Tastes

No tasting notes, as I had this at a restaurant. But I was blown away. I've had the Green and Red, but not this. I've got to find some! 4.75 on the Distiller scale.

And now, a moment of silence: tonight is the end of the line for this bottle, which has been a favorite of mine since I first bought it shortly after it was released in 2021. I had never been a fan of Woodford Reserve until they began releasing their Master’s Collection series. The Batch Proof 123.2, released in 2019 and which unfortunately I was never able to properly review, was a favorite. This Five-Stouted Mash is another favorite, albeit for completely different reasons. Woodford describes the color as “antique orange,” which on the Pantone spectrum is about 159. The nose is amazing: tasted blind, one might initially believe this to be a Russian Imperial Stout—consistent with the stated intent of the master distiller. The nose shows mocha, Mexican mole, dark chocolate orange wedges, dried Ancho chiles, and vanilla. Rich, viscous mouthfeel, with cocoa powder and a light chile spice, before finishing with café Cubano, dark chocolate-covered coffee beans, and some vanilla. As I’ve noted in previous reviews, when I first tried the Five-Malt-Stouted Mash, I thought it would be a polarizing, love-it-or-hate-it whiskey. A not-statistically-significant sample size of two (myself and my good friend @ataylor156) confirmed this; I loved it, and he hated it. Which turned out to be a blessing, because it meant that I didn’t have to share any more with him. This is one of those whiskies that simply must be tried; it truly offers a uniquely hedonistic and intellectually satisfying whiskey experience. As incredible as this is, however, I can imagine it would be even better at a higher proof. I’m sad to see this one go. Actually, sobbing uncontrollably. An Internet search shows that this can be found for around $140. Would I buy this again? Yes. Unequivocally. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. 90.4 proof.

FOUR ROSES SHOWDOWN Four Roses Small Batch Select Four Roses Single Barrel (NS 52-1N) I don’t think Four Roses gets enough credit—including from me. A few years back, a local store used to carry Four Roses Barrel Strength Single Barrel Select, and I loved those (they aren’t referenced on the Four Roses website, so I don’t know if they’re still being produced, though they can still be found online). I’m a big fan of the still-somewhat-new Small Batch Select—though I hate saying it, because I don’t want the supply to dry up. And I’ve also enjoyed the various single barrel offerings. I currently have two in inventory: the Small Batch Select (previously reviewed 5/22/22), and this Single Barrel, which I’ve not yet reviewed. Two good candidates for another Showdown. Four Roses Small Batch Select Clear dried orange color, between Pantone 151 and 152. Fruity nose shows dried apricot, tart apple, toffee, sweet honey, Frosted Mini Wheats (despite no wheat in the mashbill), vanilla, a touch of white pepper, and spearmint. Palate shows more sweet toffee, sidestepping the predicted alcohol and moving towards cinnamon, char, white pepper, and vanilla. This might be the smoothest 104-proof bourbon I’ve ever had. But don’t conflate smoothness with simplicity: it’s no small feat to hide 104 proof points under a soft blanket, and there’s several descriptors vying for attention. I’d like to see this proofed up. Four Roses Small Batch Select can be found for under $60. Would I buy it again? Yes. Actually, I’d already done that the first time I tasted it. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. 104 proof. NAS (6-7 years, according to company website). Non-chill filtered. From recipes OBSV, OBSK, OBSF, OESV, OESK, OESF. Four Roses Single Barrel (NS 52-1N) Same clear dry orange Pantone 151/152 color. Nose shows carrot cake, dried orange, marzipan, apples, vanilla, and some spearmint. There’s a paraffin note that would be consistent with the longer wood aging. A bit of viscosity on the palate, with sweet orange and a pleasant Kentucky hug. There’s some rye spice on the finish, sweet espresso, black licorice, and a healthy dose of oaky vanilla. This Single Barrel is outstanding. It’s got everything: complexity, well-integrated proof, and an easy (and guiltless) drinkability. The various iterations can be found for under $50, which represents high relative value. Would I buy one again? Yes. No question. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. 100 proof. NAS (7-9 years, according to company website). Warehouse NS; Barrel 52-1N. I’ve been a big fan of the Small Batch Select as soon as it was introduced to the market. But I’m surprised that I’m rating this particular Single Barrel higher. Both of these bourbons are excellent, for different reasons. The Small Batch Select is sweet and subtly complex; it is balanced, smooth, and very enjoyable. The Single Barrel shows more differentiated complexity consistent with its longer time spent in barrel; the marginally lower proof also comes across more strongly—and this is a compliment. Both have a strong 100-104 proof, but I’d never use either of these in a cocktail. These are bourbons that are meant to be savored, slowly. N.B.: All spirts tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

FOUR ROSES SHOWDOWN Four Roses Small Batch Select Four Roses Single Barrel (NS 52-1N) I don’t think Four Roses gets enough credit—including from me. A few years back, a local store used to carry Four Roses Barrel Strength Single Barrel Select, and I loved those (they aren’t referenced on the Four Roses website, so I don’t know if they’re still being produced, though they can still be found online). I’m a big fan of the still-somewhat-new Small Batch Select—though I hate saying it, because I don’t want the supply to dry up. And I’ve also enjoyed the various single barrel offerings. I currently have two in inventory: the Small Batch Select (previously reviewed 5/22/22), and this Single Barrel, which I’ve not yet reviewed. Two good candidates for another Showdown. Four Roses Small Batch Select Clear dried orange color, between Pantone 151 and 152. Fruity nose shows dried apricot, tart apple, toffee, sweet honey, Frosted Mini Wheats (despite no wheat in the mashbill), vanilla, a touch of white pepper, and spearmint. Palate shows more sweet toffee, sidestepping the predicted alcohol and moving towards cinnamon, char, white pepper, and vanilla. This might be the smoothest 104-proof bourbon I’ve ever had. But don’t conflate smoothness with simplicity: it’s no small feat to hide 104 proof points under a soft blanket, and there’s several descriptors vying for attention. I’d like to see this proofed up. Four Roses Small Batch Select can be found for under $60. Would I buy it again? Yes. Actually, I’d already done that the first time I tasted it. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. 104 proof. NAS (6-7 years, according to company website). Non-chill filtered. From recipes OBSV, OBSK, OBSF, OESV, OESK, OESF. Four Roses Single Barrel (NS 52-1N) Same clear dry orange Pantone 151/152 color. Nose shows carrot cake, dried orange, marzipan, apples, vanilla, and some spearmint. There’s a paraffin note that would be consistent with the longer wood aging. A bit of viscosity on the palate, with sweet orange and a pleasant Kentucky hug. There’s some rye spice on the finish, sweet espresso, black licorice, and a healthy dose of oaky vanilla. This Single Barrel is outstanding. It’s got everything: complexity, well-integrated proof, and an easy (and guiltless) drinkability. The various iterations can be found for under $50, which represents high relative value. Would I buy one again? Yes. No question. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. 100 proof. NAS (7-9 years, according to company website). Warehouse NS; Barrel 52-1N. I’ve been a big fan of the Small Batch Select as soon as it was introduced to the market. But I’m surprised that I’m rating this particular Single Barrel higher. Both of these bourbons are excellent, for different reasons. The Small Batch Select is sweet and subtly complex; it is balanced, smooth, and very enjoyable. The Single Barrel shows more differentiated complexity consistent with its longer time spent in barrel; the marginally lower proof also comes across more strongly—and this is a compliment. Both have a strong 100-104 proof, but I’d never use either of these in a cocktail. These are bourbons that are meant to be savored, slowly. N.B.: All spirts tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

BOOKER’S SHOWDOWN Booker’s “Beaten Biscuits” 2019-04 Booker’s “Mighty Fine Batch” 2023-03 Continuing to work through spirits in my collection that I’ve yet to review, or perhaps yet to review in a batch (I have reviewed “Beaten Biscuits” (7/22/22), but not “Mighty Fine Batch,” so I decided to group them together for another Showdown). Booker’s was my first foray into barrel-proof bourbon. I’ve had a few older bottles prior to the “Beaten Biscuits” here, including “Maw Maw’s Batch,” “Bluegill Creek,” and others. But frankly, Booker’s has taken something of a back seat over the years; not necessarily by intention, but rather as a function of my exploration of other barrel-proof bottlings. I remain a fan (fair warning). Booker’s “Beaten Biscuits” 2019-04 Color is a clear and deep burnt orange, corresponding to Pantone 159. Black licorice, currants, vanilla, banana bread, oak, rosin, and some alcohol on the nose. Slightly viscous mouthfeel; oatmeal with light maple syrup and cinnamon on the palate. Gentle burn on the back end, but the proof is well integrated. The finish begins with oaky vanilla, with a nice touch of bitterness manifest as both sugared espresso and the black licorice that reappeared from the nose, resolving again to gentle vanilla. I overrated this on my last review (4.75; July 22, 2022). “Beaten Biscuits” is very good, but not 4.75-good. The differentiator for me is the way the bitterness on the finish—which is not subtle—is positive and complementary rather than the more-common bitterness that is simply driven by exposure to oak tannins. Each release of Booker’s is typically priced somewhat above what I see as its main competitor (Elijah Craig Barrel Proof) and can usually be found for around $90. Would I buy it again? Yes. But not every release each year. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. 63.05% proof. Aged 6 years, 6 months, 19 days. Uncut and unfiltered. Booker’s “Mighty Fine Batch” 2023-03 Same clear burnt-orange Pantone-159 color as the “Beaten Biscuits.” The complex nose evokes savory and tangy barbecue sauce, cigar box, toasted marshmallows, chocolate-covered cherries, smoked meat, buttered cornbread, and apple pie, along with a cooling menthol element. There’s a light glycerin on the palate, and the buttery diacetyl note on the nose continues, along with sweet corn. Charred oak, cinnamon, and vanilla are predominant on the finish. Wow. “Mighty Fine Batch” lives up to its billing. The roughly $90 retail price for present-day Booker’s releases is not cheap, but due to the high proofs and consistently robust flavor profiles represents relative value in today’s bourbon market. Would I buy it again? Yes. Mighty fine, indeed. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. 63.3% proof. Age 7 years, 1 month, 10 days. Uncut and unfiltered. Booker’s, a brand owned by the Beam Suntory Behemoth, is generally released four times per year (in 2020, during Covid, there were three releases). Collectors like to collect, but it’s difficult to justify buying all four releases each year—assuming that you can find them. It’s hard enough to get the three annual releases of ECBP, and now there’s the three releases of Larceny Barrel Proof to contend with as well. When is Buffalo Trace going to join Beam and Heaven Hill in the three-times-per-year party? Details about each bottling, including percentages obtained from specific floors of specific warehouses, can be found on the brand’s website (https://www.bookersbourbon.com/batches#). N.B.: All spirts tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

BOOKER’S SHOWDOWN Booker’s “Beaten Biscuits” 2019-04 Booker’s “Mighty Fine Batch” 2023-03 Continuing to work through spirits in my collection that I’ve yet to review, or perhaps yet to review in a batch (I have reviewed “Beaten Biscuits” (7/22/22), but not “Mighty Fine Batch,” so I decided to group them together for another Showdown). Booker’s was my first foray into barrel-proof bourbon. I’ve had a few older bottles prior to the “Beaten Biscuits” here, including “Maw Maw’s Batch,” “Bluegill Creek,” and others. But frankly, Booker’s has taken something of a back seat over the years; not necessarily by intention, but rather as a function of my exploration of other barrel-proof bottlings. I remain a fan (fair warning). Booker’s “Beaten Biscuits” 2019-04 Color is a clear and deep burnt orange, corresponding to Pantone 159. Black licorice, currants, vanilla, banana bread, oak, rosin, and some alcohol on the nose. Slightly viscous mouthfeel; oatmeal with light maple syrup and cinnamon on the palate. Gentle burn on the back end, but the proof is well integrated. The finish begins with oaky vanilla, with a nice touch of bitterness manifest as both sugared espresso and the black licorice that reappeared from the nose, resolving again to gentle vanilla. I overrated this on my last review (4.75; July 22, 2022). “Beaten Biscuits” is very good, but not 4.75-good. The differentiator for me is the way the bitterness on the finish—which is not subtle—is positive and complementary rather than the more-common bitterness that is simply driven by exposure to oak tannins. Each release of Booker’s is typically priced somewhat above what I see as its main competitor (Elijah Craig Barrel Proof) and can usually be found for around $90. Would I buy it again? Yes. But not every release each year. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. 63.05% proof. Aged 6 years, 6 months, 19 days. Uncut and unfiltered. Booker’s “Mighty Fine Batch” 2023-03 Same clear burnt-orange Pantone-159 color as the “Beaten Biscuits.” The complex nose evokes savory and tangy barbecue sauce, cigar box, toasted marshmallows, chocolate-covered cherries, smoked meat, buttered cornbread, and apple pie, along with a cooling menthol element. There’s a light glycerin on the palate, and the buttery diacetyl note on the nose continues, along with sweet corn. Charred oak, cinnamon, and vanilla are predominant on the finish. Wow. “Mighty Fine Batch” lives up to its billing. The roughly $90 retail price for present-day Booker’s releases is not cheap, but due to the high proofs and consistently robust flavor profiles represents relative value in today’s bourbon market. Would I buy it again? Yes. Mighty fine, indeed. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. 63.3% proof. Age 7 years, 1 month, 10 days. Uncut and unfiltered. Booker’s, a brand owned by the Beam Suntory Behemoth, is generally released four times per year (in 2020, during Covid, there were three releases). Collectors like to collect, but it’s difficult to justify buying all four releases each year—assuming that you can find them. It’s hard enough to get the three annual releases of ECBP, and now there’s the three releases of Larceny Barrel Proof to contend with as well. When is Buffalo Trace going to join Beam and Heaven Hill in the three-times-per-year party? Details about each bottling, including percentages obtained from specific floors of specific warehouses, can be found on the brand’s website (https://www.bookersbourbon.com/batches#). N.B.: All spirts tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

LARCENY BARREL PROOF SHOWDOWN: 2023 Larceny Barrel Proof A123 Larceny Barrel Proof B523 Larceny Barrel Proof C923 Continuing to work through whiskies in my collection that I’ve yet to review. Getting closer! Larceny Barrel Proof is a wheated bourbon distilled by Heaven Hill and was first launched in January 2020. It is the Barrel Proof version of HH’s already-extant Larceny, which was launched in 2012 and is bottled at 92 proof. LBP is released three times per year and uses the same naming convention as HH’s Elijah Craig Barrel Proof (i.e., A123, etc.; A, B, C for each release; 1, 5, 9 for Jan., May, Sep.; 23 for 2023). According to the company’s website, the mashbill is consistent at 68% corn, 20% wheat, and 12% malted barley. LBP is essentially a wheated complement to ECBP, which uses a more traditional bourbon mashbill that employs rye in place of the wheat. Larceny Barrel Proof A123 Color is a clear and dark mahogany, near to either Pantone 153 and 160 (Pantone has an odd system of increments; there are numerous far lighter shades between 153 and 160). Intense and fruity nose shows brown sugar, stewed cinnamon apples, buttered scones with raspberry jam, café Cubano, and noticeable alcohol. Very rich and sweet on the palate, with a lightly creamy viscosity that envelops your tongue with its warm brown-sugar sweetness. After tasting the C923, I get a distinct peanut brittle as well. The café Cubano reappears on the finish with a touch of its espresso bitterness, as well as some char and vanilla. There is some lingering heat, but this is barrel-proof bourbon—not a cocktail with a little pink umbrella in it. The A123 is very good; but I’m taking my foot off the pedal a bit from my review of it on 10/5/23 (comparing it to ECBP A123). Tasting it now against the LBP B523 and C923, my position is somewhat lower than it was, but still above the community’s 4.05 rating. It has a complex nose, but the heat is just a little out of balance. Still, it’s a great value: each release of Larceny Barrel Proof can typically be found for about $70. Would I buy it again? Yes. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. 125.8 proof. NAS on bottle, but 6-8 years according to the Heaven Hill website. Larceny Barrel Proof B523 Clear mahogany color is indistinguishable from the A123, aligning with 153 or 160 on the Pantone chart. The initial impression is cocoa powder, oiled leather, pancakes and maple syrup, sweet pipe tobacco, Luxardo cherries, and a sweetness that reminds me of the pudin de pan that I had recently at a Colombian restaurant, which had raisins and flan-like caramelized sugar. There’s also a little barbecue-sauce tang. Like the A123, there is a mouthcoating creaminess with corn-pudding sweetness and cinnamon, and just the right combination of woody oak and vanilla on the finish, with a little residual heat. The B523’s nose is more reticent than the January release; it’s not as flamboyant and has a sense of sophistication and smoothness that is suggestive of a little more aging. The proof is virtually identical to the A123, but the heat is better integrated. At a price of around $70, it’s a great value. Would I buy it again? Yes. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. 124.4 proof. NAS on bottle, but 6-8 years according to the Heaven Hill website. Larceny Barrel Proof C923 Same clear mahogany Pantone 153/160 color as the A123 and B523. This nose is different: there’s almost an umami richness with buttered English muffins with strawberry jam, warm banana bread, pomander, chocolate fudge, toffee, vanilla, and even a touch of saline. The same light glycerin mouthfeel as the A123 and B523 appears on the palate, with bananas flambé and its accompanying caramelized -sugar bitterness. There are some drying leathery notes on the finish, and the vanilla lingers. The C923 is exceptional. I could nose it all night. And it’s the smoothest drinking of the bunch. Strangely, the community rating of 3.88 is the lowest of the 2023 releases (yet only 6 ratings prior to this one). As with each of these LBP releases, the $70 retail price is fantastic value in today’s market. Would I buy the C923 again? Yes. I’ll be looking for more. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. 126.4 proof. NAS on bottle, but 6-8 years according to the Heaven Hill website. Full disclosure: I have a sweet tooth, and “sweet” is the word that captures the essence of these 2023 releases. They have more similarities than differences, and have a comforting blanket-like warmth along with that amazing (but not cloying) sweetness and intensity. Each is very similar in terms of proof, ranging from 124.4 to 126.4. The A123 displays youthful intensity; the B523 comes across as having more age; and the C923 combines the best of both, marrying the robust and the sophisticated, and further differentiates itself with its savory aspects. The scuttlebutt seems to be that the Larceny Barrel Proof series is getting better. I’m not nearly as familiar with them as I am with their Elijah Craig Barrel Proof siblings, but surely the “getting better” can’t keep going much longer, because each of these is already very good. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

LARCENY BARREL PROOF SHOWDOWN: 2023 Larceny Barrel Proof A123 Larceny Barrel Proof B523 Larceny Barrel Proof C923 Continuing to work through whiskies in my collection that I’ve yet to review. Getting closer! Larceny Barrel Proof is a wheated bourbon distilled by Heaven Hill and was first launched in January 2020. It is the Barrel Proof version of HH’s already-extant Larceny, which was launched in 2012 and is bottled at 92 proof. LBP is released three times per year and uses the same naming convention as HH’s Elijah Craig Barrel Proof (i.e., A123, etc.; A, B, C for each release; 1, 5, 9 for Jan., May, Sep.; 23 for 2023). According to the company’s website, the mashbill is consistent at 68% corn, 20% wheat, and 12% malted barley. LBP is essentially a wheated complement to ECBP, which uses a more traditional bourbon mashbill that employs rye in place of the wheat. Larceny Barrel Proof A123 Color is a clear and dark mahogany, near to either Pantone 153 and 160 (Pantone has an odd system of increments; there are numerous far lighter shades between 153 and 160). Intense and fruity nose shows brown sugar, stewed cinnamon apples, buttered scones with raspberry jam, café Cubano, and noticeable alcohol. Very rich and sweet on the palate, with a lightly creamy viscosity that envelops your tongue with its warm brown-sugar sweetness. After tasting the C923, I get a distinct peanut brittle as well. The café Cubano reappears on the finish with a touch of its espresso bitterness, as well as some char and vanilla. There is some lingering heat, but this is barrel-proof bourbon—not a cocktail with a little pink umbrella in it. The A123 is very good; but I’m taking my foot off the pedal a bit from my review of it on 10/5/23 (comparing it to ECBP A123). Tasting it now against the LBP B523 and C923, my position is somewhat lower than it was, but still above the community’s 4.05 rating. It has a complex nose, but the heat is just a little out of balance. Still, it’s a great value: each release of Larceny Barrel Proof can typically be found for about $70. Would I buy it again? Yes. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. 125.8 proof. NAS on bottle, but 6-8 years according to the Heaven Hill website. Larceny Barrel Proof B523 Clear mahogany color is indistinguishable from the A123, aligning with 153 or 160 on the Pantone chart. The initial impression is cocoa powder, oiled leather, pancakes and maple syrup, sweet pipe tobacco, Luxardo cherries, and a sweetness that reminds me of the pudin de pan that I had recently at a Colombian restaurant, which had raisins and flan-like caramelized sugar. There’s also a little barbecue-sauce tang. Like the A123, there is a mouthcoating creaminess with corn-pudding sweetness and cinnamon, and just the right combination of woody oak and vanilla on the finish, with a little residual heat. The B523’s nose is more reticent than the January release; it’s not as flamboyant and has a sense of sophistication and smoothness that is suggestive of a little more aging. The proof is virtually identical to the A123, but the heat is better integrated. At a price of around $70, it’s a great value. Would I buy it again? Yes. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. 124.4 proof. NAS on bottle, but 6-8 years according to the Heaven Hill website. Larceny Barrel Proof C923 Same clear mahogany Pantone 153/160 color as the A123 and B523. This nose is different: there’s almost an umami richness with buttered English muffins with strawberry jam, warm banana bread, pomander, chocolate fudge, toffee, vanilla, and even a touch of saline. The same light glycerin mouthfeel as the A123 and B523 appears on the palate, with bananas flambé and its accompanying caramelized -sugar bitterness. There are some drying leathery notes on the finish, and the vanilla lingers. The C923 is exceptional. I could nose it all night. And it’s the smoothest drinking of the bunch. Strangely, the community rating of 3.88 is the lowest of the 2023 releases (yet only 6 ratings prior to this one). As with each of these LBP releases, the $70 retail price is fantastic value in today’s market. Would I buy the C923 again? Yes. I’ll be looking for more. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. 126.4 proof. NAS on bottle, but 6-8 years according to the Heaven Hill website. Full disclosure: I have a sweet tooth, and “sweet” is the word that captures the essence of these 2023 releases. They have more similarities than differences, and have a comforting blanket-like warmth along with that amazing (but not cloying) sweetness and intensity. Each is very similar in terms of proof, ranging from 124.4 to 126.4. The A123 displays youthful intensity; the B523 comes across as having more age; and the C923 combines the best of both, marrying the robust and the sophisticated, and further differentiates itself with its savory aspects. The scuttlebutt seems to be that the Larceny Barrel Proof series is getting better. I’m not nearly as familiar with them as I am with their Elijah Craig Barrel Proof siblings, but surely the “getting better” can’t keep going much longer, because each of these is already very good. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.