BigJimFolsom
Reviewed
January 19, 2020 (edited January 29, 2020)
BACKGROUND: Small Batch Select is the first new addition to the permanent Four Roses line in more than a dozen years and likely the most significant release yet during the Brent Elliott era as master distiller.
Four Roses Small Batch Select is made from blending six of the ten distinct bourbon recipes that the distillery currently utilizes to produce its bourbon, and though no age statement is included on the bottle, each of the blended bourbons are believed to be between six and seven years old.
The inclusion of the Select brand in the permanent line is intended to represent the fourth of the Four Roses as it joins the traditional yellow label, single barrel, and small batch offerings already on the shelf.
Whisky Advocate magazine gave Four Roses Small Batch Select a tasting score of 93 and ranked it third in its list of “Top 20 Whiskies of 2019.”
NOSE: The nose is quite floral - almost like smelling a bouquet of flowers - and perhaps slightly grassy. Oak is the other dominant scent in the nose. Many reviewers of the bourbon claim that a strong chocolate or cocoa note is present in the nose, but it is totally lacking in the bottle I acquired.
PALATE: There is a strong cherry sweetness on the front of the palate that is reminiscent of children’s cough syrup. A distinct mintiness and a substantial amount of pepper spice develop as the bourbon moves to the back of the palate.
FINISH: During the medium finish, the chocolate taste that many reviewers note finally makes itself known. Combined with the mint note, it reminds one of a York peppermint patty. Both sweetness and pepper continue to take centerstage.
FINAL ASSESSMENT: I tried the Small Batch Select once previously and disliked it intensely. The floral note on the nose seemed to dominate both the palate and the finish and gave the sensation of drinking bourbon that had been aged with flowers floating in the barrel. When I tasted it for this review, however, the bourbon was much more enjoyable.
Some may claim that my previous unpleasant experience was the result of a bad “neckpour,” but I have always found the theory that a bourbon should not be judged by the first drink from a bottle to be bogus. The advocates of the “neckpour” theory claim a bourbon must be allowed to “open up” before being judged. I counter that it is all the same juice from top to bottom, and an inch or two of air in the bottle between the first and second tastings is not going to dramatically change the flavor.
I asked noted spirits writer and bourbon competition judge Fred Minnick for his thoughts on the “neckpour” theory on Facebook, and his reply seemed to agree with my assessment that it is myth, not fact. According to Minnick, the taste of the bourbon likely remains constant, but it is our own sense of taste that changes and adapts from one day to the next. It is the same reason why we enjoy some foods more at certain times than others.
While I disagree with Whisky Advocate about Small Batch Select ranking among the top three products of 2019, my second experience was much better than my initial tasting. I no longer regret spending $55 on this bottle.