Tastes
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Appearance: Transparent deep amber like well-brewed black tea. Aroma: Orange peel, mandarin peel, sherbet lemon, triple sec, cardamom, cumin, licorice, allspice and a micro-hint of anise. The nose is a precise balancing act between citrus (mainly warm orange) on the one hand and a potpourri of herbs and spices on the other. Flavour & Texture: Initially sweet with an entry-note of orange liqueur, Earl Grey tea and rosewater. Herbal notes become apparent after a moment and the sweetness subsides just a little as it moves to the back of the palate, with soothing root and bark extracts (licorice, cassia, sweet cinnamon) gaining prominence. As you swallow, and on the late palate and aftertaste, a pleasantly soft bitterness develops with distinct petit wormwood and gentian. The texture is rich, but also curiously blithe and effortless. Montenegro is poised and complex, with a sweet character that is never cloying (but can be just a little syrupy) and a warm spicy personality that never drifts into harshness. There is a sense of “completeness” as it has aspects that are liqueur-like and others that are more reminiscent of aromatic bitters. The palate is complex but not overbearing and there is a lightness of touch throughout. It is also delightful as a cooler on a hot day. Try Montenegro neat over lots of crushed ice or to make a long drink just add soda water … or tonic … or dry ginger ale … or … anything, really. It is versatile and works as an extra seasoning or secret ingredient in almost any cocktail. Try substituting it, wholly or in part, for vermouth in your next Manhattan, negroni or Americano. And with that introduction, for your delectation, I present a cocktail that two friends and I came up with just last week that uses Montenegro to good effect. It was inspired by the Boulevardier (a close cousin of the negroni) which was invented by Erskine Gwynne in the 1920s. Mrs Cascode compared it to a steam locomotive - smoky, powerful, sexy and polished. So to keep the Parisian theme we named it: The Gare du Nord 45 ml mild smoky whisky (we used Rock Oyster, but any smoky blend would do) 30 ml Campari 30 ml Dolin rouge 5-10 ml Amaro Montenegro (to taste) Stir with ice in a mixing glass until chilled, then strain into a glass over fresh ice. Voilà. If you are not already familiar with Montenegro you should obtain a bottle and try it out. "Very Good" : 87/100 (4.25 stars)50.0 AUD per Bottle
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Bulleit Rye
Rye — Indiana (bottled in Kentucky), USA
Reviewed September 15, 2020 (edited October 14, 2020)Nose: Mild herbal/spicy. Quite pretty and floral (violets) with some green apple peel and beeswax. Palate: Spicy/sweet and a little hot on the arrival with fruity notes underneath (that green apple again). Honey and vanilla as it develops with the floral notes once more noticed. The texture is OK but nothing special. Finish: Medium/short. A little tannic on the aftertaste. A unusual mineral-like spice note lingers. The nose is more candied and soft than most ryes I've tried (although I admit my experience in this area is limited). The palate is acceptable but a little lacking in complexity and it has an almost effervescent quality on the finish that reminds me of baking soda (!) Just barely adequate for sipping, but honestly I'd never reach for this by choice. More than acceptable for mixing and reasonable value. Not much more to say. "Above Average" : 80/100 (3 stars)60.0 AUD per Bottle -
Glenmorangie Signet
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed September 14, 2020 (edited November 17, 2021)Nose: Spiced orange (not unlike an orange pomander ball), espresso coffee, pleasantly deep oak notes reminiscent of polished wooden dressers. Over time in the glass it gains body and as the bottle level drops and the whisky oxidizes the nose gains further woody notes and a definite sherry presence. There is an aromatic almost incense or perfume-like note that took me ages to pin down. It's freshly grated nutmeg. Adding water emphasizes the orange and nutmeg notes considerably. [Weirdly, on the dry glass I smell oil-paint. That smell of linseed oil you get when walking into a gallery that is showing recently finished artworks. There is an accompanying note of coffee, like the cold dregs of a cappuccino]. Palate: Spicy dark fruits, espresso and ginger lead the way on the arrival. The development sees a definite dark chocolate note emerge together with some cinnamon, and cocoa persists through into the aftertaste. There are also grassy and herbal flavours - mint, licorice and mustard - and the profile is woody and grassy throughout. The texture is good, with a light creaminess. There is a sweet foundation to the palate that is hidden on first tasting, but with each subsequent sip you sense it more. Adding water softens the overall presentation, but does not markedly change the character. Finish: Medium. Ginger, a hint of vanilla, unsweetened cocoa, and mild oak tannin. The aftertaste is dry with little waves of mocha and oak. A pleasant nose that only fails for me in that it seems somehow "over-polished". I prefer my whisky to be a little less engineered, but this is still very good. The palate has complexity and an interesting balance between spicy/sweet and bitter/dry. It is equal to the nose but again seems calculated and does not hold my attention or excite me. I certainly don't hate this whisky, on the contrary it is good, but I did feel a bit underwhelmed by it on first tasting and time has not changed that impression. I can't gather the enthusiasm to describe it as "very good" and the official rating here seems a little inflated to me. In the final analysis this is a good, but overpriced and over-hyped highland whisky. I paid AUS$180 for this a few years ago but now it is up to $240, and even at the original price I can think of many expressions I would prefer to buy. I won't be replacing this bottle when it is finished. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)180.0 AUD per Bottle -
McConnell's Irish Whisky 5 Year
Blended — Ireland
Reviewed September 11, 2020 (edited June 24, 2021)Nose: Vanilla langue du chat with a little orange essence. A retiring, musky cereal note. Palate: Semi-sweet watery cereal arrival. Nearly devoid of flavour apart from a suggestion of citrus and a memory of salt. The texture is soft but weak. Finish: There is no finish. This is the most anaemic whisky I've tasted for a good while. I thought the "Pure Scot" from Bladnoch that I tasted not long ago was bad, but this ... There is virtually nothing on the nose. A shy grainy vanilla presence and a sweet, vaguely musky overtone, and that's it. The palate is equally deserted. There is a bland cereal arrival, but no discernable development at all. Then suddenly it just stops dead in its tracks and is gone. The only significant aftertaste I get is the sweetness of grain spirit. I'm dumbfounded that this claims to be 5 years old - I've tasted new-make that has WAY more flavour. This is like neutral column-distilled spirit that has been matured in steel drums with a couple of old oak-staves thrown in for flavour. This bottle was just opened and I'm only on the second dram from the neck, so I'll give it a day or so and score it then, in case by some chance it evolves. -------------------------------- UPDATED WITH RATING After 48 hours this has changed its profile a little, but in both good and bad ways. To begin with it was bland but inoffensive as there was hardly anything to give offense. As it has oxidised, however, it has gained distinct notes on both nose and palate. Lightly buttery, creamy cereal, vanilla - a standard generic Irish blend profile. The problem is that along with the improvement there is a hard, bitter almost sour note in the finish. This is noticed even when it is mixed with Coke. I'm giving it the same rating I gave The Dubliner as it's very much in that ballpark, and like The Dubliner it is also overpriced. "Inferior" : 69/100 (1.75 stars)60.0 AUD per Bottle -
Berry Bros. & Rudd Classic Blended Malt Sherry Cask Matured
Blended Malt — Scotland
Reviewed September 11, 2020 (edited February 9, 2024)Nose: Strong oloroso sherry presence. Raisins, resinous oak, rancio, brown sugar, treacle, orange oil. There is a distinct, and highly intrusive, note of sulphur. If you start to nose this carefully from a few inches away, slowly drawing closer to the glass, at a certain point you will suddenly catch a big, unmistakable whiff of sherry with no whisky presence at all. Then as you get closer the whisky notes win out. Palate: Dark fruit, burnt sugar and black tea on the arrival. Some sweet orange and red berries in the development. Dark, slightly over-cooked Christmas cake. The texture is full but not heavy and there is a smidge of oaky bitterness. Once again there is a sulphur taint that shows as a rubbery black-olive note. Finish: Medium. Fruity, treacle pudding fading out to dark chocolate and a hint of orange marmalade. Berry Bros. & Rudd are the UK’s oldest wine and spirits merchants. They have been the British royal family’s appointed wine supplier for over 200 years and have held royal warrants since 1903. This is one of four blended malts they first released in 2018 as their “Classic Range”. The other expressions are Peated Cask, Islay Blended and Classic Speyside. The moment I first nosed this, the following farcical Noël Coward-ish exchange popped into my mind: “Darling … “ “Hmmm?” “Add a bottle of whisky to the BB&R order, would you? There’s a dear … the Fortescue-Smythes are coming next week and I believe he prefers whisky” “Do you know what brand?” “Oh, I wouldn't have the slightest idea – they all taste the same, don't they? Just ask them to include something that will go with pheasant and retired colonel”. This blend would be an adequate choice if you are unfamiliar with scotch whisky and want to experience an old-school, sulphur-tainted sherried presentation without spending a lot. You won’t really regret the experience and you will learn most of what there is to know about both the positives and negatives of the style. However if you are already familiar with Glenrothes, Tamdhu, Benrinnes, GlenDronach or Glengoyne then you pretty much know this profile already along with all its attendant joys and disappointments. A single malt from any of the above distilleries will be more interesting and most likely of better quality (but also probably more expensive). The vatting of this blend is not revealed but I’d wager there is a high percentage of young Glenrothes. It has that slightly rubbery, brimstone-industrial quality Glenrothes often displays. This was very noticeable when the bottle was first opened however it oxidised quickly over a few days and now that the level is down past the shoulder it is more enjoyable. It is also improved by adding a teaspoon of water to the dram and allowing it to sit and rest in the glass for a while. This reduces the sulphurous note whilst bringing out fresher, fruitier qualities. “Very, Very Average” : 75/100 (2.5 stars)80.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Soft, gentle and led by subtle wood aromas that remind me of cedarwood shavings. Malted barley, cereal, fresh and dried apple, a touch of brine and some grassy notes. You certainly smell grain whisky, but it's high quality. I get very little of the smoky note that is often mentioned. Palate: Silky-sweet, dulcet cereal arrival - very welcoming. There is nothing whatsoever confrontational about this palate. Orchard fruits appear in mid-palate balanced by a subtle salt note and a miniscule hint of spice. There is also a toffee/fudge presence and if you let this whisky sit for a while to open in the glass it becomes more obvious. However the immediate core of the palate is dilute black tea, and way in the distance there is some smoke, but it is vanishingly light. Finish: Short. Fades out into a generic grain whisky character, with the weak tea and some watery cereal being all that remain on the aftertaste. Whether or not you like this will depend entirely on whether you enjoy old-school blended scotch, because that is the profile here in spades. It is remarkably easy to drink and soft, dare I say "smooth", and at the risk of being outrageously politically incorrect it is a very "feminine" profile. Unlike the Ballantine's Finest and 12 year old blends (both of which I quite like) this is not crafted to be used as a mixer or diluted in any way - unless perhaps with just a dash of soda water. It is intended specifically for neat consumption and is made to be as agreeable and accommodating as possible. This is a whisky that even non-whisky drinkers will enjoy. It is similar to Haig Gold Label and in common with that expression it has an intentionally muted malt presence and a dependence on good quality, soft grain whisky. If this sounds like the sort of thing you like then you will certainly enjoy this whisky. However if you crave sharply defined, highly-lit flavours and aromas then look elsewhere because this will seem watery. I'm enjoying this bottle, which I picked up on special at about 2/3 normal price (the price given below is the normal retail) but even at that discount I probably wouldn't bother buying it again. "Above Average" : 82/100 (3.25 stars)100.0 AUD per Bottle
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Bunnahabhain 24 year (1987/2011) Duncan Taylor Rare Auld
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed September 7, 2020 (edited July 9, 2022)Nose (neat): High proof mead, dried apples, dried pears, dried peaches, dried apricots. There are beautiful supple oak notes with an aromatic sandalwood character. The nose is quite spirity - not that there is an overt alcohol aroma, it's just one of those noses with a strong "nip" that sort of curls the nostril hairs. It's brisk, clean and powerful but also sweet and very attractive. After a few minutes, as the initial vapours burn off, it becomes deeper and more honeyed with orange oil and beeswax aromas. Lurking in the background is the tiniest wisp of maritime character. I could enjoy this nose for days. Nose (watered): A drop or two of water makes it softer and more elegant, with bouquets of flowers emerging - jonquils, roses, honeysuckle - arranged skilfully in a bowl on a heavily waxed old dresser. Stunning, but I think I prefer the neat nose even more. Adding more water takes it to a place where the nose transforms into a melange of waxy honeyed notes, that is delicious and very soothing. The dry glass aroma (neat) is entirely floral. Palate (neat): Wham! A big, forceful arrival of dried fruit and big, soft chewy tannins. It's not even slightly dry but like the nose it is spirity in a good way. Not hot, but you know for sure that you are tasting something with high abv. The development is most unusual because seemingly from nowhere a glorious bloom of honeycomb suddenly bursts forth accompanied by ginger syrup and hazelnuts. The texture is slightly oily but balanced by grippy tannins that build towards the finish. As it rests in the glass the sweet characteristics in the development become more prominent. Palate (watered): Elegant, sophisticated, poised and finely nuanced. The arrival is softened considerably and the palate changes to a tray of juicy orchard fruits, drizzled in honey. It also develops a delightful mist, testament to its non-filtered nature. Finish: Medium. Sweet and fruity, fading to light spicy cinnamon astringincy. The addition of water mutes the aftertaste to a light buzz. I was getting a little tired of tasting liqueurs and gin, and with some friends coming over this weekend to play cards it was time to dive into the stash and open a malt whisky. The Longrow Red 11 year old I opened a couple of months ago is now on its last legs, and this Duncan Taylor Bunnahabhain 24 seemed like a worthy follow-up. This is part of their "Rare Auld" series. It was distilled in 1987 and spent its entire life in the one cask before being bottled in November 2011. The outturn was 399 bottles, of which mine is number 213. I bought it in 2013 when it cost AUS$230 and it's long out of stock now but I have seen it listed for around £250 on the UK secondaries. The profile of this single cask whisky is totally different to that of the older OB Bunnahabhain whiskies I've tasted. Certainly nothing at all like the excellent 18 and 25 year olds, but equally as good. They have a far darker presentation with immense sherry and dark fruits, whereas this is light and honeyed. I don't know what the casking was but the outturn was probably too big for a hoggie, so maybe it was a sherry cask, but if so it must have been 2nd fill. Highly recommended. If you see a bottle at a good price, don't hesitate. "Excellent" : 89/100 (4.75 stars)230.0 AUD per Bottle -
Patrón XO Cafe
Coffee Liqueurs — Los Altos, Jalisco, Mexico
Reviewed September 5, 2020 (edited December 8, 2020)Appearance: Dark mahogany/burnt sienna. Opaque. Aroma: A mild coffee aroma similar to that of drip-filter black coffee. An odd overtone of alcohol with an oily component. Flavour and Texture: Thick, syrupy and very sweet on the arrival. Sugar was the first thing I tasted. That was followed by a mild black coffee flavour and then a subtle note of alcohol that is quickly identified as tequila, but although it's obvious, it's not intrusive or out of place. The finish is fairly long and the tequila presence lasts. This is amazingly sweet and syrupy - I mean *really* sweet. It tasted to me like a cup of generic black coffee with about 10 teaspoons of white sugar and a dash of tequila added. For my palate it is way over the top in sweetness. Also, although tequila works in this context and is not unpleasant I much prefer rum, cognac or neutral spirit as a base for a coffee liqueur. That's not a criticism of the drink per se, just my taste preference, and although I've tried to be objective there is something about this liqueur that does not appeal to me. The many elephants in the room are, of course, the other coffee liqueurs that have appeared over the last few years and which are around the same price but considerably superior to this one. Tasted from a distillery-issued 50ml miniature. "Adequate" : 70/100 (2.25 stars65.0 AUD per Bottle -
Baileys Original Irish Cream
Dairy/Egg Liqueurs — Ireland
Reviewed September 5, 2020 (edited February 27, 2023)Appearance: Beige, creamy and viscous. Aroma: Vanilla nougat, milk chocolate, very mild nuttiness, muted whiskey. Flavour and Texture: Creamy, rich, well balanced cocoa and spicy notes. The influence of whiskey is more notable in the palate than the nose, even if defined whisky flavours are not. I can't believe I've never reviewed Bailey's here before. Not only because it is so popular and well known, but because it is so frequently in our refrigerator. Mrs Cascode has a fondness for it and I'm no stranger to it myself. It's a pleasant, comfy drop for when you occasionally want a creamy sweet after dinner. I think of it as the alcohol equivalent of fudge, or a somewhat ratty but very comfortable old cardigan. The most fascinating thing about Bailey's is its inception. There is nothing historic or traditional about this stuff - it was invented by a marketing team in 1973 and the original recipe took about 45 minutes to formulate, using ingredients bought from the supermarket near their office. The only reason it exists was because David Gluckman and his partner were handed a consultancy to invent a drink that would use Irish spirits in order to exploit a government tax break that had been negotiated by their client. If you want to read a fascinating account about this find Gluckman's book "That S**t Will Never Sell" or go here for a long extract from the first chapter: https://www.irishtimes.com/culture/books/in-1973-i-invented-a-girly-drink-called-baileys-1.3240945 It's a riveting read. The really sobering thing is how much this happens. Very few liqueurs have an authentic artisan history, folk roots, or were created through passion just to bring a new taste sensation to the world. The majority of liqueurs only exist because sometime, somewhere, someone in a marketing department wanted a new product to compete with an existing one. Anyway, this is still pleasant and perfectly drinkable. Like most well-engineered liqueurs, it works, and Bailey's is substantially cheaper than most of its imitators. The official tasting notes and score are right on target. "Average" : 78/100 (2.75 stars)29.0 AUD per Bottle -
Coole Swan Irish Cream Liqueur
Dairy/Egg Liqueurs — Ireland
Reviewed September 5, 2020 (edited August 8, 2022)Appearance: Off-white, creamy, viscous. Very like fresh cream. Aroma: Vanilla, butter, cream, a note of whiskey but it's very mild and shy. Flavour and Texture: Creamy vanilla and white chocolate with a low-key alcohol background that is barely recognizable as whiskey. Some very quiet spice notes (nutmeg, cinnamon). The texture is thick and creamy, but not as heavy as some liqueurs. Another Irish cream liqueur competing for a share of a very profitable market. To all intents and purposes this is Bailey's Irish Cream without any cacao, but don't take that as harsh criticism. It's pleasant and I have a sweet tooth so I enjoy such cream liqueurs a lot, but they are all engineered from the same template and none has much complexity. In its class, if you like this style of drink, it's perfectly OK and I can't imagine anyone actively disliking it. "Average" : 79/100 (2.75 stars)50.0 AUD per Bottle
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