Tastes
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Compass Box Spice Tree Extravaganza
Blended Malt — Scotland
Reviewed February 5, 2020 (edited December 2, 2021)The biggest problem is the name. This is not Spice Tree. This is not related to Spice Tree. Spice Tree is a great affordable blend that is very spicy. This blend is obviously older and more luxurious than Spice Tree, but it’s not necessarily better. It’s like if Spice Tree was a $3 taco at the standing-room-only, hole-in-the-wall taco spot that always has a line up because it’s that good; Spice Tree Extravaganza might be that “taco” at the fancy restaurant with a tasting menu that brings out their “re-imagined” deconstructed taco that has caviar and a gold leaf with some green sauce on the side. And you’re just like, “That ain’t no fucking taco.” They should have called this Fruit Tree. I might have given this a star if it just changed the name. It’s not a bad whisky. It wants to go down the fruity direction, but it’s half-hearted. About 50% of this blend is Glen Ord and Benrinnes matured in first fill sherry casks. You get feathery soft notes of red fruits, figs, and dates. A honeycomb and wax Clynelish style stands out more than anything, and there is some Clynelish in here. In terms of spices, there’s some vanilla, nutmeg, and clove; but it’s hardly a spice extravaganza. This blend tastes like it should be expensive, but it really does not stand out. The name and the packaging are definitely misleading. Score: 0 (forgettable) How much does a bottle cost: $105-140 at retail. It’s getting hard to find and is starting to show up at higher secondary pricing. How much do I think a bottle is worth: $90110.0 USD per Bottle -
Glendronach single cask 1994 (cask 1376)
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed February 1, 2020 (edited September 10, 2021)$50 for one ounce at Jack Rose I had this side by side with a 25 year 1993 Glendronach that was matured in a nonspecific sherry butt. At the end, it was hard to say which one was better. The 1993 definitely evolved from a rather unpalatable whisky to a delicious dark sherry masterpiece with some water and time. This 1994 did not change much with water or time. It remained an indulgent bounty. I tried PX sherry in Spain. It’s like ice wine in Canada, in that if you look like a tourist and you order it, the bartender goes, “Are you sure? It’s really sweet.” And they are right to give you warnings, because both are nearly undrinkable. Yet, whiskies that spend a long time in PX sherry casks are always spectacular. The malt somehow perfectly complements the sweetness. Single malts exclusively aged in PX sherry casks are rare, but they are delicious. Beware of those that are finished in PX, however, as these tend to be poor quality and the PX is used to hide flaws. This whisky is a candied treat. Marmalade that would make Paddington rabid. Concord grape jam. Guava. Blackberries. Violets and roses. I almost want to spread this over bread with peanut butter. I am trying to remember a more enjoyable sherried whisky experience, and I can’t. Score: *** (I am not worthy) How much does a bottle cost: I don’t know. How much do I think a bottle is worth: $57550.0 USD per Pour -
Glendronach Single Cask 1993 (cask 658)
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed January 31, 2020 (edited May 5, 2020)$50 for one ounce at Jack Rose 1990s Glendronach is like 1980s Macallan; perhaps equal in quality, but definitely cheaper. Even at an arm and a leg, it is undervalued by an arm and a leg in today’s market. If you are sick of finishes in seasoned Pedro Sulfurfuck caks, and just need a sherry masterpiece that will only cost one arm and one leg, you buy a Glendronach 1990s vintage now. This one gets a star taken off for tasting like cough syrup on the first encounter. Bitter wood, cherries, and figs. Water and time is like saliva with this whisky. Things start digesting and the simple sugars are released from the polysacchar… fuck if I know the chemistry. It gets sweeter. It gets betterer. Macerated dark fruits, leather, tobacco. This is a sherried wet dream that I probably consumed too fast because it kept getting better and better, revealing ever richer details, up until the last sip. This definitely ended in three star territory, but I am giving it two because it comes out of the bottle like a bastard. I had this side by side with a 1994 Glendronach that was a 22 year old from a single PX sherry cask. Both bottles were freshly opened. That PX one, however, can curl toes from the first moment outside the bottle. Score: ** (unimaginably good) How much does a bottle cost: I don’t know. How much do I think a bottle is worth: $50050.0 USD per Pour -
Habitation Velier Forsyths WP single Jamaican rum 2005
Aged Rum — Jamaica, Jamaica
Reviewed January 31, 2020 (edited May 13, 2020)$24 for 1.5 ounces at Tail Up Goat This particular bottle may be difficult to obtain now, but craft presentation rums, in general, have impressed me. There is not a big collectors market, so these bottlings are for the connoisseurs, and you can be confident when you buy a cask strength rum with a good disclosure of information on the bottle, that the flavors inside will be bold, and the experience will be memorable. This is an oaky experience. The tree bark juice reminds me of Orphan Barrel Rhetoric. But the sugarcane-based distillate and the higher ABV complements the huge oakiness much better than in an “over-oaked” bourbon. Everything about this rum fits with its dark appearance. It is aggressive and smooth, like a Cajun suitor, with heavy, intoxicating toffee, tree sap, molasses, black pepper, paprika, and apple cider. This finishes with a drying oak, a sizzle of hot pepper, and a funky musky sweat. My caution is that this has a heart of deep molasses fighting with intense woodiness. It may be an overbearing experience, with the main flavor profile being a tug of war between sweet and bitter. The “WP” indicates this rum is from the Worthy Park Estate in Jamaica. There are younger aged rums from WP that are perhaps friendlier, and better for most occasions. This bottle says this rum was aged 10 years in the tropics with greater than 64% angel’s share. Compared to cask strength whiskies aged for long periods in the tropics selling for many hundreds of dollars from producers such as Amrut and Kavalan, this beast shows how rum is still very reasonably priced. Score: ** (unimaginably good) How much does a bottle cost: $75-120. Very hard to find. How much do I think a bottle is worth: $15024.0 USD per Pour -
Talisker 1985 Maritime Edition
Single Malt — Isle of Skye, Scotland
Reviewed January 30, 2020 (edited June 13, 2021)This was my favorite Talisker until I tried their 2005 bottling of a 25 year old at cask strength. I have bottle 0719 of 3000. The packaging is the packaging. I am confused why Diageo has decided to equate Talisker’s “Made by the Sea” slogan with boating. Whatever. I am not drinking this on a boat. I am not learning nautical signs. Tell me about the whisky inside. It’s cask strength at 56.1%. Most of it is aged in American oak refill hogsheads. The vintage is 1985. This was bottled in 2013. This package comes with a little book, and that’s all the relevant info we get about the actual liquid. Fortunately, the liquid is exquisite. This is very maritime indeed with lots of salt, fish, seaweed, and lime on the nose. On the palate, this is insanely spicy. Imagine sprinkling chili flakes on dark chocolate; or putting out your cigar in chili oil. There’s white pepper, fennel, eucalyptus, and still plenty of seaweed umami. Surprisingly, at 27 years, I still get malt and saltine crackers. The mouthfeel is silky and ethereal. Compared to the 2005 cask strength Talisker, this 2013 bottling is noticeably not as fruity or earthy. There is some peach and nectarine notes, but there is no bright burst of fruit that I got with the 2005. The finish is ashy and leathery. There is a tad soapiness, but in a fitting seawater kind of way. I got this bottle on sale at $525. At that price, I am satisfied. However, if the 25 year old 2005 bottling is offered at the same price as this 27 year old 2013 bottling, choose the former without hesitation. Score: *** (I am not worthy) How much does a bottle cost: $550-800 and still available How much do I think a bottle is worth: $550525.0 USD per Bottle -
Talisker 25 year old (2005 special release)
Single Malt — Skye, Scotland
Reviewed January 30, 2020 (edited June 12, 2022)$68 for one ounce at Jack Rose. This is the best Talisker I have ever tried. This is back when “Made by the sea” spoke for itself. Now, there’s videos of metrosexual sailors by Talisker on Instagram trying to remind me they are still “made by the sea.” This beast makes the modern day Taliskers more like “made by a puddle” in comparison. Even my treasured 27 year old 1985 Maritime Edition Talisker at 56.1% is minor leagues compared to this. Maturation for this whisky would have started in 1979-80. This does not fuck around. Older Taliskers these days get a pass for being soft. “It’s mellowed out,” we say. “It’s more refined,” we argue. This Talisker has the complexity and richness of 25 years of maturation, and it still lays a haymaker like a cresting Atlantic wave… with a shark inside. Mindblowing orchard fruits and citrus. Devastating spices with black pepper, fennel, cinnamon, and bay leaves. Dirty earthy notes of rope, fresh asphalt, and clay. It’s sweet, peppery, and earthy, all at the same time. There is so much going on that you almost miss the smoke and salinity in the background. This needs a little bit of dilution, if for nothing else but to turn the volume down a little. This was a heartbreaking dram in that I realize I have been blind to the degradation of what I thought was a decent distillery. Talisker was made by the sea. It was. Score: **** (My own piss after drinking this was on par with Talisker 10) How much does a bottle cost: I see 650 pounds and in stock at Whisky Exchange How much do I think a bottle is worth: $80068.0 USD per Pour -
Ardmore Traditional Cask
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed January 23, 2020 (edited May 28, 2021)Bottled 2008. Here’s a bottle from back when NAS bottlings had something to prove, and there were many examples that provided excellent value for money. That was during the time of the industry’s hook. We are now in the time of the line and sinker. Ardmore does not have a fan base of collectors, so the Traditional Cask can still be found gathering dust on a few shelves. Don’t confuse this with their current release, Ardmore Tradition, which is trash. This Ardmore is like a less maritime, fruitier Talisker 10. Fruity liquorice, honey, dark chocolate, and a unique smokiness that does not exist in today’s NAS releases. The smoke is haunting – soft and delicate, but mouthcoating with honey and barbequed meats. What I don’t like is the sulfur fire from the sherry casks they used. But, this is nonetheless a very good whisky for the price, and I am replacing this bottle if I can find it again. Score: * (unforgettably good) How much does a bottle cost: $35-60 (discontinued) How much do I think a bottle is worth: $6057.0 USD per Bottle -
Rock Oyster Blended Malt
Blended Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed January 23, 2020 (edited May 17, 2022)Bottled 2017. This is technically discontinued. The geniuses from marketing decided “Rock Oyster” is an unpalatable name for a whisky. Henceforth Rock Island. Shame. Rock Oyster was the perfect name for this whisky. I get rocks – a lovely minerality; an epiphany of brine and barnacles. I get oysters – sweet pacific oysters, a paradoxical enigma of creamy zinc metal. I also get a lot of maltiness and a clean smoke – not the black coal plant fumes that power Ardbeg; but the white nuclear plant steam that powers, perhaps, Arran? This is a young whisky. Most of this blend is probably somewhere in the 3-6 year range. This is memorable for how much damp sawdust, metal, and banana flavors that generally make me skeptical of young whiskies, but it works very well in Rock Oyster. Probably, there is a touch of older whisky for balance. Even more probably, I have fallen for the packaging, the theme, and the spine to name a whisky “Rock Oyster.” The only problem I have with this whisky is that I don’t feel like it all the time. When I am in the mood for something rich and indulgent, this is anathema. But when I am in the mood for something barren and battered to match the mood after the holidays, nothing quite satisfies like this pearl. Score: * (unforgettably good) How much does a bottle cost: $55-70 How much do I think a bottle is worth: $7565.0 USD per Bottle -
Old Pulteney 21 Year
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed January 16, 2020 (edited May 5, 2020)Bottled 2017. Time to have two old Old Pulteney’s, 17 and 21, side by side! To unambiguously declare the winner, OP 21 is a special whisky, and OP 17 is not. I commend the OP 17 for its balancing of spirit and cask character. The OP 21 is mostly cask, and it is spectacular. I’m guessing this whisky started its maturation in a bourbon cask, and then spent numerous years in a second maturation in sherry casks. This is bombastically fruity. You get deep notes of berries, citrus, cherries, bananas, kiwis. The malt character is in the background, and it says, “pie.” Berry pie, orange pie, cherry pie, banana pie, kiwi pie. There is a huge fruity and biscuity quality that compares favorably with Redbreast 21. The finish is again fruit pie, but also fairly woody and spicy. I am sad I only ever purchased one bottle of this, and I can no longer find it on shelves. Score: * (unforgettably good) How much does a bottle cost: Secondary market pricing is probably around $200-$300 right now. I don’t see these on shelves any more. How much do I think a bottle is worth: $200170.0 USD per Bottle -
Old Pulteney 17 Year
Single Malt — HIghlands, Scotland
Reviewed January 16, 2020 (edited June 9, 2020)Bottled 2015. Time to have two old Old Pulteney’s, 17 and 21, side by side! Some scotch aficionados regard the OP 17 as one of the finest whiskies of its time. For me, this is not nearly that special. It is, or was, very fairly priced, and that is enough to turn a scotch into a darling these days. This is just a solid single malt. If you don’t like this, then you don’t like scotch. This is one example of a whisky where the spirit and cask characters are in perfect balance. I think Arran 14 has taken over as that example, now that this is discontinued. The nose is butterscotch and vanilla, with just the right amount of salt and herbs. The palate is fruity and floral first, but the colors are understated, kept in check by the maltiness. There is no smoke at all. This is a scotch to showcase to newcomers that THIS is what is at the heart of the buzz around scotch; not a Macallan sherry bomb, or a Laphroaig peat stinker. Despite the praise, this is a forgettable scotch. I am SO spoiled for saying that! But I have found so many equals that are cheaper and/or younger that illustrate quintessential scotchiness and that perfect balance between cask and spirit. I already mentioned Arran 14; but there’s also the Mortlach 16 and the Craigellachie 13 as two other examples. This just means OP probably used relatively inactive senile casks for aging this 17 years, and could have had more vibrancy with a younger age and more active casks. The OP 21 is a completely different beast several classes above the 17. Score: 0 (forgettable) How much does a bottle cost: It’s been discontinued since 2017, but there’s still some on shelves in my area for $100-130 How much do I think a bottle is worth: $100105.0 USD per Bottle
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