Benchmark Full Proof Bourbon (125 Proof)

BUDGET HAZMAT SHOWDOWN Benchmark Full Proof Old Grand-Dad 114 Maker’s Mark Cask Strength I’ve always loved high-proof, barrel-strength “hazmat” bourbon. As I’ve written in other reviews, there’s a certain purity in drinking these, as they are bottled without dilution and essentially unadulterated straight from the barrel. I decided to pull three relatively inexpensive bottles from my collection to see which would be crowned Champion of Budget Hazmat Bourbon. While none of these approach the proof of many higher-end bourbons (Elijah Craig Barrel Proof and Booker’s are frequently 130 or higher, as are highly allocated bottles such as William Larue Weller), they are also far less expensive. The comparisons aren’t perfect, but a little empirical analysis is a good thing. Benchmark Full Proof (125 proof; $25) The Benchmark Full Proof (BFP), a Buffalo Trace product, shows a clear and classic mahogany color, essentially identical to the other two. The nose is sweet, with chocolate-covered cherries, vanilla, cigar box, pipe tobacco, and the expected ethanol; there’s no need to bury your nose in the glass and inhale deeply, unless you’re a nasal masochist. After tasting the other two, I get a cotton candy aromas as well. On the palate, there’s a light glycerin mouthfeel, and again, the expected ethanol. The finish is medium in length, and very smooth, with absolutely no tannic bitterness. It carries no age statement. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Old Grand-Dad 114 (114 proof; $30) Old Grand-Dad 114 (OGD), a Jim Beam product, shows the same classic color as the BFP. The nose is quite different, with saddle leather, dried oranges, demerara sugar, a dusty element, and a subtle minty coolness, which likely stems from the high-rye mashbill (63% corn, 27% rye, 10% barley). Surprisingly, the alcohol comes across as strong or even stronger than the BFP, despite being 11 proof points lower. There’s more oakiness on the palate as well. The medium finish shows some rye spice, and like the BFP shows no bitterness. On the whole, it is not as sweet as the BFP. It too has no age statement. 3.75 on the Distiller scale. Maker’s Mark Cask Strength (110.4 proof; $40) Maker’s Mark Cask Strength (MMCS) is of course a Maker’s Mark product, and is nearly identical in color to the the BFP and OBD. This particular bottle is the lowest proof of the three at 110.4; the company notes that the proof can vary from 108 to 114. The nose is between the BFP and OGD in terms of intensity, and offers caramel, Cocoa Puffs cereal, and brown sugar. The palate is warm and noticeably lighter than the other two, as might be expected by the lower proof, and has a pleasant rosin note. There is noticeable woody vanilla on the finish, more prominent than the BFP and OGD. It too is an NAS bourbon. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Each of these are pleasant sippers on their own, and their high proofs would lend themselves well to a Manhattan or Old Fashioned (I’ve done both with the BFP and OGD). On the whole, the BFP is smoother and richer; the OGD a bit more rugged; and the MMCS more sophisticated. Each lack the complexity and intensity that I find in Elijah Craig Barrel Proof or Booker’s; but both of those are more than double the price. I’ve always been a fan of OGD, and have referred to it as the best bang-for-the-buck on a proof basis. But next to the others, I’d push it to third place. The BFP and MMCS are both very good and somewhat different, but I’d give a slight edge to the BHP. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in Glencairn glasses.