Campbeltown, Sept., 2017 - Scottish Isles Golf & Distilleries - After a stint on the Isle of Arran we took the Lochranza ferry over to the Kintyre Peninsula landing north at Clonaig. The voyage was relatively short but attention grabbing with heavy wind, rain, and fog. I rode above deck to the constant screeching of the ship’s stability alarm sounding over loudspeaker whenever the vessel heeled beyond its safety zone. In each case, the able Captain simply maneuvered into the wind and powerful swells that were pounding us portside. Nothing like harsh elements and a grim looking horizon to make one long for a hefty glass of whisky, but it would have to wait as we were scheduled for a very windy round of golf at the old and venerable course at Machrihanish, situated south on the Mull of Kintyre.
Once arriving, we peered out at what many describe as the “best opening hole in golf.” The majestic landscape featured a long sandy beach nestled against the left side of the challenging fairways. In addition, a gathering of area youth could be seen in the distance and this set the stage for what would leave a lasting impression of a region and its people. Maybe 50 or 60 strong, and all donned in black wetsuits, they wallowed and cackled in the Mull’s frigid waters like a rookery of seals at play. Sharing only a handful of surfboards, this was more of a social gathering of both male and female teenagers. Afterwards, we roomed nearby in Campbeltown at a converted mansion that was built in 1882 by distillery owner William McKersie. This was a time when Campbeltown was host to over 20 distilleries and boasted the highest per capita income in all of Britain. Unfortunately, Prohibition and the Great Depression hit America, tastes changed with the times, and now only 3 distilleries remain: Springbank, Glen Scotia, and Glengyle. This seems dire, however, Glengyle is part of a whisky revival and only reopened in the current century. McKersie’s Italianate mansion was built on a hill overlooking Campbeltown Loch and its once teeming harbor. Reasonably maintained, this aged structure is symbolic of Campbeltown itself, and suggestive of some of New England’s old mill towns that once struggled to reinvent themselves. Having a population of under 5,000 hearty souls, the township felt much larger and robust. Adjoining buildings line the narrow streets and alleyways, and the entire population seemed ever present on its sidewalks and in the lively pubs and restaurants. In the center of all this, and only a few streets over from the water, lies the Springbank distillery. Founded in 1828, Springbank is one of only two Campbeltown distilleries to have operated continuously since that period. In 1973 Springbank added the Longrow peated series, and again in 1997 the first distillation of Hazelburn was produced. Both are names from now defunct distilleries. Still independent and family owned through 5 generations of Mitchell family heirs, the company acquired and reopened the Glengyle distillery (Kilkerran Single Malt) in 2000. Our tour of Springbank was like a journey back in time. The dunnage-style warehouses were composed of stone walls and earthen floors. Rainwater is allowed to run down the interior's framework to saturate the dirt below. This gives the air surrounding the casks a mineral mustiness that lends character to the aging spirits. Springbank distillery produces whisky for all 3 labels at this one location and has a capacity 750,000 liters per year. The 2017 run rate was 16% of available output or 120,000 liters. Limited production runs are aimed at a passionate and loyal customer base appreciative of the time-honored whisky making process that includes traditional malting floors and antique aging facilities. A vintage cast iron mash tun and spirit safe both date back over a century and are still in use to help insure consistency. After the tour we ventured over to Cadenhead’s whisky shop nearby to collect our free sample of the Springbank 12yo Cask Strength (outstanding nose, faint smoke, honeyed vanilla, sea salt, dried fruits, viscous, excellent). We spent 4 days in Campbeltown and tried a good variety of local spirits covering all three distilleries. While there, we also golfed a spectacular new links course called Machrihanish Dunes that opened in 2009, and not to be confused with the original course. The golf and the whisky on this leg of our journey were fantastic, but my fondest memory was that of the people. Upbeat and cheerful, they were an ideal example of folks living in the moment and relishing life. Maybe it was something in the water, but more than likely it was something in the whisky. :)