Tastes

I visited the Teeling distillery last month, took in a tour (self-guided these days), and I got to sample this spirit and take some home. The overall impression of this single pot still is of a spirit too young yet to be considered good. The nose appears very young, grainy and chemically (is it the feints that smell more like that?). In addition to apples and superglue, I get a bit of a farmyard smell and detect grass and hay like the Distiller tasting notes highlight. It hits the palate hot and peppery, which is not unusual for a pot still whiskey. But I don't get much else other than a hot, young spirit - it could just as well be tequila. There is no finesse. You won’t find comparisons to John’s Lane or Redbreast. It is very much like a new make; a poitín taste. Who knows what the years will bring to this but for now I just think it's mediocre.

Cooley Distillery, now owned by Beam Suntory, are like the MGP of Ireland. They do have a few brands of their own (Kilbeggan, Tyrconnell, Connemara) but their distillate is used in probably 40 or so brands of Irish whiskey and is the source of most of the “output” of the glut of newly established whiskey companies waiting on their own distilleries to be built or their own stock to mature. Teeling is Cooley. Glendalough is Cooley. Fercullen is Cooley. If you have some Knappogue Castle you are drinking some of the Cooley-Aid. The Whistler range from Boann is also sourced from this same distillery in County Louth. The Boann distillery was opened in 2017 in the neighbouring County Meath and they are laying down stock with an expectation of releasing their first whiskeys after 5 years. If the World Whiskey Awards are a source to be trusted then Boann are not doing too badly with their early efforts. They won the 2021 award for “World's Best New Make & Young Spirit”. In the case of this NAS whiskey, Boann have taken non-chill filtered, non-coloured Cooley stock that was previously aged in ex-bourbon casks and then they finished it for at least 9 months in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. What jumps out first is a pleasing mix of aromas: raspberry, blackberry, fresh sawdust, vanilla, a touch of eraser and a hint of cough medicine. The sherry finish is most prominent on the palate with a syrupy klaxon of forest fruit and fig chutney. It holds for a medium length finish that is gently drying, with a tail-whip of spice. This is good. Very good. It is my first sampling of what Boann are offering and, while this isn’t their own distillate, based on their selection and further maturation of the Cooley stock I now trust them sufficiently to pay attention to what else they offer and what they do next. #DAD

Nose: floral scent, smoke but reminds me of burning dry forest brush, a light whiff of chocolate, vegetal funk, spent match sulphur Taste: smoke, woody, salt, grilled grapefruit, menthol, slightly bitter Finish: salty, paracetamol Not a big fan of this. Reminds me of a cross between a Kilchoman Machir Bay and a Ben Nevis 10. But in a "sum is less than the parts" kind of way.

This is like Toy Story 4. Good but not hitting the same heights as before. The problem: too Woody.

Some whiskies are like big, bad wolves – huffing and puffing, frantically trying to flatten your house. Other whiskies are the quietest zephyrs which, nevertheless, blow you to smithereens. Nose: Cream, strawberry mousse, peach, Rich Tea biscuits, toasted grain, hay bale Taste: Sweet mmmmmm arrival, deliciously light, orange and clove, barley sugar, and a hint of rhubarb Finish: Dry, short to medium, lemon drops Masterful simplicity and balance.

Enjoying both a Bushmills 10 and Laphroaig 10 this evening. A world apart yet only 33 miles between the distilleries.