BLENDED SCOTCH WHISKY SHOWDOWN
Dewar’s White Label
Pig’s Nose
Johnnie Walker Green Label
Continuing to work through whiskies in my collection that I’ve yet to review. While this trio may appear incongruous—the Dewar’s and Pig’s Nose are bottom-shelf, while the Johnnie Walker 15 is top-shelf—they are the only blended scotch whiskies that I own. Further, the Dewar’s and Pig’s Nose are technically Blended Scotch Whisky, which means that they are comprised of both malt and grain whiskies. The Green Label is a Blended Malt Whisky, which contains only single-malt whiskies.
I’ve not had any of these in quite some time (i.e., years). Based on what I recall, I believe the scores will be ranked in ascending order as I sample them alphabetically. Let’s find out.
Dewar’s White Label
Color is a clear Pantone 129. Very muted nose shows light pear, saline, and hay notes. There’s some surprising viscosity on the palate, which has a sweet honey element, transitioning to gentle white pepper and even a little vanilla on the medium-length finish.
I’ve never purchased Dewar’s White Label. I recall that this bottle came as an already-opened party “gift” some years ago and has remained at its current 20% level since then. After tasting it, however, I must say that I’m surprised: there are no intrinsic flaws per se. Rather, the positive attributes that it does have are lightweight, which is merely less positive rather than overtly negative. I did not pour my falsely prejudiced swill down the drain, dear reader; my first of three Glencairn glasses now sits on my desk, empty.
Still, Dewar’s White Label should not be considered an “introductory” whisky for the neophyte (Oban 14, while more expensive, is wonderful for both the newbie and connoisseur). This is a whisky intended to be cheap scotch for restaurants and parties, and for that I may one day be thankful if I find myself in a situation with no other alternative. The economics are obvious: 40% ABV is the bare minimum for a whisky designation, and ostensibly the unknown blending elements are secured on the cheap by Bacardi, it’s owner, and watered down as well.
Dewar’s White Label is readily available for about $25. Would I buy it (for the first time)? No. But that doesn’t mean that I’d turn my nose up at it at my son’s frat party during Parent’s Weekend. In fact, I’d enjoy it. 3.0 on the Distiller scale.
40% ABV. NAS.
Pig’s Nose
Color is a touch darker than the Dewar’s; Pantone 142. Sweet honey nose, with added apples, hay, salt, and the tiniest bit of peat. Mouthfeel is slightly less viscous than the Dewar’s, but is not devoid of it. The palate exhibits more honeyed sweetness. Very little spiciness, and a short finish.
Still, Pig’s Nose comes across as more robust than the Dewar’s: think simple, but at a higher volume.
Whence the name? From the box: “’Tis said that our scotch is as soft and as smooth as a pig’s nose.” To continue the alliteration: not only soft and smooth, but also a quite unporcine sweet (which is not a bad thing). Perhaps the marketing department couldn’t conjure a complementary concise commentary. Pig’s Nose is widely available for about $30. Would I buy it again? No, for the same rationale behind my assessment of the Dewar’s. No lipstick on this pig, but the pork still tastes pretty good. 3.0 on the Distiller scale.
40% ABV. 5-Year age statement.
Johnnie Walker Green Label
Color is deeper than the Pig’s Nose; Pantone 130. Nose, palate, finish: everything about the Green Label is superior to the previous two entrants. Nose emits honey, salt, stewed-apple oatmeal, cured deli ham, a floral gardenia, and the slightest whiff of smoke. Lightly viscous palate explodes with the same flavors, with added intensity (“explodes” is not histrionic here). There’s some white-pepper spiciness, and a long finish with the sweet, salt, and smoke of bacon jam.
As a blended malt whisky, Green Label is a blend of Talisker, Linkwood, Cragganmore, and Caol Ila (there may be others). After hearing several online whisky acquaintances sing the praises of Johnnie Walker Green Label, I decided to purchase a bottle (this was a few years ago). It was not an easy task, as I was unable to find one quickly. When I first tasted it some time ago, I was unable to appreciate the enthusiasm. I now rectify that shortcoming.
JW Green Label retails for around $60 today, which is about what I paid for it some time ago. Would I buy it again? Yes. This is a complex whisky with a 15-year age statement (there could be older components), and significant value given these attributes. I’d love to experience it at a higher proof; the aromatics and flavor profile could certainly support it. 4.25 on the Distiller scale.
43% ABV. 15-Year age statement.
Separately: @stephaniemoreno rates this whisky at 95, and I concur—kind of. Green Label is very good. But it’s also problematic that the “Tasting Notes” by Stephanie and others are on some kind of a 0-100 scale, but the actual users have a 0-5 scale in quarter-point increments. This is bad design, plain and simple: I do know a thing or two about UX, and I say this from the perspective of someone who founded (and sold) a consumer-facing software company. The scales should be the same for both expert and user. There are other ways to improve basic functionality as well, and I’ve emailed these to Distiller with little success.
Off my soapbox—for now.
N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.