DrRHCMadden
Reviewed
May 17, 2024 (edited May 19, 2024)
A no age statement offering for the 2023 special release. A bold move Talisker; NAS has not been your strong point in the past. Whats more this year, the special release is finished in a combination of port casks (white, tawny, and ruby). In my opinion the weakest offering Talisker put out is the port cask finished NAS Port Ruighe. Bearing in mind I am a sucker for port cask whisky, my low ranking of PR is a bit of an indictment.
So, is tonight going to see a fall from grace for Talisker in my opinion, or will I be pleasantly surprised?
N: Opens with a little bit of aggressive burn so I’ll leave that for a few minutes and let this mellow out for a minute. A light ashy smoke drifts into the frame and brings some sweet bacon and almost leathery oak tannins. The minerality is evident and a misty, foggy, overcast sea scape unfolds. A slightly vegetal and herbal whiff ushers in the fruit. Sultana, figs, blackcurrant and a subtle oiliness like walnut or marzipan perhaps?
P: Assertive. A dry medium body opens with a smack of grainy-ashy textural smoke and an almost heavy handed slap of black pepper to chilli. Let the smoke settle in and it will reveal dark cherry and dark caramel, woody tannins keep the dryness going. Crisp apple, a flash of summer berries and then dark brooding leather and old waxed furniture. Salt.
F: Long. If you don’t respect this then the finish is a harsh chilli and peppercorn assault. A careful approach though and there is a slight creaminess, maybe toffee and the promise of nutmeg or cinnamon that never quite arrives. Cool beach bonfire smoke closes the proceedings with a glimmer of the underlying malt as oat and pastries.
Curiouser and curiouser. This certainly has subverted expectations. First lets get ideas of grandeur and excellence out the way, this isn’t that. This is obviously young from the first nosing and the Talisker chilli catch is working double time. But, it doesn’t make this unenjoyable, and it certainly doesn’t stop it being interesting or good. Beyond the youth there is lots to explore in the Talisker wilds. The port casks are measured and restrained, evident as understated fruits on the nose and just the right amount of leathery oiliness to tell you port was in the mix. The palate has a weightiness that makes up for a bit of a tight profile, but theres enough there to enjoy. The finish, if you have the patience will speak of things that you will never really find, but you’re going to keep looking, keep exploring none the less.
Wild and untamed, and worth the exploration.
Distiller whisky taste #270
[Pictured here with an astrophyllite fenite from Mt. Eveslogchorr on the Kola Peninsula, Russia. Fenites are awesome, highly altered igneous rocks that are completely obliterated and altered (in this case to white sugary albite feldspar) by aggressive CO2 fluids. The astrophyllite is the shiny cola brown blades; they’re just plain pretty].
Talisker running scores
T10: 4/5
T18: 4.75/5
Skye: 3.25/5
Port Ruighe: 2.75/3
Storm: 3.5/5
Dark Storm: 4.25/5
Surge: 4/5
57 North: 4.25/5
X Parley Wilder Seas: 4.25/5
T8 2018 Special Release: 4.5/5
T15 2019 Special Release: 3.5/5
T8 2020 Special Release: 4.25/5
T8 2021 Special Release: 4.5/5
T11 2022 Special Release: 4/5
Wild Explorador 2023 Special Release: 3.5/5
150.0
AUD
per
Bottle