Tastes
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Talisker Port Ruighe
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed September 6, 2019 (edited November 14, 2024)Re-review: November 14, 2024 Nose: Spirity, mild peat smoke, sharp berry, grape and citrus aromas. The nose gets earthier over time. Palate: Dry, peaty arrival with unripe fruit and sour berries. Hot, tannic flavours in the development with a strong bitter quality, brine and metallic notes. The texture is a little on the thin side. Finish: Short. Bitter and herbal with a background of burnt wood. A little water softens and sweetens the profile but even with reduction this remains just a very average bitter and slightly salty whisky with a moderate peat level. I last reviewed this here 5 years ago and I bought a bottle last year when I saw it on special. I opened it today to re-taste as I was planning on using it in a tasting flight I’m presenting in a couple of weeks. However having now revisited it I’ve decided not to include it as this whisky is not of a standard that is equal to the other whiskies on the card. Although I was not overly impressed with it in 2019 this current tasting (from a bottle with batch code L2227 CM016, so 2022 bottling) is even less agreeable. In fact, reading my previous review (see below) I can hardly identify this as the same juice. “Adequate” : 72/100 (2 stars) ------------------------------------------------------------------- Original review: September 6, 2019 Nose: Soft and and rounded with equal quantities of red wine and smoke. Dried fruit, bacon and earth. As it opens, fresh fruits and oak cask become noticeable. [The dry glass aroma is slightly smoky red wine]. Palate: A good arrival that is equally dry and sweet. Mildly astringent tannins from both the wood and fortified wine hit the palate and are then immediately followed by sweet and tart grape notes. Fast on the tail of this is a very quick development featuring bitter orange and herbs. Finish: Very short. Some faint, dilute coffee, chocolate and wine in the aftertaste. I'm not much impressed by this one. It's all sweet, safe woody notes and muted character until it falls apart half way through and turns bitter. After a good nose and promising arrival the dram finishes very abruptly. The texture is also rather austere and thin. Tasted from a 30ml sample. "Average" : 79/100 (2.75 stars)120.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Mild peat smoke, brine, sulphur, banana. The nose becomes more honied and leathery after a rest in the glass and the nose is WAY more fragrant and floral with a dash of water. Palate: Good arrival with salt ‘n peppered malt and some sweet chilli. Mineral notes (the faintest hint of mescal) and oak tannin playing off honey and maple syrup. There is a smoky quality but it is subtle. Again, a dash of water greatly improves this whisky making the texture creamy and softening the whole profile in a charming manner. Finish: Medium. Faint smoke, salted chocolate fading to a sweet aftertaste. The finish is much softened by reduction. The nose has an unmistakable whiff of fermentation sulphur and while that is welcome in some malts (Springbank, Ben Nevis, Mortlach etc.) it is not carried as well by Talisker. It does, however, fade very quickly in the glass leaving a malty, leafy quality. The palate is fine and the finish is fine … overall this is … fine. This is my first taste of Storm in 5 years (thank you to @DrRHCMadden for the sample) and it is of the expression in the new livery. However, looking at my previous tasting notes below, this seems to be essentially the same whisky as I tasted in 2019 and I would again suggest taking it with a good splash of water. I previously rated this at 4 stars, but I must have been in a very good mood that day because it’s not worth that much so I’m reducing the rating to something more rational this time. It's a fine session whisky but it is overshadowed by the better, but similarly priced, Talisker 10 Year. And again I’m scratching my head at the name. This is a gentle shower … a passing squall at best. It ain’t no storm. “Good” 84/100 (3.75 stars) --------------------------------------------------- Previous review: September 6, 2019. Nose: Mildly briny smoke (more like fruity wood smoke than peat-reek), citrus peel, a slight mineral iodine note (eliciting sea breezes), some mossy peat, a hint of honey. [The dry glass is mild ashy smoke with a sweet tone]. Palate: Sweet and spicy arrival, opening into a smoky development with citrus fruit and capsicum. There's a little black pepper but it's restrained in comparison to other Talisker expressions and the sweet character returns on the late palate. The texture is fairly neutral but improved by reduction, which adds creaminess. Finish: Medium/short. Ashy smoke and some brine on the aftertaste. This is well named as there is a definite maritime quality to this malt, with the nose convincingly conveying the impression of a brisk sea breeze before a tempest. However the eponymous storm loses its force before landfall and is not the expected blustery sou'wester, crashing on the Atlantic rocks of Skye. This is more a light squall - a little threatening at sea, but romantic and cosy if on shore. It certainly doesn't rattle the windows of the bothy like the Dark Storm expression, or blow them off the hinges like the 57 Degrees North. Adding a dash of water does this dram no harm at all. The nose coalesces and broadens while the palate picks up some sweet notes and mutes its spice. This is maybe not what a confirmed Talisker-head would like, but I'd commend it to beginners It's a pleasant and most acceptable whisky crafted to appeal to landlubbers. In fact if properly watered this would be an admirable first "smoky" dram. The official comments here are pretty much on the money, but I don't think it's worth 88/100. It's an appealing whisky but not earth shattering - in Australia for about $5 more you can buy Talisker 10, which is whisky with balls. There is also, if you taste it dispassionately, more than a passing similarity to certain blended scotches, and I have to confess that now I'm a quarter of the way through the bottle I've given up on tasting it neat or with water, and instead I've been using it up as a mixer instead of my usual bottom-shelf blend. It's great in this role but I guess that's damning with faint praise. "Very Good" : 86/100 (4 stars)100.0 AUD per Bottle
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GlenDronach Peated Port Wood
Single Malt — Highland, Scotland
Reviewed September 4, 2019 (edited September 5, 2019)Nose: Dark fruits and sherry, deep aromatic floral fruit notes intertwined with tendrils of subtle and sumptuously soft earthy peat-smoke. As it opens, more fresh berry fruits become noticed along with apricot liqueur and peach nectar, and it gains a nicely balancing malty hint. A sudden waft of gunpowder is a surprise after it has rested for a while! Palate: Full, rich and grapey-sweet in the arrival, quickly developing an almost mineral styled peat reek. There is no trace whatsoever of plastic or putty notes in the crisp fruity and cereal-laden developed palate, decorated with just a flourish of peat smoke. The texture is perfection - creamy, oily and luxurious. Finish: Medium/long. A figgy, date-centred fruitiness prevails until a touch of brine and spicy tannin carries it off to the lingering end. Lovely. I tasted this hot on the heels of the standard peated GlenDronach (both of which are now hard to find, I think) and I'm conflicted as to which is the superior dram. The Standard peated is lighter but this has an exquisite profile. If you're not generally a fan of peated whiskies and have never enjoyed the heft and punch of Islay smokies, then I commend these wine-sozzled GlenDronach expressions to your attention. They will convert the staunchest sherry-bomb fan. A very pleasant and non-confrontational dram that will please but not test the taster, it's quite the seductress and I may just buy a full bottle. Tasted from a 30ml sample. "Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)115.0 AUD per Bottle -
GlenDronach Peated
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed September 4, 2019 (edited August 10, 2023)Nose: Sweet sherry and berry aromas mingle inextricably with a relaxed and shy peat smoke that seems to melt into all corners of the nose without becoming intrusive. Some honeyed notes and fruity aromas waft in the background together with just a touch of vanilla marshmallow. Palate: More immediately smoky on the arrival than you would expect from the nose and quite sweet. Malty and mildly smoked characteristics begin to dominate as it develops, but this is not an arrogant peat-monster. The texture is pleasantly creamy, there are some light fruity notes and just the faintest salty touch. Finish: Medium/short. Fruity and gently smoky with a mild salty aftertaste and a surprise chocolate fudge note right at the end. The nose is very soft and relaxed, pretty even, but nonetheless expressive. Just because it's not a peat-monster don't assume this is weak or anaemic. In fact if anything this is probably genuinely like the character of many Speyside whiskies 150 years ago when a smoky profile was still the norm. The palate carries more forward smoke but it is that bonfire sort of peat smoke typical of mainland peated whisky, with nary a trace of medicinal or iodine notes. The PX casks are handled with skill here, contributing a scintilla of sweet spiciness but not being allowed to control the proceedings. If Laphroaig 10 is Jackson Pollock's Autumn Rhythm No. 30, this is one of Jean-Jacque Hennier's many Red Haired Beauties. Delightful and seductive - I've yet to have a bad GlenDronach. The current fashion is for sledgehammer peated drams, but neglect the subtle ones at your peril. Tasted from a 30ml sample. "Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)90.0 AUD per Bottle -
Glenlossie 10 Year Flora & Fauna
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed September 2, 2019 (edited September 25, 2019)Nose: Butter, cream, vanilla, heather honey, marshmallows, orchard fruits, a touch of sherry and fragrant wood. Palate: A creamy sweet arrival full of barley sugar and vanilla bean. The development is fast and rather small - little extra is added apart from some fruity and light spice tones. The texture, however, is very appealing. Finish: Medium/short. Cereal and honeyed with a slight spicy, briny note to the aftertaste. Not a particularly complex malt, but very pretty. The nose is seductive and together with the texture these are the two standout features of the dram. The palate is a little disappointing, not because it shows any great fault, it's just rather simplistic and one dimensional. I allowed this to sit for some time but there was not much development to the nose and virtually zero to the palate. I'd wager good money that Diagio uses this in their blends as a "carrier" malt to bloom the texture of a top-dressing malt that has more character, like Clynelish (they use Cardhu for this purpose as well). Water does the nose no favours, simply diluting its aromas and bringing out a slightly funky grassy note. The palate, however, broadens quite a bit and gains more spice - again, this exactly what you want to have happen in a blend that will most likely be used for mixing. It probably sounds as though I'm dismissing this whisky as a lightweight blend component and nothing more, but I actually quite enjoyed it and would consider buying a bottle. It would be a delightfully comforting and soft nightcap for those times when you feel like something soft and easy. In that regard it reminds me of Strathisla - not in profile (the two are quite different) but that's also a very safe, soft and comforting dram. However while I'd happily pay the reasonable asking price for Strathisla, this whisky costs about 50% more and the expense is not really justified. The official Distiller review is on the money - in fact all the user reviews here are on target. A perfectly nice whisky, just not very memorable and not really worth a recommendation. On the other hand I wouldn't say no to a free pour. Tasted from a 30ml sample. "Average" : 78/100 (2.75 stars)130.0 AUD per Bottle -
Aberlour 18 Year Double Cask Matured
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed September 1, 2019 (edited November 1, 2020)Nose: A foundation note of big, full, rich sherry. There's a marvellous aroma of citrus that is mid-way between orange and lemon zest. Apricot, vanilla, chamomile tea and chocolate fudge are noticeable and over time the aroma of oak begins to cut through. A fleeting floral tone flits about the sidelines. It's an impressively classy and enveloping nose. [The dry glass aroma is dark chocolate]. Palate: The arrival is like dark, bitter, chocolate-covered raisins dipped in orange and cherry liqueur. The development brings leathery and sweet tobacco notes together with dark (slightly sour) cherries, peaches, mixed peel, arrowroot biscuits, hard molasses toffee, dark fruit cake, stem ginger and mildly spicy tannins. There is a warm roundness to the lightly oily texture. Finish: Medium/long. Espresso, raisins, dried figs, tobacco. A lingering aftertaste of cocoa powder. This is an excellent whisky that evolves over time and continually shifts, revealing facets of its confident and assured complexity throughout the tasting. The nose holds the fruitier elements while the palate presents more earthy tastes, but the transition and flow of the whisky is what you notice most. There is a story and a journey here. This whisky eloquently demonstrates authority without bombast and it's far too refined to be described as a sherry bomb. The official Distiller tasting notes are precise and perceptive. The addition of water makes little difference to the profile but dilutes the experience. This is best taken neat, preferably accompanied by a platter of brie and walnuts, or some other strongly flavoured savory/sweet food to balance the sweet fruit notes and compliment the tobacco and tannin flavours. I'm sure it would also be excellent with a small mild cigar. "Very Good" : 87/100 (4.25 stars)225.0 AUD per Bottle -
Dalwhinnie Distillers Edition
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed September 1, 2019 (edited September 21, 2022)Scotland, 25 September 2017. Distillery tasting, probably of the 2017 release. Nose: An old musty cereal aroma, reminiscent of a haybarn with a leaky roof. Slightly honeyed and sherried, but primarily a malty nose with grassy overtones. There's quite a distinct grapey top-note that becomes more defined as the whisky rests and develops in the glass. Adding water cripples the nose immediately. [The dry-glass aroma is honey]. Palate: A brisk and almost sour arrival. Cereal and bittersweet malt with hot tannins, hot cinnamon and walnut oil. The texture is oily but astringent. The palate seemed shallow and one dimensional. Finish: Medium. Sour cereal and oak tannin. The aftertaste is strong overbrewed English breakfast tea with a spoon of white sugar. The nose gained interest over time but the palate never became more than awkwardly curious - it seemed to me haphazard and unbalanced with more than just a touch of sulphur. Adding water did nothing to help - it just weakened the overall experience. Whisky is a very subjective thing, as we all know, and in my case I can find little to recommend about this dram - it's just not my sort of whisky. Given the not inconsiderable price it is not one that I'd ever consider buying. Re-tasted from a 30ml sample of the 1998/2015 release in 2019. Re-tasted from a 30ml sample of the 2003/2018 release in 2021. My rating stays the same as from the original. "Adequate" : 74/100 (2.25 stars)130.0 AUD per Bottle -
Blair Athol 12 Year Flora & Fauna
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed August 28, 2019 (edited August 31, 2019)Nose: Plum pudding, clootie dumpling, Christmas cake - anything with big cereal, fruity and sherried qualities. There's also malt extract, cigarette tobacco, leather and buckets of orange zest (it's a dark preserved orange aroma - not like fresh orange juice). As it develops, the nose acquires notes of black Chinese tea (Pu-erh or Keemun - it's not as smoky as lapsang souchong), a fermented hay note, and way in the back the scent of oak cask. It's a big, full nose. Palate: Rich, creamy full-flavoured arrival. Spiced teacake, malt, dark earthy fruits. There's a strong sherry note present but it's dry rather than sweet - more amontillado or fino than oloroso, and certainly not PX). There's a smoky touch to the palate but it's not peat - ah! it's that Chinese tea again! This morphs into a cup of strong espresso with a twist of bitter orange peel, bittersweet dark chocolate, and walnuts on the side. Finish: Medium. Malty with a lingering bittersweet and dry aftertaste. The dryness of a dry sherry. A whisky that brings Glenfarclas somewhat to mind but it's drier, and there is less complexity but more density of flavour - I can only wonder what this would be like unchillfiltered, uncoloured and at 46% (probably wonderful). There is a notable heaviness to the texture, even at the comparatively low proof, and it is a satisfying dram. Don't add any water, it's not required. This is the backbone malt in Bells blended scotch, which I happen to like, so that probably accounts for my affinity to it. In many ways Blair Athol 12 is like Bells "perfected" and without a grain element. It's a good whisky, and if it was about 25% cheaper it would find a permanent place in my cabinet, however as it stands it does not quite rate 4 stars. Tasted from a 30ml sample. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)130.0 AUD per Bottle -
Glencadam 21 Year
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed August 27, 2019 (edited February 10, 2021)Nose: Initially the nose is generic tropical fruits and honey, however this is misleading and with time it transmutes into a much more complex and complete experience. First an aroma becomes apparent of pineapple chunks sautéed in orange juice, lemongrass and bouquet garni. Then a more grassy and hay-like note arises and a flinty, mineral-laden zephyr gusts on the horizon. An exquisitely refreshing nose. Palate: Just as singular as the nose, the palate opens with a spicy-sweet and briskly oaked presence which in turn gives way to wavelets of sweet malt that rise above a vegetal foundation. The development brings forth semi-sweet orange concentrate, fenugreek, allspice, licorice and a little ginger. The texture is neutral at first, turning slightly oily in the finish. Finish: Medium/long. Malty, earthy, herbal and fruity. The aftertaste is suddenly milk chocolate! When first poured this whisky is a little difficult and unfriendly. It needs to rest for at least 15 minutes or more before it begins to open but once that starts to happen the profile becomes much easier and more inviting. At its heart there is a vegetal, earthy and herbal quality but this is balanced by the lightest touch of sweet fruit, floral fragrance and malt. Not that these notes are obvious - they act only as counterpoints to the main theme. It's a malt that unfolds in layers and continues to develop over time as the components interact. The addition of water initially kills the nose and palate but give it a few minutes and the whisky revives beautifully. The reward is greater complexity and more cohesion. It's excellent taken either neat or watered and I'd suggest pouring two drams and adding a few drops of water to one of them - then you can enjoy a delightful evening of comparative tasting. This is a complex and refined whisky that deserves to be tasted at leisure and in sympathetic surroundings. It is presented at only 46% but has the profile and character of a cask strength expression. "Excellent" : 88/100 (4.5 stars)220.0 AUD per Bottle -
Glencadam 15 Year
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed August 27, 2019 (edited December 6, 2022)Nose: Soft, fruity and floral cereal aromas. Waxy honey, apple blossoms, red berries and lots of freshly scraped vanilla pod and caramel toffee. As the nose develops over time in the glass the vanilla and caramel push to the front. Palate: Soft and creamy arrival with a deluge of honey, sweet malt and vanilla. The development melds these elements into the most delightful butterscotch flavour and also uncovers fruity tones (apple, pear). There's a flavour component rather like sweet ale (or fermenting wash) but it's not sour or yeasty - just very clean, dulcet and friendly. The texture is rich but crisp and chewy. Finish: Medium. The lingering aftertaste is of malt and red apple skins, and there's a slight dry edge. When first poured this whisky is all fruit, honey and cereal but over time the sweeter vanilla and caramel tones become dominant. This could lead to it becoming cloying but it is saved by some subtle oak that lies at the foundation and contributes a spicy balance. There is also a hint of maritime salt to both nose and palate, but it is very understated, and there is real progression here. It's a while since I last tasted Glencadam and now I'm wondering why I waited so long. A very pleasing dram that is eminently approachable whilst also having elegance and depth. The profile is so clean you can almost taste freshly ground barley on the tongue but it's not raw. Tasted from a 30ml sample. "Very Good" : 87/100 (4.25 stars)180.0 AUD per Bottle
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