Tastes

Nose: Malt and honey, a touch of sherry and dried fruit, mild baking spices (nutmeg, caraway), a hint of orange, some vanilla and a tinge of oak. No obvious grain smell at all. The nose is a little shy and light, but it's really nice. Palate: Soft, smooth, velvety arrival. Nutty and malty milk chocolate, some light toffee, pannacotta. A delightful creamy texture. It's not a complex palate, but what is there is good. Finish: Short. The vanilla and chocolate notes stick around for a while before dissolving into a light honeyed finish. No sign whatsoever of sourness or metallic bitterness. I picked this up today at a local liquor store on a whim. I didn't know that Grant's made a 12 year old blend, and subsequent research has found that it is now discontinued. It's a pity because this could otherwise become a favourite affordable blended scotch. I've already decided to reserve this for sipping when I feel like something comforting and easy. Very nicely balanced, it's a soft and gently honeyed whisky that is frighteningly easy to drink. It reminds me of Grand Old Parr, Haig Gold and Dewar's 15 year - yes, it's another old-time blend that grandpa would have loved. There is no bite whatsoever on this - it is the model of an easy drinking spirit. It bears no resemblance whatsoever to either standard Grant's or Grant's Family Reserve, being light years ahead of either of those. The bottle has one of those plastic pouring gizmos that you find on many TRE spirit bottles so I'm guessing that it was normally only available duty free in Australia but some made its way into our retail system. It was the only bottle in the shop today, unfortunately. If they'd had more I'd go back and buy the rest. Apparently this contains 15-20 malt and grain whiskies in a 50:50 malt-to-grain ratio, and features Balvanie, Glenfiddich and Kinivie malts. The individual components are matured for 12 years before being married in first-fill bourbon casks for another 6 months. This final finishing is what imparts the velvety texture. I have a feeling that this is/was only available in Europe, Australasia and South America. If you do happen upon a bottle I'd recommend giving it a try - it's surprisingly good for a Grant's blended scotch and I'm rating it at the top of the "Average" band. "Average" : 79/100 (2.75 stars)

Laphroaig tasting evening, Sydney, 26 September 18. Whiskey #5. Nose: The immediate aroma is floral and fragrant, a honeyed vanilla and musk scent. A full and commanding ashy-smoke note arrives hot on its heels, and you’ve barely registered this before a zephyr of sea breeze blows in, brisk with seaweed, salt, and the smell of a sun-bleached fishing-pier. The nose continues to unfold in layers as the sweet fragrance returns in the guise of orange chocolate and almond fudge. A tiny touch of clove is noticeable behind this, and then the smoke gains prominence again, this time as a peaty plasticine aroma. Palate: A full and intense arrival with billows of smoke and briny iodine. Some spicy pepper or chilli, star anise, honey and vanilla appear quickly as it develops. The texture is oily but balanced by the briny tang. There is a shift in focus as you move from nosing to tasting with the smoky character continuing to bloom and dominate the profile while the wine influence becomes less noticeable. Eventually strong tarry phenols are completely in command. Finish: Medium/long. Drying and smoky from the palate at first, then fading out into sweet iodine-tinged citrus and caramel. The initial fragrant waft on the nose suggests that there are some very fresh PX sherry casks in this whisky’s background (and maybe even a sneaky red wine barrel). However it’s the assured smoky character that really defines Lore, with the soft fruity-floral tones and briny maritime notes being there to create a counterpoint. Lore is a melding of many classic Laphroaig elements, both in the nose and palate, and it backs up this mosaic of tone and hue with depth. It’s an interesting whisky that continues to unfold over time and rewards patient tasting. It has great balance, but of a distinctive kind. Some whiskies have manifold aromas and flavours that are integrated and evenly spread. Lore, however, is like a set of scales with one pan holding lots of fruity, briny and fragrant ingredients while the other is loaded with pure peat-reek – but the two sides are in equilibrium. It has a very complete and satisfying feel about it that is the direct result of this balanced tension between the dominant smoke and all the other components. Don’t bother adding water, this is just fine neat. “Very Good” : 86/100 (4 stars)

Laphroaig tasting evening, Sydney, 26 September 2018. Whiskey #6. Nose: Rose and honey. Raisins simmered in port and brandy - a hefty and full aroma. Strong port wine, almost like port wine jelly. The smoke takes a back seat, but it’s there all right, as is a hint of the trademark Laphroaig iodine, but it’s occluded. There is a deep musky note tinged with oak sitting behind everything. Palate: Velvety smooth arrival. Raisins and smoke in abundance, strawberry compote, blackberry jam, orange syrup, rancio. A rather thick texture, but not oily. It’s flavourful but on the braggadocio side and heavy-handed. Finish: Medium. The smoke persists in the finish. It’s a boldly sweet nose and the port finish obscures the smoke at first. Peat-reek is present, however, as a powerful foundation and once it starts to unfold it keeps on coming. Unlike many smoky whiskies there is no trace of a plastic-peat note on this at all. On the first tasting I found this whisky agreeably sweet, friendly and easy to drink but with each successive nose and sip it became a little less engaging. Something about the profile didn't appeal to me and eventually I realized that I was not sensing any distillery character at all in this whisky. The heavy port finish blankets everything and the Laphroaig heritage is nowhere to be seen - this could be a smoky distillate from any distillery. There was a port-finished Cairdeas a few yeas ago that was exceptional – sprightly, balanced and complex. This comes across as a less competent version of that. It is well made but I can’t imagine ever buying a bottle, particularly given the price. “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)

Laphroaig tasting evening, Sydney, 26 September 18. Whiskey #4. Nose: The smell of a bowl of fruit salad, enjoyed in a fragrant garden by the sea, with the faintest wisp of smoke occasionally wafted by a salt breeze from a fire on the beach. Beautifully aromatic, enveloping but delicate - sensual but almost diaphanously floral. At times the fruity aroma rises in intensity to be like the smell of a bag of boiled fruit sweets, but only for an instant before being dispelled by the gentle aromatic smoke. Palate: A sweet, subtle and refined arrival of slightly oily tropical fruit juice (orange, mandarin, pineapple, melon, guava and banana). The waft of smoke from the nose gains in intensity and unfolds into a complex succession of smoky flavours as it develops - peat smoke, cigar ash, wood-fire cinders and ever so slightly over-toasted raisin bread. Concomitant warm and savoury spicy flavours (notably cardamom and cumin) emerge carrying notes of Greek coffee and old, well-tamed oak tannins. Finish: Medium/long. The sweetness of the arrival very gradually turns to a dry leathery tobacco with a touch of oak. Sublime. Simply sublime. I love old peated whisky, particularly Laphroaig, and I take the opportunity to attend any tasting where such an expression will be featured. The character is so different from younger Laphroaig bottlings (which are enjoyable in their own way, of course). If you're looking for a smoky blast then stay with Laphroaig of 15 years or less, or any of the NAS expressions, as with age this distillate becomes something quite different (as is the case with all smoky whiskies). From 15 years onwards, it starts to change character significantly so by the time you arrive at this 27 year old the signature smoke has become a subtle background that permeates the other facets of the whisky, leaving the fruity and gentle spicy notes to take centre stage. Give this time to breathe after pouring. Don't even think of tasting it before it's had at least 20 minutes in the glass - you will only be cheating yourself of a wonderful experience and wasting the whisky. Hurrying this malt is a mortal sin. Don't add any water either - enjoy this neat in all its glory. "Outstanding" : 91/100 (5 stars)

Laphroaig tasting evening, Sydney, 26 September 18. Whiskey #3. Nose: An amplification of the nose on the 10 year old expression with added aromatic sawdust aromas and a hint of oily plastic and citrus zest. Woody and nutty aromas (walnuts, Brazil nuts) also appear after a while. Adding water broadens and softens the nose. [The dry glass aromas of the 10 year old and Quarter Cask are virtually identical]. Palate: A very smooth and quite sweet arrival with a more resinous quality than the 10 year old, but the profile is otherwise similar. A touch of smoke but there is cigarette ash and hot soot as well. Water unlocks more wood flavours and brings out a gingery/chilli salt note. There's also an agreeably crisp, dry briny citrus nature to this palate. Finish: Long. Sweet, smoky wood resin, very dry and slightly salty. Quarter Cask is a vatting of 5-11 year old Laphroaig distillate aged entirely in ex-bourbon casks, including a final 9 months in small "quarter" casks, also made from refashioned ex-bourbon casks. I’ve had several bottles of this over the last few years and it is batch-variable. There is a tendency for the quarter casks to take over and it needs the presence of fresh, grippy, and almost sour citrus notes from the distillate to balance the resinous wood of the finishing casks, particularly on the palate. It's a good whisky but it lacks the maturity of 10 year old, however it makes up for this with a more intense and vibrant personality. The two expressions are different sides of the same coin and I'm giving this one the same rating I gave the 10 year old. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Nose: Dried fruits, ginger, orange concentrate, fragrant wood (cedar, sandalwood) and distant floral supporting aromas. An elegant oak background edged with the faintest oily-smoke, vanilla and hazelnut chocolate. Palate: A sweet but sophisticated oak and cereal arrival, with just a little sparkling spice around the edges. Almost instantly it starts to develop sweetness of many dimensions - malty, cereal, vanilla and caramel. The texture has a most enjoyable oiliness in the arrival, but then turns dry and slightly austere in the finish with hints of oak. The palate seems to expand and fill the senses. There is also a light and complex spicy note of cloves and cinnamon. Finish: Medium. The development seamlessly segues into the finish, which echoes away on waves of delicate spicy sweetness. The nose is like a friendly and fruity young Springbank, and the palate like a malty highlander, but it is sweeter than either and somewhat reminiscent of a gently spicy bourbon. A good whisky, and one of those rare ones that is both a "whisky-drinker's whisky" but still approachable for a novice. Well recommended and I agree completely with the official distiller summary, but I wouldn't rate it quite as high. It's also fair value, even though the bottle is only 500ml. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Nose: A strangely sour fruit note, almost mezcal-like or maybe even akin to retsina. Cereal and a little vanilla, but quirky. Green tea and parsley. White grapes (or is that the power of suggestion?) Palate: A sweet/astringent arrival that becomes sweeter as it develops. Bright and hard citrus at the start (kumquat?) but relaxing into sweeter lime flavours as it unfolds, then green melon and fruits (but they are all young and just barely ripe fruits). Finish: Short. Crisp and mildly bitter/sour citrus and cereal flavours gradually fading out sweet. This is a whisky that needs to rest in the glass for a while with a dash of water before tasting. When freshly poured it is full of grassy and odd citrus flavours, but as it develops you do clearly detect the chardonnay cask on both nose and palate. A dash of water makes it more agreeable by bringing out some cereal sweetness but overall I didn't think much of it. It's the sort of thing you could become accustomed to if it was all you had on a desert island, but not much more. The price is reasonable but be aware that it's not a typical profile, and an acquired taste. Also note that a few years ago there was a 10 year old Glen Moray single malt that was matured entirely in chardonnay casks and not just finished in them. It was far superior to this expression but is now discontinued. Don't confuse the two. "Average" : 77/100 (2.5 stars)

Nose: A soft fruity nose with mild lemon/lime, red apple and gentle vanilla floral aromas. There's also some yeasty and nutty hints and a suggestion of IPA. Warm and approachable, but don't nose too deeply because there's a metallic note lurking in the depths ready to attack. Palate: A creamy arrival of bittersweet barley, dried fruit and brown sugar-water. The development starts to turn a little sour and verges towards the metallic. You sense the IPA note more on the palate than the nose. Finish: Short. A slightly hard malty and fruit note that fades quickly leaving a faint sour hoppy tang. I don't get a particularly strong IPA note to the nose of this, but there is that elusive aroma of elderflowers is certainly there. In the mid-palate and right at the end of the finish as everything else is fading away are when you most taste the hops. Like its stablemate the Stout Cask finish, this is essentially Jameson's standard turned up by one notch, but with a slightly different finishing profile. This one is floral and hoppy whereas the stout cask is dark fruity/chocolate and cream, but the profile is stronger and more defined in this whisky. It's pleasant and if the ordinary Jameson's was more like either of these caskmates editions I wouldn't be displeased. Nothing much to write home about really, but perfectly drinkable and worth a try, and worth buying a bottle if you can find it on special. Oh yes, this is also a better mixer than the stout cask edition. "Above Average" : 80/100 (3 stars)

Laphroaig tasting evening, Sydney, 26 September 18. Whisky #2. Nose: Iodine, charcoal, a muted smokiness, chalk, band-aids and plasticine. Dusky floral aromas and malt with seaweed and brine. An earthy, woody quality. Palate: The arrival is sweet and smoky, then it turns salty with light licorice and white pepper notes. Tarry and peaty flavours emerge with a hint of smoked herring. The palate definitely feels softer and a bit sweeter than it used to, but it is still as oily and textured as ever. Finish: Medium/long. A slightly salty note fades into a mist of light smoke. It's a while since I last reviewed this whisky so the tasting evening last Wednesday was a good excuse to revisit it. The nose is surprisingly subtle after the rather brash Select expression that was first in the lineup (everything is up-front and loud in that whisky but also but strangely abbreviated). The trademark licorice on the palate is sweeter here than it used to be and overall the whisky seems more laid back. The iodine note is certainly much less prominent and the old hospital antiseptic aroma is considerably softened. This may all seem negative, but I don't mind the modern balance of Laphroiag 10. It is less forceful than it was a couple of decades ago and it seems to veer a little to much towards being tame and safe. Still, it's a good expression and a must-try for anyone interested in Islay whisky. If you've never tasted Laphroaig 10 then you're missing an important part of the jigsaw. I do think the official Distiller rating for this is way too high. Once it was worth that much and was a 5-star whisky, but not for a long time now. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars) ------------------------------------------------------ Original Distiller review November 9, 2017 Nose: Iodine, antiseptic, charcoal, smoked fish - but not a great deal of smoke. It's there, but softer and more muted than I remember from the past. I must have drunk many litres of this stuff over the years, but I can't remember it ever smelling so tame. Everything is there, more or less, but it feels turned down (or watered down). Palate: Initally sweet, then developing a smoky, slightly tarry, peaty character along with some bright peppery notes. More smoked fish (oily fish, herring and mackerel). The palate moves seamlessly into a dryer form as it develops, but hints of the sweetness keep returning. Classy. There is less oak tannin than I remember - in fact surprisingly little cask influence - and where is the strong oily character of old? There is some lemon zest and salt, but it's not a breezy fresh outdoor maritime salt - more mineral. I'm sure that overall the palate is rounder and sweeter than it used to be. Finish: Medium-long, a slight salty prickle as all the foregoing flavours and aromas slowly fade into a mist of peat, light smoke and salt. The trademark liquorice in the finish is no longer "zoute drop" - much milder now and more like sweet liquorice. Either this whisky has changed, or I have. Maybe both? It certainly seems to have less character and be more laid back. The iodine is less sharply defined and the old hospital antiseptic aroma is considerably softened. One thing it does have is great balance, and it's still a satisfying dram - however after the Kilchoman Loch Gorm I had last night this is ... safe. Oh dear. I wonder if it is all down to the alcohol strength? "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars) [AUD$90 in 2017] ------------------------------------------------------