NIKKA COFFEY-STILL SHOWDOWN
Nikka Coffey Malt Whisky
Nikka Coffey Grain Whisky
Continuing to work through the bottles in my collection that I’ve not yet reviewed. To begin, “Coffey” is not a typo; it doesn’t refer to the bean or drink, but rather to a type of still that is used, which originated in early 19th-century Scotland and was brought to Japan in the early 20th century. I currently have four Nikka whiskies: these two, plus the Taketsuru Pure Malt and the Nikka Whisky From The Barrel (which I need to review again, as the last time was over a year ago and only rated 4.25; I’ve had it since and thought it was even better). I’ve had the Coffey Malt and Coffey Grain for some time, and recall that I didn’t care for the former but very much liked the latter.
Nikka Coffee Malt
Color is a clear and bright gold, akin to Pantone 116 (I have no affiliation with Pantone, but am using it in an attempt to achieve a little more visual precision). It’s been a long time since I’ve had this, but I recalled it reminding me of a Halls Honey Lemon cough drop. The nose is initially reluctant, but does have a lemony-honey-eucalyptus aspect; this sounds odd, but it’s not as bad as it sounds. On the palate, there’s a honey sweetness and a light, round glycerin mouthfeel. There’s a lingering coolness on the finish, some chile spice, and a touch of bitterness on the finish (could be some woody tannins, though I’m unaware of the barrels used, other than being relatively certain that this is not Mizanura oak, which would likely be displayed prominently on the bottle).
This is a unique whisky, unlike anything I’ve ever experienced, and is perhaps worth seeking out for the exploratory connoisseur. I’d imagine that it’s polarizing as well. Nikka states that this expression was released in 2013 to “offer more excitements [sic] to afficionados.” Additionally, some distillate from Ben Nevis is used, and thus doesn’t qualify as Japanese Whisky. I recall paying about $60 a few years back, and a quick Internet search shows that either can be had for about $70 today. The 45% ABV is appreciated, and the flavors are robust enough to support it; a higher proof also displays more attention to quality than economics (i.e., water dilution and more yield). The quality is there, as is a robust flavor profile; but the flavors themselves are unusual. That being said, I do like it much more than the last time I had it, and I’d keep a bottle onhand as a diversion. 3.75 on the Distiller scale.
Nikka Coffee Grain Whisky
Color is a robust Pantone 123, with just a bit of an orange tint vs the more gold Coffee Malt. The nose is nothing like the Coffee Malt: the nose is sweet, with bourbon-like elements of caramelized sugar, a little vanilla, cornbread, and some mint. Nosed blind, I would’ve guessed bourbon. The palate hits you like the Pillsbury Dough Boy: soft, round, heavy, and not going anywhere. Viscous mouthfeel, with Honey, Cheerios, and orange, finishing with the same chile (not pepper) spiciness, and again a hit of vanilla. Nice finish.
I LOVE this whisky. Unsurprisingly, due to its bourbonesque characteristics, Nikka states that it is “predominantly made from corn.” Like the Coffey Malt, also 45% ABV, which is both noticeable and well integrated. According to the company, the Coffey Grain does meet all the criteria for “Japanese Whisky” (I was unaware that the corn-primary mashbill would allow for that). Rich, sweet, and bold, Nikka Coffey Grain fires on all cylinders and offers another unique drinking experience, given the origin. I would always have this onhand (I’ve had a backup for some time now). An easy 4.25 stars on the Distiller scale.
N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.