GlenDronach Allardice 18 Year

The whisky may represent my single biggest disagreement with the Distiller ratings. 84 is a crime! This 18-year old whisky, matured entirely in oloroso sherry butts, is a spectacular example of the genre. Vanilla is immediately noticeable, along with the complexity typical of older sherry drams: figs, caramel, and rich, buttery sweetness that reminds me of cashews or a particularly creamy nut. Another great thing about older sherry-aged drams is that they develop a smokiness that doesn't come from peat, but makes for a lovely finish all the same. At $150 or so, this is an expensive bottle in the U.S., but it's a bargain compared to the $250 that Macallan 18 commands. It's a bargain in another significant way too. Because GlenDronach shut down entirely from 1996 to 2001, the current whiskies labeled "18" in fact contain whisky from right before 1996 (since none of the 2001 and later whisky is old enough yet). That makes this, in reality, a 21-year old whisky. Thus, this year and next may be the last change to grab this "special" Allardice that is in fact far more mature than its age statement suggests.