Weller 12 Year Bourbon

Easy sipper

Those of us of a certain age no doubt remember Orson Welles as a pitchman for Paul Masson wine: "We will sell no wine...before it's time." Setting aside the irony that this wine in the 70s was not too far removed from two-buck chuck, the catchphrase serves as a reminder that some things cannot be rushed--and aged whisk(e)y is one such thing. Afficionados debate what the ideal age for whisk(e)y may be (years for bourbon are "faster" than years for scotch due to the warmer climate), but for me there is little debate that Weller 12 hits the sweet spot. Like its younger cousin Blanton's, Weller 12 is refined, sure-footed, and smooth: it does its job well without fanfare. But this urbane utilitarianism and unpretentious seamlessness is what sets it apart. Clear mahogany color. Fruity nose with ripe peaches, dried apple slices, chocolate covered cherries, rosin, sawdust, and cocoa powder. Upon entry the 90 proof punches appropriately like a welterweight, with a slightly viscous mouthfeel, and a palate with orange pith undergirded with some woody tannins. White pepper and vanilla on the finish. Weller 12 is currently one of my top-5 bourbons (others being W.L. Weller, Elijah Craig 18, Old Forester Birthday Bourbon, and most bottlings of Elijah Craig Barrel Proof). I traded for a fair amount of it a few years ago with an ever-appreciating stock of Hibiki 12, and I'll buy it when I see it as long as it's well below secondary prices--at least, that is, until my inventory runs out. Then I'll have to pay up. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.