I want to start off by saying that this is a re-review. I first reviewed this spirit about a year ago, and I'm not sure that I gave it it's due. I wouldn't say that I had a bad bottle by any means, but I do think that I'm better prepared to review this one today than I was back then.
The Bottle: Squatter than most, with a nice green glass and a thin band of a paper label. Very similar to my remarks about the 15 year old, which only differs in color and proportion; but all of the relevant details hold the same. Tobermory consistently produces some of my favorite bottling designs across their range. The label calls out that it's un-chill filtered, but doesn't say anything about a natural color. I tend to think that it is, given the color of the spirit itself but it's hard to be sure. This Is a classy one that looks quite nice in any bar.
In the Glass: A few shades darker than an Ardbeg. It has a straw color to it, but with a touch of apple juice.
On the Nose: This is where you start to realize that Tobermory puts together a spirit unlink most others. There's a a powerful dry note to this with a marine backdrop. It's got an herbal quality to it, as if "Sea Sage" were a thing. A touch of green apple woven in there as well to round it out. Being the only active distillery on the Isle of Mull really gives these guys a chance to put their mark on the single malt map. It's not really "like" other ones that I've come across.
Taste: This is interesting. Picture a marriage between Calvados, citrus, rubbed sage and the smell of a cold water beach. It's an odd mix, but it actually works quite well on the tongue. Aside from some of the apple hints, this isn't a sweet whisky; this is a savory one. The dry sage and herbal qualities in this allow it to play the role of an aperitif or something to go really well with a meal. I wouldn't reach for this as a dessert dram, like I would so many others. The finish turns astringent and drying, which makes you want to reach for another sip shortly after your last one.
All-in-all, a really nice whisky from an often-overlooked distillery. It's started to become more difficult to find out by me, which is a pity.
I've grown very fond of it the second time around and I very much look forward to the newer 12 year old offering(s) that Tobermory is working on. I likewise reviewed a bottle of the 15 year-old, and I can definitely see how this spirit provides the foundation for that one.