cascode
Reviewed
November 9, 2021 (edited August 23, 2022)
Nose: Mild orchard fruit, mild cereal, mild vanilla, a hint of mild citrus. Mild … mild … mild …
Palate: Soft, smooth clean entry. Dried fruit compote (apricots, figs, pears) reconstituted with honey-water. Chestnut and hazelnut butter with a little spice (sweet cinnamon, clove, mild ginger). Some soft cereals and tannins. The mouthfeel is velvety and agreeable but the whisky lacks density and presence. The structure is fragile and it falls apart very easily with dilution.
Finish: Medium. Semi-sweet fruity but well balanced aftertaste.
This tasting was from batch DC076, distilled in 2001 (under Bill Lark’s watch) at the old Sullivans Cove distillery and bottled in 2014 at 40%. The casking was 40% French oak ex-port casks and 60% ex-bourbon. The bottle was gifted to me by a friend who is not a whisky drinker but had received it from his brother-in-law some years ago.
It's a clean and highly approachable whisky with a profile that is similar to several mid-shelf highland and Speyside scotch single malts, in particular it bears a resemblance to Balvenie. There is absolutely nothing wrong with it – in fact it is a very nice whisky, however it is absurdly over-hyped and ferociously overpriced.
This is the “affordable” Sullivans Cove whisky (at around AUD$400-600). Their contemporary core-range American Oak expression is around AUD$800-1,000 and the French Oak AUD$1,200 or more. In my opinion nothing they produce is worth the prices they charge. I could buy 5 bottles of Balvenie 12 (or anything in that price range) for the cost of one bottle of this and I'd be getting whisky that was at least equivalent if not better.
Sullivan’s Cove is a complex whisky to review – more so than you might think. Since its founding in 1994 the distillery has gone through three distinct changes of ownership, declared bankruptcy twice, and moved its physical location (in 2004). Each change has seen an almost complete overhaul in distillery staff and the “recipe” for the core range products has completely changed several times.
When all this happens at a small artisanal distillery that has only existed for 27 years it is inevitable that the product will be extremely batch-variable, and so is the case here. There should really be a different entry for every batch of Double-Cask – I’ve tasted many and they vary greatly – almost shockingly. It should also be noted that the whisky is steadily getting better overall and is more consistent nowadays under the very capable management of Heather Tillott.
The whisky sold by the original owners was utterly dreadful and Sullivan's Cove did not shake off its poor local reputation until the early 2000s, when the "2nd Generation" distillery's spirit (designed by Bill Lark) started to hit the market. This is the stuff that won all the medals and was highly rated by Jim Murray. For better or worse that put Sullivan's Cove and Tasmanian whisky in general on the map but the result was the same as for many Japanese distilleries - huge demand and little stock.
BTW - the official Distiller scope notes for this listing are incorrect in a couple of details. Double-Cask was 40% abv up until 2017 at which point it increased to 45% or 47.5% which greatly improved the expression. The distillery only has one still (not "stills") which is used for both wash and spirit runs. She's called “Myrtle”. Double Cask is always a combination of French oak ex-port and American oak ex-bourbon, but the proportion varies for each batch.
"Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)