Tastes

Nose: Fragrant and hefty, but not cloying or overly sweet. Vanilla, oak, a touch of honey. Apples, newly cut grass. Preserved citron, lemongrass, barley, toasted almonds, tobacco, leather and earth. A wonderful nose. As it develops in the glass the vanilla note starts to come more to the front, but after about 5 minutes some strong, fresh oak becomes dominant. After 15-20 minutes malt and citrus elbow through to take the leading role. [NOTE: The dry glass aroma is strong honeysuckle]. Palate: Spicy, smooth, creamy and oily - deliciously seductive and ... well, perfect really. In the development there is brine, sweet cereal, lime zest, a touch of vanilla and coconut, and oak. A hint of more assertive ginger spice with mineral notes. Quite bright and lively, even after 22 years, but no trace of burn anywhere - just a lovely, cosy warm glow. The cask choice was perfect. Finish: Medium-short, but very good. Sweet cereal trails off into mustard, arugula, citrus, walnuts and dark chocolate. A furtive taste and aroma floats about after the dram is finished - at first it seems almost metallic, but pleasant. Eventually it becomes identifiable as the faintest possible touch of smoke (but it could be barrel char). I almost always enjoy a Mortlach, and this is one of the better ones I've had. The old "Beast of Dufftown" is an infinitely mercurial chameleon - in some expressions light and fruity, in others as meaty as a trough of giblets - but this one is half-way between. Grassy, oily, woody and meaty but overall leaning towards the softer, fruity side of the distillate's profile. If only all whisky could be this good (but it's not one to give to a novice, unless you're feeling really wicked). I added two drops of water to the last couple of sips because ... science. It made little difference other than dilution. Take this one neat - it's perfect at 46% and water is just a distraction. Take one part Craigellachie, one part Clynelish and one part Springbank, and you're getting somewhere near the profile of this whisky. My original tasting was from a 30ml whisky shop sampler, and after trying it I immediately ordered a bottle. I've no idea whether it is still available anywhere but if it is, you have been alerted ... "Very Good" : 87/100 (4.25 stars)

Japanese whisky tasting evening, Sydney 28 March 18, Whisky #5. Nose: Sweet fragrant cereals, honeyed citrus fruits, vanilla, a light but solid oaky presence. Palate: Super silky and sweet arrival - like liquid velvet flavoured with orchard fruits in natural juices. The development brings a strong, muscular cereal presence which is almost malty and nutty. Creamy and rich overall. A voluptuous rum-like mouth-feel that is almost but not quite too syrupy. Finish: Short. Sweet and easy, with a tiny touch of spice but no intrusive bitterness or sour notes. This is very much an exercise in modulating sweetness and texture, however it's not a thick, heavy sweetness like some rum can exhibit. Others at the tasting commented that it was like a bourbon, but I didn't get that at all. It may be made from corn, but this is much more like whisky than whiskey. It reminded me of Cameron Brig (which I enjoy) but is better, and it also reminded me just a bit of Irish grain whiskey. I'd certainly buy this, and would have done so after the tasting except I was too slow and it was all gone by the time I got to the counter. Water adds little to the experience, and cuts the silkiness of the texture. Take it neat for the full luxury event. The only downside is the price, because like any single or blended grain this is up against Compass Box Hedonism which is equivalent (and arguably better) at a lower price. Still, if you like Hedonism or grain whisky in general I'd definitely recommend this as a change from your usual drams. It's worth the extra expense for the experience. The official review here is right on the money but I wouldn't rate this whisky quite as highly as the official score of 91. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Japanese whisky tasting evening, Sydney 28 March 18, Whisky #4. Nose: Big cereal notes, sweetly fragrant and fruity, some light oak in the background. Palate: Spicy arrival, developing more spice plus considerable cereal sweetness. Chocolate, baked orchard fruits, and a sherry presence. The tiniest hint of smoke, most likely barrel char. Finish: Medium/short. Gingery spices and a light touch of chilli. Fades out sweet. Not much to say, really. Drinkable, but not notable. A vatted malt, so more body than the earlier whiskies in the tasting evening and the first one to be free of the "buzz" of grain whisky. Good in comparison to the lesser grain whiskies, but outclassed by the later malts. Above average overall, but I wouldn't bother to buy it. "Above Average" : 80/100 (3 stars)

Japanese whisky tasting evening, Sydney 28 March 18, Whisky #2 Nose: Sweetly fragrant light citrus, faint melon, soft incense wood, vanilla, very mild oak. Palate: A soft velvety arrival, smooth and creamy with honeyed notes. As it develops a little ginger, vanilla and mild spice emerges. Reminiscent of a freshly-baked and very lightly spiced sponge cake. Good texture. Finish: Short. Cereal and light wood flavours, a touch of spicy bitterness in the end. An agreeable single grain with no particular flaws but in the end it's a bit lacking in character. Almost totally spirit driven apart from the floral fragrant note and spices from the casks. Hard to dislike, but there are better whiskies. Adding a dash of water causes it to become over-spicy and lose the fragrant note, and worse it loses its creamy mouth-feel. This is an issue because the texture of this whisky is at least half its charm, so I'd recommend taking it neat. The official score here seems too generous. "Good" : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Japanese whisky tasting evening, Sydney 28 March 18, Whisky #1 Nose: Cereal and ethanol, lightly fragrant with some faint, delicate fruit notes. There is a touch of honey and vanilla but it has no complexity. Palate: Straightforward, soft arrival focused on cereal notes supported by a little sweetness and very mild spice (ginger? cinnamon?). There is very little development apart from some faint citrus and honey, and the texture is thin. Finish: Short. The mild cereal/fruit character dissipates into a spirity aftertaste with traces of vanilla and mint, but there is no bitterness and no metallic notes. If I tasted this blind I would mistake it for a bottom-shelf blended Irish whiskey or grain-dominated blended scotch. The palate is clean and crisp but of no great interest, the finish is short and unremarkable and you can clearly taste the presence of a lot of grain whisky (but to be fair it is of good quality). It's best used as a mixer in a highball which I believe is the classic way of using it in Japan. This was "whisky zero" of the night - the palate cleanser to set the scenery for the whiskies to follow. In that capacity it worked well but I would not buy a bottle. “Adequate” : 70/100 (2 stars)

* My bottle: from Batch 0814D, 55.7% Nose: Buttery, caramel malt. Oranges and barley sugar. Strong vanilla and some honey. As it opens in the glass pear and stewed apple aromas emerge. There's something of the feel of a country kitchen about this nose, with fresh-baked pies cooling on a well-scrubbed wooden table. Later still apple blossoms and pineapple appear. Adding water makes the cask apparent. Palate: Neat, the arrival is full of flavour but surprisingly not too hot. Quite buttery in texture and with an emphasis on malt. The development brings vanilla and some spicy pepper, with the texture turning dry. Orange oil. With water (and time - see below) the palate opens and broadens but does not change profile. Finish: Neat, the finish is long and primarily cereal/vanilla, turning quite dry with a touch of dark chocolate bitterness as oak spices carry on to the finale. Water softens the finish pleasantly. Always an enjoyable dram, indeed a very fine one, but one I tend to neglect for some reason. It's a cask-strength batch expression and it definitely changes over time. I've had expressions of this in the past that were quite coconut heavy, and others that were woody. The one I'm reviewing is buttery and fruity. The previous time I tasted it (batch 214E, 60.2%) my journal tells me I thought it was more red-fruit, biscuity and spicy. One thing that all expressions of Nadurra 16 share is that they are very easy to drown, so if adding water do so slowly, drop by drop. The profile does not change very much but if you go too far with the water it suddenly loses all its presence. IMHO you do need to tame it slightly, but I would suggest not taking it too far below 50%abv. It also needs time to sit and develop in the glass, and if adding water give it more time to rest and recover before tasting - it may seem thin and lacking in character after dilution but it will develop sweetness and body again after 10 minutes. Patience is well rewarded with this one. My bottle was AUS$135, but now that it has been discontinued the price has rocketed on the secondaries. "Very Good" : 86/100 (4 stars)

Nose: Seaweed, brine and smoke. Palate: Smoky, fruity and sweet. Finish: Short, sweet and fruity. This is not a complex whisky bursting with nuance. It is a very young spirit painted from a limited palette, however what is there is of a high caliber and enjoyable. The profile is simple rather than elegant, but harsh criticism of this whisky misses the point. It's not trying to be Lagavulin 12 year - it is a very young, crisp and basic peated whisky that would be fantastic as a mixer but can still stand up to neat tasting (well, maybe add a good big hunk of ice). Most likely its Caol Ila and around 5 years old, but who knows? What is certain is that the official rating here of 69 is ridiculous. This is a fine, reasonably priced, young workhorse single malt worth at least the same rating as a good mid-shelf blend. It's not the most elegant sipping malt, but for mixing it can't be faulted. "Above Average" : 80/100 (3 stars)