Tastes

This is the value play in the current Teeling lineup, with soft, fruity, pleasantly sweet (but not cloying) notes backed up by distinct coconut and molasses overtones from the time spent finishing in dark rum casks. Like all Teeling whiskeys, this is different, but very pleasant—and in a good way. It’s really far better than the “professional” rating here suggests. The higher proof (92) provides a richer, more aggressive flavor profile than most 80 proof Irish Whiskeys. Still, if you want a more polished, woody, and traditional grain profile, Knappogue Castle 12 year oak cask is even better at the same price. It’s a whiskey and Bourbon drinker’s Irish dram. However, you favor a nutty, tropical fruit profile which compliments a more traditional blended Irish Whiskey mashbill, you’ve found your bottle in Teeling Small Batch. And it is good...

I’ll admit that even though my Mum was born in Dublin, I’m a relative newcomer to the charms of finer Irish Whiskey (the American 50% of me prefers Kentucky Bourbon!) I now understand that Teeling is definitely on its own path and not following traditional Irish Whiskey mash bills, which is intriguing. However, this unconventional 97% Corn/3% Malted Barley whiskey—is a “cornpone” style mash straight out of Tennessee—but not a good one. Finished in red wines barrels, this Teeling Single Grain is a bit of a miss for me, despite the “professional” review of 92 here. I’d give it an 82. Initially there’s a huge whiff of hot ethanol on the nose that hits the palate immediately after, covering whatever flavor nuances might be there. Even though I usually appreciate the higher proof bottlings, this actually opens just a bit (a very little bit) with a splash of water. I don’t notice any impact from the red wine barrel finishing whatsoever. I hate to say it, but the lesser reviewed “Small Batch” blended offering finished in ex-Flora Cana rum casks is far more interesting, if a bit sweeter on the finish. Its more cohesive and it’s also 25% less expensive than this one—and a far better value. $10 more buys you Redbreast and another $10 gets you Green Spot—both immensely superior drams. At least I can say I’ve tried it, but I won’t be buying this again. I’ll stick to the bargain Small Batch.

I have to say that I’ve wanted to try this for months but the packaging is a turn off to me so I resisted it. I think Dave Finney (of Orin Swift Winery fame) would do well to put this pretty copper colored Rye in a slightly more conventional clear bottle with a less provocative label. What’s inside is pretty amazing for less than $30, though. Others have suggested that it’s Dickel sourced, which is likely although I think the actual juice originated at MGP in Indiana. They offer the same mashbill as used in Redemption Rye. Whatever the machinations, the finishing in French Syrah barrels does add a slightly fruity complexity to the mid-palette and finish, with a “high corn rye mash” that spilts the difference between Rye and Bourbon in sweetness. On second thought, it seems to be sitting on the shelves at my local Total Wine so now that I’ve discovered it—perhaps they should leave the stylized but homely packaging alone so I can buy all they have.

This is a sharp, highly aromatic rye with a grassy, spicy character true to its Pennsylvania style roots. A cube brings out a bit of dill pickle and faintly peaty smoke, which, while sounding a bit odd is actually quite interesting. Hardcore Penn rye lovers should be entranced, but this is an acquired taste, for sure. I love it!

Blended, finished, and bottled by blender/marketer Distillers Way, LLC, in an industrial warehouse in the Seattle area. This company “assembles” private label spirits for Total Wine and others, using distillates made and aged by MGP and others. I often distrust store brands and barrel picks, but no worries on this one. This bottling utilizes two actual mashbills: the standard 95% rye, 5% malted barley MGP mashbill aged 4 years. This hooch is found in so many rye offerings, such as Bulleit, Pinhook, Redemption, and many others. This is then blended with MGP’s “high corn” mashbill, featuring 51% rye, 45% corn, and 4% malted barley, aged 3 years. The actual barrel aging is done in Indiana at MGP. The exact proportions of the blend are not stated, but it’s likely NOT a 50/50 blend. I detect a little more of the high corn distillate in this, but don’t know for sure. Distillers Way buys odd lot and non-selected barrels (ones that are over-aged or that may not fit the flavor profile for other clients) from distillers like MGP, and then they blend, finish, and bottle them. This particular blend is finished in old rum casks for an unstated amount of time. As with most single barrel bottlings, it’s bottled when the blender determines it is “ready.” Let me note that it’s increasingly clear that aging and blending, as opposed to actual distilling (still important) are where it’s at. Giant producers like MGP have much greater efficiencies, and for the small operators, its much less capital intensive and far easier to start an operation when the big boys are supplying the juice. Someone with a good palate and skill can start with the same distillate and end up with a very different flavor profile. I think we will continue to see more operations like this spring up around the country. This is a relatively small operation, and this Rye had just 8 barrels total for the winter 2019 release—and a mere 300 or so bottles per barrel are produced. My bottle (262 of 303) was from barrel 1 of 8. There’s a nice, aromatic, spicy edge up front, but the mellow, caramel corn pushes through with a bit of dark rum overtones in the finish. at once accessible yet still a bit exotic, this was awarded a Double Gold at San Francisco this year, and deserves it. With only 2400+- bottles nationally, it will sell through quickly—so if you can find a bottle at Total Wine, grab one. For under $30 it’s a lovely and interesting Rye.

The idea that this has lost its 9 year age statement but is still “blended from old and young Bourbons to maintain its flavor profile” is pure bullsh*t. Nothing substitutes for time in the barrel and warehouse temperatures. It’s now NAS and doesn’t resemble the former product at all. End of story. Just like Suntory to rape the brand and cash in. Now they can make all they want and fool the uninitiated. Honestly, as my tastes have evolved I haven’t bought much Knob Creek (other than the barrel proof Rye—which is still good) and this new effort ensures that I won’t buy it again. Sad.

My intuition is that this is the 4 year “White Label” Evan Williams Bottled -In-Bond watered down to 80 proof instead of 100 proof. The mashbill and profile seem identical. It’s probably $5-$6 cheaper than the bond but the EW100 is such a good value that I don’t see the need for this UNLESS you only have $16-$18 to spend on a 4 Yr old bourbon.

Made in downtown San Antonio, Texas, this upstart distillery also makes a corn-based Vodka and a coffee liqueur. I first received a bottle of this gratis at a company holiday party and thought it was decent. Since it’s a 90 proof small batch (which it doesn’t taste like) there must be a LOT of variation in batches, because I purchased a second bottle which tastes NOTHING like the first. The mashbill is purportedly corn, barley, and a “hint” of rye. I don’t detect anything that would suggest rye, and the corn, which must be predominant in order to call this a Bourbon, seems bland and lacks character. I definitely get the softness of barley. In fact, it’s so light that I suspected it might really be a spirit whiskey (since they’re using corn to make their “ethanol” vodka, could they be blending this? Whatever the case, I suppose a lot more time in oak and perhaps a bit of heat applied to hasten the aging process could help this Bourbon. As it sits, I can see why the price has dropped by 20% recently at my local Total Wine outlet. But even at $20.49, it’s no value. Even Ezra Brooks 90 proof blows this away for half the price. I want to support these guys but I just can’t recommend this stuff.

Very much in the Willett house mashbill, this is a less aged, lower proof offering than stablemate Noah’s Mill (which has a richness and higher proof I prefer.). However, for 60% of that price, you get about 85% of the flavor profile, making this a great high-end daily drinker at a bargain sticker price. If you’ve never tried Willett offerings, this is a great place to start.

Fresh mown hay and grass, green Apple, chamomile flowers, clove spice. This MGP-sourced 95/5% Rye/barley juice has been aged just enough to soften a bit, while retaining its major rye spice and herbaceous taste. A drop or two of mineral water brings it alive. It’s VERY different—a Canadian Whiskey or Scotch drinker’s Rye—but a limited availability treat at a great price. Worth seeking out!