Tastes

Elijah Craig Barrel Proof: B520 vs A122 Elijah Craig Barrel Proof (ECBP) is one of my favorite bourbons. Heaven Hill, the distillery for Elijah Craig, releases ECBP three times per year (January, May, September), with a four-character code: January is “A1” (A for first release; 1 for the month of January); May is “B2” (B for the second release; 5 for the month of May); and September is “C3” (C for the third release; 9 for the month of September). The second two characters correspond to the last two digits of a particular year. Thus “B520” is the second release, in May, in the year 2020. All ECBP have a 12-year age statement, and proof typically ranges from around 120 to nearly 140. Caveat bibitor. I pulled out B520 and A122 at random because I have them both open (I have most if not all releases going back four years or so). B520: Clear orange mahogany color. Powerful nose: noticeable ethanol (to be expected; this is barrel proof bourbon) almost struggles to be noticed in the explosion of olfactory elements: malted milk balls, freshly mown hay, maple syrup, creosote railroad ties, split oak, sweet pipe tobacco, and vanilla. (NB: nosed after the A122, there is a quite prevalent toasted marshmallow note). Penetrating mouthfeel is spearheaded with heat, with notes of sweet café Cubano, leather, and cigar tobacco, and cinnamon. Faint woody tannins and some vanilla on the medium-length finish. A122: Clear orange mahogany color; indistinguishable from the B520. Different nose: ethanol not as pronounced (120.8 vs B520’s 127.2); more grassier rather than hay; some coconut; chocolate-covered cherries; sweet pipe tobacco and toasted marshmallow like the B520; and pomander and red hots. Palate is more woody and leathery, with noticeable (pleasantly expected) heat, before finishing with lingering notes of coconut and vanilla. Different release years, different months, different proofs: the consistent (albeit slightly different) quality and hedonistic pleasure that both of these bottles affords illustrates why each release of ECBP goes into my inventory whether tasted already or not. Irrespective of release, bourbon afficionados can bank on a good pour. And at $70-80 retail, ECBP represents incredible value in the ever-crazier bourbon world. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Elijah Craig Barrel Proof: B520 vs A122 Elijah Craig Barrel Proof (ECBP) is one of my favorite bourbons. Heaven Hill, the distillery for Elijah Craig, releases ECBP three times per year (January, May, September), with a four-character code: January is “A1” (A for first release; 1 for the month of January); May is “B2” (B for the second release; 5 for the month of May); and September is “C3” (C for the third release; 9 for the month of September). The second two characters correspond to the last two digits of a particular year. Thus “B520” is the second release, in May, in the year 2020. All ECBP have a 12-year age statement, and proof typically ranges from around 120 to nearly 140. Caveat bibitor. I pulled out B520 and A122 at random because I have them both open (I have most if not all releases going back four years or so). B520: Clear orange mahogany color. Powerful nose: noticeable ethanol (to be expected; this is barrel proof bourbon) almost struggles to be noticed in the explosion of olfactory elements: malted milk balls, freshly mown hay, maple syrup, creosote railroad ties, split oak, sweet pipe tobacco, and vanilla. (NB: nosed after the A122, there is a quite prevalent toasted marshmallow note). Penetrating mouthfeel is spearheaded with heat, with notes of sweet café Cubano, leather, and cigar tobacco, and cinnamon. Faint woody tannins and some vanilla on the medium-length finish. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. A122: Clear orange mahogany color; indistinguishable from the B520. Different nose: ethanol not as pronounced (120.8 vs B520’s 127.2); more grassier rather than hay; some coconut; chocolate-covered cherries; sweet pipe tobacco and toasted marshmallow like the B520; and pomander and red hots. Palate is more woody and leathery, with noticeable (pleasantly expected) heat, before finishing with lingering notes of coconut and vanilla. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. Different release years, different months, different proofs: the consistent (albeit slightly different) quality and hedonistic pleasure that both of these bottles affords illustrates why each release of ECBP goes into my inventory whether tasted already or not. Irrespective of release, bourbon afficionados can bank on a good pour. And at $70-80 retail, ECBP represents incredible value in the ever-crazier bourbon world. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

I have to chuckle sometimes at whisk(e)y "pairings" with food, which are more marketing or misguidedness than merited. There's no whisk(e)y that will ever pair better with a steak than a good cabernet; no whisk(e)y that will pair better with duck than a good pinot noir; no whisk(e)y that will pair better with fresh snapper than a nice unoaked chardonnay. But I digress. But to regress: I was having sushi tonight. Not time for bourbon. Not time for scotch (sherried, or peated, or both combined). Time for Japanese whisky. Specifically, Nikka Whisky From The Barrel, which was Whisky Advocate's 2018 Whisky of the Year. I've been a huge fan of this whisky since then (not because of the accolade; the 2019 winner, Dickel 13 Year Old Bottled-in-Bond, isn't even good enough for cocktails). Beautiful clear deep kumquat (citrus japonica; apropos). Complex nose shows orange zest, cigar, sandalwood, butterscotch, cocoa powder, leather, and some ginger. Some light viscosity on the palate, where the 51.4% ABV is present, not as a solo voice but in the chorus of flavors that carry over from the palate, finishing with light heat and a touch of vanilla. This is a bottle that I'll always have on hand. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

There's a reason why so many whiskies--all five scotch regions, American bourbon and whiskey, and Japanese whisky--employ sherry-cask finishing: because it imparts color, complexity, and complementary sweetness. Glendronach has been finishing in sherry casks for nearly two centuries. Glendro describes the color of the 18 as "bright deep gold with a tawny centre." Not to be pedantic and argue with the distillery, but: it's pretty dark. I'd call it tawny with deep gold edges. There's more darkness than brightness. But the distillery nails it on the first nose descriptor: fudge. The sherry influence is unmistakable, with brown sugar, frangipane, pomander, and spice cake. These aromas translate to similar flavors on the palate, along with subtle heat; the slightly higher than normal 46% ABV is well integrated. Sweet tobacco and leather round out the finish. The Distiller score of 84 by Stephanie Moreno is off the mark. Glendro 18 is a hedonistic, cerebral scotch that gives a pleasurable drinking experience and can be savored over an entire evening. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Liquid amber color. Sweet nose of caramel, oranges, apple pie, oak, leather, and vanilla. In contradistinction to the Knob Creek 12-Year Small Batch tasted immediately prior, and despite the much higher proof (117 vs KC12 100), Old Ezra comes across as balanced on the palate, and not nearly as hot. Whereas the KC12's palate was mostly heat, the Old Ezra has noticeable flavors of caramel and pipe tobacco preceding cinnamon red hots. There's a nice sweet vanilla finish with an orange tang. This bottle is about 2/3 gone; I've not had any in several months. While I'd made no explicit notes previously, I recalled liking, but not loving it. Tonight I'm loving it; this could also be a commentary on the KC12's bitterness and disjointedness that preceded it. As I recall, I picked up my two bottles in West Virginia a few years back. I'll definitely be looking to replenish my inventory when this stock gets low. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Widely available 12-year old bourbons are increasingly uncommon, and Knob Creek 12-Year Small Batch bourbon has little everyday competition in that space. As a result, all else being equal, it is saddled with higher expectations than NAS bottlings. Clear teak color. Nose shows cherries, marzipan, nutmeg, cedar, and a pinch of muddled mint. The 100 proof comes across strong on the palate, buttressed with oak, finishing with some woody, somewhat bitter tannins, and lingering oak. I'm unaware of the char levels of Knob Creek's barrels, but I'd prefer a higher char to mitigate some of the woody tannins. This is not a sipper for me, and there are cheaper (and good) alternatives for a Manhattan or Old Fashioned. Perhaps on the rocks on a hot summer day (which I never do anyway). Once gone, I won't be keeping this on one hand. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Fortunately, Wild Turkey as a distillery doesn't have the cachet of Buffalo Trace or even Heaven Hill--and I hope it stays that way. Two of WT's offerings--Russell's Reserve Single Barrel, and Rare Breed--offer some of the best bourbon value out there on a price-per-proof basis. Clear dark copper. Nose shows caramel, mulled apple cider, Chinese five spice, cherry nougat, and a whiff of vanilla. On the palate, the sneaky 110 proof is well integrated, flanked by leather, cedar, and tobacco notes. Silky finish, with lingering vanilla. The heat, like a fine cabernet, is of the iron-fist-in-a-silken-glove variety. Although there's no age statement, the woody notes suggest 8+ years in barrel. Irrespective of age, this is damn good bourbon, and a heck of a value. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Those of us of a certain age no doubt remember Orson Welles as a pitchman for Paul Masson wine: "We will sell no wine...before it's time." Setting aside the irony that this wine in the 70s was not too far removed from two-buck chuck, the catchphrase serves as a reminder that some things cannot be rushed--and aged whisk(e)y is one such thing. Afficionados debate what the ideal age for whisk(e)y may be (years for bourbon are "faster" than years for scotch due to the warmer climate), but for me there is little debate that Weller 12 hits the sweet spot. Like its younger cousin Blanton's, Weller 12 is refined, sure-footed, and smooth: it does its job well without fanfare. But this urbane utilitarianism and unpretentious seamlessness is what sets it apart. Clear mahogany color. Fruity nose with ripe peaches, dried apple slices, chocolate covered cherries, rosin, sawdust, and cocoa powder. Upon entry the 90 proof punches appropriately like a welterweight, with a slightly viscous mouthfeel, and a palate with orange pith undergirded with some woody tannins. White pepper and vanilla on the finish. Weller 12 is currently one of my top-5 bourbons (others being W.L. Weller, Elijah Craig 18, Old Forester Birthday Bourbon, and most bottlings of Elijah Craig Barrel Proof). I traded for a fair amount of it a few years ago with an ever-appreciating stock of Hibiki 12, and I'll buy it when I see it as long as it's well below secondary prices--at least, that is, until my inventory runs out. Then I'll have to pay up. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Pale mahogany color. Nose of honey, chocolate brownies, oranges, vanilla. Palate begins with spicy heat (95 proof) and a touch of bitterness, finishing with cocoa powder and some lingering vanilla. No identifying marks or scars in perp parlance; monolithic and middle-of-the-road. Not bad, but a terrible value. If you're in the neighborhood, I'll gladly give you a pour! I don't remember what I paid for this; but I do recall that it was a package deal (William Larue Weller, Weller Full Proof, Weller CYPB, Weller 12, Weller 107, and Weller Special Reserve). It wasn't cheap. This is more of a "label wh0re" bourbon; it's just not as good as the hype. For the true afficionado, it's something that needs to be tried due to the hype alone, but it's not something that should be sought out on its own merits. In the aforementioned list, CYPB is probably my least favorite (WSR isn't that "special," but expectations are much lower). WLW is of course in a league of its own; W12 is my second favorite, followed by the W107, WFP, WSR, and finally, CYPB. As to the heat, I'm a big fan of high-test bourbon. In this case the proof isn't that high, but its expression is out of sync with the other elements. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Deep, dark amber color. Fragrant, complex, and fruity nose shows peaches and apple pie, saddle leather, freshly split oak, vanilla, and noticeable but pleasant heat. The heat (96.4 proof) takes a leading role on the palate, with pepper, some woody and slightly bitter tannins, and a touch of cooling menthol. Brief vanilla on the finish. Kentucky Owl Confiscated merits attention: it holds its own in terms of aromatics, but doesn't follow through as strongly with its flavor profile and finish. It's pleasant to drink, but not a great value. It retails around $130 here in CT; I was able to purchase this from a friend of a friend's liquor store for about half that. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.