Tastes

Happy St. Patrick's Day! While everyone else is out reviewing Irish Whiskeys today (I do have a recently opened Knappogue Castle 12), I'm instead dropping Lagavulin 16, which I chose to be taste #100. Powerful yet elegant bacon grease hits you first on the nose, but then retreats to a smolder in the background. Then comes damp leaves and some fruit: baked apple and some plum, heavily spiced with cinnamon and clove, blending seamlessly into the cigar box aroma that is also prevalent. The smoke is barely present at this stage, except for the suggestion of smoked meats. The palate is remarkable: no heat at first, but then all the flavor is delivered at once. For the subtle smoke on the nose, however elegant but always present, it is unbelievably sweet, with smoked maple syrup and the baking spices present on the nose. The dryness reads less as oak tannins and more as if copious amounts of clove were added to a dessert. In the same way, just the slightest hint of a pinch of salt makes the dessert aspect that much sweeter, without actually feeling "sweet" because the balance with the smoke is perfect. The finish is not as long as, say, an Uigeadail, but it doesn't need to be. It is consistent throughout, fading into the last remnant of syrup soaked bacon before disappearing into nothing. The reason I chose this for #100 is because it represents the (perhaps over-hyped) "pinnacle" of entry-level expressions. It is in no way the best whisky in the world, or even the best one that I've tried, but it exists as a sort of legendary figurehead that hints at even better and more interesting things to come for those who have sunk enough money into the fandom to make it this far. If whisky was a movie, then Lagavulin 16 would be the first "Avengers", and a fitting transition into the hopefully better phase of 2021.

Moving straight through the seasons with these recent reviews, from Summer/Fall (Remy 1738), to Fall proper (Glendronach), this is now "late Autumn to Christmas-like holidays". The decadent nose is dense pound cake not quite soaked in caramel, but more like a burnt sugar glaze. It is decidedly sweet, but not cloying; very light and airy overall despite the density of that cake (this is a neck pour). There are hints of rum raisin and maraschino cherry as well. The entry is a whisper. Absolute still waters impart an understated flavor of almond cake (sensing a theme here), dried fig, apple, walnuts, and a hint of maple, with a pucker of dry oak at the end; assertive without being astringent. At very few points do you suspect that you are actually drinking alcohol. As the bottle level goes down, the flavor intensity has nowhere to go but up, and this delicate liquid shines its brightest when it reaches "peak stodginess". This is my first single pot still, and I can see (and now fully appreciate) why this style is so indicative of the region. I plan to keep a bottle around mainly for that reason, to fill out my sparse Irish whiskey collection.

The nose is maple syrup, sultanas, dates, a touch of fig jam, and a whiff of muscat grapes enveloped by walnuts. The palate explodes with rich Autumn fruits, and punches above its weight class in flavor: cinnamon, clove, allspice, apple juice, and apricot jam greet you, and then a note of ginger cleverly boosts the finish to a place where 43% ABV simply never treads. I was surprised to learn that this sherry bomb was not technically from Speyside, just extremely close to the region. "Decadent" is the word that summarizes it best, and it is perhaps the perfect Fall dessert whisky. It is much better than The Macallan IMO, and a heck of a lot "warmer"; it's almost like they put all of their love into the whisky itself instead of ensuring that the cask engineering blueprints are interesting enough for an average businessman to bring them up in conversation. The price has crept up recently, but this is a bottle that I would always like to have around.

I got this bottle a few years ago mainly because it came with a fancy glass and neat spherical ice mold. Not much in the nose, or at least it takes some time to open up a little: some stone fruit, grains, and caramel apple. The entry is water-thin, but then deposits pear juice, cinnamon, and some cigar box notes on the tongue. Short finish. At a few dollars more than the white label (and a few less than Glenmorangie), I think that this is whisky is priced very well for what it is. Very drinkable, and a nice bottle to look at on the shelf.

The nose has the honeyed nuts of a typical Speyside, but none of the indulgent dried fruits (as expected by the casking), only candied orange peel. The palate is flavorful and delightful, striking the perfect balance between sweet and dry. I get vanilla shortbread that dissolves into some brine, propped up by the mere suggestion of peat. The finish is quite long compared to the rest of the experience. Cragganmore is similar to The Balvenie in terms of showcasing the Speyside character without an angry protestant needing to baptize your heretical taste buds in sherry, and I dare say does it better. This has been discontinued by the state ABC, and I am glad I picked up 2 half priced bottles first.

The nose is wonderful: fresh dough with warm cinnamon and a drop of cherry. This is one of those drinks that comes in fast and easy, and then releases its flavor all at once: brown sugar, allspice, a blast of sweet cherry, and then some oak tannins which extend the finish. Elegant at the front end, rugged in the back. Eagle Rare is one of those bourbons that you really can't ever go wrong with. The price is very reasonable for both the quality and age, considering that it's difficult to find 10 year *anything* for under $30 (at least in the States), the brand is instantly recognizable while not quite ubiquitous, and it mixes almost too well with maraschino liqueur (but certainly doesn't need to). It has become, well, "rare" in stores lately for whatever reason, but I will always keep a bottle on standby if I can.

Fruitcake and candied orange peel on the nose. Orange juice and stone fruit on the palate, with pear in the background, and a slight bitter note, which is welcome to break up the sweetness. Nothing special, but pleasant, much like the standard 12. The Cognac cask just adds a fresh coat of orange paint. Not sure if it's worth $10 more, but if Glenmorangie can get away with it, then why not?

The nose is full of walnuts, honey-drizzled citrus, and vanilla beam scone. Very sweet and decadent compared to the 12. On the palate, orange marmalade and lemon oil integrate with toasted nuts, giving way to a midpalate minerality that persists into the finish, providing a good length. I wouldn't say that the sherry influence is subdued here, so much as seamlessly integrated into the neat little gift basket of dried fruits and salted nuts. A marked improvement over the 12, but maybe not worth over double the price.