ScotchingHard
Reviewed
September 11, 2018 (edited March 29, 2020)
Kilkerran has been releasing well-received works in progress; undermatured whiskies that can only appeal to the whisky nerd. This is their first “final” product, a 12 year old blend of their bourbon and sherry matured whiskies. This is still a work in progress. This is still undermatured. This still will only appeal to whisky nerds.
I am a practical whisky nerd. I know this represents a well-crafted and honest whisky product, but this could be better. There is no opportunity for Kilkerran to put any makeup on this 12 year old because its oldest whisky is 12 years old. More established distilleries will use older-than-age-statement whisky to smooth out blemishes and add a certain richness that this Kilkerran lacks.
The nose is so incredibly dry, that I’m shocked it’s from the canonized producers of Springbank, Longrow, and Hazelburn. There are unaltered esters from the spirit that still dominate the nose. What this has going for it is the well-integrated peat, and meaty sulphury notes that Springbank does so well. But the best thing is the viscous palatte. Like a 35-year old whisky in texture, this tastes almost like an ashy lemon Jell-O. With that viscosity, you know this can handle water, and I do not know any other 46% ABV spirit that can take as much dilution.
This whisky is rather extreme. At 12 years old, it is still underdeveloped, and dominated by the spirit. Somehow, it is so viscous, that it is gooey. It has some of the unfriendly flavors of Springbank including a Sulphurous funk, and it is not hidden away by fruity sweetness here. For a very close, but even more extreme example of the Kilkerran 12, try the Signatory Un-Chillfiltered Collection Craigellachie 13 year old. That one is just missing the viscosity. I don’t know how this Kilkerran is so oily! I can only imagine what Kilkerran will become in the next few years.
PRESUMPTIVE MARK: 89/100.
76.0
USD
per
Bottle