Tastes
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WHISKIES I DON’T CARE FOR: ROUND 1 Flatboat Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey vs Few Bourbon Whiskey Lately I’ve been doing several side-by-side tastings. I have plenty of whisk(e)y that I love—probably too much—but I’ve also got some that I don’t care for, so I thought I’d mix it up and try to discern just what I don’t like about them. My mental shelving of them into the “not like” category means that they’ve been in the penalty box for some time; thus it’s instructive to ascertain whether or not they belonged there to begin with. The whiskies I selected for round one were selected randomly; they happened to be two that I recalled not liking. Unlike some of my other showdowns (Islay, BTAC, etc.), this side-by-side tasting has nothing to do with a specific region or type—these two whiskies do happen to be bourbons, by coincidence—but are simply two that I haven’t drunk much (if any) of because I didn’t care for them to begin with. Flatboat Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey- Flatboat is a private-label brand owned by Sazerac, who manufactures not just Buffalo Trace but Canadian Mist, Myers Rum, Mr. Boston Vodka, and Fireball, to name a few. The salesman where I was shopping at the time sold me on the Buffalo Trace connection, and it was only $22 or so. I bought it and tried it once at least three years ago, and it has remained untouched since then. There’s little information on the label other than the fact that it’s “Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey” and 90 proof. And since there’s no age statement on the bottle, it has to have been aged at least four years. Classic clear tawny orange color. Nose shows a lot of ethanol for 90 proof, along with oaky vanilla, some cinnamon, roasted marshmallow, and cherry pipe tobacco. But the quintet is not playing well together, with the ethanol at center stage and the other aspects competing rather than complementing. On the palate the harsh and undisciplined 90 proof wreaks havoc like an unruly child punching above its weight. There are persistent woody tannins on the finish, which is overcome somewhat by the vanilla and cherry pipe tobacco. Disjointed, but not undrinkable. May work with lots of ice on a hot summer day, or as part of a punch or other drink where the bourbon is only a secondary ingredient. Not good for drinking neat, nor in a Manhattan or Old Fashioned. 2.5 on the Distiller scale. Few Bourbon Whiskey More orangey color than the Flatboat. Nose shows sawdust, old Fruity Pebbles cereal, a petroleum-paraffin quality, and dish soap. The wood is more like pine than oak. The dish soap continues on the palate, like a punishment in search of the bad words that precipitated it. I received this as a gift, and while I greatly appreciate the gesture, it’s just not that good. Not a lot of bourbon typicity. There is a tannic dryness on the finish. The drink does coerce you to pause to try to identify what’s going on with the same kind of curious morbidity surrounding a car wreck. Turns out I was correct in my initial assessment. The bottle says it is aged “at least one year in charred new oak barrels.” Well, yes; to be called bourbon it has to be in new charred oak barrels. Apparently this bottle is no longer available; the website does show a Straight Bourbon Whiskey, which by definition must be aged at least two years. 93 proof. 1.5 on the Distiller scale.
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Macallan 18 Year Sherry Oak Cask
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed August 10, 2022 (edited September 1, 2023)Iconic It seems to have become fashionable for whisky afficionados to diss Macallan--especially Macallan 18. It ain't cheap. It's a mainstay for suits in expense-account steakhouses, many of whom are not only oblivious to its sublimity but also to the scarcity of a spirit that has taken 18 years to mature. In spite of this, it is a force to be reckoned with, and no serious whisky drinker can ignore it. Serenity Prayer time, ladies and gents: you may think it is overpriced, or has snob appeal, or is not as good as X, Y, or Z. But it is a benchmark over which you have no control, so God grant you the wisdom to accept this fact that you cannot change, because it cannot be overlooked. Beautiful deep tawny orange color. Generous nose shows golden raisins, dates, brown sugar, spice cake, orange oil, and vanilla. Soft, viscous mouthfeel, subtle spice, a little ginger, and some espresso flavors on the long finish. Serious, elegant, and seamless. 4.5+ on the Distiller scale. -
Ardbeg Corryvreckan
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed August 6, 2022 (edited September 19, 2022)ISLAY SHOWDOWN 3: CASK STRENGTH DIVISION Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength vs Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood vs Ardbeg Corryvreckan Tasting whiskies side-by-side is both fun and enlightening: you think you know a particular one pretty well, and when tasted next to something else, well—it can change its colors. In this, the third installment of my Islay showdown (see “NEW AND OLD ISLAY SHOWDOWN: Lagavulin 8 vs Laphroaig 10”, 7/27/22; and “ISLAY SHOWDOWN 2: HEAVYWEIGHT DIVISION”, 7/29/22), we look at three high-octane bottlings: Laphroaig Cask Strength; Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood; and Ardbeg Corrvreckan. As I’ve already done Ardbeg Corryvreckan vs Uigeadail (6/2/22), I didn’t want to include both, and excluded the Oogie due to its higher sherry finish, which is slightly more atypical of Islay. I would’ve liked to have not had two Laphroaigs, but my other Islay whiskies aren’t cash strength (something I’ll need to rectify). I’m not a fan of adding water to cask strength bourbons: in fact, I never do it. There are two broad reasons for this. First is the fact that distillers themselves don’t do it. If a distiller does offer different versions of the same whisky, it is just two—the difference being only the amount of water used to dilute the cask-strength offering (if an offering even exists) to the “normal” or “standard” bottling. Let’s use Laphroaig 10 as an example: the Cask Strength (batch 013) is 57.9% ABV, while the “normal” Laphroaig 10 is simply the cash strength diluted with water to 43% ABV. If Laphroaig—or any other distiller—wanted to showcase different amounts of dilution to see how varying amounts “opens it up,” they could have a marketing field day and offer 46%, 49%, 52%, 55%, and then the normal cask strength to put these dilutions—that’s what they are—on full display. While this may be an extreme example, finding the optimal ABV (i.e., dilution) could be done behind the scenes. Laphroaig’s Distillery Manager, Barry MacAffer, could determine this to optimize the whisky’s distinct characteristic. Obviously the ideal is not the 43% ABV version: 43% is just a commonplace number amongst numerous distillers that is somewhat above the bare minimum to give an impression of “quality,” signaling that they’re not focused entirely on economics. Nor is the ideal necessarily the cask-strength version. If adding some water to cask strength whisky “opens it up,” why wouldn’t the distiller decide how much water provides the optimal complexity and flavor profile, and then offer 1) a cask-strength version for the purist, 2) a “lower end” version to maximize economics for the masses, and 3) an optimized ABV which the distiller defines as ideal (and further, this is another deft marketing stroke as it would invariably change year to year). Second, when a consumer adds water, it is being done entirely subjectively, with no rhyme or reason, whether it is dropped meticulously with a medicine dropper, or splashed by pouring a bit of water or even dipping one’s fingers in water and flicking it in. Not only is the amount of water subjective, but the amount of whisky that is being adulterated typically isn’t known either, and thus the ratio (i.e., ABV) is nothing but a guess. And don’t even get me started with ice, which is double jeopardy: not only is the amount of (frozen) water not known, but cooling the spirit dampens the flavor profile (both taste and nose). It’s simple physics: molecules in motion. Colder temperature slows them down, which diminishes whatever the whisky does have to offer. Of course, drinkers are free to imbibe as they please. Lahphroaig 10 Cask Strength Batch 013 (L10CS) First thought on nosing was apples—distilled apple resin—followed by molasses, clove, rosemary-infused grapefruit sorbet (melted to room temperature), cocoa powder, orange creamsicle (distilled nectar thereof), maple syrup, some oaky vanilla, and some balanced ethanol. There’s smoky peat, of course. And the requisite iodine and seaweed. The heat (57.9% ABV) appears again midpalate where a more medicinal characteristic pops up, and everything is put in a blender that somehow pulls everything together into an inexplicable whole. Finishes with malted barley and bacon fat. On the orgasmic spectrum. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood (LCTW) In contradistinction to the L10CS, this is NAS (no age statement). Much sweeter nose with smoky peat caramel, vanilla, sugared cappuccino, brown sugar, milk chocolate. This sweetness follows on the palate, where the heat is more noticeable than the L10CS: it is a couple of percentage points higher, but the multiple variations on the sweet theme doesn’t do as good a job of taming the heat as does the heterogenous complexity of the L10CS. There is a slight sherry-influenced hazelnut on the finish, along with some tannic woodiness. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Ardbeg Corryvreckan (AC) NAS, like the LCTW. Lightest in color of the three, with a clear straw color. Surprisingly bready and barley-like in comparison to the previous two. Also smoked ham, the “Islay troika” (smoky peat, seaweed, iodine), and an underlying sweetness but all of it is subtle in comparison (did anyone ever call anything Ardbeg “subtle”?!). More high-throttle and Ardbeg-like on the palate, but lacking the ostentatiousness of the L10CS and LCTW. Finishes sweet and heat, with a little pepper. 4.0 on the Distiller scale (vs 4.5 previously). Ardbeg Corryvreckan is a well-known (and well-loved) Islay whisky. But next to these two Laphroaigs, it is not what I expected. I did a side-by-side with Ardbeg Corryvreckan and Uigeadial some weeks back (6/2/22). It’s worth repeating here what I wrote on AC: “Nose shows plenty of smoky peat, Islay iodine and salinity, Japanese nori, asphalt, and a touch of bacon fat. There is a penetrating, mouthcoating entry, adding chocolate to the mix, and with a spicy, white pepper finish. The 57.1% ABV is a nice counterweight to Corry’s full-throttle style.” Next to the two Laphroaigs, AC is a different whisky. This is my first experience with the Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength, and will not be my last. It’s the clear winner in the showdown, and it’s hard to imagine improving upon it. The Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood is a very nice second, some distance back, but nicely sweet for an Islay whisky. The Ardbeg disappointed in comparison. It’s still good, but down a couple notches when last tasted against its sweeter brother, Uigeadial. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Laphroaig Càirdeas 2019 Triple Wood Cask Strength
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed August 6, 2022 (edited August 12, 2022)ISLAY SHOWDOWN 3: CASK STRENGTH DIVISION Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength vs Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood vs Ardbeg Corryvreckan Tasting whiskies side-by-side is both fun and enlightening: you think you know a particular one pretty well, and when tasted next to something else, well—it can change its colors. In this, the third installment of my Islay showdown (see “NEW AND OLD ISLAY SHOWDOWN: Lagavulin 8 vs Laphroaig 10”, 7/27/22; and “ISLAY SHOWDOWN 2: HEAVYWEIGHT DIVISION”, 7/29/22), we look at three high-octane bottlings: Laphroaig Cask Strength; Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood; and Ardbeg Corrvreckan. As I’ve already done Ardbeg Corryvreckan vs Uigeadail (6/2/22), I didn’t want to include both, and excluded the Oogie due to its higher sherry finish, which is slightly more atypical of Islay. I would’ve liked to have not had two Laphroaigs, but my other Islay whiskies aren’t cash strength (something I’ll need to rectify). I’m not a fan of adding water to cask strength bourbons: in fact, I never do it. There are two broad reasons for this. First is the fact that distillers themselves don’t do it. If a distiller does offer different versions of the same whisky, it is just two—the difference being only the amount of water used to dilute the cask-strength offering (if an offering even exists) to the “normal” or “standard” bottling. Let’s use Laphroaig 10 as an example: the Cask Strength (batch 013) is 57.9% ABV, while the “normal” Laphroaig 10 is simply the cash strength diluted with water to 43% ABV. If Laphroaig—or any other distiller—wanted to showcase different amounts of dilution to see how varying amounts “opens it up,” they could have a marketing field day and offer 46%, 49%, 52%, 55%, and then the normal cask strength to put these dilutions—that’s what they are—on full display. While this may be an extreme example, finding the optimal ABV (i.e., dilution) could be done behind the scenes. Laphroaig’s Distillery Manager, Barry MacAffer, could determine this to optimize the whisky’s distinct characteristic. Obviously the ideal is not the 43% ABV version: 43% is just a commonplace number amongst numerous distillers that is somewhat above the bare minimum to give an impression of “quality,” signaling that they’re not focused entirely on economics. Nor is the ideal necessarily the cask-strength version. If adding some water to cask strength whisky “opens it up,” why wouldn’t the distiller decide how much water provides the optimal complexity and flavor profile, and then offer 1) a cask-strength version for the purist, 2) a “lower end” version to maximize economics for the masses, and 3) an optimized ABV which the distiller defines as ideal (and further, this is another deft marketing stroke as it would invariably change year to year). Second, when a consumer adds water, it is being done entirely subjectively, with no rhyme or reason, whether it is dropped meticulously with a medicine dropper, or splashed by pouring a bit of water or even dipping one’s fingers in water and flicking it in. Not only is the amount of water subjective, but the amount of whisky that is being adulterated typically isn’t known either, and thus the ratio (i.e., ABV) is nothing but a guess. And don’t even get me started with ice, which is double jeopardy: not only is the amount of (frozen) water not known, but cooling the spirit dampens the flavor profile (both taste and nose). It’s simple physics: molecules in motion. Colder temperature slows them down, which diminishes whatever the whisky does have to offer. Of course, drinkers are free to imbibe as they please. Lahphroaig 10 Cask Strength Batch 013 (L10CS) First thought on nosing was apples—distilled apple resin—followed by molasses, clove, rosemary-infused grapefruit sorbet (melted to room temperature), cocoa powder, orange creamsicle (distilled nectar thereof), maple syrup, some oaky vanilla, and some balanced ethanol. There’s smoky peat, of course. And the requisite iodine and seaweed. The heat (57.9% ABV) appears again midpalate where a more medicinal characteristic pops up, and everything is put in a blender that somehow pulls everything together into an inexplicable whole. Finishes with malted barley and bacon fat. On the orgasmic spectrum. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood (LCTW) In contradistinction to the L10CS, this is NAS (no age statement). Much sweeter nose with smoky peat caramel, vanilla, sugared cappuccino, brown sugar, milk chocolate. This sweetness follows on the palate, where the heat is more noticeable than the L10CS: it is a couple of percentage points higher, but the multiple variations on the sweet theme doesn’t do as good a job of taming the heat as does the heterogenous complexity of the L10CS. There is a slight sherry-influenced hazelnut on the finish, along with some tannic woodiness. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Ardbeg Corryvreckan (AC) NAS, like the LCTW. Lightest in color of the three, with a clear straw color. Surprisingly bready and barley-like in comparison to the previous two. Also smoked ham, the “Islay troika” (smoky peat, seaweed, iodine), and an underlying sweetness but all of it is subtle in comparison (did anyone ever call anything Ardbeg “subtle”?!). More high-throttle and Ardbeg-like on the palate, but lacking the ostentatiousness of the L10CS and LCTW. Finishes sweet and heat, with a little pepper. 4.0 on the Distiller scale (vs 4.5 previously). Ardbeg Corryvreckan is a well-known (and well-loved) Islay whisky. But next to these two Laphroaigs, it is not what I expected. I did a side-by-side with Ardbeg Corryvreckan and Uigeadial some weeks back (6/2/22). It’s worth repeating here what I wrote on AC: “Nose shows plenty of smoky peat, Islay iodine and salinity, Japanese nori, asphalt, and a touch of bacon fat. There is a penetrating, mouthcoating entry, adding chocolate to the mix, and with a spicy, white pepper finish. The 57.1% ABV is a nice counterweight to Corry’s full-throttle style.” Next to the two Laphroaigs, AC is a different whisky. This is my first experience with the Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength, and will not be my last. It’s the clear winner in the showdown, and it’s hard to imagine improving upon it. The Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood is a very nice second, some distance back, but nicely sweet for an Islay whisky. The Ardbeg disappointed in comparison. It’s still good, but down a couple notches when last tasted against its sweeter brother, Uigeadial. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Laphroaig 10 Year Cask Strength (Batch 13)
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed August 6, 2022 (edited August 12, 2022)ISLAY SHOWDOWN 3: CASK STRENGTH DIVISION Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength vs Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood vs Ardbeg Corryvreckan Tasting whiskies side-by-side is both fun and enlightening: you think you know a particular one pretty well, and when tasted next to something else, well—it can change its colors. In this, the third installment of my Islay showdown (see “NEW AND OLD ISLAY SHOWDOWN: Lagavulin 8 vs Laphroaig 10”, 7/27/22; and “ISLAY SHOWDOWN 2: HEAVYWEIGHT DIVISION”, 7/29/22), we look at three high-octane bottlings: Laphroaig Cask Strength; Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood; and Ardbeg Corrvreckan. As I’ve already done Ardbeg Corryvreckan vs Uigeadail (6/2/22), I didn’t want to include both, and excluded the Oogie due to its higher sherry finish, which is slightly more atypical of Islay. I would’ve liked to have not had two Laphroaigs, but my other Islay whiskies aren’t cash strength (something I’ll need to rectify). I’m not a fan of adding water to cask strength bourbons: in fact, I never do it. There are two broad reasons for this. First is the fact that distillers themselves don’t do it. If a distiller does offer different versions of the same whisky, it is just two—the difference being only the amount of water used to dilute the cask-strength offering (if an offering even exists) to the “normal” or “standard” bottling. Let’s use Laphroaig 10 as an example: the Cask Strength (batch 013) is 57.9% ABV, while the “normal” Laphroaig 10 is simply the cash strength diluted with water to 43% ABV. If Laphroaig—or any other distiller—wanted to showcase different amounts of dilution to see how varying amounts “opens it up,” they could have a marketing field day and offer 46%, 49%, 52%, 55%, and then the normal cask strength to put these dilutions—that’s what they are—on full display. While this may be an extreme example, finding the optimal ABV (i.e., dilution) could be done behind the scenes. Laphroaig’s Distillery Manager, Barry MacAffer, could determine this to optimize the whisky’s distinct characteristic. Obviously the ideal is not the 43% ABV version: 43% is just a commonplace number amongst numerous distillers that is somewhat above the bare minimum to give an impression of “quality,” signaling that they’re not focused entirely on economics. Nor is the ideal necessarily the cask-strength version. If adding some water to cask strength whisky “opens it up,” why wouldn’t the distiller decide how much water provides the optimal complexity and flavor profile, and then offer 1) a cask-strength version for the purist, 2) a “lower end” version to maximize economics for the masses, and 3) an optimized ABV which the distiller defines as ideal (and further, this is another deft marketing stroke as it would invariably change year to year). Second, when a consumer adds water, it is being done entirely subjectively, with no rhyme or reason, whether it is dropped meticulously with a medicine dropper, or splashed by pouring a bit of water or even dipping one’s fingers in water and flicking it in. Not only is the amount of water subjective, but the amount of whisky that is being adulterated typically isn’t known either, and thus the ratio (i.e., ABV) is nothing but a guess. And don’t even get me started with ice, which is double jeopardy: not only is the amount of (frozen) water not known, but cooling the spirit dampens the flavor profile (both taste and nose). It’s simple physics: molecules in motion. Colder temperature slows them down, which diminishes whatever the whisky does have to offer. Of course, drinkers are free to imbibe as they please. Lahphroaig 10 Cask Strength Batch 013 (L10CS) First thought on nosing was apples—distilled apple resin—followed by molasses, clove, rosemary-infused grapefruit sorbet (melted to room temperature), cocoa powder, orange creamsicle (distilled nectar thereof), maple syrup, some oaky vanilla, and some balanced ethanol. There’s smoky peat, of course. And the requisite iodine and seaweed. The heat (57.9% ABV) appears again midpalate where a more medicinal characteristic pops up, and everything is put in a blender that somehow pulls everything together into an inexplicable whole. Finishes with malted barley and bacon fat. On the orgasmic spectrum. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood (LCTW) In contradistinction to the L10CS, this is NAS (no age statement). Much sweeter nose with smoky peat caramel, vanilla, sugared cappuccino, brown sugar, milk chocolate. This sweetness follows on the palate, where the heat is more noticeable than the L10CS: it is a couple of percentage points higher, but the multiple variations on the sweet theme doesn’t do as good a job of taming the heat as does the heterogenous complexity of the L10CS. There is a slight sherry-influenced hazelnut on the finish, along with some tannic woodiness. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Ardbeg Corryvreckan (AC) NAS, like the LCTW. Lightest in color of the three, with a clear straw color. Surprisingly bready and barley-like in comparison to the previous two. Also smoked ham, the “Islay troika” (smoky peat, seaweed, iodine), and an underlying sweetness but all of it is subtle in comparison (did anyone ever call anything Ardbeg “subtle”?!). More high-throttle and Ardbeg-like on the palate, but lacking the ostentatiousness of the L10CS and LCTW. Finishes sweet and heat, with a little pepper. 4.0 on the Distiller scale (vs 4.5 previously). Ardbeg Corryvreckan is a well-known (and well-loved) Islay whisky. But next to these two Laphroaigs, it is not what I expected. I did a side-by-side with Ardbeg Corryvreckan and Uigeadial some weeks back (6/2/22). It’s worth repeating here what I wrote on AC: “Nose shows plenty of smoky peat, Islay iodine and salinity, Japanese nori, asphalt, and a touch of bacon fat. There is a penetrating, mouthcoating entry, adding chocolate to the mix, and with a spicy, white pepper finish. The 57.1% ABV is a nice counterweight to Corry’s full-throttle style.” Next to the two Laphroaigs, AC is a different whisky. This is my first experience with the Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength, and will not be my last. It’s the clear winner in the showdown, and it’s hard to imagine improving upon it. The Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood is a very nice second, some distance back, but nicely sweet for an Islay whisky. The Ardbeg disappointed in comparison. It’s still good, but down a couple notches when last tasted against its sweeter brother, Uigeadial. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Bushmills 10 Year Single Malt
Single Malt — Ireland
Reviewed August 4, 2022 (edited December 15, 2022)Light clear gold color. Sweet honeyed nose along with a key-lime-pie-with-graham-cracker-crust note, with a little menthol coolness. Sweetness continues on the palate, with some similarity to a Hall’s honey-lemon cough drop—in this regard, flavor profile is very similar to my recollection of Nikka Coffey Malt Whisky (not Nikka Coffee Grain Whisky, which is not dissimilar to bourbon). This same note continues on the finish, where the light 40% ABV becomes apparent, and again shows a menthol coolness. Not complex, with the same note or two being struck on nose, midpalate, and finish—but sweet and easy drinking, if unusual with the menthol coolness. I need to taste this side-by-side with the Nikka Coffey Malt to test my taste memory; perhaps tomorrow. 2.5 on the Distiller scale. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
ISLAY SHOWDOWN 2: HEAVYWEIGHT DIVISION Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition vs Lagavulin 16 vs Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition In my last note, “NEW AND OLD ISLAY SHOWDOWN,” I envisioned a comparison between two old flames: Laphroaig 10 and Lagavulin 16. Then I thought the comparison wasn’t apples-to-apples due to the age difference, and I subbed the Lag16 with Lagavulin 8. So today, I bring out some big(ger) guns—all very close in age. Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition was a limited edition bottling (72,000 released) introduced on the 200th anniversary of Laphroaig’s founding in 1815 (Laphroaig previously had a 15-year-old whisky in its lineup which was discontinued). Lagavulin 16 needs no introduction. And the Lagavulin Distiller’s edition is Lag16 “double matured” and finished in PX sherry casks; this particular bottle is batch 4/507, distilled 2002, bottled 2018. Each is 43% ABV. Lagavulin 16 is, of course, an iconic whisky, and there’s nothing new that I’ll provide here. This is true to a lesser extent with the Distiller’s Edition. The Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition is a very limited bottling, and I hope to offer some vicarious insight. My primary purpose here is to build on my previous “Islay Showdown” note, share a side-by-side comparison, and have some fun in the process. Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition Color is lightest of the three; clear pale amber. Laphroaig’s tagline is “The most richly flavoured of all Scotch whiskies”; but this one, despite the increased age, is more subdued than its younger brother was last night. Fruity peach nose and some baking spices coupled with typical Islay notes of seaweed and smoky peat, with just a whiff of iodine. Peaks on the palate, where the mild 43% ABV punches above its weight. Gentle smoky peat with a touch of vanilla on the finish. In terms of intensity: mild nose, peaks midpalate, and mild finish. From a bourbon perspective, this is the Blanton’s or Elmer T. Lee of Islay whisky: seamless, refined, even subtle, but confident in what it is. And what it is it does very well. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. Lagavulin 16 Color is a tawny amber, deeper and somewhat darker than the Laph15. There’s little I can provide that isn’t already known about such an iconic whiskey, and if you’re reading this, you already this. For me, the nose is not particularly effusive, but swirling coaxes a host of aromas: along with Islay typicity, there is a citrus sweetness not unlike Licor 43, and even a tanginess that could pass for Heinz 57 (!). Smoky peat on the long finish. The same 43% ABV is not as noticeable as it was with the Laph15/200; this could be a function of the more mellow (though still very complex) tones of the Laph15/200, or the slightly more pronounced olfactory and flavor attributes of Lag16. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition Darkest of the three due to the sherry cask finishing. On the nose, the sherry casks have a dampening (but not suppressing) effect on the seaweed, iodine, and smokey peat, adding complexity with hazelnut, dates, and some brown sugar. Despite being the same 43% ABV as the others, the heat is slightly more noticeable than its Lag16 sibling. Slightly weightier mouthfeel. Everything in balance, with more components. Just outstanding. For context: in the sherry-meets-Islay world, this is a Porsche 911 Turbo S in GT Silver Metallic, whereas Ardbeg Uigeadail is a Ferrari LaFerrari in Rosso Corsa: both incredible automobiles, but the former is more refined. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. If you’ve read this far, there’s really no winner here. This is not an “everyone gets a trophy” space—except it is, in this case. Each is phenomenal in its own right. These whiskies are not facsimilies of one another; there is diversity even in the confines of Islay whisky. On a value basis, Lag16 is the clear winner. It is widely available in the U.S. and can typically be found for around $90. The Distiller’s Edition has more limited production, and can be found for $110-120 in the U.S. The Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition was a limited edition, and can be found online for around $300 in the U.S. (I think I paid about a third of that a few years ago). While there are Islay-specific similarities between the three, they exhibit real differences, but no hard edges or deficiencies when tasted side-by-side. Each is deserving of contemplative, unadulterated consumption. Forget water; this is 43% ABV. Drink it neat. Nose it. Swirl it. Savor it. Enjoy it. Share it. And be thankful for it. In a word: Laphroaig 15/200: Peachy. Lagavulin 16: Outdoorsy. Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition: Urbane. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.
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Lagavulin Distillers Edition
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed July 29, 2022 (edited August 28, 2022)ISLAY SHOWDOWN 2: HEAVYWEIGHT DIVISION Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition vs Lagavulin 16 vs Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition In my last note, “NEW AND OLD ISLAY SHOWDOWN,” I envisioned a comparison between two old flames: Laphroaig 10 and Lagavulin 16. Then I thought the comparison wasn’t apples-to-apples due to the age difference, and I subbed the Lag16 with Lagavulin 8. So today, I bring out some big(ger) guns—all very close in age. Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition was a limited edition bottling (72,000 released) introduced on the 200th anniversary of Laphroaig’s founding in 1815 (Laphroaig previously had a 15-year-old whisky in its lineup which was discontinued). Lagavulin 16 needs no introduction. And the Lagavulin Distiller’s edition is Lag16 “double matured” and finished in PX sherry casks; this particular bottle is batch 4/507, distilled 2002, bottled 2018. Each is 43% ABV. Lagavulin 16 is, of course, an iconic whisky, and there’s nothing new that I’ll provide here. This is true to a lesser extent with the Distiller’s Edition. The Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition is a very limited bottling, and I hope to offer some vicarious insight. My primary purpose here is to build on my previous “Islay Showdown” note, share a side-by-side comparison, and have some fun in the process. Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition Color is lightest of the three; clear pale amber. Laphroaig’s tagline is “The most richly flavoured of all Scotch whiskies”; but this one, despite the increased age, is more subdued than its younger brother was last night. Fruity peach nose and some baking spices coupled with typical Islay notes of seaweed and smoky peat, with just a whiff of iodine. Peaks on the palate, where the mild 43% ABV punches above its weight. Gentle smoky peat with a touch of vanilla on the finish. In terms of intensity: mild nose, peaks midpalate, and mild finish. From a bourbon perspective, this is the Blanton’s or Elmer T. Lee of Islay whisky: seamless, refined, even subtle, but confident in what it is. And what it is it does very well. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. Lagavulin 16 Color is a tawny amber, deeper and somewhat darker than the Laph15. There’s little I can provide that isn’t already known about such an iconic whiskey, and if you’re reading this, you already this. For me, the nose is not particularly effusive, but swirling coaxes a host of aromas: along with Islay typicity, there is a citrus sweetness not unlike Licor 43, and even a tanginess that could pass for Heinz 57 (!). Smoky peat on the long finish. The same 43% ABV is not as noticeable as it was with the Laph15/200; this could be a function of the more mellow (though still very complex) tones of the Laph15/200, or the slightly more pronounced olfactory and flavor attributes of Lag16. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition Darkest of the three due to the sherry cask finishing. On the nose, the sherry casks have a dampening (but not suppressing) effect on the seaweed, iodine, and smokey peat, adding complexity with hazelnut, dates, and some brown sugar. Despite being the same 43% ABV as the others, the heat is slightly more noticeable than its Lag16 sibling. Slightly weightier mouthfeel. Everything in balance, with more components. Just outstanding. For context: in the sherry-meets-Islay world, this is a Porsche 911 Turbo S in GT Silver Metallic, whereas Ardbeg Uigeadail is a Ferrari LaFerrari in Rosso Corsa: both incredible automobiles, but the former is more refined. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. If you’ve read this far, there’s really no winner here. This is not an “everyone gets a trophy” space—except it is, in this case. Each is phenomenal in its own right. These whiskies are not facsimilies of one another; there is diversity even in the confines of Islay whisky. On a value basis, Lag16 is the clear winner. It is widely available in the U.S. and can typically be found for around $90. The Distiller’s Edition has more limited production, and can be found for $110-120 in the U.S. The Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition was a limited edition, and can be found online for around $300 in the U.S. (I think I paid about a third of that a few years ago). While there are Islay-specific similarities between the three, they exhibit real differences, but no hard edges or deficiencies when tasted side-by-side. Each is deserving of contemplative, unadulterated consumption. Forget water; this is 43% ABV. Drink it neat. Nose it. Swirl it. Savor it. Enjoy it. Share it. And be thankful for it. In a word: Laphroaig 15/200: Peachy. Lagavulin 16: Outdoorsy. Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition: Urbane. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
Laphroaig 15 Year 200th Anniversary
Single Malt — Islay , Scotland
Reviewed July 29, 2022 (edited March 20, 2023)ISLAY SHOWDOWN 2: HEAVYWEIGHT DIVISION Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition vs Lagavulin 16 vs Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition In my last note, “NEW AND OLD ISLAY SHOWDOWN,” I envisioned a comparison between two old flames: Laphroaig 10 and Lagavulin 16. Then I thought the comparison wasn’t apples-to-apples due to the age difference, and I subbed the Lag16 with Lagavulin 8. So today, I bring out some big(ger) guns—all very close in age. Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition was a limited edition bottling (72,000 released) introduced on the 200th anniversary of Laphroaig’s founding in 1815 (Laphroaig previously had a 15-year-old whisky in its lineup which was discontinued). Lagavulin 16 needs no introduction. And the Lagavulin Distiller’s edition is Lag16 “double matured” and finished in PX sherry casks; this particular bottle is batch 4/507, distilled 2002, bottled 2018. Each is 43% ABV. Lagavulin 16 is, of course, an iconic whisky, and there’s nothing new that I’ll provide here. This is true to a lesser extent with the Distiller’s Edition. The Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition is a very limited bottling, and I hope to offer some vicarious insight. My primary purpose here is to build on my previous “Islay Showdown” note, share a side-by-side comparison, and have some fun in the process. Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition Color is lightest of the three; clear pale amber. Laphroaig’s tagline is “The most richly flavoured of all Scotch whiskies”; but this one, despite the increased age, is more subdued than its younger brother was last night. Fruity peach nose and some baking spices coupled with typical Islay notes of seaweed and smoky peat, with just a whiff of iodine. Peaks on the palate, where the mild 43% ABV punches above its weight. Gentle smoky peat with a touch of vanilla on the finish. In terms of intensity: mild nose, peaks midpalate, and mild finish. From a bourbon perspective, this is the Blanton’s or Elmer T. Lee of Islay whisky: seamless, refined, even subtle, but confident in what it is. And what it is it does very well. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. Lagavulin 16 Color is a tawny amber, deeper and somewhat darker than the Laph15. There’s little I can provide that isn’t already known about such an iconic whiskey, and if you’re reading this, you already this. For me, the nose is not particularly effusive, but swirling coaxes a host of aromas: along with Islay typicity, there is a citrus sweetness not unlike Licor 43, and even a tanginess that could pass for Heinz 57 (!). Smoky peat on the long finish. The same 43% ABV is not as noticeable as it was with the Laph15/200; this could be a function of the more mellow (though still very complex) tones of the Laph15/200, or the slightly more pronounced olfactory and flavor attributes of Lag16. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition Darkest of the three due to the sherry cask finishing. On the nose, the sherry casks have a dampening (but not suppressing) effect on the seaweed, iodine, and smokey peat, adding complexity with hazelnut, dates, and some brown sugar. Despite being the same 43% ABV as the others, the heat is slightly more noticeable than its Lag16 sibling. Slightly weightier mouthfeel. Everything in balance, with more components. Just outstanding. For context: in the sherry-meets-Islay world, this is a Porsche 911 Turbo S in GT Silver Metallic, whereas Ardbeg Uigeadail is a Ferrari LaFerrari in Rosso Corsa: both incredible automobiles, but the former is more refined. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. If you’ve read this far, there’s really no winner here. This is not an “everyone gets a trophy” space—except it is, in this case. Each is phenomenal in its own right. These whiskies are not facsimilies of one another; there is diversity even in the confines of Islay whisky. On a value basis, Lag16 is the clear winner. It is widely available in the U.S. and can typically be found for around $90. The Distiller’s Edition has more limited production, and can be found for $110-120 in the U.S. The Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition was a limited edition, and can be found online for around $300 in the U.S. (I think I paid about a third of that a few years ago). While there are Islay-specific similarities between the three, they exhibit real differences, but no hard edges or deficiencies when tasted side-by-side. Each is deserving of contemplative, unadulterated consumption. Forget water; this is 43% ABV. Drink it neat. Nose it. Swirl it. Savor it. Enjoy it. Share it. And be thankful for it. In a word: Laphroaig 15/200: Peachy. Lagavulin 16: Outdoorsy. Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition: Urbane. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. -
NEW AND OLD ISLAY SHOWDOWN: Lagavulin 8 vs Laphroaig 10 I cut my teeth on Lagavulin and Laphroaig decades ago. Since then, I’ve explored the myriad flavor profiles that Scotch whisky offers but have always come back to these two—my first loves. I was in the mood this evening to revisit these classic bottlings. But Laphroaig 10 is six years younger than Lagavulin 16; thus I thought a more appropriate comparison with Laph10 would be Lagavulin 8, which is a fairly new addition to the Lagavulin lineup, introduced in 2016 to celebrate the distillery’s 200th anniversary. Lagavulin 8 Light straw color. Nose shows Cheerios, bread dough, saline, low-tide seaweed stones, light smoky peat, the briefest whiff of bacon fat, nectarine, and a little honey. Fruitiness even more forward on the palate with nectarine appearing for a second act, along with a smooth mouthfeel, and some heat (higher than normal 48% ABV). Long finish has characteristic Islay typicity with some iodine and the same light smoky peat from the front end. Good, but it feels like it’s reaching for the Lagavulin 16 that has been seared (or soaked) into my brain over the years. 3.5 on the Distiller scale. Laphroaig 10 Clear gold. Sweet smoky peat; not just iodine, but the whole medicine cabinet; Italian speck; some vanilla; some pomander; some dates; and some more. Smoother on the palate than the Lag8, with noticeably lighter heat (43% ABV); did I mention rum raisin ice cream? It’s all there. Long, long finish. As traditional as Laphroaig 10 is, it would benefit from more ABV when tasted next to the Lag8. A cerebral, introspective dram that cries out for the Mad Men days of dark suits, white shirts, cigar smoke, and a mahogany bar with a brass footrail at an old-school steakhouse (I’m thinking Sparks in NYC). 4.25 on the Distiller scale. The Lag8 complements the older Lag16 (and the Distiller’s Edition) in the Lagavulin lineup: it is more youthful and ostentatious than the Laph10, which shows more complexity and refinement in comparison. The Lag8 is not dissimilar to Oban Little Bay in terms of its in-your-face youthfulness in the brand’s offerings. New or old, Islay afficionados will find plenty to like with both. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.
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