Tastes

Nose: It's a bright, clear day on Islay. Brillant blue skies, warm sunshine and a bracing onshore breeze lift the senses as you take a morning stroll on the foreshore at Bunnahabhain Bay. Sunlight sparkles off the water and you suddenly smell the aroma of a beach bonfire - dried kelp burning on the sand, carried to you on occasional gusts of wind. Upwind, someone opens a container of freshly shucked oysters and squeezes lemon over them, and on the hills to the west someone starts a diesel engine and fires up a Toscano cigar. Palate: Delicate sweet-brine on the entry with developing peppery smoke and a delightful oily texture. As it unfolds, the peat-smoke builds and expands, gaining a warm and comforting tarry quality and a phenolic presence. Creosote, lemon, Seville orange, rhubarb, sage and brine build alongside the smoke. Finish: Medium/long. Initially herbal, smoky and citric, but the late finish and aftertaste bring a most unexpected chocolate-malt note, which is delightful. The initial nose is refreshing and crisp, and continues to open and develop as it rests. After a while, sweeter fruity aromas become apparent and these are in turn followed by more lemon, some soy sauce and just a little discreet oak. It's a marvellous nose, and classic Islay all the way. The palate is just a half point less impressive than the nose but that does not mean it disappoints, as it has a rich and satisfying character. Don't add water, this is just perfect neat. An (unfortunately) rare example of a good value TRE bottling. At retail prices, when it's available, this costs about AUD$160, but when I purchased it at Sydney airport a while back it was AUD$115 for a 1 litre bottle, and at that price I'd certainly recommend it. It's very different in profile to the Lagavulin 16 I tasted yesterday, but easily its equal. I've tasted several of the peated Bunnahabhain expressions and this one is far and away my favourite. "Very Good" : 85/100 (4 stars)

Nose: Warm, rounded phenolic peat-reek, oiled-leather, lapsang-souchong tea, sherry, moist rich earth, coal fires, wood fires, camphorated oil and brine. [The dry-glass aroma is pure cold peat-kiln]. Palate: A large, sweet, rich and enveloping peat-smoke arrival. Tar, camphor, lapsang-souchong tea, seaweed, smoked kippers, brine. The palate is creamy and full, but very slightly watery. Finish: Medium/long and warming to the soul. Phenolic resins, sweet licorice and a touch of seaweed in the lingering aftertaste. This bottle was from batch L8324CM014 (and so bottled on the 20th November 2018) and there has been a subtle change in profile and an interesting partial return to form after some lacklustre batches over the last few years. The smoked-tea note, which was once quite prominent on both nose and palate, has seemed rather thin for a while but it has now revived a little. The balance has also improved but the palate still lacks the powerful, almost asphalt-like tarry quality that it once possessed. There also used to be a pungent and sharp lemon oil note that is now conspicuously lacking. This whisky was once a fearsome iron fist in a velvet glove, but nowadays its punch does not quite deliver a knockout blow. There also seems to be a more obvious, and increasing, sherry presence in this whisky and I can't help but feel that on the whole it is now an easier dram than it once was (which is not necessarily a good thing) and it does seem just a soupçon too sweet. For me, the real essence of Lagavulin, its heart and soul, are currently found in purest form in the 8 and 12 year old expressions, and some of the Feis Ile special bottlings. Regardless, it's still a lovely whisky - arguably the most elegant and suave of the iconic core-expression Islay smokies - and it's an essential tasting at least once for every serious single-malt enthusiast. I've bought a bottle for my birthday every year since 1994 but almost didn't this year - however I relented at the last moment. You can't ignore an anniversary, especially when it's been observed for more than a quarter-century and has become a tradition. "Very Good" : 86/100 (4 stars) ------------------------------------------------- [Review from December 28, 2016] At one time this was, for me, THE whisky. I fell in love with it 30 years ago and there was a bottle in the house almost constantly up until a year or two ago. When it was first released around 1990, and up until the first few years of this century, it had a deep, full character and an almost aggressive profile. The characteristic smokiness used to be rich and powerful with a tarry note like asphalt or creosote and a definite aroma of strong lapsang souchong tea. It was the perfect meld of peat-reek, medium-dry sherry, maritime notes, ash and gentle spice, and it was not too sweet. However starting around 2004-2006 I noticed a gradual softening of the profile. All the familiar characteristics were still there but slowly the sweetness was turned up while the forceful smoke and asphalt was turned down. It was a re-balance rather than a radical change of profile but it robbed the whisky of presence. The whisky continued to change in this direction for about a 10 years until by 2014-2016 it was clearly different to the original releases. Nowadays it is much sweeter and the heft of the original Lagavulin 16 has been lost. It is still a good whisky and worthy of 4 stars, but it used to rate 5 stars without question. “Very Good” : 86/100 (4 stars) [AUD$120.0 per Bottle in 2016]

Nose: Dominant apricot and peach aromas supported by honey, barley sugar, red grape juice, malt extract and sandalwood. There is the fragrance of violets that becomes more noticeable over time and an occasional whiff of something vaguely like smoke (but it's most likely barrel char). [The dried-glass aroma is heavy caramelized white sugar]. Palate: The arrival is soft, very relaxed and inviting. Sweet malty and dried fruit flavours (particularly muscatel grapes and sultanas), caramel and milk chocolate on the development. There's also a jammy flavour a bit like fruity jelly beans! The texture is creamy and satisfying and the profile is both sweet and mildly tannic. Finish: Medium/short. A sweet dried fruit and grape aftertaste with a hint of sandalwood and oak tannin. Royal Lochnagar used to release the Distiller's Edition at regular intervals, always with a period of finishing in ex-muscat casks, and they were remarkably consistent. However after the 2000/2012 batch it disappeared entirely with no explanation forthcoming from Diagio. Were they no longer able to source the required casks? Who knows. This tasting is from a bottle from batch RL/98-10U, casked in 1998 and bottled in 2011, which was the second-last batch. It's a sweet, soft and well rounded whisky that is eminently approachable but not simplistic. It's also excellent as an after-dinner dessert dram, and pairs particularly well with dried fruits and soft cheese. There is a resemblance to Balvenie 12 Doublewood, but this whisky is sweeter and more floral in character. At one time it was my preferred dram to offer novices. When first poured, the whisky expresses a pungent leather and malty character but this quickly dissipates and it becomes increasingly sweet and soft over time. The finishing was handled adroitly and does not dominate the profile. At heart this is a dry, almost waxy, east-highland style of whisky but the presence of the fortified wine here contributes a finely-calculated balancing sweetness. Do not add water - it is completely unnecessary. "Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Nose: Pungently malty and aromatically oaky. Fine old leather bookbinding, oatmeal cookies fresh from the oven, orange oil, toffee and nuts. As it opens the nose becomes richer but also spicier, so it all stays very well balanced. With water some light honey and floral tones appear. Palate: A sweet cereal/malt arrival with some peppery spices and dark chocolate. Becoming even maltier in the development with raisins, dates, figs, treacle and a little vanilla appearing. The texture is oily, hearty and mouth-coating with lots of subtle oaky spice notes. Finish: Medium/long. Warming and sweetly cereal, subtle and chewy. A classic dry Speyside sherry nose - not an obvious big fruity sherry-bomb, but one where the tannins speak loud so the sherry asserts an oaky influence but does not impede the core malty cereal character. Mmm - I love this sort of profile. The palate is rich and dry at heart but with an enfolding cloak of semi-sweet, leathery sherry. A dash of water (not too much!) softens the palate wonderfully, adding just a touch of sweetness to balance the inherently dry character, however it does not change the profile much at all - the only downside is a hint of bitterness that creeps into the late palate. What a nice dram - really good, in fact. It's a characterful, textbook old-school malt and although the distillery is in the northern Speyside area this whisky reminds me of some iconic west-coast whiskies (Ben Nevis, Oban - even Hazelburn). Like others in the Distillery Labels series this is one of Gordon & MacPhail's contract bottlings. It is released frequently and is quite consistent in character. Highly recommended - I tasted this from a 30ml sampler and have just ordered a bottle. NOTE: The old green container version has been phased out but despite rumours this whisky has not been discontinued - just repackaged. "Very Good" : 87/100 (4.25 stars)

Nose: Toffee, cappuccino, caramel, milk chocolate, leather, intensely berry-flavoured gummy sweets, stewed prunes, a little oak. Palate: Sweet arrival with red fruits that turns quickly dry - almost astringent - highlighting citrus fruit and hot spices. The development expands on this opening spice note with a burst of spicy, tannic heat (hot cinnamon, nutmeg, clove oil, black pepper). Then a sharply-defined second wave of development arrives with mild wood flavours, brown sugar, lots of berries, red fruits and nuts. The texture is full and heavy. Finish: Medium/short, and it stops very abruptly. An oaky stewed-fruit compote on the aftertaste. A curious whisky. Not unpleasant at all but - different. The structure seems somehow strange and there is a touch of sulphur which intrudes just a little on both the nose and palate. It's not a sherry-bomb and there's not a trace of smoke. If I had to give it a name I'd call it a "jammy leather bomb", if that makes sense. With water - well, just don't do it. Even a few drops kills it stone cold dead. No nose, barely any palate. It's incredibly fragile. This was tasted from a sample that I've had for a while, which was poured from one of the early 41% bottlings around 6 years ago when a friend bought a bottle. The sample was overfilled so there was no air bubble and the cap was as tight as a drum so I'm guessing it lasted well. It's certainly an interesting whisky but I feel no desire to find a bottle - however I would like to try a sample of a more recent bottling, particularly the CS tawny port expression. The price I've quoted for it was the price in 2013. "Above Average" : 81/100 (3 stars)

Nose: Cereal, orchard fruit, citrus fruit, caramel, a hint of vanilla, some sherry cask aromas and maybe a little honey. There's a tiny hint of ash. It reminds me of the nose on a blended scotch but without the grain whisky element. Palate: Cereal in the arrival, with supporting flavours of oak and fruit. A sherry/malty note comes forward in the development, which swaps between sweet and slightly bitter/sour. The texture is a bit watery. Again, it's rather like a blend, but now the grain whisky is present as well. Finish: Short. The bitter/sour note is the only aftertaste. The nose is pleasant enough - it's delicate and after resting for a while it builds some nice light honey/malt fragrances, but it lacks engagement. There is nothing specifically bad about it, but there's a fine line between elegantly simple and bland, and this sits just to the bland side. The palate actually goes downhill over time, with the bitter/sour note becoming quite prominent. Overall this whisky seemed to lack energy - it's the very definition of "beige" whisky - there's nothing to offend, but why would you bother at all? It reminded me of some of the workhorse whiskies in the Diagio "Flora & Fauna" range that are really only meant to be in blends, and frankly it is very like a lightweight blend itself. Maybe it's just the thing as a last-minute duty-free present for someone who usually only drinks blended scotch, but it's poor value for money. Tasted from a 30ml sample. The reviews below by @LeeEvolved and @washeewashee are right on the money. "Average" : 78/100 (2.75 stars)

Nose: A big, old oloroso sherry note, nutty oak aromas and dark cocoa dominate the initial nose. Next, dark fruits (figs, dates, plums), raisins, pineapple chunks and oranges emerge, simmering in a broth of resinous honey, brown sugar and sweet malt extract spiced with ginger, cinnamon, cloves and buttery vanilla that comes in waves. A heavy, dusky floral note emerges later and there is a whiff of leathery smoke and black coffee on the dry glass. Palate: A wonderful arrival, creamy and soft to start with and highlighting sweet honey, sugars, mint and baking spices (allspice, caraway) with a touch of white pepper. Oak and dark chocolate appear quickly afterward along with figs and roasted nuts as the palate turns momentarily tannic and dry. However this is followed in turn by a wave of sweeter tones featuring citrus fruit, ginger, cherries, raspberries and a return of the oloroso sherry. The fruity tones are not like the heavy stewed fruits found in the palate of the 25 or 30 year old expressions, but a combination of dark dried and fresh fruits - like a platter of oranges, dark cherries and dried muscatel grapes. The texture is oily, but drying, with a rancio quality and a hint of walnut oil. Finish: Medium/long. Dark fruits and sherry fade to an aftertaste of sweet spicy ginger, white pepper, oaky tannins and espresso. A wonderful old malt that exemplifies the Glenfarclas profile, from its lustrous mahogany colour (unsullied by the taint of artificial colouring) to its lingering sweet/dry oaky finish. I chose this for my 500th review on Distiller as it is an iconic malt that I have never previously tasted, but which is available widely at a comparatively very reasonable price. The whisky was tasted as the finale of a flight of Glenfarclas expressions, comprising the 10, 12, 17, 25 and 40 year olds that I shared with two whisky mates who dropped over for an afternoon of cards and drams a few weekends ago. The only criticism we had of the 40, and we all felt this, was that the finish was a touch short. However this was only apparent as it was tasted following the 25 year old, which has remarkable length. In comparison to almost anything else the finish on this 40 year old would seem very good. All Glenfarclas whiskies require time in the glass before they reveal themselves fully but nowhere is this more so than with this magisterial old malt. I poured the drams and left them to stand covered, and as this whisky was tasted at the end of the flight it had about an hour or more to compose itself. Even so, when its time came the whisky was still just barely beginning to open. The weather was cold and drizzling (it's winter here in Australia right now) so we nursed the glasses in our hands to gently warm then while we sat at the dining table, chatting about all things whisky and occasionally pausing to listen to the rain in companionable silence as we sniffed our drams. After about 20 minutes we noticed the spirit starting to reveal itself, and then spent another half hour dissecting and discussing the whisky's merits, and enjoying its warm glow. A stately, refined and dignified whisky that was a special delight to taste, the pleasure which it provided being eclipsed only by the comradeship of my good friends Warwick and Anthony (KT66 here on Distiller) in whose estimable company I was privileged to enjoy it. "Excellent" : 89/100 (4.75 stars)