Tastes

Having lived in Portland for a number of years, I had the chance to watch this distillery (House Spirits) grow from a table at our local farmer's market to a large tasting room on the Willamette, and its merger with Diageo. This is a really unique single malt that doesn't always fit my palate, but the quality is steadfast and the profile is distinctly of the PNW, so there will always be a place in both my bar and heart for this. This is the 2019 single barrel from K&L Wines, B-236-11, 65.5% ABV. Impressions @ neck level: The initial aromas betray the Master Distiller's background in craft beer, and it smells strongly of a hoppy, yeast-forward sour ale. This opens up substantially with time; the nose becomes doughy and sweet as aromas of sugar donut and wood polish emerge. On the palate, the yeast and wood dominate, and they're not always in balance as the flavors oscillate sharply between pine sap and beer. The initial profile is fresh but bitter, full of fruit, pinewood, and yeast. It's challenging to parse out, but it seems to present notes of underripe grapefruit, freshly cut pine, hops, brewer's yeast, and malt extract. The finish is long and cooling, and lingers on a slightly bitter herbal note. Overall, there is a resinous and herbal quality to this malt and it reminds me of some of the rum cask expressions that I've tried (namely the 2019 Glen Scotia special release) . If provenance is a thing, this is very much the PNW in a bottle.

Impressions @ 1/3 bottle: Like other young sherried whiskies, the nose is cloyingly sweet. Aromas of golden raisins and dates dominate, but a nice wood spice emerges with time. The palate generally remains balanced as the initial burst of dried fruit is followed with the bitterness of black tea, the woodiness of cinnamon bark, and a very slight earthiness, similar to damp compost. The mouthfeel is on the lighter side and the finish is medium-long. If memory serves me, this improved substantially over the 8-9 months that this was open. I enjoyed this, but Glendronach 12 is similar but better, and also better value, in my opinion.

Impressions @ neck level: The nose carries the wonderful Balblair aroma of ripe peaches in syrup, but overlaid with the white smoke of a newly lit bonfire at the beach. The youth shows itself on the palate with a pleasant zippiness, but the flavors are surprisingly muted. It begins with iodine and smoke before transitioning to a mild tannic note of black tea with lemon, and then a more vegetal eucalyptus-like note . The finish is medium in length, but shorter than the proof would suggest, lingering on the aforementioned herbal and vegetal notes. Thought it's not as close to the 12 year as I had hoped, this is great value at $50, and it compares favorably to Ardbeg 10 and Talisker 10 for me. Laphroaig 10, though, remains my entry-level go-to for this style and price range.

Impressions @ 1/3 remaining: All things considered, this is a charming blended malt. The silly artwork that adorns the sleeve is perhaps a reminder not to take ourselves too seriously. The nose is a bit restrained, presenting aromas of preserved lemon, coastal air, and wood polish. For a peat monster, the palate begins bright and citrusy, adopting a slight mineral-like quality on the finish. At times, the bright citrus notes evoke the flavors of a Sprite soda, and it finishes on the slightest of tannic tea notes. The mouthfeel is pleasantly dry and greatly compliments the taste. For some reason, this didn't always agree with me, and there were times when this didn't feel at all balanced or palatable. Also, at $60, it's not great VFM, and it compared unfavorably to other entry-levels from Islay. However, this seemed to open up nicely, and, more often than not, I really enjoyed this. I would happily re-purchase if I could find a fair price on it (perhaps around $50 or less).

Barrel 4601, barreled on 6/06/07. Impressions, new bottle: This is definitely one of my better bottles of McKenna 10 year. Even from the neck pour, it’s richer and more balanced than my two previous bottles. The nose is outstanding, offering a really inviting bouquet of freshly polished wood, vanilla, salted caramel, and allspice. The aromas are warm, luxurious, and rich. The palate largely mirrors the nose , rotating between dry oak, brown butter, and salted caramel. The finish is a bit short for the proof, but the mouthfeel is fuller and more balanced than previous bottles have been. It finishes on a really pleasant oak note that avoids becoming tannic or astringent. Great value, as usual.

Impressions, shoulder level: Pours from the bottle with intensely fruity aromas that settle to golden apples, white grapes, allspice, and fresh white bread. The palate is a starburst of fruit and wood spice, with mangos, peaches, white grape juice, freshly cut cedar, and pine. At 60+% ABV, the presentation is remarkably balanced, and the heat and intensity build at a confident but deliberate pace (a small amount of water - a few drops max- and a few minutes of rest really brings out the best in this expression). The finish is the star of this expression; it’s outstandingly long and lingers on a very pleasant Manuka honey-like note, with a faint black tea note in the background. This is my first Chapter 7 expression, but they’re quickly becoming my favorite independent bottler.

Impressions @ neck level, frequently revisited throughout all fill levels. This remains a heartbreakingly beautiful whisky. The nose oozes honeycomb, raspberry cheesecake and creme brûlée. The palate matches the nose, adding rich overtones of ripe orchard fruits, vanilla cream, and touches of wood spice. The finish is medium long and remains pleasantly sweet throughout. The mouthfeel is rich, full, and slightly dry. This is the kind of whisky that fills me with regret for not having purchased a backup. This was an afterthought purchase at Costco, and it turned out to be an accidental revelation. While I often feel like my collection is getting out of hand, this is the kind of find that keeps me buying.

Impressions, shoulder-level: Fresh into the glass, the nose resembles a Riesling, a cloying sweetness followed by the funk of decayed roses. Without water, the palate is spicy but not overwhelmingly hot. The flavors largely mirror the nose, though the sweetness is restrained enough to keep the flavors in balance. Sugar glazed confections, elderflower syrup, and green bell peppers all make appearances. The proof provides for a finish that’s long and dry. Finding the correct dilution for this whisky is a challenge, but the sweet spot is full of fruit, wood spice, and sulphuric funk. This was a great find at $37, and a good example of a young, spirit driven whisky.

First impressions, new bottle: A beautiful, dark shade of amber in the glass. Lightly floral and sweet aromas on the nose - lavender, cotton candy, and toasted marshmallow. Light, sweet flavors reappear on the palate - corn syrup, caramel, vanilla. Lighter mouthfeel and medium finish. Straightforward, but well crafted and beyond its years. Similar to, but less dynamic than a Four Roses SB PS.