DrRHCMadden
Reviewed
June 3, 2023 (edited June 5, 2023)
Starward are the biggest distributors and producers of Australian Whisky. They recently got massive spotlight attention for winning eight double golds at the San Fran Spirts Competition and the title of worlds best distillery 2022. They had similar grand success at 2023’s competition. However, I have found the four I have tried to date, just about average, with the exclusive cognac cask breaking up into the middle ground between good and excellent (see running scores below).
I have also complained about all the experimental barrels to play with that they then peddle as special and exclusive. Starward whisky were founded in 2007. Yet, off the top of my head I can think of five core range bottlings and about 20 total releases through their experimental and small batch series. Thats a little stupefying for a distillery less than 20 years old, and it should raise eyebrows. As a relatively local (east coast Australia to my west coast Australia), and relatively well priced range though, I am eager to give them time and an open mind/palate. I want them to capture me, I really do. The last i had, the Cognac, gave Starward needed points in my ledger.
I’ve lined up five more (possibly another few if I can mooch extras). Let’s see what happens.
In a collaboration with iconic Australian winery, Yalumba the Octave Barrels release has been matured in the world’s only red wine aged in 100 litre octave-sized barrels (Yalumba is the only winery in the southern hemisphere to handcraft barrels in their own onsite cooperage). These freshly emptied casks were filled in 2018 and left to mature till 2021 where they were bottles at 48% ABV with the release amount being undisclosed.
N: Warm and wholesome. A dry cigar box and old oak bring an earthiness to honey, flamed orange peel, and over stewed fruit. The vaguest hint of fermented banana also combines with a light toffee to make a soft profile.
P: Prickly and a little cloying, not what the nose suggested. Sticky brown sugar caramel adds richness; lashings of dry red wine and fresh red chilli add interest; and red fruit and apples add some freshness. The chilli is a little powerful and pushes the balance out slightly.
F: Medium-long. Lovely little perfume note, warm vanilla, some oak spice, and minced pie type bite.
OK Starward, we’re getting somewhere! I like this, the only actively harsh part is the chilli heat on the mid palate. The nose, so much of my description sounds musty and acrid, but it was quite beguiling. I haven’t smelt fermented banana since I was in the Ugandan jungle where I was invited to try banana beer. The “beer” was in a hole in the ground, made by throwing banana into muddy water and covering with big banana leaves and leaving in the sun. Disgusting, but like a car crash, couldn’t look away. The nose here; not as revolting, but it held my attention. The finish though, the gentle lift of a perfume was just wonderful. Quite complex and a great start to this Australian foray.
Distiller whisky taste #202
[Pictured here with a shooting star for Starward. This innocuous little lump of what is dominantly iron, with a little nickel, is a fragment of the Canyon Diablo meteorite that formed what is now known as Meteor Crater (or Barringer Crater) in Arizona. The meteorite fell ~50,000 years ago. Initially known and used by pre-historic Native Americans, Canyon Diablo meteorites have been collected and studied by the scientific community since the 19th century. In 1953 lead isotopes in pieces of the meteorite were used to refine the age of the Earth to 4.55 billion years]
Starward running scores:
Fortis: 3.25/5
Whisky Club Exclusive, Maple Cask: 2/5
Whisky Club Exclusive, Cognac Cask: 3.5/5
Projects, Octave Barrels: 3.75/5
Small Batch, Hungarian Oak: 3/5
139.0
USD
per
Bottle