. Vanilla, roasted marshmallow, milk chocolate, orange oil, Red Delicious apple skins, and a musty/dusty (though not unpleasant) undernote. Palate has tobacco and leather, in addition to some welcome--and expected--heat, finishing with char, oak, and vanilla. Kentucky Spirit is a model of restraint. It doesn't need to be showy. It's neither hazmat-strength nor the watery bourbon minimum of 80 proof. It isn't young and aggressive; neither is it too old and overcome with woody tannins (the #4 "alligator" char used by Wild Turkey helps). It is polished and smooth. There is no age statement on the bottle, but WT's website states that it is aged 8 years. Postscript With all due respect, I continue to find wide variance in Stephanie Moreno's Distiller reviews (see my reviews on Compass Box Hedonism and Glendronach Allardice 18 Year). Her note is worth repeating here: "The nose hits you with a big hit of oak along with sweet caramel and vanilla notes. There's also a touch of orange peel and dried herbs to be found as well. Moving on the the taste, you'll find butterscotch candies mixed with peppery oak flavors, apple skins and baking spices. The mouthfeel is on the thin side and the length of the finish is average. Could stand to be a bit more complex." Five different olfactory descriptors. Four different palate notes. And ending with "could stand to be a bit more complex"? for a score of 84? Logically inconsistent. To be fair, Kentucky Spirit is a single-barrel bourbon, which means there will be variance from barrel to barrel. That does not, however, mean that a review should be intemperate. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in separate Glencairn glasses.

I'm certainly no master distiller, but when Maker's Mark began finishing bourbon with wood staves--by placing the same wood staves that coopers use to make barrels loosely into existing barrels of bourbon--I initially turned my nose up at the practice. It didn't seem "natural" to me. It seemed like the bourbon was somehow being adulterated. But my palate soon disabused myself of this thinking, as I loved Maker's 46. MM has continued this practice with its Private Selection series, which uses five different staves with 1,001 different combinations. More recently, MM has introduced its "Wood Finishing Series" with one offering in each of 2019 and 2020, and two in 2021: FAE-01 in the Spring, and FAE-02 in the Fall. I've tried (and loved) both the FAE-01 and -02; but as it's hard to find, I only own the FAE-01. The staves are French oak, with only one side charred, exposing the bourbon to both extra char and raw wood (seasoned, i.e. dried outside; not kilned) on either side of the stave. Clear, classic tawny burnt orange color. Nose shows dried apricot, brown sugar, vanilla, buttered pancakes, raw split oak, and some ethanol (110.6 proof). Palate has a viscous, glycerin-like mouthfeel, with walnuts and oaky vanilla, finishing with leather and (still more) oaky vanilla. The oak is noticeable, but in a good way. Surprisingly little heat for the 110.6 proof. MM FAE-01 was Whisky Advocate's #2 whisk(e)y of 2021, with a retail price of $60. Online prices currently range from $120-160. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Weller Showdown: Old Antique 107 vs Full Proof The W.L. Weller line is one of the many brands produced by Buffalo Trace (BT), and the distillery has expanded that line in recent years to include C.Y.P.B. (white label), Full Proof (WFP; blue label), and Single Barrel (WSB; brown label), on top of the already popular Special Reserve (WSR; green label), Antique 107 (WA107; red label), 12 Year (W12; black label), and William Larue Weller (part of the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, or BTAC). Weller’s original lineup (excluding BTAC) was comprised of the lowest priced no-age-statement (NAS) WSR (90 proof); the higher proof NAS WA107 (107 proof); and W12, which is aged 12 years and is bottled at 90 proof like WSR. CYPB (“Craft Your Perfect Bourbon”) was a crowd-sourced marketing event, where users were asked about age, mashbill, warehouse location, and other items. CYPB carries an 8-year age statement and is bottled at 95 proof. WFP (not barrel proof) was then released with NAS and bottled at 114 proof. WSB is single-barrel like it’s cousins Blanton’s and Elmer T. Lee, and is NAS and bottled at 97 proof. Confused? We haven’t even gotten to prices. Because these bourbons are in such high demand, very few (if any) can be found at retail prices. Many consumers don’t even know what these bottles retail for, because they’re rarely available. But the state-run system in North Carolina publishes quarterly price lists for all bourbon to be sold in the state (a quick Internet search will uncover these lists, as well as slickly designed annual reports and other examples of government run amuck; but I digress). The four readers of this review may be shocked to know the following retail prices (rough “secondary” prices are in parentheses, with a “+” after each, because they’re frequently much higher): • WSR: $29.95 ($60+) • WA107: $49.95 ($125+) • W12: $44.95 ($350+) • CYPB: $49.95 ($800+) • WFP: $49.95 ($400+) • WSB: $50.35 ($800+) The point of all this? In order to popularize on its own cachet and insatiable market demand, BT has introduced additional brands into its Weller line, and two of the three new releases are NAS. And the difference between some of them are subtle. To BT’s credit, WA107 and WFP both have the same retail price ($49.95). This is justifiable, as they share the same mashbill; their age statements are not specified; and the proof difference is only seven points. Ostensibly WFP has lower production levels than WA107, and this may be the result of cherry-picking select rickhouses (warehouses) and ricks (racks). While specific locations can impact quality and flavor, we’re getting into hair-splitting territory. For most of us, these bourbons are only available at secondary prices (I did buy a case of WA107—actually single-barrel select from Fairway—for $36.99 per bottle a few years back, but that’s another story). If WA107 may be available for $125+, and WFP for $400+, and they share the same mashbill and retail price, and differ by just seven proof points, is there a reason to pay the extra $275—even if you could find it? I thought I’d try them side-by-side to find out. W107 Classic clear mahogany bourbon color. On the nose, caramel, vanilla, brown sugar, chocolate covered cherries, sweet pipe tobacco, roasted marshmallows (noted after trying the WFP), and some ethanol. Sweet palate reveals more brown sugar and some oaky tannins, finishing with some spiciness and lingering vanilla. Smooth for the 107 proof, with a soft bourbon burn. 4.25 points on the Distiller scale. WFP No discernable color difference from the WA107. Not identical in nose or palate, however. The WFP nose comes across as more focused, purer, and “intense” than the W107 (I don’t think 7 proof points alone would do this). It is also fruitier, with dried figs, prunes, and dates, along with cinnamon raisin oatmeal cookies and cedar. There is more heat on the palate, but this isn’t necessarily solely a function of the higher proof. Additional cinnamon transitions to more of a leathery finish, indicating possibly longer age (and/or floors or ricks). Very good. 4.5+ points on the Distiller scale. I was pleasantly surprised at the difference between these two bourbons (especially because I paid more than retail, but less than secondary, for the WFP). The skeptic in me was concerned that the gaps in the Weller line that have been filled with these newer brands was more sizzle than steak; but that does not appear to be the case with WA107 and WFP, in the humble opinion of this taster. I find the WFP noticeably better--though the WA107 is still a very good pour. Unless price is no object, stick with the WA107, or find friends who will pour you the WFP (if the lights are on in my barn, I’m pouring!). N.B. All spirits tasted neat in separate Glencairn glasses.

Weller Showdown: Old Antique 107 vs Full Proof The W.L. Weller line is one of the many brands produced by Buffalo Trace (BT), and the distillery has expanded that line in recent years to include C.Y.P.B. (white label), Full Proof (WFP; blue label), and Single Barrel (WSB; brown label), on top of the already popular Special Reserve (WSR; green label), Antique 107 (WA107; red label), 12 Year (W12; black label), and William Larue Weller (part of the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection, or BTAC). Weller’s original lineup (excluding BTAC) was comprised of the lowest priced no-age-statement (NAS) WSR (90 proof); the higher proof NAS WA107 (107 proof); and W12, which is aged 12 years and is bottled at 90 proof like WSR. CYPB (“Craft Your Perfect Bourbon”) was a crowd-sourced marketing event, where users were asked about age, mashbill, warehouse location, and other items. CYPB carries an 8-year age statement and is bottled at 95 proof. WFP (not barrel proof) was then released with NAS and bottled at 114 proof. WSB is single-barrel like it’s cousins Blanton’s and Elmer T. Lee, and is NAS and bottled at 97 proof. Confused? We haven’t even gotten to prices. Because these bourbons are in such high demand, very few (if any) can be found at retail prices. Many consumers don’t even know what these bottles retail for, because they’re rarely available. But the state-run system in North Carolina publishes quarterly price lists for all bourbon to be sold in the state (a quick Internet search will uncover these lists, as well as slickly designed annual reports and other examples of government run amuck; but I digress). The four readers of this review may be shocked to know the following retail prices (rough “secondary” prices are in parentheses, with a “+” after each, because they’re frequently much higher): • WSR: $29.95 ($60+) • WA107: $49.95 ($125+) • W12: $44.95 ($350+) • CYPB: $49.95 ($800+) • WFP: $49.95 ($400+) • WSB: $50.35 ($800+) The point of all this? In order to popularize on its own cachet and insatiable market demand, BT has introduced additional brands into its Weller line, and two of the three new releases are NAS. And the difference between some of them are subtle. To BT’s credit, WA107 and WFP both have the same retail price ($49.95). This is justifiable, as they share the same mashbill; their age statements are not specified; and the proof difference is only seven points. Ostensibly WFP has lower production levels than WA107, and this may be the result of cherry-picking select rickhouses (warehouses) and ricks (racks). While specific locations can impact quality and flavor, we’re getting into hair-splitting territory. For most of us, these bourbons are only available at secondary prices (I did buy a case of WA107—actually single-barrel select from Fairway—for $36.99 per bottle a few years back, but that’s another story). If WA107 may be available for $125+, and WFP for $400+, and they share the same mashbill and retail price, and differ by just seven proof points, is there a reason to pay the extra $275—even if you could find it? I thought I’d try them side-by-side to find out. W107 Classic clear mahogany bourbon color. On the nose, caramel, vanilla, brown sugar, chocolate covered cherries, sweet pipe tobacco, roasted marshmallows (noted after trying the WFP), and some ethanol. Sweet palate reveals more brown sugar and some oaky tannins, finishing with some spiciness and lingering vanilla. Smooth for the 107 proof, with a soft bourbon burn. 4.25 points on the Distiller scale. WFP No discernable color difference from the WA107. Not identical in nose or palate, however. The WFP nose comes across as more focused, purer, and “intense” than the W107 (I don’t think 7 proof points alone would do this). It is also fruitier, with dried figs, prunes, and dates, along with cinnamon raisin oatmeal cookies and cedar. There is more heat on the palate, but this isn’t necessarily solely a function of the higher proof. Additional cinnamon transitions to more of a leathery finish, indicating possibly longer age (and/or floors or ricks). Very good. 4.5+ points on the Distiller scale. I was pleasantly surprised at the difference between these two bourbons (especially because I paid more than retail, but less than secondary, for the WFP). The skeptic in me was concerned that the gaps in the Weller line that have been filled with these newer brands was more sizzle than steak; but that does not appear to be the case with WA107 and WFP, in the humble opinion of this taster. I find the WFP noticeably better--though the WA107 is still a very good pour. Unless price is no object, stick with the WA107, or find friends who will pour you the WFP (if the lights are on in my barn, I’m pouring!). N.B. All spirits tasted neat in separate Glencairn glasses.

Earlier this year I attended a bourbon tasting with Rabbit Hole's founder, Kaveh Zamanian. I'd seen some of Rabbit Hole's bottlings at local stores, but had never tried them. The tasting changed that, and I was converted. Kaveh is building a world-class distillery that is focused on quality. I've been able to purchase the Dareringer and Cavehill locally, but had been unable to find the Heigold. This past weekend I visited New Hampshire and found some in one of NH's state-owned liquor stores at $50--roughly $15 below what I've seen online--and pulled the trigger. Clear oiled-teak color. Sweet nose shows caramel, vanilla, orange blossom, some ethanol, and licorice. On the palate, bitter orange, char, and a dusting of spicy white pepper. Vanilla lingers on the finish. Overall impression is sweet and easy drinking, with some rye spiciness (the Heigold is RH's high-rye mashbill: 70% corn, 25% malted rye, and 5% malted barley). The 95 proof is not as apparent as the number would suggest. The age is only "over 3 years," suggesting that the best is yet to come. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

“Oban” means “Little Bay" in Gaelic; thus this is “Little Bay Little Bay.” LB2 is a no-age statement (NAS) whisky; the distillery says that it “takes mature small batch Oban Single malt” without quantifying what exactly “mature” means. It then finishes them in smaller barrels, providing more wood exposure. Deep tawny gold color. Complex, fruity nose has the classic Oban ripe pear, with honey, quince, guava, and fig preserves on toast. Viscous mouthfeel reveals orange chocolate, light ethanol, faint peat, and white pepper, finishing with some pleasantly drying leather, a whiff of smokiness, and bitter chocolate. 43% ABV. LB2 has more intensity than the Oban 14 or 18, with a more robust flavor profile, not dissimilar to the Distiller’s Edition (minus the sherry cask finishing). At around $50, this is one of the best scotch whisky values out there, combining complexity and easy-drinking sweetness that is appealing to both afficionado and neophyte alike. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

BTAC Showdown: George T. Stagg (2019 release) vs William Larue Weller (2019 release) George T. Stagg and William Larue Weller, part of the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection (BTAC), need no introduction here. While these are scarce “collectible” bottles, I purchased them both to drink and share with fellow afficionados (not just plain friends!). Both were purchased on a trip out of state on a bourbon-hunting foray: the Stagg was by itself at one store, but the WLW was part of a set at another store that the owner would not separate. That set included WLW, Weller Full Proof, Weller CYPB, Weller 12, Weller 107, and Weller Special Reserve. I really wasn’t interested in the W107 or WSR, as I already had some of both; but I didn’t have much choice in the matter. I paid plenty for the lot, after considerable back and forth (the shop was on the way to Augusta, Georgia, and the owner insisted that the group looked good in his store for people going to The Masters—I tried not to laugh—did he want to sell or not?), but in hindsight the entire lot was well below secondary for just one WLW today. While both of these bourbons are part of BTAC, they have different mashbills. Buffalo Trace provides very detailed information in their Release Letter for each bourbon. George T. Stagg • Mashbill: Kentucky corn (Distillers Grade #1 and #2), Minnesota Rye, and North Dakota malted barley • Barrel: new, white oak, #4 char • Proof: 116.9 • Distillation: Spring 2014 • Release: Fall 2019 • Age: 15 years, 3 months Clear, dark mahogany color, as one would expect from a 15-year-old bourbon. Nose offers pipe tobacco, cedar, oatmeal raisin cookie, bergamot, some underlying vanilla, and noticeable cool mint. (Tasted again after the WLW, both caramel and rye are more noticeable on the nose). Palate shows some pleasant heat, barrel char, and leather notes, leading to pepper, oak, and vanilla on the long finish. Overall, the Stagg comes across as slightly more woody than the WLW, consistent with the increased age—but not in a negative way. Very, very good. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. William Larue Weller • Mashbill: Kentucky corn (Distillers Grade #1 and #2), North Dakota wheat, North Dakota malted barley • Barrel: new, white oak, #4 char • Proof: 128.0 • Distillation: Winter 2007 • Release: Fall 2019 • Age: 12 years, 6 months Clear, dark mahogany color, virtually indistinguishable from the Stagg, despite being roughly three years younger. Complex nose shows carrot cake, luxardo cherries, honey, pomander, and even barbecue sauce. Pleasant, almost pillowy, penetrating, mouthcoating palate where the high proof makes its presence known. Long finish, culminating in a smooth, well-integrated, oaky vanilla. Incredibly smooth considering the 128 proof. An iconic, benchmark bourbon against which any other can be measured. 5.0 on the Distiller scale. George T. Stagg and William Larue Weller are two incredibly well-made, top-of-the-line bourbons. There is no marketing fluff here. There’s no “hipness.” This is old-school, top-quality bourbon that is a pleasure to savor. The GTS is a bit more leathery and woody, almost rough-hewn, whereas the WLW is more smooth, more refined. Think Clint Eastwood in his prime (Stagg) vs Roger Moore in his (WLW). Both alpha, apex performers at the top of their (slightly different) games. N.B. All spirits always tasted neat from a Glencairn glass

BTAC Showdown: George T. Stagg (2019 release) vs William Larue Weller (2019 release) George T. Stagg and William Larue Weller, part of the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection (BTAC), need no introduction here. While these are scarce “collectible” bottles, I purchased them both to drink and share with fellow afficionados (not just plain friends!). Both were purchased on a trip out of state on a bourbon-hunting foray: the Stagg was by itself at one store, but the WLW was part of a set at another store that the owner would not separate. That set included WLW, Weller Full Proof, Weller CYPB, Weller 12, Weller 107, and Weller Special Reserve. I really wasn’t interested in the W107 or WSR, as I already had some of both; but I didn’t have much choice in the matter. I paid plenty for the lot, after considerable back and forth (the shop was on the way to Augusta, Georgia, and the owner insisted that the group looked good in his store for people going to The Masters—I tried not to laugh—did he want to sell or not?), but in hindsight the entire lot was well below secondary for just one WLW today. While both of these bourbons are part of BTAC, they have different mashbills. Buffalo Trace provides very detailed information in their Release Letter for each bourbon. George T. Stagg • Mashbill: Kentucky corn (Distillers Grade #1 and #2), Minnesota Rye, and North Dakota malted barley • Barrel: new, white oak, #4 char • Proof: 116.9 • Distillation: Spring 2014 • Release: Fall 2019 • Age: 15 years, 3 months Clear, dark mahogany color, as one would expect from a 15-year-old bourbon. Nose offers pipe tobacco, cedar, oatmeal raisin cookie, bergamot, some underlying vanilla, and noticeable cool mint. (Tasted again after the WLW, both caramel and rye are more noticeable on the nose). Palate shows some pleasant heat, barrel char, and leather notes, leading to pepper, oak, and vanilla on the long finish. Overall, the Stagg comes across as slightly more woody than the WLW, consistent with the increased age—but not in a negative way. Very, very good. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. William Larue Weller • Mashbill: Kentucky corn (Distillers Grade #1 and #2), North Dakota wheat, North Dakota malted barley • Barrel: new, white oak, #4 char • Proof: 128.0 • Distillation: Winter 2007 • Release: Fall 2019 • Age: 12 years, 6 months Clear, dark mahogany color, virtually indistinguishable from the Stagg, despite being roughly three years younger. Complex nose shows carrot cake, luxardo cherries, honey, pomander, and even barbecue sauce. Pleasant, almost pillowy, penetrating, mouthcoating palate where the high proof makes its presence known. Long finish, culminating in a smooth, well-integrated, oaky vanilla. Incredibly smooth considering the 128 proof. An iconic, benchmark bourbon against which any other can be measured. 5.0 on the Distiller scale. George T. Stagg and William Larue Weller are two incredibly well-made, top-of-the-line bourbons. There is no marketing fluff here. There’s no “hipness.” This is old-school, top-quality bourbon that is a pleasure to savor. The GTS is a bit more leathery and woody, almost rough-hewn, whereas the WLW is more smooth, more refined. Think Clint Eastwood in his prime (Stagg) vs Roger Moore in his (WLW). Both alpha, apex performers at the top of their (slightly different) games. N.B. All spirits always tasted neat from a Glencairn glass