Tastes

Once upon a time, there was a distillery on Orkney you could rely on. Then the Vikings invaded, and things went south. For nostalgia's sake, let's review the old HP12. Fragrant and well-balanced, the nose features orange peel, nutmeg and toffee, complemented by cranberries, parsley and delicate bonfire smoke. Sweet and malty in the arrival, the palate turns dry, peppery and mildly phenolic shortly after. Tangerines, bitter honey and hints of espresso round off the medium-length finish. Where are the good old times? Sigh. If it ain't broken, don't fix it! RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 84 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

Most of today's NAS whiskies I wouldn't touch with a barge pole, but this old classic belongs to the few notable exceptions. The nose of Ardbeg Uigeadail takes you straight to the windswept shores of Islay, featuring seashells, brine and iodine. Peat smoke, tobacco and sweet bacon emerge, followed by band-aid, black olives and aniseed. Warming and spicy at first, the taste is intensely phenolic and earthy with notes of walnuts, honey and bitter oak. Ashy peatiness, burned toast and salty licorice mark the long finish. Wee beastie beware, papa is coming! RATING: 4.2/5.0 stars ≙ 89 pts → FIRST-CLASS [+]

What is North of Scotland? The Faeroe Islands? Svalbard? Well, in this case we are talking about a long-closed Lowland grain distillery. Distilled in 1970 and bottled after four decades, scents of strawberry yogurt, pine needles and nougat mesmerize the nose. Custard, dried herbs and wood polish appear. After a sweet and aromatic arrival, the palate develops with candy floss, menthol and coconut. Complex spices, black tea and re-emerging strawberries culminate in a strong and lasting finish. A majestic and delightful grain, the taste of a bygone time. RATING: 4.4/5.0 stars ≙ 90 pts → SUPERB [-]

I met Mathew Thomson in 2019 and was intrigued by his innovative mindset and dedication to create an authentic New Zealand whisky. Manuka wood smoke is both singular and hard to describe, but it works. On the nose, heather honey, bay leaf and incense sticks mix with lime, rubber and distant campfire notes. Herbal-fresh and effervescent, the taste develops with menthol, grapefruit and well-integrated smoke. Licorice, peppermint tea and a touch of quality oak linger in the savory finish. This malt does not imitate Scotch, and that's refreshing to see! RATING: 3.7/5.0 stars ≙ 85 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE [+]

What do Sullivans Cove and Japanese whisky have in common? Well, both are shockingly expensive and highly sought-after. The nose of this 'Double Cask' opens up with tinned pears, lychee and wood spices, supplemented by orange peel, sourdough and hints of tobacco. Stewed fruits, honey and a touch of brandy sparkle in the arrival before a crescendo of French oak drives the taste into a ditch. Resinous, dry and chocolaty, the finish recovers with juniper, mint and fruit tea. There is quality in this dram for sure, but I cannot pinpoint a Tasmanian identity. RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 84 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

Family-owned distillery, direct-fired stills and this unmistakable sherry-infused style - what's not to like about Glenfarclas? Light, sweet and fruity, the aroma kicks off with oranges, apricots and unripe banana, followed by shortbread, allspice and vegetal notes. The arrival is zesty, sparkling and reminiscent of Fanta. Water tames the initial roughness of the spirit, revealing dried fruits, pineapple and menthol. Dark chocolate, peppery spices and gummy bears fade in the medium finish. It's still a bargain for a 12-year-old, although not as robust as it used to be. RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 83 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

I have fallen for grain whisky, and the 20th anniversary of Compass Box Hedonism was a good excuse to get myself a bottle. As soon as you put your nose to it, rich notes of custard, crème brûlée and coconut unfold. Baked banana, ginger and hints of sage lurk in the second row. Like a liquid dessert, the palate pleases the senses with creamy vanilla, white chocolate and a touch of piña colada. Dry oak spices, fennel and peppermint introduce the surprisingly long finish. Although not very complex, I cannot deny the fact that this truly is a hedonistic dram! RATING: 3.9/5.0 stars ≙ 86 pts → FIRST-CLASS [-]

Our little Shiba Inu Akito (秋登) moved in last week, so Douglas Laing's Scallywag was the obvious choice to mark the occasion. Hailing from Speyside, the aroma accentuates orange blossom, pears and vanilla cream. Christmas spices, brown sugar and peach emerge. On the palate, boiled fruits, nutmeg and dark chocolate are interwoven with lemon zest, eucalyptus drops and roasted coffee. Cereal notes, fruit cake and spearmint migrate into the lasting and slightly astringent finish. This dram is like a well-behaved puppy with a charming tail wiggle! RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 83 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

'Dare to be different' is what they aim for at Teeling, and in that they have succeeded. Using casks from Cooley distillery, they give their single malt a craft presentation which is unusual for Irish whiskey. On the nose, grainy and floral notes combine with lemon oil, honeydew melon and a touch of ginger. The palate features green apples, shortbread and aniseed, followed by white pepper, sour citrus fruits and herbaceous bitterness. Hints of vanilla, oak spices and lingering freshness remain in the medium finish. A malt with character despite its young age. RATING: 3.4/5.0 stars ≙ 82 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE [-]

Japanese whiskies are nowadays either fake or ridiculously expensive, and even NAS expressions like the Yamazaki Distiller's Reserve are hard to find. Fruity, rich and not overtly young, the nose offers papaya, exotic spices and lemon cream, enriched by sandalwood, peach and a floral scent. The arrival has a bit of a nip, but the taste quickly improves with notes of strawberries, grapefruit and menthol. Peppery spices, tannins and evolving dryness from the Bordeaux casks drive the intense finish. It's a very decent dram, although light years behind the 12-year-old. RATING: 3.7/5.0 stars ≙ 85 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE [+]