Tastes
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Jack Daniel's Old No. 7
Tennessee Whiskey — Tennessee, USA
Reviewed November 19, 2020 (edited February 27, 2023)Nose: Spirity but full. Banana and apple, vanilla, corn syrup and oak. There is a spicy heat to the aromas. Palate: Sweet, hot arrival. Caramel and oak tannin. There is a hard bittersweet note and overall the palate is harsher than the nose. Finish: Short. Spicy. Burnt sugar, burnt bananas and ethanol on the aftertaste. This is the first pour of Jack I’ve had in years, and it seems different. I recall it being sweeter and less tannic. It also displays little complexity. Pretty rough and ready stuff really, and to be honest I thought it was close to undrinkable unless mixed. However adding sweet soft drink to this transforms it. Coke is the classic mixer but ginger ale and even lemonade work just as well. It is exactly the same trick that affordable blended scotch plays – the hard tannic notes balance the sugar and dilution allows what little personality it has to bloom. It’s also much improved by a dash of bitters. If I had to choose a Jack Daniels’s to buy I’d go for Gentleman Jack over this. Part of the issue is the price in Australia, as at $55 this is very poor value in comparison to any budget scotch, which offers similar quality for 2/3 the price. Re-tasted from a 50ml distillery miniature. “Adequate” : 70/100 (2 stars)55.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Dilute artificial coconut essence. Huge vanilla note. Palate: Sugar water. Thin coconut flavour, a tiny buzz of ethanol. Finish: Short. Sweet. This is exactly as I expected. It’s not actually foul-tasting, but it’s weirdly nebulous and almost attractively artificial. The official tasting notes are absolutely right – it tastes exactly of coconut without actually tasting of coconut. Actually, in a funny way it reminds me of vanilla cake icing. It’s also about as far removed from rum as anything I can imagine, but again, it’s not nasty. There’s little more to say. Add your choice of soft drink [lemonade or ginger beer work very well] or tropical juice [iconically, pineapple of course] and bang – instant low alcohol cooler. There are way worse things to drink, but just every now and then try making a real piña colada from scratch – it’s ... better. 1 part nice crisp silver rum (doesn't have to be expensive), 1 part coconut cream, 3 parts freshly squeezed pineapple juice. Shake well with crushed ice and serve. Summertime bliss. In a funny way I can respect Malibu – like Sailor Jerry it has no pretensions or snobbery about it at all – it just says “have fun”. There are worse philosophies. “Adequate” : 73/100 (2.25 stars)30.0 AUD per Bottle
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Appearance: Brown with deep red and old gold highlights. It looks like a bourbon or sherried whisky. Aroma: Baking spices, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, liquorice a hint of raisin and citrus peel. Flavour and Texture: Elegantly sweet, warming and spicy like mulled wine and akin in some ways to semi-sweet sherry. A touch of vanilla, grape and plum with the merest hint of bitterness in the finish. The bitter note becomes more obvious with repeated sipping. A wonderful vermouth that took me by surprise the first time I tasted it as I had no idea that vermouth could be this good. The profile is like a combination of excellent medium sherry, sarsparilla and mulled claret. It is deep and rich but also light and the palate retains a crisp quality throughout. This is so good it is almost a shame to use it for mixing. I very much enjoy a glass neat (but chilled) and it also makes a very good spritz, particularly with a semi-sweet sparkling wine. For a long time I only used cheaper vermouth and I never got the attraction of the drink, but one taste of this and I was hooked. If you are serious about your mixed drinks that call for sweet vermouth, then use this – that’s all there is to it. It will transform your recipes. I’m not saying this is the “best” vermouth but it stands proudly alongside the finest examples on the top shelf. Like all vermouth it should be used fairly soon after opening as it will oxidise strongly – think of the time frame over which you would keep a vintage port after opening, it’s about the same, but definitely keep this one in the fridge. If you do not think you will get through a bottle then decant some and give it away to friends. “Outstanding” : 90/100 (5 stars)65.0 AUD per Bottle
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Appleton Estate Signature Blend Rum
Gold Rum — Jamaica
Reviewed November 12, 2020 (edited July 17, 2022)Nose: Fruity, demerara sugar, cane sugar, vanilla pods and a touch of barrel character. The merest hint of hogo – nothing to be scared of, it's faint and just adds character. Palate: Sweet and spicy entry – assertive but not overbearing. It develops into brown and raw sugar notes with some vanilla. The texture is a little thin, but that’s actually not a negative – it’s equally not cloying or over-sugared, and the profile is dry overall, which is fine by me. Finish: Short. Mild and a little underwhelming. As a sipping rum it’s OK, about on a par with entry-level blended scotch so nothing horrible, just ... OK. However as a mixer this nails it and it’s brilliant in a Cuba libre. The character of the rum shows through but without being sickly or dominating and I look forward to using it in other mixed drinks and cocktails. I think this could successfully substitute for a white rum in many contexts, where it would contribute a little more character but not change the essential nature of the drink. Good stuff at a fair price. The official notes and rating are on target. “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)39.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Brown sugar, molasses, caramel. It's all about cooked-sugar aromas and there is no nuance or complexity. Palate: The arrival is full of blackstrap molasses and treacle. As it progresses it loses some of the heavy arrival characteristics and settles down to caramel, butterscotch and gingerbread. There are some cheerful lime and cinnamon notes, but it seems a bit flat. The texture is neutral, but at least it’s not cloying. Finish: Medium. Molasses and brown sugar, fading to demerara sugar. An OK but rather ordinary dark rum. Good in a dark and stormy but that’s about it. There is no nuance or refinement of profile and it lacks hogo, but it is at least on the dry side of the profile divide - if this was sweet it would be diabolical. I’ve tried it several ways now, but nothing so far has inspired me. It’s not a sipping rum, there is not enough character for that, but as a mixer it tends to disappear, which was unexpected. Ginger ale is the best mixing choice. I actually bought this as the base for a batch of crème de cacao liqueur I’m making and I’ve just been tasting it neat and experimenting with the 200ml I didn’t need after setting up the infusion. It guess it’s not terrible value as an all-rounder, but frankly this is the first and last bottle I intend to buy. It’s just ... dull. Mind you - if I was a pirate in 18th century Bermuda I'd probably have lived on this stuff. “Average” : 77/100 (2.5 stars)65.0 AUD per Bottle
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Jack Daniel's Gentleman Jack
Tennessee Whiskey — Tennessee, USA
Reviewed November 11, 2020 (edited February 27, 2023)Nose: Banana flambé in brown sugar, nail polish, vanilla, a hint of cherry syrup and a little oak. Palate: Sweet, smooth arrival turning quickly spicy and slightly aggressive. Popcorn, bananas in syrup. The body is light but the mouthfeel slightly creamy, which is pleasant, however it seems two-dimensional. Finish: Short. Brown sugar and banana. There is a note of coconut in the aftertaste and once you have noticed it there you also detect it in the palate on subsequent tastes. This does not have the depth of character you want in a sipping whisky and while the nose is well defined the palate is thin. Adding water just dilutes it without bringing anything notable forward. However, dilution with a sweet soft drink like Coke, lemonade or dry ginger ale is a different story as that fills in the gaps in the palate, creating a more enjoyable and balanced drink. In particular, when it’s diluted with Coke I noticed a pleasant apple flavour that I'd missed initially. A dash of bitters also seems to work magic with this whiskey (and with all Jack Daniels) but in the end I can't shake the sensation that what I'm smelling and tasting here is just essence of toasted American oak and sugar-maple carried in an ethanol and water solution. At first I didn’t think much of this whiskey but as I worked my way through the bottle over a fortnight, using it exclusively in long drinks, I came to enjoy it. It's not very interesting but neither is it unpleasant when used as a mixer, and it certainly has less of the prominent, thick sweetness of Jack Daniels Old No. 7. "Average" : 79/100 (2.75 stars)53.0 AUD per Bottle -
St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur
Floral Liqueurs — France
Reviewed November 10, 2020 (edited April 17, 2022)Appearance: Pale straw. Aroma: Lychee syrup with suggestions of peach liqueur, citrus peel, jasmine and muscat grape juice. Palate: Intense but crisp sweetness based around lychees, honey-water and elderflower. The sweetness is balanced by elegant acidic notes led by grapefruit and a touch of sweet lemon. There is a light spice touch like lemon and ginger tea and the overall sweet character is more akin to honeysuckle nectar than sugar syrup. The texture is viscous but avoids being cloying on the finish. Finish: Medium/long. Lychee, peach, gooseberry and grapefruit. The nose on this is comparatively simple and very direct. I have a suspicion that all the subtle sweet notes I found are merely different characteristics of elderflower. The palate is crisp, commanding and straightforward with a character like an acidic, fruity young white wine. Complex liqueurs such as Benedictine and Chartreuse were originally created for neat consumption, either as tonics or for pleasure, although most if not all such liqueurs have now found their way into mixed drinks. In contrast, I'd classify this elderflower liqueur with other tightly focused liqueurs like triple sec and maraschino that were designed specifically as cocktail ingredients to add one sharply defined spice note in cocktails. This can be enjoyed as a neat liqueur but if you are taking it that way I highly recommend serving it chilled straight from the fridge, or even freezer. This highlights its crispness and counterbalances the sweetness. I also love the very cool art moderne bottle and it's almost tempting to give it another quarter-point just for that. "Very Good" : 87/100 (4.25 stars)73.0 AUD per Bottle -
Plantation 3 Stars White Rum
Silver Rum — Multiple Countries
Reviewed November 9, 2020 (edited July 18, 2022)Nose: White and demerara sugar are the immediate aromas along with agave syrup. The nose is restrained but has body. Behind the sugar top-notes there is an array of fruity notes and some toasted coconut flakes. The overall impression is of richness and whilst ethanol is noticed it does not dominate the nose. Palate: Very pleasant arrival – smooth and sweet but not merely sugary. There is a plush fruity quality and a grassy note that is slightly reminiscent of a rhum agricole. The mid-palate develops a sweetness more akin to agave syrup than cane-syrup and this grows to dominate the palate, but it is balanced somewhat by a light spicy zing. The texture is creamy and glycerous. Finish: Medium/short. The palate fades softly into a sweet demerara aftertaste with grassy, waxy notes. The neat nose is very pleasant but does not provide an exciting aromatic experience, and neither should it do so. Similarly, the palate is an exercise in "subtle richness" (if there is such a thing) with dark-sugared fruit flavours that are full but subdued. That said, it is notable how much this spirit seems to gain sweetness when diluted - I guess that's the trademark Plantation dosage showing up and it can verge on cloyingly sweet, so if you have a particular aversion to very sweet rum this might not be a good choice as a mixer. The profile may not sound particularly interesting but it does enhance rather than compete with the other ingredients in a cocktail. Be aware, however, that on occasion this can actually be too powerful for some drinks - I do not like it at all in a pina colada, for example, because that drink needs a crisp quality to work best, and this rum is far too sweet for the task (for my palate, anyway). It is well structured and acceptable neat or on the rocks as a sipping rum but I'd strongly suggest adding a slice of lime or lemon to help balance the sweet profile. Plantation 3 Star is a good rum to use as the basis for cocktail experimentation, but just keep its sweetness in mind and reduce the quantity of other sweet ingredients that may be called for (like simple syrup or agave syrup), if possible. It is well priced and one of the white rums I regularly buy, along with Flor de Cana Seco and Mount Gay Silver, depending on what is on special at the time. "Above Average" : 82/100 (3.25 stars)60.0 AUD per Bottle -
Appearance: Amber gold. Aroma: Citrus peel and honey are the dominant notes, built upon a foundation of spice and herbal extracts so elaborate as to prohibit analysis. It is a nose possessed of such complexity it presents as one balanced aroma that is simultaneously sweet, floral, herbal and earthy. Flavour and Texture: Intense honey sweetness in the arrival with a thick mouth-coating texture. The palate is warming at first, then hot and spicy with sweet cinnamon, clove, ginger, saffron, citrus peel, and many other flavours. Herbal notes become more prominent in mid palate before it transitions to a long spiced-honey finish. Bénédictine is a monumental liqueur - I'm dismayed it has only 25 tastes here and no official review. In my opinion it is at its best when taken neat. No ice, no water - nothing. Just by itself in a small glass. Ponder it, savour it. It does also have a rapport with chocolate and coffee and there are few finer resolutions to a meal than a small glass of Bénédictine with a demitasse of black coffee. Bénédictine is also an essential base for several iconic cocktails including the Singapore Sling, Poet's Dream, Bobby Burns, Brainstorm, Honeymoon, Queen Elizabeth and Monte Carlo. For the fearless of heart it can be consumed as a B&B (Bénédictine and cognac in equal measure) but don't blame me for the hangover. If you have never tasted Bénédictine, you should. It is one of the finest liqueurs in existence. "Outstanding" : 92/100 (5 stars)74.0 AUD per Bottle
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Lillet Blanc
Other Aromatized Wine — Bordeaux, France
Reviewed November 9, 2020 (edited August 10, 2022)Appearance: Bright straw-gold Aroma: Sweet white grape juice, peach, apricot, orange blossom water and honey. Flavour and Texture: Sweet, crisp vibrant entry. Lime marmalade, honey and ripe apricots. There are some light citrus notes and a very faint hint of resin, but it's barely noticed. The texture is silky, but also crisp. The nose is very reminiscent of moscato, white muscat or a noble riesling and the palate follows suit. The only way this diverges from a sweet dessert wine is the hint of bitterness in the background and a more lightly textured body. The bitter notes are from citrus and cinchona bark extract (but the quinine component was greatly reduced 1986). The older, more bitter product that predated this was called Kina Lillet, and if you want to get an idea of what it tasted like grab a bottle of Cocchi Americano Aperitivo, which is quite similar. Lillet is excellent neat over ice as a refreshing aperitif and also delightful as a spritz or long drink. Lillet and tonic is a great two-ingredient drink but it seems to be something of a secret - it's a fabulous alternative to a gin & tonic when you feel like less alcohol. Try experimenting with a dash of amaro or bitters and a variety of garnishes as well. If you want to beef it up try adding a little cognac. It appears in many old-school cocktails but remember these were originally created with the older Kina Lillet as the ingredient, so contemporary Lillet may result in an unbalanced level of sweetness. If you do get this impression I'd recommend a drop or two of grapefruit bitters to restore the balance. A refined but light-hearted classic that should be in every bar. "Excellent" : 88/100 (4.5 stars)40.0 AUD per Bottle
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