DrRHCMadden
Reviewed
December 24, 2023 (edited December 26, 2023)
Ok. Core expression and ‘elements’ series out of the way. I now have what I was most excited about, the Apex series. I have two of them in front of me. I am excited as I feel these are the two (whether good or bad) with the best shot of being reflective of an Israeli character. The Apex series are supposedly, according to Ari in marketing, “an exclusive opportunity to taste limited editions driven by our boldness and aspiration to reach new heights”. That is, these whiskies are the Apex of M&H. Thats not at all setting themselves up to fail…
The pomegranate cask is M&H Single malt whisky aged in ex-Bourbon casks and finished in fortified style pomegranate wine casks for six months. Ooooo 59.5% ABV, this should have some oomph.
N: And a little oomph it has. The almost 60% ABV is apparent right away. Rich and with depth, but not overwhelming. This has an oozy kind of thickness laden with earthy malt, burnt coffee and dark caramel, toffee apple, mint, and a little vanilla with a vague spritz of orange. The longer I sit with this the stickier and ‘redder’ it has become; still, I am not convinced it smells of pomegranates.
P: Heavy and forceful. Thick with honey and raisin a pomegranate syrup presence permeates. Oaky spice is warming, and leans towards cinnamon chilli, with the wood somewhat restrained and toasty. Vanilla toffee, and fading notes of mocha.
F: Long. Drying oak, sticky sweet and spicy chilli heat with a fruity presence that is the pomegranate at work. The faintest notion of salt.
A few drops of water and a few minutes to calm later… the nose becomes a little brighter, a little fruiter, and with more nose prickle. Amongst that though there is a musty red grape and woody herbal presence like thyme and lavender. Really quite lovely. The palate enters savoury territory, again backed by a herbal bouquet that lends well to an earthy presence. Pomegranate is on the ride side of sweet. The palate does dry a little further and becomes slightly astringent but only shortens the finish without developing anything new.
This is well made. The higher proof offers length and depths to work with and what I though would be sticky and cloying has actually been pretty well managed. Some of the musty, honey, and orange-blossom is here and represents the core spirit well. The cask is additive and pretty well executed. It may be a little too tannic and that, I fear will always be an issue in the Israeli climate. I am torn though, is this better than the classic? It’s more adventurous, it would have been more challenging to do correctly. I don’t think I enjoyed it more, but I think it does offer a little more to discover, so it just about edges the top spot with one contender left to go…
Distiller whisky taste #246
[Desert only theme has fallen away it seems. So, pictured here with a rock for the pomegranate cask. The mineral name garnet is derived from the 14th‑century Middle English word gernet, meaning 'dark red' and is further derived from the Latin granatus, from granum ('grain, seed'). Granatus is likely a reference to mela granatum or even pomum granatum (pomegranate).⠀This garnet schist/gneiss is from Southern Norway. I used it for taste #140; HP16 Eagle, but it is the most pomegranate-like rock I have, so its coming out again]
M&H Running scores
Classic: 3.5/5
Sherry: 3/5
Red Wine: 3.25/5
Peated: 3.25/5
Apex Pomegranate: 3.75/5
199.0
AUD
per
Bottle