Tastes

Strictly speaking, this underproof Invergordon is no whisky, but who cares when dram in the glass is fantastic? The aroma unfolds with Mon Chéri confectionery, antique furniture and marzipan, enriched by rosemary, marjoram and cocoa powder. What a great nose! Light as a feather and yet full of flavor, the palate continues with complex wood spices, coconut cream and a touch of menthol. Licorice, dark chocolate and baked banana linger in the aromatic finish. A sublime grain, 56 years of maturation have taken this impressive spirit to another level. RATING: 4.5/5.0 stars ≙ 91 pts → SUPERB

Sake is not matured in wood, so Eigashima Shuzo had to sacrifice the sake used to season the cask for this experiment. Engaging, fruity and not young at all, the nose reveals jasmine tea, brine and hints of earthy peat smoke. This is quite unique. On the palate, you get rice wine on steroids, driven by the high ABV. Shiitake mushrooms, miso soup and menthol appear, pushing the taste towards floral and herbal notes. The medium finish is fresh and vibrant, fading on licorice and green tea. I am almost tempted to say: Hey Kurayoshi, this is Japanese whisky! RATING: 3.9/5.0 stars ≙ 86 pts → FIRST-CLASS [-]

Innovation, courage and the forces of evil. We all love a good story, and Compass Box's clash with the SWA regarding Spice Tree and the use of inner staves is almost legendary. On the nose, a potpourri of herbal and spicy flavors is enriched by grapefruit, toffee and candle wax. The punchy and aromatic arrival is led by chili pepper, ginger and a good amount of oak. Sweet and sour notes creep in, followed by lemon zest, nutmeg and parsley. Walnuts, resin and distant vanilla mark the long and peppery-dry finish. Kudos to John Glaser for creating this malt! RATING: 4.0/5.0 stars ≙ 88 pts → FIRST-CLASS

I was reluctant to revisit Glenfiddich's Solera 15 because I sensed I would be disappointed. Did I change? Did the whisky change? Probably both. Gentle and delicate fruit notes dominate the nose, in particular canned peaches, kiwi and apples. Sourdough, allspice and a hint of sherry emerge. The spicy arrival is quickly spoiled by the thin mouthfeel, where subdued fruitiness, green tea and distant toffee are losing ground. Drying wood spices, walnuts and plums fade in the bittersweet finish. Not quite what it used to be, but that's the malt aficionado speaking. RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 83 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

Big age statement, low expectations. With artificial colorant and measly 40% ABV, the presentation of this Tomintoul illustrates that old habits die hard. That said, the nose opens up beautifully, showcasing persimmon, chamomile and a dash of pepper. After a sweet soda pop arrival, the palate is hit by an avalanche of spices, overshadowing sour fruits, coconut and floral notes. The oak keeps the upper hand into the dry and tannin-rich finish, giving away the impact of mediocre casks. I have mixed feelings, this whisky appears to be a bit beyond its peak. RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 83 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

Oh My God (part 2). Diageo's 2014 release of Caol Ila 30 is still my highest-rated whisky to date, so I was excited to taste its successor. The nose takes me back to the salt cellar, with layers of flavors unpacking like a Matryoshka doll. Guava, herbal teas and bonfire ash mingle with aniseed, old cigars and sour cream. Superb balance on the palate, where fruity, dry and spicy notes are interwoven with mineral peat smoke, peppermint and plums. Waves of brine, tobacco and espresso sparkle in the everlasting finish. 35 years in the casks for a moment of bliss! RATING: 4.9/5.0 stars ≙ 94 pts → PERFECT [-]

Opened in 1969 and formerly known as Sendai distillery, Miyagikyo produces the bulk of Nikka's malt and grain whisky. The nose of this NAS expression is fruity, floral and not overtly young, emphasizing banana, mango and a touch of coconut. Beeswax, raisins and lemon hide in the back. On the palate, rich, sweet and surprisingly spicy flavors predominate, ranging from ginger, cinnamon and apples to mocha, licorice and restrained oak. Peppery, zesty and slightly herbaceous, the medium finish subsides with a hint of peat. A very pleasant summer dram. RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 84 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

Nikka's new transparency rebutted the rumor that Taketsuru Pure Malt contains Ben Nevis, so this is authentic Japanese whisky. Green apples, gooseberries and honeydew melon are first to greet the nose before lemongrass, chamomile and subtle peatiness emerge. The palate showcases the flavor profiles of Miyagikyo and Yoichi, moving from a fruity-floral arrival towards a modestly peaty and gingery-dry development. Lingering oak, green tea and whiffs of smoke remain in the medium finish. I daresay that it is even better than its predecessor. Kanpai! RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 84 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

Older peated whiskies are not necessarily better than their raw and spirit-driven counterparts - they are different. That said, there is a lot to discover in this 18-year-old Ledaig. On the nose, sooty and slightly sour peat smoke hovers over dry sherry notes, including red currants, leather and walnuts. Initially sweet and oily, the taste explodes with a punch of spices and peat, drifting towards rubber, grapefruit zest and burned coffee. Chili, licorice and lots of tannins dominate the long and pungent finish. An expressive character, but I do prefer its younger sibling. RATING: 3.9/5.0 stars ≙ 86 pts → FIRST-CLASS [-]

Renowned whisky writer Michael Jackson held Cragganmore in high regard, while it is mostly overlooked by malt aficionados. Fresh, citric and quite assertive, the aroma features a wide range of flavors. Lime, melon and lychee give way to heather honey, thyme and lavender. Tastewise, crisp and sour notes turn slightly bitter and herbal as the palate progresses, followed by ginger, white pepper and a touch of banana. Grapefruit, green tea and walnuts fade in the short finish. It's not my favorite classic malt, but it has something to offer if given the chance. RATING: 3.4/5.0 stars ≙ 82 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE [-]